Shuttle Valve Switch Fault Codes

[Dirty Dora The Discovery]

Hi there,

The 3 amigos are up at the moment, had the fault codes read again yesterday by a snapon diagnostic tool. They were 66 & 134 Shuttle Valve electrical fault. Anyone have any info on the fixes for these codes, at the moment I am thinking of ordering a whole new switch off ebay. I have already tried the circuit bypass repair as per option (B) from this link ABS Mod - LAND ROVER CLUB V.I. (http://www.landroverclubvi.com/abs-mod.html) and the lights have stayed on. When removing the switch, the wires were cracked that go from the switches to the plug that goes into the bottom of the modulator and didn't look like they were in a particularly good state, so i'm hoping a brand new switch will do the trick.

Any advice would be much appreciated.

[OffTrack]

I think 6.6 is a front left wheel sensor fault. 11.4 is a SVS electrical failure, 13.4 is most likely the same but perhaps with a non-current status.

You'll obviously need to address both to clear the amigo's.

The problem with the option b is that only addresses one possible cause of the SVS fault and as you've discovered it's not a magic bullet. It's reasonably likely that you've got leaking seals in the shuttle valves which has resulted in contamination of the SVS switches which also causes the same fault code.

The sensor fault is likely going to mean replacement of the sensor, but it might just be a matter of checking that it's correctly seated in the hub, and that the connectors on the inner guards are clean and correctly mated.

cheers
Paul

[Dirty Dora The Discovery]

Thanks for your quick reply, I'm hoping that its not the shuttle valve seals as there was no brake fluid on the shuttle valve switch. It was generally pretty clean although the wring was in a very poor state. Also the codes didn't read 6.6 on the reader screen it just said 66 Shuttle Valve Switch electrical fault and 134 Shuttle Valve Switch electrical Fault. If it was the wheel speed sensor, wouldn't it have said that with the code? Maybe the codes could be different because its not a Land Rover diagnostic tool, i'm not sure? Its also strange that I had no lights on at all and then possibly 2 different things at the same time? i.e. wheel speed sensor and electrical fault both occuring at the same time.

[OffTrack]

If Autologic is using it's own codes then you'll have to find out from the workshop what the full codes and the correct interpretation are.

cheers
Paul

[Dirty Dora The Discovery]

Cheers Paul,

Regards

Tommy

[OffTrack]

Cheers Paul,

Regards

Tommy

There is one member - djam1 - who is in Karratha but has a Defender unlock. If you asked hime, he might be open to the idea of getting an unlock for the D2 if you offered to cover the cost of the code - around $60-65 at the moment. The nanocom might give a bit better insight into what was going on with the ABS, and members would be better able to assist with codes etc.

The fact that the seals weren't leaking sounds promising, but the damaged harness isn't so good and probably needs to be checked//repaired before you do too much more.

cheers
Paul

[Andrew D]

After doing Option B (which most definitely works for the SVS fault) you somehow provided a dodgy earth, the lights will stay on.

Were the lights on permanently prior to doing Option B? If so you would need to reset and clear all the faults.

You can do this yourself by removing the + battery terminal and putting your foot on the brake pedal (for 10seconds). Re-attach and start the car. If they are still there it could be either the earth of Option B or possibly the wheel sensor.


Regards
Andrew

[Dirty Dora The Discovery]

The lights were permanently on before the SVS fault, a couple of times they went off for a brief period but this was over a space of a few weeks or so. I definitely think I should check my earth when I get home today, I connected it to the same mounting point as per option B but I do recall it was quite dirty and I didn't clean it up before! I also did try to get the codes cleared after the fix but they wouldn't go.

I'll prob order the new switch today anyway if cleaning the earthing points doesn't work as all of the wires were cracked in the switch. If still no luck after that I will contact the Karratha member and see if he can help with the code reading.

One more question, I know my car has the spigot on the transfer case for the CDL. If I wanted to take the car off road before I get the SVS fixed, would I be able to go under the car and lock the diff by turning the spigot with a spanner and if I can does anyone know what size spanner would fit and what way to turn the spigot?

Cheers

Tommy

[antond]

To add to the above checks, I've just recently had SVS fault occurring due to air in brake lines (spongy pedal). Mine is 2001 model and master cylinder is due for replacement. You can feel the pedal continue to sink slowly on full pedal pressure, especially when engine on (booster). Bleeding brakes has helped temporarily.

[Lrdriver]

One more question, I know my car has the spigot on the transfer case for the CDL. If I wanted to take the car off road before I get the SVS fixed, would I be able to go under the car and lock the diff by turning the spigot with a spanner and if I can does anyone know what size spanner would fit and what way to turn the spigot?





yeah of the top of my head it is 11mm&clock wise but some might know if this is correct:confused:

[biggin]

Spanner is 10mm, rotate clockwise 45degrees (looking from the top) to engage cdl.