Puma Pads, discs and clutch

[patclan]

Hi all,

I have been advised by LR at my last service that my 2009 110 front pads and discs need replacing, I never got a price of them at the time as I thought hey I can do that anyway and LR will be expensive, but I thought I better check..

Is it worthwhile getting the LR originals or are there aftermarket discs and pads that are better quality or value?

Are there any special tools required? I can follow a manual so don't expect too much of an issue as long as I have the required tools.

Also while I have the chair, does anyone know if there is an aftermarket heavy duty clutch available? My clutch springs are gone again and I am out of warranty, I do not want to pay LR for the same old crappy clutch if there is a better one out there.

thanks
Pat

[n plus one]

Hi all,

I have been advised by LR at my last service that my 2009 110 front pads and discs need replacing, I never got a price of them at the time as I thought hey I can do that anyway and LR will be expensive, but I thought I better check..

Is it worthwhile getting the LR originals or are there aftermarket discs and pads that are better quality or value?

Are there any special tools required? I can follow a manual so don't expect too much of an issue as long as I have the required tools.

Also while I have the chair, does anyone know if there is an aftermarket heavy duty clutch available? My clutch springs are gone again and I am out of warranty, I do not want to pay LR for the same old crappy clutch if there is a better one out there.

thanks
Pat

Can't help with clutch or brake install, but I had all my discs and pads replaced on my 09 Puma recently and it really wasn't very expensive - cant recall how much as I had a bunch of stuff done at once but I didn't hurt like I thought it would.

All done with good quality non genuine parts and I've had no dramas since.

[Rick Fischer]

Brakes and Pads are a notorious Euro problem. One of the EC rules is that pedal feel after a booster failure must not be greater than if the system was not ever boosted, ie an unboosted system. To achieve this the pads and discs need to be very soft.

My son in law got caught by this on his Freelander, city driving. When he complained NRMA said it was normal for the new (last five or six years) Euro cars and he was lucky it was only a Freelander. A three pointed star is worth a couple of grand a corner.

Go for good local discs and pads. There are quite a few. Stops the black wheels too. :)

Cheers

RF

[Lorryman100]

I have just done the rear pads and discs on mine. I used EBC discs and OEM pads as these come with the fitting kit, new shims,springs, pins and split pins. I couldn't find the 110 pads on the EBC site? On the front the discs are fine but I uprated the pads to EBS green stuff and so far the braking has improved, unfortunately you don't get the fitting kit and the fronts retaining springs were shot. The rear still gets black as OEM pads are just TRW ones repacked in LR boxes and you get a lot of dust. The fronts however are still clean with the EBC pads? I will change the front discs to EBC once the better weather comes in and replace the new EBC pads I have just fitted as well, should have just waited and replaced the pads and discs at the same time and saved myself £45. As for the rear discs I took the opportunity to replace the bearings as well mainly because the hub was off anyway, I will do the same with the front.

Front Pads : EBC 6000 Series Brake Pads ' Both Wheels ' - DP6708 (http://www.brakes4u.co.uk/itemdetail.asp?catid=13135)
Front Discs : EBC 3GD series Brake Discs (Pair) - GD415 (http://www.brakes4u.co.uk/itemdetail.asp?catid=16618)

Rear Discs: EBC 3GD series Brake Discs (Pair) - GD416 (http://www.brakes4u.co.uk/itemdetail.asp?catid=16619)
Rear Pads: OEM

HTH Brian.

[Quigley]

Why are discs needing to be replaced?
I did over 700k on my 83 Rangie discs, many sets of geniune pads, and they were still fine.
Are the discs now soft material? Are the pads now too hard? Are the vehicles running in excessive mud and other abrasive stuff?

[patclan]

Why are discs needing to be replaced?
I did over 700k on my 83 Rangie discs, many sets of geniune pads, and they were still fine.
Are the discs now soft material? Are the pads now too hard? Are the vehicles running in excessive mud and other abrasive stuff?


I am not sure to be honest, I just know what LR told me about mine, that said there is a 2 to 3 mm ridge on the outer edge of the disc so they are worn, but what is acceptable I am not sure.

cheers

[patclan]

I have just done the rear pads and discs on mine. I used EBC discs and OEM pads as these come with the fitting kit, new shims,springs, pins and split pins. I couldn't find the 110 pads on the EBC site? On the front the discs are fine but I uprated the pads to EBS green stuff and so far the braking has improved, unfortunately you don't get the fitting kit and the fronts retaining springs were shot. The rear still gets black as OEM pads are just TRW ones repacked in LR boxes and you get a lot of dust. The fronts however are still clean with the EBC pads? I will change the front discs to EBC once the better weather comes in and replace the new EBC pads I have just fitted as well, should have just waited and replaced the pads and discs at the same time and saved myself £45. As for the rear discs I took the opportunity to replace the bearings as well mainly because the hub was off anyway, I will do the same with the front.

Front Pads : EBC 6000 Series Brake Pads ' Both Wheels ' - DP6708 (http://www.brakes4u.co.uk/itemdetail.asp?catid=13135)
Front Discs : EBC 3GD series Brake Discs (Pair) - GD415 (http://www.brakes4u.co.uk/itemdetail.asp?catid=16618)

Rear Discs: EBC 3GD series Brake Discs (Pair) - GD416 (http://www.brakes4u.co.uk/itemdetail.asp?catid=16619)
Rear Pads: OEM

HTH Brian.


Thanks Brian, will see if I can get them in OZ or get them shipped, do you know if you can buy the fitting kit separate?

Edit: Found the supplier in OZ and emailed my closest shop for a price, asked for the info on the rear pads also, will see what they come back with.

cheers.

[Loubrey]

Pat,

Who's the supplier, if you don't mind? I'd like to see if there's a branch or agent over here in the west.

Cheers,

Lou

[patclan]

Pat,

Who's the supplier, if you don't mind? I'd like to see if there's a branch or agent over here in the west.

Cheers,

Lou

Hey Lou,

They are Rotors & Drums Australia + EBC Brakes, The Big Brakes Company | Home (http://rdabrakes.com.au/)

Pat

[Loubrey]

Cheers Pat!

Two stockists with the same post code as me!

Lou

[Rick Fischer]

Why are discs needing to be replaced?
I did over 700k on my 83 Rangie discs, many sets of geniune pads, and they were still fine.
Are the discs now soft material?


Yes, as are the pads. See above

Cheers

RF

[patclan]

Cheers Pat!

Two stockists with the same post code as me!

Lou

Hey Lou,

Did you get a quote?

I recieved a reply from the Brisbane office, the pads seem reasonable, regarding discs they are talking about RDA ones not EBC, not sure if there will be much of a difference.

They have asked for clarification on the disc sizes, so I will do that soon, but I think these prices seem ok.

cheers
Pat

Front pads $80.00+ gst
Rear pads $80.00+ gst

With your Front & Rear rotors I have available the new RDA slotted designed rotor which are finished in a gunmetal finish which will stock rust on rotor where pad doesn’t touch surface. These rotors have also been heat treated.

Front rotors $120.00+ gst pair
Rear rotors $120+ gst pair
If you could just clarify the diameter of your rotors to make sure we have the correct numbers

Front diameters

Vented
298mm diameter
70mm Height
24mm Org thickness
22mm Min thickness
101.6mm centre hole
5 Stud

Rear diameters

Solid
298mm Diameters
59mm Height
14mm Org thickness
13mm Min thickness
101.6mm centre hole
5 Stud

[BilboBoggles]

Why are discs needing to be replaced?
I did over 700k on my 83 Rangie discs, many sets of geniune pads, and they were still fine.
Are the discs now soft material? Are the pads now too hard? Are the vehicles running in excessive mud and other abrasive stuff?


Your Rangie may have been running the older asbestos based pads, they wore longer. Also I doubt you got that many k's out of the rotors and they were still legal. If you are servicing the Defender your self and you don't care about wear limits on the rotors I'd reckon you would get many 100,000's of ks out of them. Dealers tend to stick to the wear limits and have to report that the discs are worn out. I've got 200,000 on my TD5 and had one set of rotors.

The Rangie also does not have traction control, which in muddy or sandy conditions will flog out pads quite quickly.

The rear pads on the Defender do seem to wear quite quickly on mine, but it depends what I am doing with it. If I'm doing lots of dirt roads, or if I'm relying on the traction control , then the rear pads are gone very quickly. Normal driving and Iv'e got 40,000 easily out of a set.

[Loubrey]

Hi Pat,

No I've not gotten there yet. My car went for its last free (corporate) warranty service on Monday and I'm in the process of collating a list of suppliers for the various bits going forward.

Having said that, after 3 years and 50,000 km my original pads are still 9 mm in the front and 7 mm on the rear as per the service report.

The disc have in my opinion wore quite a bit though, but the dealer recons the wear is normal. They are smooth in the rotational direction but have very noticeable grooving if you pull your finger across the radius. I'd imagine new pads would have a hard time bedding in on those.

If I can get another 20,000 km odd out of the current set (unless they start wearing fast on the last bit!) I might just end up changing the whole lot like you...

Cheers,

Lou

[Lorryman100]

My front discs had grooving on them as well! The EBC green stuff pads have a bedding in coating that grinds the discs which gets rid of the grooves and now that they are bedded in, the discs are smooth on the nail test.

EBC 6000 Series Brake Pads ' Both Wheels ' - DP6708 (http://www.brakes4u.co.uk/itemdetail.asp?catid=13135)

[patclan]

Finally ordered front pads and discs from RDA, I have the 6000 greenstuff ones coming, prices have gone up since I last got a quote but not by much.

The front pads are $85 +gst, which I am happy with, I phoned an EBC supplier on the gold coast and they wanted $250 +gst for the front for the same pads.

The front discs have gone up $10 a pair to $130 +gst.

Now I just need to figure out if it is a DIY job or not..

[newhue]

yes Pat give it a crack. It's a great way to get to know the working of the car for when your out and about.

You'll need some drive flange gaskets, lock tight or similar, a hub nut spanner, perhaps some new hub nuts, and new outer oil seals (optional).
The puma run just one nut with some stupid torque to keep it all in place. So I purchased a hub nut tool from Paddocks, $6. Drilled out the breaker bar holes to accommodate my tyre lever, then placed a 1m piece of pipe over the lever for leverage. You will also need someone else to hold the tool on the nut. Cant be done the way described with one person.
Of course a rattle gun with the correct BIG socket will work. It will also make taking the rotors off the hubs easier as well.

[patclan]

yes Pat give it a crack. It's a great way to get to know the working of the car for when your out and about.

You'll need some drive flange gaskets, lock tight or similar, a hub nut spanner, perhaps some new hub nuts, and new outer oil seals (optional).
The puma run just one nut with some stupid torque to keep it all in place. So I purchased a hub nut tool from Paddocks, $6. Drilled out the breaker bar holes to accommodate my tyre lever, then placed a 1m piece of pipe over the lever for leverage. You will also need someone else to hold the tool on the nut. Cant be done the way described with one person.
Of course a rattle gun with the correct BIG socket will work. It will also make taking the rotors off the hubs easier as well.


Thanks Jason,

Do you think there is anything else that could be serviced/upgraded while I have the hub in bits? I am on 114k at the moment so not huge mileage.

I have a rattle gun so will need to find a socket :)

Cheers
Pat

[newhue]

Id just look over the wheel bearing and races. Otherwise "upgraded" can be a long and costly adventure. The idea of running the hubs in oil is not a bad one though.
That would require some new drive flanges and different outer seals.

[Tomo]

Land Rover Defender TD5 Wheel Bearing Conversion Kit with Bearings/ Seal | eBay (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Land-Rover-Defender-TD5-Wheel-Bearing-Conversion-Kit-with-Bearings-Seal-/221008822839)

without bearings
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Land-Rover-Defender-TD4-Puma-TDCi-Wheel-Bearing-Conversion-Kit-Genuine-Seal-/320894036158?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item4ab6c668be

Converting back to the old style 2 locknut system is what I have done (at least on one wheel, haven't got around to doing the other 3 ) The old system you can adjust for wear within the bearing. I had an issue where I had some play within the wheel bearing. the new single locknut system has all these shims to adjust for wear, not very practical, so I reverted back to the old style.

Turns out the dealer after replacing a blown hub seal did not torque up the single locknut up enough and it came loose:eek: