Removing seal between CV & hub on 99 Defer..

[Sitec]

Ok, I'm in the middle of upgrading the stock marzipan axle shafts on my 99 Defender 130 to HTE shafts and Ashcroft CV's.. Having taken the easy route first and done the back axle, I removed the inner seals so the oil gets to the wheel bearings (as per older vehicles I believe). Now, I'm doing the front, and changing the swivel seals as I go as one is weeping. (I'm glad I did as the oil was not looking good!). Anyway, having got over the initial frustrations of finding stretched axle flange bolts (one broken), and brake pipes held to the kingpin bolts so you can't just undo the calliper and swing it out of the way, I find there is a seal between the CV and the axle flange mounted in the stub axle behind that little needle roller bearing that I'll no doubt right off when extracting!! My question is... Can I remove the lip of that seal, so as to allow oil to migrate up the shaft and lube the front wheel bearings, in the same way as the back? Bear in mind I'll have the sealed HTE end caps and am upgrading the hub seal to the earlier (better I'm told) oil seal instead of the grease seal currently fitted. Thoughts please! Off back to man land for me to continue the dismantle!! :(

[roverrescue]

-Pull/skim with a blade that seal is the way to run your wheel bearings in the oil of the CV knuckle.
-Choose whether or not you want oil to lubricate the entire front axle assembly or have three compartments. There is another axle seal which you get to once you pull the outer knuckle off (swivel hub). I run a full axle oil bath and have never had problems with contamination even with plenty of vigorous wet season driving. Others prefer to be able to check/ change the swivels seperate to the diff.
-notch that stinking brake line bracket so you can loosen the union nut and move the caliper!

Steve

[Ancient Mariner]

With new CV joints I would replace the needle rollers as a matter of course.
Not very dear. Those brake pipe brackets really ****ed me off:mad: I folded up some new ones out of stainless and cut a slot for the pipe to lift out off :D

AM

[Sitec]

Thanks both.. Thin disk has been introduced to that bracket! As for the roller bearings, yup, I bought new so covered there. Like the idea of one oil bath through out!!! Cutting the seal lips out and filling from the high swivel plugs untill it flows out of the diff might be the go!! Originally bought 'One Shot Grease' but then thought about the oil idea!! The grease can go in SWIMBO's so not waisted! Now have to find some shaft to CV snap rings... As the small ones in my original shafts are way too small!!! Grrrrr!!! Always something!!!!! Thanks guys!!

[roverrescue]

Sitec,
I also prefer a single swimming pool of oil for the front axle.
Just need to pull the two swivel ball and diff drain plugs at change over time.
And as you say, fill from the high swivel point and you can then slight over fill the axle to ensure good bearing lubrication.
One other aspect for you to consider which use to be suggested by Mal from maxidrive when converting bearings to oil lube is to drill a small (3-5mm) hole BETWEEN the two bearing races on the underside of the stub axle. This lets oil drain out of the stub axle right between the races meaning that the inner bearings gets lube without it having to work through the outer bearing first.

S