stainless steel top radiator hose td5

[frostyblue]

Saw one advertised here in brissy and never heard of anyone using one, having to carry only some short pieces to connect i thought they would be a good idea, am i missing something , is there some inherrant problem im not seeing

Cheers

Ken

[d2dave]

No good for you ken, you can't get you bonnet open:wasntme:

[twr7cx]

I went to http://www.google.com

I typed 'td5 stainless steel radiator hose' in and hit enter

The first result is:
LANDROVER TD5 TOP RADIATOR HOSE CUSTOM MADE STAINLESS STEEL | eBay (http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/LANDROVER-TD5-TOP-RADIATOR-HOSE-CUSTOM-MADE-STAINLESS-STEEL-/380586104310#ht_540wt_1073)

And it's in Brisbane.

[OffTrack]

Call me a cynic but looks like a solution to a problem that doesn't exist. And you add an extra 4 hose clamps//leak points to the system to boot.

The only potential rub point on the standard hosing is where the ACE hoses cross beside the radiator, which isn't helped in any way by this as it only replaces the upper part of the hose.

You'll also need to find /fabricate four hoses of different sizes.

So I'm wondering what the point is apart from separating people from their money for a shiny trinket.

Cheers
Paul

[OffTrack]

A couple additional thoughts.

The radiator and engine are mounted to the chassis//body independently and there is differing level of vibration and movement. On the standard hose this is absorbed over the entire length of the hose. With the solid hose whole assembly is far more rigid so the flex and vibration is concentrated into the short hoses. You'll potentially get the short hoses failing because of this. I'd be very cautious and make sure you have a coolant alarm fitted if you decide to go this route.

Cheers
Paul

[frostyblue]

Lol Dave that made me laugh, thanks for the input, was more curious than anything, Paul you have made a couple of valid points that i didnt think of, as i said curious more than anythink

Cheers

[Slunnie]

It's probably about getting rid of the brittle bleed nut.

[twr7cx]

It's probably about getting rid of the brittle bleed nut.

Is it the thread of the hose or that of the screw that usually gives?

Brass vesions are available of the bleed screw - Top Hose Brass Bleed Screw Land Rover Defender & Discovery 2 TD5 | eBay (http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Top-Hose-Brass-Bleed-Screw-Land-Rover-Defender-Discovery-2-TD5-/271029519325?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3f1a9e43dd&_uhb=1)

[Judo]

A couple additional thoughts.

The radiator and engine are mounted to the chassis//body independently and there is differing level of vibration and movement. On the standard hose this is absorbed over the entire length of the hose. With the solid hose whole assembly is far more rigid so the flex and vibration is concentrated into the short hoses. You'll potentially get the short hoses failing because of this. I'd be very cautious and make sure you have a coolant alarm fitted if you decide to go this route.

Cheers
Paul
My exact thoughts. There is a reason that all pipe work between chassis mounted components and body mounted components are flexible. TD5 might not be the most agricultrual engine ever seen, but the amount of movement is still more than enough to stress solid pipes. Engine mounts have rubber in them. Body mounts have rubber. Oil lines have rubber sections. I would buy a new rubber hose for 1/3 of the price and keep it well maintained... (check for rub stops etc).

My 2c.

[Slunnie]

Is it the thread of the hose or that of the screw that usually gives?

Brass vesions are available of the bleed screw - Top Hose Brass Bleed Screw Land Rover Defender & Discovery 2 TD5 | eBay (http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Top-Hose-Brass-Bleed-Screw-Land-Rover-Defender-Discovery-2-TD5-/271029519325?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3f1a9e43dd&_uhb=1)

It's the screw, and I'd suspect that a brass screw would be a better option. Actually brass isn't particularly strong either, something like stainless would be better.

[OffTrack]

It's the screw, and I'd suspect that a brass screw would be a better option. Actually brass isn't particularly strong either, something like stainless would be better.

I thought the issue was the threaded insert coming loose in the top hose rather than the screw itself.

I'd guess at least part of the problem is over tightening of the bleed screw causing the insert to tear free of the hose. It only really needs to be done up finger tight to prevent leakage, but the slot encourages tightening with a screwdriver. If you have a brass or stainless screw with a slot the temptation to over tighten is going to be even greater.

[schuy1]

Screw slot? Mine has a 12mm hex head:o Imagine the 2turns past tight brigade swinging on it!!! :D

[OffTrack]

This is the stock Td5 bleed screw.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/04/693.jpg

It's clearly designed to be tightened with fingers.

[worane]

Yep, I think for all the above reasons a new spare hose in the kick is the ideal.

[twr7cx]

It's the screw, and I'd suspect that a brass screw would be a better option. Actually brass isn't particularly strong either, something like stainless would be better.

It's only threading into a plastic thread though, so if you put a stainless steel plug in then the hose thread would probably be the weak point.

[twr7cx]

This is the stock Td5 bleed screw.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/04/693.jpg

It's clearly designed to be tightened with fingers.

The knurled outside indicates fingers to tighten, but the flat head screw driver slot in the centre could definitely confuse some...

[mattg]

Use engine saver screw fitting. I heard of another td5 saved again this week. Oil cooler corroded out with this one. Don't even consider a brass one. Just get an engine saver. Fixes all of the concerns with this hose. Maintain it well and keep a spare. Then if it does give way you'll know before its to late

[OffTrack]

The knurled outside indicates fingers to tighten, but the flat head screw driver slot in the centre could definitely confuse some...

That is true. I've noticed it's easy enough to tighten with fingers but harder to remove. A screw driver can come in handy to get them out.

[twr7cx]

Fixes all of the concerns with this hose.

How does it fix all concerns? From what I can see ( Engine Saver Land Rover Page (http://www.enginesaver.com.au/landy1.htm) ) it's a brass fitting that connects to the electronics to warn you when your coolant level is low. I don't see how it fixes anything on the radiator pipe, rather it would warn you when there's an issue - my MadMan EMS achieves the same thing via a different method and I have a brass bleeder screw fitted.

[tony_j_dean]

The concept of the stainless fabrication was to enable you to replace leaking hoses with whatever was available in the **** sticks. From the fabrication to the original endpoint, in each case, was a hose of the same diameter. Apparently 'the octopus' is a bit hard to come by in less populated and refined areas of Australia, where land rovers are not appreciated as superior vehicular transport..:D

[Tombie]

All good and well, but for the price could carry 2 Genuine spares :/

Samco also make a great HD version in Silicone.

[tony_j_dean]

Nice pipe (Samco silicone TD5 Disco).
I did notice they still put the bleed screw in the pipe.
I have been told (where I get my Disco serviced) that the bleed valve in that position is pointless. It all self bleeds to the top tank.

And, yes, I know. I should carry a spare.

[OffTrack]

I have been told (where I get my Disco serviced) that the bleed valve in that position is pointless. It all self bleeds to the top tank.


You've been told wrong. The screw location is at the high point of the system, and I think you'd struggle to full bleed the system without it.