Any way to adjust throttle sensitivity in HI on Puma?

[LoveB]

Righto, I did the looping method on the clutch switch so now I can shift normally...

The only other thing bothering me now is the throttle response/sensitivity at low speeds (or mainly whenever I let off and step on the throttle)

I'm not 100% sure but i remember reading that in high rage you get 70% movement so when you step on the throttle its already at 30%? and at low range you get 100% movement so its a lot smoother.

Problem is driving in the city in HI while at low speeds seems to be proving difficult. The car will kangaroo when I step on the throttle or release it. (which I am guessing is due to the fact that it goes straight to 30% throttle?)

So my question is, is there anyway to adjust the sensitivity so that even at low city speeds the car doesnt get too jerky? its otherwise fine. Rolling out from a stop upto highway speed is great and no clunky gear changes.

But anything 0-30/40kph and it gets quite sensitive at low speeds. I either have to wait till the revs really drop so I can step on it where it will speed up (more than I want it to) or speed up and let off again which only just causes it to kangaroo more. lol.


Btw, how I did the looping method is I looped the wires at the connector and plugged it back in. Should I leave it unplugged or loop it at the wires before the actual connector? I'll try and get a video up tomorrow for a clearer idea. thanks.

[Aaron]

Isnt there a sensor on the transfer case that tells the ECU wether its in HR or LR? It was in a fairly recent post on here. Go back a page or two in the defender section

[LoveB]

yeah thats what I remember. ashtrans posted it.

However in his post he mentioned disconnecting it will let you keep your HI settings while in LOW. I think I want it the other way around! lol

Might have to do some testing tomorrow. Try it in low and see if the throttle response is different.

[LoveB]

Alright here's a quick video.

first part is in low 2nd. Not as bad but still a bit jerky maybe (then again maybe im actually trying to get it to jerk)

then I switch to hi 2nd. you can kind of hear it clunking about when it goes jerky. Sometimes stepping on the accelerator very smoothly works. Other times regardless of how smoothly i step on it it kangaroos. I'm just hoping its adjustable so i can drive smoother through suburban streets.

Defender 2.2 puma - YouTube

I get into hi 2nd at about 25 seconds.


OR maybe, seeing as now the revvy thign is disabled, I just have to keep my foot on the gas longer. and let it off really smoothly (which is a bit hard in city traffic)

[wally]

Righto, I did the looping method on the clutch switch so now I can shift normally...

The only other thing bothering me now is the throttle response/sensitivity at low speeds (or mainly whenever I let off and step on the throttle)

I'm not 100% sure but i remember reading that in high rage you get 70% movement so when you step on the throttle its already at 30%? and at low range you get 100% movement so its a lot smoother.

Problem is driving in the city in HI while at low speeds seems to be proving difficult. The car will kangaroo when I step on the throttle or release it. (which I am guessing is due to the fact that it goes straight to 30% throttle?)

So my question is, is there anyway to adjust the sensitivity so that even at low city speeds the car doesnt get too jerky? its otherwise fine. Rolling out from a stop upto highway speed is great and no clunky gear changes.

But anything 0-30/40kph and it gets quite sensitive at low speeds. I either have to wait till the revs really drop so I can step on it where it will speed up (more than I want it to) or speed up and let off again which only just causes it to kangaroo more. lol.


Btw, how I did the looping method is I looped the wires at the connector and plugged it back in. Should I leave it unplugged or loop it at the wires before the actual connector? I'll try and get a video up tomorrow for a clearer idea. thanks.

Mate, I would definitely go to your dealer and quote that tech bulletin number. That software upgrade made a big difference to mine. It's not perfect but it's better.
I don't quite understand what you've done with those wires at the clutch m/c. Can you post a picture?
I think you're right about the transfer case. If you unplug the wires there it will think it's always in high range.

[Summiitt]

I agree 100% with Wally, go to your dealer ask them if there are any upgrades for the ecu on the drive train as your car is difficult to drive. I called in yesterday to my dealer without any warning, they checked for updates, found 2 and downloaded them on the spot. the ute is much much better to drive, particularly in high range cross country in first and second gear.

[LoveB]

Thanks boys.


Summit, I would guess thats the only dealer in canberra yeah? I just emailed them last night actually. So hopefully they get back to me today then I cna just take the car in to them.


Wally, I'll get a pic up for you in a bit,. Basically I put a wire to loop the clutch swtich which disables the ecm from holding the revs up when you shift..

[LoveB]

Local dealer emailed me back already... monday will be good for them they say. and need about half a day incase its not just a pcm update. fine by me. Will just wait around the dealership probably. dont see the reason to get a hire car for just half a day anyway

[Loubrey]

Local dealer emailed me back already... monday will be good for them they say. and need about half a day incase its not just a pcm update. fine by me. Will just wait around the dealership probably. dont see the reason to get a hire car for just half a day anyway

I would suggest you just undo all that elaborate bypassing and bridging tricks you've been describing in the clutch and throttle posts...

Pretty certain Land Rover will take a very dim view on that...

Cheers,

Lou

[Yorkshire_Jon]

Has anyone ever thought about learning to drive the thing properly and as LR intended?

[wally]

Has anyone ever thought about learning to drive the thing properly and as LR intended?

This is my sixth Defender. None of the others were hard to drive like this one. If I can improve its drivability, I will. It strikes me as pretty weird that anyone would just accept that their new vehicle is difficult to drive smoothly and not attempt to do anything about it.

[460cixy]

Definitely remove the loop in the clutch switch and plug it back in as normal. What's the green light on the dash?

[Lagerfan]

LR have themselves issued a Tech Bulletin about the issue, LTB00448v5 (thanks for finding it Wally BTW!) so the issue isn't completely fictitious:


"The Customer may complain of a hesitation/flat spot when tipping back in on the accelerator pedal during a gear change. The hesitation/flat spot will be more noticeable during fast gear changes with heavy pedal tip in."

... and although the wording suggests you can work around it with your driving style, the fact they acknowledge it would also suggest it has been and issue for many customers.

[LoveB]

Green light means my lights are on...

even without the loop drivability at low speeds and changing gears is the same though. but will obviously remove first.

[460cixy]

A light to tell you the lights are on I thought that would be pretty obvious when the lights are on but what would I know lol

[Loubrey]

Not so obvious if you set off at home in the dark and get to work in daylight...

Luckily Defender headlights revert to "park" when you switch the ignition off!

Cheers!:D

Lou

[460cixy]

In that case I can't see why the light can't come on when the ignition is switched off. It would **** me to tears IDE have to **** it off or put tape over it

[LoveB]

Removed the loop....

Dare I say i think my driving has indeed adjusted to having it on. Clunk here and there but the throttle delay makes driving in the city a bit more bearable. I do still get the hesitation and the flare here and there but the throttle response being delayed has made it a bit better I reckon.

That or it must ake more than just the loop. the loop probably changes the throttle map? I'll see how james drives after the dealership but i suppose for now I'll leave it on. My driving has adjusted to it so while I enjoy being able to shift faster, I cant drive in the city with the throttle responding like that lol

[Tikka7mm08]

So you've gone back to square 1? I'll do some testing...it's raining here after a drought so looking forward to some mud.

[Tikka7mm08]

Photo as promised with plug looped and unplugged.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/

[Tikka7mm08]

Photo as promised with plug looped and unplugged.

http://i761.photobucket.com/albums/xx251/Tikka7mm08/559BDDF6-E93F-444B-90EA-C8E84BE92C65-536-000000DDDBDA49F5_zps1ffbf396.jpg

[LoveB]

Yeah i took it out for now. Did they leave it unplugged? Ill see what the difference is (if any) between plugged and unplugged.

[Tikka7mm08]

Yes it was unplugged / it has to be if it's looped??

[LoveB]

Righto, I tried it looped but left the socket unplugged and it seems to be a bit better. Although I only took it around the block (temp didnt get to normal operating temp but went up 1/4 and I dont know if the map or whatever changes when the engine is warm)

Anyway, with it looped and plugged in, letting off and stepping on the accelerator causes a judder.

With it unplugged, stepping on the accelerator is smoother while letting off it at low speeds makes it judder.

With it unlooped and plugged, it holds the revs up while shifting again but letting off the accelerator has no judder at all. stepping on it causes a bit.

But during all I was letting off quickly (for a worse case scenario I guess? lol)

So all in all its better when its looped and unplugged as it makes city driving smoother. However, I've left it unlooped and plugged back in. I want to see what the difference is when the PCM is updated.

[Tikka7mm08]

Yes I've just put back to 'normal' to see what happens... so far seems fine to drive but haven't got out of 3rd yet!

[LoveB]

righto had my PCM updated, took about 20 minutes. I can now blip the throttle for downshifting. Theres also no lag on the throttle when driving (mostly changing gears) so for now I need to get used to using the throttle when I shift otherwise it gets clunky again. lol Havent tried with the clutch switch looped. might try that tomorrow. Otherwise it does drive better I suppose. I can shift a bit faster now. Just need to get used to the throttle having no lag now.

[Tikka7mm08]

I've taken the loop out and plugged up again.... I think its just a 'style' of driving, seems to be a lot better and figure it can only be because I'm getting more used to it...!

[LoveB]

I know. I've grown used to the revvy thing so dont mind. I like that I can now downshift. I just have to adapt to not stepping on the accelerator right away when shifting as theres no more lag. otherwise I'm fine with it plugged in.

[Disco4_tech]

Has anyone ever thought about learning to drive the thing properly and as LR intended?

Lol +1

Exactly how I feel. Might as well have gone and bought a Amorok. You buy a defender for the clunking and rough ride.

[debruiser]

Did I miss something.... I have a new defender.... it hangs a little (no worse than any other new car i've driven) and as for shudder etc.... I've not noticed it... unless I was too rough, but then that's operator fault.

[LoveB]

2013? I got a sept 2012 one and the PCM wasnt updated so aside from the revvy thing, theres a flat spot on the accelerator. They've updated it so all good now though

[Lagerfan]

Did I miss something....

The problem only impacts VIN range CA423911-DA431347, MY12-13 and is a PCM update documented in Tech Bulletin LTB00448v5 published 05 APR 2013, so is hot off the press.

Probably more likely to impact new Def drivers as it is exaggerated by the fast shifting and heavy acceleration habits of some other vehicles. If you adopt a more John Deere driving style as befits the Defender it is less noticeable :p

[debruiser]

Ahhhh, maybe thats it! Yes my car is a 2013. but I've been driving it like "Farmer Brown" I think everyone in mackay will be getting annoyed at my slow driving
hahahahah

I'll give it some beans today and see what happens ;)

[Lagerfan]

I'll give it some beans today and see what happens ;)

Yeah give it a bit of welly as you fast change through 1-2-3 and you should see it. Just a flat spot lasting a fraction of a second, blink and you'll miss it or else give it more pedal to compensate and you'll over cook it. Easy does it and you'd never notice.

[debruiser]

Ok so I gave it some beans today.... nearly ran over one of those little getz things!! ooopsss. haha.

Anyway, maybe I just drive different but I still didn't see a anything problematic.

[Maxximus]

The problem only impacts VIN range CA423911-DA431347, MY12-13 and is a PCM update documented in Tech Bulletin LTB00448v5 published 05 APR 2013, so is hot off the press.

Probably more likely to impact new Def drivers as it is exaggerated by the fast shifting and heavy acceleration habits of some other vehicles. If you adopt a more John Deere driving style as befits the Defender it is less noticeable :p

have you got a copy of the bulletin so I can show our local dealer, or tell me where I can get one?

[Lagerfan]

have you got a copy of the bulletin so I can show our local dealer, or tell me where I can get one?

Sent you a PM with the details Maxximus.