Help Please - key won't turn in ignition!

[RoundaWhile]

99 D2 manual
OK so I got home this afternoon after getting some new tyres, everything was fine. Jumped back in the car 10 mins later and the key won't turn in the ignition. After about a minute of removing and replacing the key, jiggling the steering wheel the steering lock came on.
It is as though the barrel or key is worn out and no longer works. This happened about a week ago but after trying for about 45 seconds it came good and has not happened again until now.
I have been thru the workshop manual dvd (thanks Roverlord) but it does not mention this situation.
Battery showing 12.6V
Replaced key battery with a new one to rule that out (car will lock unlock from 20M away)
Using keyfob to lock, alarm light flashes constantly for 10 seconds then once every 2 seconds
Using keyfob to unlock, alarm light goes out instantly, but comes back on after about 1 minute.
I have disconected the battery, put my foot on the brake for 30 secs and reconnected the battery - no change.
It is my understanding that the passive coil is only activated with the key in position II, so key code should not be an issue, in fact the electrics don't even come into play until the key is turned, so I am guessing that the key or barrel are worn or simply not working.
PLEASE HELP :(

[Disco Muppet]

Worn key barrel, very common.
Temporary fix is to use some Inox or graphite power on the key barrel should get it going.
Only permanent fix is to replace it, there's a top tutorial on how to fit the ignition barrel from a D1.
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/projects-tutorials/136200-discovery-_2-ignition-replacement.html
DON'T USE A LIQUID LUBRICANT.
Or WD40

[Rick Fischer]

Suggest that the barrel shims - the bits that go up and down with the key pattern and the barrel are worn and knackered. the only thing one should be hanging off of European ignition keys in their locks is the key ring :) :(

Mine past D2 did that years ago, starts a process of locksmiths and barrel/s and on and on. Don't worry about passing "Go" just remove all of the shims, the ball and spring and the steering lock straight up. The vehicle won't start unless the key code is read by the ignition key coil anyway. The only reason you need the actual key is turn the power on and the starter to "Start"........Oh! and for the sensor up under the hood lining to get the message that the key electronics are the correct ones for the ECU.

Cheers

RF

[RoundaWhile]

And of course the windows are down so I can't even get them up till I fix the problem :(

[2 rocks]

I persevered with mine for quite some time until I eventually got to the point where I thought it might never turn again - I went to a locksmith known for fixing these (in Perth anyway) and $80 later the barrel's funcitoning beautifully 2 years down the track.
I know replacement is a very safe option, but if you get a good 'smith it could sort you out for sometime to come...
As DM sadi, in the meantime some dry lube like graphite powder may at least get your windows up and somewhere safe.
Good luck
Cheers
Mike

[RoundaWhile]

I will try the graphite in the morning, after a walk to the hardware.

Just hope it doesn't rain here tonight!

:(

Thanks for all your help :):):)

[Tombie]

Don't use graphite..
Go buy some INOX.

[RoundaWhile]

Don't use graphite..
Go buy some INOX.

I have INOX in a spray can, is that what you mean?

Cheers

[schuy1]

Yes, The inox spray in the can is the go. It is rated for electrical stuff so will not begger the electrics, unlike WD-40 or CRC etc That is what DM meant by not using a liquid , not so much no liquid spray, just not incorrect 1's.

Cheers Scott

[Slunnie]

I find a moderate whack on the rim of the steering wheel or by putting the key into the ignition backwards compared to normal does the trick. I have a spare lock set ready to go in.

[Disco Muppet]

I find a moderate whack on the rim of the steering wheel or by putting the key into the ignition backwards compared to normal does the trick. I have a spare lock set ready to go in.

Sounds like you've been spending too much time playing with Series Land Rovers :D

[Ollie]

When this happened to mine I removed the complete key assembly. Vice grips on the security bolts to undo them. I separated the switch and wiring from the lock assembly. Then pushed the steering lock plunger in on the lock assy and held it in with a Tie Wrap. Refitted the lock assy with the tie wrap using hex head bolts M8 Refitted the sensor ring and wiring to the lock Put the key in the lock, even though it will not turn it allows the sensor to register the key. Used a stubby screw driver to turn the electric switch (removed from the lock assy previously) to aux through to start the engine.
If I can help PM me with you phone number and I will call
Regards Ollie

[RoundaWhile]

All Hail the INOX :):):)

One little squirt and its working fine!

Thank you everybody for your assistance, one of the reasons I love this site.

Cheers
Tony

[El Rey]

I've had the 110 into the dealer last week because I've had two incidents where the key would not turn in the barrel at all.

The first time I sat there for about 30 minutes jiggling, taking key in and out, putting the wheel lock on etc. and then for some reason it just worked.
Went home and put some Inox in it. Noticed there was a lot of play in the barrel too - quite loose.

A month or two later the same thing happened but after 45 minutes of no luck I ended up calling Land Rover Roadside Assist. They just sent out the RACQ! Hahaha!

The dealer here in Brisbane said the replacement has to come from England and will take 2-3 weeks.

At the same time I ordered a replacement key and fob because I lost one of the originals somewhere. Current cost of replacement - $570.00. That hurt.

[Blknight.aus]

when you can, and only if your lock has only been lubed with inox (and this is a one or the other deal you either use graphite in a lock or inox mixing makes an uber sticky grinding paste that will trash your locks)

get a stick of dry lube (its like a wax) and every now and then wipe it across the key then slide the key into the lock 5 or 6 times. With that done wipe the key down with a lint free cloth (or your laundry sponge)

Do the same for your door locks.

for d2 owners...

using a thin piece of tie wire do the same thing on the latches of your rear door lock.

[bob10]

At the same time I ordered a replacement key and fob because I lost one of the originals somewhere. Current cost of replacement - $570.00. That hurt.

I know the horse has bolted, but if it happens again, try this mob. They are in the links section, in the header at the top of the page. I've used them, considerably cheaper than Aus.

Immobiliser Problems Key Fob Repair and Replacement Immobiliser Bypass (http://www.remotekey.eu/)

[roverv8]

All Hail the INOX :):):)

One little squirt and its working fine!

Thank you everybody for your assistance, one of the reasons I love this site.

Cheers
Tony

great it's working atm, but don't take this as FIXED...
order a new ignition barrel ready for replacement...

[Bohica]

great it's working atm, but don't take this as FIXED...
order a new ignition barrel ready for replacement...

Before you get stuck in a car park and have to be towed home. Like happened to some one around here. :(
118080

[mackadog]

I persevered with mine for quite some time until I eventually got to the point where I thought it might never turn again - I went to a locksmith known for fixing these (in Perth anyway) and $80 later the barrel's funcitoning beautifully 2 years down the track.
I know replacement is a very safe option, but if you get a good 'smith it could sort you out for sometime to come...
As DM sadi, in the meantime some dry lube like graphite powder may at least get your windows up and somewhere safe.
Good luck
Cheers
Mike
I know this was a while ago who was the locksmith in perth?

[gavinwibrow]

I know this was a while ago who was the locksmith in perth?

Don't know, but Tristan on here is a very good locksmith, and although it wont help you in M/R, his is a mobile, living in the Freo area.

[Don 130]

A locksmith put me on to PTFE spray for locks. It goes in wet, then dies to powdered teflon. It will get an old lock going again, and doesn't gum it up. The lock may still need a rebuild. Many locksmiths have access to factory settings for vehicle locks and keys and can rebuild them to original factory specs.

PRO EPT Spray Lubricant | Anglomoil (http://www.anglomoil.com/pro-ept-spray-lubricant/)

Don.

[mackadog]

Thanks