Defender 110 gutter flex

[Captain_Rightfoot]

I'm about to pack up and go on another Simpson/ inland Australia trip. :)

One of the few issues we had with our car last time was that the roof racks would occasionally come off... or move and require re-tightening. It would appear that when driving over rough roads the gutter is flexing and allowing the rack to come off. Typically you will see the clamp has moved before it comes off and you can adjust it back.

Our set up is a Thule 900l roof box (http://www.thule.com.au/details.php?p_id=451&listid=18&slistid=&seo=620900_Thule_Motion_900) with two Rhino defender roof racks.

Clearly the first question is load. As far as I can add up...

Racks 10kg (might be a bit generous there)
Roof pod 25kg
Tent 25kg
bedding 15kg
clothes 15kg
Awning 10kg.

That adds up to 100. Of course, about 45 is just the pod, rack and awning. :o Clearly I've either got to reduce the load or find some way of reinforcing things.

Anyway, the point of this is I'm sure I've seen people use small bits of steel (stainless) strap in the gutter to spread the load. Anyone got any ideas about this?

[Yorkshire_Jon]

Could you attach / introduce a couple more bars to the setup? If they could attach to the roof box arrangement and the gutter that would dramatically reduce the point loads in the gutter?

The problem of course is that these systems are not design for heavily corrugated roads, much less a Defender with a roof that flexes as much as they do!

Sent using Forum Runner

[gromit]

I remember quite a restriction on the roofrack load for the Defender.
Just found a manual on-line and it's 150kg for a 2000 model but it states "driving off-road with a loaded roofrack is not recommended" !!

My roofrack where it sits in the gutter has a strip that runs full length to spread the load.
I can upload a picture later if it helps.


Colin

[goingbush]

park your defender across a spoon drain so that the axles are fully articulated / crossed up, then try to open and close a door, it wont open close properly, the body is all twisted up. In notmal 4wding the body is flexing all the time (not to that extent but it all adds up) IMO Thats a great reason not to use a roof rack, unless its properley designed to flex. (are any??) The first thing you will notice is the front of the roof above the windscreen will curl up slightly away from the glass on each side, A rivet on the inside pulls out and the seal goes, then eventually you get wet feet when it rains.

I prefer to pull a trailer than load up the roof, you also end up with a whole heap of other issues resulting from raised COG.

[Captain_Rightfoot]

park your defender across a spoon drain so that the axles are fully articulated / crossed up, then try to open and close a door, it wont open close properly, the body is all twisted up. In notmal 4wding the body is flexing all the time (not to that extent but it all adds up) IMO Thats a great reason not to use a roof rack, unless its properley designed to flex. (are any??) The first thing you will notice is the front of the roof above the windscreen will curl up slightly away from the glass on each side, A rivet on the inside pulls out and the seal goes, then eventually you get wet feet when it rains.

I prefer to pull a trailer than load up the roof, you also end up with a whole heap of other issues resulting from raised COG.

I agree with you.. they flex a lot in normal use. I don't doubt this is a factor in the problem. On the positive side - I've got two individual roof rails connected by a flimsy roof pod so the whole thing can continue to move.

It's only a problem on dirt roads and off road when the body is working a lot.

Unfortunately, backing down a sand dune with a trailer in the middle of the Simpson isn't really an option and I just can't fit enough gear in the back of the car as we loose the back seats as I've got two kids. So, I'm going to have to sort this problem somehow.

[Captain_Rightfoot]

Could you attach / introduce a couple more bars to the setup? If they could attach to the roof box arrangement and the gutter that would dramatically reduce the point loads in the gutter?

The problem of course is that these systems are not design for heavily corrugated roads, much less a Defender with a roof that flexes as much as they do!

Sent using Forum Runner

Unfortunately no, as the pod only has two attachment points, so it's two bars only. Even if I hacked another mount it would be three in the middle third of the pod, as it's rounded outside of the designated attachment points. :(

[Captain_Rightfoot]

I remember quite a restriction on the roofrack load for the Defender.
Just found a manual on-line and it's 150kg for a 2000 model but it states "driving off-road with a loaded roofrack is not recommended" !!

My roofrack where it sits in the gutter has a strip that runs full length to spread the load.
I can upload a picture later if it helps.


Colin

Where did you get the strip from? I'm thinking a small light piece of stainless or the likes might do the trick.

[juddy]

Are the likes of Rhino and thurle actually tested in the outback.

I have had over 5 years use out of my Hannibal rack and not one problem, with both the rack or vehicle. Both the Hannibal and Patriot racks we sell have metal strips between all the leg sets for extra support.

[gromit]

Where did you get the strip from? I'm thinking a small light piece of stainless or the likes might do the trick.

The strip is an integral part of the rack.


Colin

[n plus one]

Are the likes of Rhino and thurle actually tested in the outback.

I have had over 5 years use out of my Hannibal rack and not one problem, with both the rack or vehicle. Both the Hannibal and Patriot racks we sell have metal strips between all the leg sets for extra support.

^^^^ this!

I've had a number of problems with Rhino bars working loose - never any issues with Hannibal racks though.

[bezclez]

Below are a couple of pics of my very basic rack setup.

I've had mixed results with this setup. In the second pic you'll notice the cracking around the top of the A-pillar that has been mentioned. Not sure if this was caused exclusively by the racks as the other side did the same thing shortly after I bought the car in Sep 2011 before anything was attached to the roof. That one was fixed under warranty, the crack in the pic was denied by LR because of the non genuine racks... Whatever...

The basket (home made) and tent are only on there for trips away.

Anyway, I think the best way forward for my setup will be to have rails welded between all the 8 feet to spread the load.

Nothing has rattled loose or moved over all my road trips which have included some bone rattling corrugations.

The only fault was the gutter above the passenger front door deformed downward slightly after a particularly heavy fore/aft pitching incident on Fraser Is. That has since been straightened with success.

As for the body flexing thing at full articulation, I have definitely experienced it. Maybe strengthening the rack might not be the best idea?? What can you do though...

imgur: the simple image sharer (http://imgur.com/Gdz81Rx&KHc4O03#1)
imgur: the simple image sharer (http://imgur.com/Gdz81Rx&KHc4O03#0)

[Captain_Rightfoot]

^^^^ this!

I've had a number of problems with Rhino bars working loose - never any issues with Hannibal racks though.

Ok, so I'm not alone with this. :(

[weeds]

Geez first tank of diesel for the defer this year........now I know why

[isuzutoo-eh]

Whilst I haven't done days of corrugations at a time but the Isuzu rattles everything else loose soon enough. My Rhino bars have never self-loosened off, the only times they have moved are due to rubbing the ends of the bars against a cliff or tree. I have the 5mm spacers between leg and rail, not sure if that adds a measure of flexibility, i'm not one to over tighten things, and the roof top tent doesn't provide all that much rigidity either.
Is it the bars+pod assembly that is too stiff or the roof too flexible?

[camel_landy]

I'm sorry to say this but if you have to carry stuff on the roof, you're carrying too much!

Lighten your load & your vehicle will be all the better for it. Not just for the damage to the roof but also for handling and general longevity.

M

[n plus one]

Ok, so I'm not alone with this. :(

Nope, I've had two different Hannibal racks and one set of three Rhino bars all on the same vehicle (09 110), all carrying the same load (48kg Maggiolina RTT) - never a minutes trouble with the Hannibal racks, constant issues with the Rhinos. Similar story with the ARB rack on my 03 110.

I think Rhino racks are good gear, but they seem to have issues on some Deefers - suspect it relates to the variation in gutter filler?

Agree with comments re overloading, I can notice my RTT on the roof and have made other choices to offset the effects (increased offset wheels, suspension upgrades, all recovery gear and fuel/water carried as low as possible) - I think you need to be careful not to overload the roof, but keep it for light and bulky things and its fine.

[juddy]

Roof racks are not there to carry tons of gear around, light stuff is ok.

You only have to look at any of the expedition books, all the heavy stuff is carried inside the vehicle, I think A roof tent and boxs of lighter spares is more than enough.

I have carried 2 jerry cans up there, only due to the fact I have not got a long range tank. But the next trip they will be lower down, for pure remote travel when you need spare fuel then I would maybe make a allowance for this.

[Captain_Rightfoot]

I'm sorry to say this but if you have to carry stuff on the roof, you're carrying too much!

Lighten your load & your vehicle will be all the better for it. Not just for the damage to the roof but also for handling and general longevity.

M

Look.. I'm right there with you on that. It would be great, and the centre of gravity would be much lower. Our first Simpson trip we did without a pod, but we only had one very small child so could use most of the back seat. Plus, we were absolutely packed to the gunnels which mean making and breaking camp was very slow and stressful. :o

I've got to carry a fridge, food, 120 litres of diesel, 100litres of water, a tyre caracas, some spares, recovery gear, camping equipment, clothes and bedding.. plus I've got two (or three) kids in the back so I've got limited space in the back seat.

If you can tell me how to fit all that into the back of a 110 I'm all ears! :D:D

[juddy]

Its a valid question, how to get all your stuff in the back of a 110, buy a 130, only kidding, but think about the chaps with the 90's....

Look at what you have now and half it....

[weeds]

Hey steve


My dolium rack just sits on my car for most of the year doing nothing.......it quite light compared to my old one

You are more than welcome to use/borrow it for the trip....

.I have a camper trailer so I could manage if we have a weekend away while you are

Don't worry about weight I must have had close to 200kg on my roof when I crossed the Simpson.....keep in mind my old rack weighed 100+kg

Oh and I'm guessing you guys won't be on the tourist tracks

[Captain_Rightfoot]

Its a valid question, how to get all your stuff in the back of a 110, buy a 130, only kidding, but think about the chaps with the 90's....

Look at what you have now and half it....

Things like the fuel, spares + tyre, water, and fridge are largely fixed. There is nothing I can do there.

The camping equipment maybe. We could take micro chairs and make the kids sit on the ground. Leave our two burner stove and buy a hiking stove. Leave the tables at home. I can't see we could make any savings on the bedding, although we could probably go to a smaller tent. I reckon with that lot the car is full... and we haven't even got the familys' clothes in. And we're cooking squatting and sitting on the ground too eat (virtually). That sounds like fun!

I reckon I'd be fine with a 90... the problem here is the kids! :wasntme:

[Captain_Rightfoot]

Hey steve


My dolium rack just sits on my car for most of the year doing nothing.......it quite light compared to my old one

You are more than welcome to use/borrow it for the trip....

.I have a camper trailer so I could manage if we have a weekend away while you are

Don't worry about weight I must have had close to 200kg on my roof when I crossed the Simpson.....keep in mind my old rack weighed 100+kg

Oh and I'm guessing you guys won't be on the tourist tracks

Thanks for the generous offer Weeds. :) I'm going to have a think about options.

I just spoke to the Hannibal reps at TJM Brendale. They confirmed Hannibal don't sell just roof bars on their own.

They did however come up with a couple of ideas. The first one was to loosen off the bolts that join the feet to the bars and then screw up the feet which might make a tiny positioning difference. They also suggested locktighting the screws in case it's actually the screws that are backing off. I think both those suggestions are worth a try.

I will also have a look at what I've got in the back and see if I can bring the tent down into the back of the car. That would knock 25kg off the roof which has got to help the situation. The question is whether I can fit it all in. That would leave only bedding and clothes up top.

I will also have another look at the camping equipment and see if we can strip it back. :eek::eek:

[weeds]

Come to the defender day out next week...........and check out all the racks

[goingbush]

not sure if this bloke has read this thread, his roofrack seems to be showing signs of overloading

http://sphotos-g.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-prn1/13973_10201145540787700_711280163_n.jpg

[camel_landy]

Look.. I'm right there with you on that. It would be great, and the centre of gravity would be much lower. Our first Simpson trip we did without a pod, but we only had one very small child so could use most of the back seat. Plus, we were absolutely packed to the gunnels which mean making and breaking camp was very slow and stressful. :o

I've got to carry a fridge, food, 120 litres of diesel, 100litres of water, a tyre caracas, some spares, recovery gear, camping equipment, clothes and bedding.. plus I've got two (or three) kids in the back so I've got limited space in the back seat.

If you can tell me how to fit all that into the back of a 110 I'm all ears! :D:D

It can all fit, I know, I've done it!!! The trick is to be realistic about what you actually NEED!

I did 12mths with 2x adults & 2x kids living out of our 110. The only things we needed on the roof was the tent canvas and 4x camping chairs (I had a couple of fuel jerries too but never used them!). If we weren't schooling the kids while on the road, we probably would have been able to get it ALL in the back of the 110!

FWIW - That included spare parts, 2x spare wheels, compressor, oils, tools, first aid, recovery kit, food, fridge, 45L water tank, 120L fuel, shower, water filtration, kitchen equip, camping equip, table, chairs, clothes, 'office', schooling books, maps, books, etc...

M

[Captain_Rightfoot]

It can all fit, I know, I've done it!!! The trick is to be realistic about what you actually NEED!

I did 12mths with 2x adults & 2x kids living out of our 110. The only things we needed on the roof was the tent canvas and 4x camping chairs (I had a couple of fuel jerries too but never used them!). If we weren't schooling the kids while on the road, we probably would have been able to get it ALL in the back of the 110!

FWIW - That included spare parts, 2x spare wheels, compressor, oils, tools, first aid, recovery kit, food, fridge, 45L water tank, 120L fuel, shower, water filtration, kitchen equip, camping equip, table, chairs, clothes, 'office', schooling books, maps, books, etc...

M
Ok, photos please? :)

Ours is a wagon.. not a ute which is the only way I can see of fitting all that in. :o I'll take some photos next weekend of the trial pack. :)

Basically the whole left of the car will be taken by the tyre caracas, the right the fridge, bottom of the wheel well the tent and table, front of the load area 100l of fuel... the photos will tell the story. :)

[isuzutoo-eh]

Strap the tyre carcass to the spare on the back door, it doesn't need to be inside. Wrap a bike lock chain around it if you are concerned about theft.

[Westie]

Looks like you (from your previous trip) and the Hannibal reps have come up with your answer. Do the loosen/re tighten thing, loctite and then introduce 'check and tighten roof rack' into your morning once-over routine. And maybe take some spares of whatever bits might rattle loose over a day.

[isuzurover]

Strap the tyre carcass to the spare on the back door, it doesn't need to be inside. Wrap a bike lock chain around it if you are concerned about theft.

x2

That is what I did for a 15k km trip that included the canning stock route. Best place to store a tyre so it doesn't take up space IMHO...

http://i124.photobucket.com/albums/p29/isuzurover/LR_PICS/Misc_June_2010018.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/04/103.jpg

[FeatherWeightDriver]

Completely agree with the point about carrying too much, especially on the roof - guilty as charged on both counts! :wasntme:



Is it the bars+pod assembly that is too stiff or the roof too flexible?

Agree - all other things being equal (yes the amount of stuff you carry) given the flex transmitted to the roof gutters, I would have thought you needed less attachment points between the roof and the racking and/or a racking system that flexes more.

Then again less attachment points = more stress on each attachment point, so it likely not doing the roof gutters any favours.

Has someone suggested carrying less stuff yet? :twisted:

[Yorkshire_Jon]

I haven't read through the middle of the thread, so not sure if this has already been mentioned by Juddy. But in response to the point made earlier about are any racks made to flex, yes, at least one - Patriot. That is the very reason it is a bolted connection and is designed to allow additional flex over an all-welded construction.

Granted when you park a 110DC cross axled you struggle to open the rear doors, but none the less the roof remains attached to the rest of the vehicle.

I sold countless Patriot racks back in the UK and never had a broken roof come back.

R
J

Sent using Forum Runner

[Captain_Rightfoot]

The system we have is extremely flexible. The roof pod has the torsional rigidity of a wet towel and of course the two roof racks are completely independent of each other. :o

[juddy]

Thats one of the major advantages of the Patriot racks....

Welded racks have be know to crack at the weld points.

[camel_landy]

Ok, photos please? :)

Ours is a wagon.. not a ute which is the only way I can see of fitting all that in. :o I'll take some photos next weekend of the trial pack. :)

Basically the whole left of the car will be taken by the tyre caracas, the right the fridge, bottom of the wheel well the tent and table, front of the load area 100l of fuel... the photos will tell the story. :)

Nope, 110 SW...

I don't have any pics of it packed but I'll write up a basic outline of how it was packed if you want??

Here are some pics of it on our travels though. :cool:

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/04/45.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/04/46.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/04/47.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/04/48.jpg

M

[camel_landy]

As promised, I’ve done some words on how my 110 was packed. It's a pity I didn't think about getting some pics at the time but hey ho...

The basic idea behind it all was for a family of 4 to live out of a 110 for 12mths, whilst keeping as much off the roof as possible. It took us a while to get the system right but what I’m going to describe is a system that works for us. I’m not saying this is a definitive way of packing a 110, it’s up to you to decide on what works for yourself. Instead, I’m writing this up to show it can be done, explain some of the rationale and to exchange ideas.

When you look at the car, there are 2x basic areas for packing your kit:

The main load space (Boot).
Nooks & crannies around the car!


Once you’ve identified the space to store the kit, there are a number of other key considerations:

Frequency of access - Things needed regularly, need to be easy to access.
Position – Keep the weight low.
Gross Vehicle Weight (GVW) – Although you might have the space, the GVW must not be exceeded!


To get a definitive kit list, I had to wheedle things down to their bare essentials. Then for packing it away, I used mainly North Face duffels, Peli cases or Zarges aluminium cases for protection. This is the basic process I used:

Tools – Started off with a basic set of spanners, sockets, etc… and then did a full service/overhaul of the car. Any additional tools used to do a job, got added to the kit. The tools were stored in tool-rolls, to prevent rattling.
Spares – Any parts still serviceable after the overhaul were cleaned up and used for spares. Supplemented with a selection of other consumable parts, belts, spares, etc… I also carried enough oils to do a change in the bush as well as random off-cuts of metal, rivets, nuts, bolts, etc… to fabricate a solution if needed.
Camping – Canvas tent, sleeping bags & mats. The tent was big enough for us all to have space should the weather be bad and all sleeping bags were stored in their own North Face Duffel.
Kitchen – Decent pots & pans, knives, cutlery, etc… makes a big difference to comfort on a long trip!!
Personal kit – This is the lowest on the list of priorities. Once I worked out what HAD to be carried, I could allocate the remaining space to personal kit. For us, this came down to 1x North Face Duffel and 1x Peli case each (1600 for adults, 1450 for kids). I told the family that they could take whatever they wanted, as long as it fitted into those bags. In reality, the duffels were used for clothing and the Pelis used for other stuff. E.g. the kids carried their books, toys, pens, etc… in them.



OK, so how did I actually manage to get it all in!!!

Nooks & Crannies.
So this is what I had fixed to the vehicle and/or secreted in various locations around the car:

Fuel – As well as the main tank, there was an additional tank under the driver’s seat giving a total of approx. 120L.
Sounds – iPod based to remove need for CDs.
GPS – Dash mounted 176C, with external antenna. Dual purpose - Large enough for car but small enough to be portable.
Fridge & Water – I changed the rear seats for the 3x separates, available from Exmoor trim and then pulled out the middle seat. I mounted a 45L water tank in the middle of the rear footwell, the fridge mounted above this between the rear seats. (It also acted as a physical barrier between the kids when they started fighting!!)
Pump & filtration – A pump was mounted under the rear seats and a filtration system tucked into the rear loadspace with a tap. That way I can access fresh water when cooking at the back of the car. The pump & water supply is able to double up as a shower and the pump could also be used to fill the tank if needed.
Spare wheels on bonnet & rear door.
Tools on wing tops (Shovel, pickaxe, etc…)
Rear footwells – 2x Peli 1450s for kid’s stuff.
Roof – Tent canvas, camp chairs, ally sand ladders & jerry cans (mainly empty).
Under rear seats – Tent poles & oils (gearbox, engine & EP90)
Battery box – Small tool roll.


Main load area (Boot)
The main loadspace was effectively split into 3x areas, with a trunk & drawer system between the wheel arches and a thick plywood shelf installed, level with the bottom of the windows.

Lower – Between wheel arches
Middle – From wheel arches to level with windows (between storage system & shelf).
Upper – From windows to roof (on shelf).


Lower

Storage trunk – Spares
Pull out drawer system - Kitchen
Fold down table on back door for stoves.
Wooden table stood in small gap between door & drawer system.


Middle

2x Peli 1600s - Office/School. i.e. heavy paperwork.
3x Zarges ally cases - 2x food & 1x for tools/spares.
Tool rolls in the voids down either side, between the cases & bodywork.


Upper

2x Peli 1600s – Computer stuff & Personal effects.
6x North Face Duffels – 4x clothes, 1x sleeping, 1x stuff.
4x Camping mats tucked down sides.
2x Peli 1450s – First aid & electrical.

The duffels were generally placed on-top as they are lighter and damp down any rattling.



Any questions?? :D

M

PS... Do you think it'll be worth starting a new thread???

[Captain_Rightfoot]

Man that is an awesome list. I'm going to have to have a sit down and go through it.

Yes, I think it's a significant body of work and should go into it's own thread titled something like "Packing your defender". :)

[Captain_Rightfoot]

So, another trip to Fraser done, another Rhino roof bar detach after the pod moved during a bypass track crossing. Now I've got more scratches on the gutter, and more dints on the roof. Great.

So, I have been forced to conclude…

1. Two Rhino roof bars just aren't up to supporting even moderate loads without sudden detachment when the going gets rough.
2. Thule roof pods are just not suitable for 4x4ing in the larger sizes. Their claw attachment clamps just can't grip the bars tight enough which enables them to slide around which just makes the problem worse. If they had a larger mounting area and could accept more bars they could be doable - but with just two they are only suitable for on-road use.

So, before the next trip looks like I'm looking for a new full roof rack. :(

[voltron]

park your defender across a spoon drain so that the axles are fully articulated / crossed up, then try to open and close a door, it wont open close properly, the body is all twisted up. In notmal 4wding the body is flexing all the time (not to that extent but it all adds up) IMO Thats a great reason not to use a roof rack, unless its properley designed to flex. (are any??) The first thing you will notice is the front of the roof above the windscreen will curl up slightly away from the glass on each side, A rivet on the inside pulls out and the seal goes, then eventually you get wet feet when it rains.

I prefer to pull a trailer than load up the roof, you also end up with a whole heap of other issues resulting from raised COG.

Ok you have my attention. The COG is the most obvious issue but the others I never really thought about.
Also slightly off topic but this raises a question about roll cages. Mine was criticised for not being attached to the chassis at all 6 points, but the builder was adamant the body needs to flex and would not if it was attached at all 6 points and would create problems in cracking, if not in the cage then the vehicle.

[camel_landy]

So, another trip to Fraser done, another Rhino roof bar detach after the pod moved during a bypass track crossing. Now I've got more scratches on the gutter, and more dints on the roof. Great.

So, I have been forced to conclude…

1. Two Rhino roof bars just aren't up to supporting even moderate loads without sudden detachment when the going gets rough.
2. Thule roof pods are just not suitable for 4x4ing in the larger sizes. Their claw attachment clamps just can't grip the bars tight enough which enables them to slide around which just makes the problem worse. If they had a larger mounting area and could accept more bars they could be doable - but with just two they are only suitable for on-road use.

So, before the next trip looks like I'm looking for a new full roof rack. :(
...or leave some stuff behind. ;)

M

[Bushie]

So, another trip to Fraser done, another Rhino roof bar detach after the pod moved during a bypass track crossing. Now I've got more scratches on the gutter, and more dints on the roof. Great.

So, I have been forced to conclude…

1. Two Rhino roof bars just aren't up to supporting even moderate loads without sudden detachment when the going gets rough.
2. Thule roof pods are just not suitable for 4x4ing in the larger sizes. Their claw attachment clamps just can't grip the bars tight enough which enables them to slide around which just makes the problem worse. If they had a larger mounting area and could accept more bars they could be doable - but with just two they are only suitable for on-road use.

So, before the next trip looks like I'm looking for a new full roof rack. :(

Check that you actually have the correct 'claws' for a defender.
One thing I found out when I inherited some Rhino racks from a Toyota troopie, the legs are the correct height, but the bits that wrap under the gutter have a slightly different profile, as a consequence they came loose. Once I got the correct ones - no problems since.
I'd consider that they have done some serious corrugations over the years, The Cape and Anne Beadell the main ones - on the Anne Beadell there were 4 jerry cans on the rack.
I do have 3 bars under the rack though.


Martyn

[Captain_Rightfoot]

They were purchased new specifically for the defender but it might be worth a check.

The problem is load dependent for sure. We drove around all week on Fraser with the pod pretty much empty and had no problems.

Thing is - I just can't see a way to keep the weight of the pod down. We only ever put bedding and clothes up there, so we have nothing lighter by volume.


Adding a third roof bar might reduce the load enough but there is not really any way of making the pod sit on a third bar. In any case the claws aren't able to handle any lateral load which is common in off road use.

[Jacko44]

I have four cross bars carrying a full rhino platform and its gold

[Captain_Rightfoot]

An update on this.. I cracked it with the Rhino rack coming off all the time before my cape trip. I bought a front runner rack and you never have to touch it.

A mate bought a brand new Rhino rack last year with one of their platforms for his 90. It did exactly the same thing as mine. The latches that grip the gutter just slowly work off until they come undone.

It wasn't me, it wasn't the car - there is something about the Rhino design that doesn't work on the Defender, and it still hasn't been fixed. I just wish I could fix the Rhino dints in the roof. [bigwhistle]