Brakes where to source new pads and rotors

[Owen]

SDV6 back from service today, 22kms and told brakes will need doing next service. I can live with that but the cost makes me think there will be sexual favors and a free holiday to the Bahamas thrown in.....any suggestions for DIY?

[discotwinturbo]

SDV6 back from service today, 22kms and told brakes will need doing next service. I can live with that but the cost makes me think there will be sexual favors and a free holiday to the Bahamas thrown in.....any suggestions for DIY?

Gosh. I have 36k now and both front and rear have plenty of meat. I change between road tyres and touring tyres regularly so always check them each time.

Lots of very heavy towing too. Lots of heavy braking due to hills around our home.

You could change pads yourself and not worry about sensors if they have not yet lit up. Also depends on rotor condition.

A few years back the VW dealer told me I needed new brake pads and rotors....$1200!. Checked them when I got home and had plenty of meat. Did another 20k and then changed the pads myself.

Good luck.....hopefully it's not too painful.

Brett....

[AGRO]

Hi Brett,

Do your comments, that you'll need your "brakes done" next service really mean that you have another 30,000kms on your brakes?

I'm presuming that your next service is due at 52,000km based on servicing at the specified 26,000km interval and you've serviced your vehicle early at 22,000kms.

As a comparison my D4 has 75,000km, being serviced by LR and I still haven't been advised that my brakes need doing even though I'm having % wear rate reported at service. However, I do expect some action wrt to brakes next service at 84,000km.

[SBD4]

My pads were changed at the 78K km service - I do a lot of highway miles though.

[justinc]

Genuine rotors and pads, over the counter at LR cost around the $1K mark all up, and fitting should take no more than 2.5 to 3 hrs tops including cleaning out the park brake shoes and adjusting them, replacing sensors if req etc etc etc The sensors are about $40 to $50 each IIRC so it makes sense to replace pads a little before they get destroyed...there are 2 of them.

As a little comparison, the cost of PARTS ONLY for a brake replacement on a ML63 AMG merc tops out at $8000 if bought through dealer network. :eek: and double :eek:.

The front Brembo discs retail at $2000 apiece, so don't be too harsh about genuine LR bits!

Of course there are plenty of cheaper aftermarket alternatives for the D3 and 4, these are just illustrations RE walking into the dealer parts department and ordering over the counter.

And as regards wear rates, some I have seen at less than 30K worn out, others will see twice that . There are lots of reasons why brakes wear the way they do.

JC

[discotwinturbo]

Hi Brett,

Do your comments, that you'll need your "brakes done" next service really mean that you have another 30,000kms on your brakes?

I'm presuming that your next service is due at 52,000km based on servicing at the specified 26,000km interval and you've serviced your vehicle early at 22,000kms.

As a comparison my D4 has 75,000km, being serviced by LR and I still haven't been advised that my brakes need doing even though I'm having % wear rate reported at service. However, I do expect some action wrt to brakes next service at 84,000km.

Hi Agro,

Good point.

I have mine serviced at 13000km intervals so had that stuck in my head.

I guess the original poster may also have it done at a different schedule. I think if he does not drive his car hard, brake heavily or tow heavy loads, this would be a concern.

Brett...

[Owen]

There Service has been time based, next one in 6 months or at 36k. The car has done limited heavy work, mainly the slow commute to work.

I would say the brakes are a bit rooted from a day in Toolangi mud when the TC was working hard, that **** is very abrasive.

What i am after is options on fitting new Rotors and Pads myself, the originals are way overpriced here at the stealers.

There are examples like this from the USA, Brake Rotor Front (Genuine Part # SDB000624) - Land Rover drums\rotors from Atlantic British (http://www.roverparts.com/Parts/8854G.cfm)

$760plus shipping for a full rebuild kit front and rear.......

Other options ?

[Duke4]

Mine has done 50,000K's and I've had both front and rear pads replaced so the next time round I'll probably need to do the rotors.
For the last 12 months I've been looking at all the shows I go to for aftermarket replacements but so far you can only get replacements for the D3 not the D4.

If anyone has any information to the contrary I'd love to hear it.

It's quite funny, every time I see a stand for DBA rotors I ask the question and they say yes, yes of course we make them for the D4, then they check the book, look it up on the computer, ring a mate and respond with "I guess we don't make them"

[NomadicD3]

Hi Owen,
It's seems to be a common theme with brakes and service agents. 12 months and 22 000 k's ago I was told the front brakes had about 10-15% wear left on them. As I'm about to head off again I decided to pull the front pads and check them for myself, fully expecting to have to replace them yet the worst of the pads still had 4.7mm of pad left. So unless the new brake pads had about 50mm of pad, I think the 10-15% left may have been a little creative on their behalf. At this stage it's now 48000k's with plenty left in them yet.

[Tinman]

Hi Owen, Have been changeing my own pads and sensors on the D3 for some time now. I have found that the pads wear at different amounts from the inside of the rotor to the outside. So if you wait for the light to come on you may do damage to your rotors. The best method is to have a visual look not just the outside pad that is easy to see but check the inside also. I have also used aftermarket pads with great success. The front pads are around $65 a set with the rear at $88 a set no one can tell me why the rear are dearer even though they are smaller. The sensors are around the $20 mark for front and rear. Have done 170000 on my rotors proberly will have to change them with this next pad change depending on how they mic up.

[Calis]

SDV6 back from service today, 22kms and told brakes will need doing next service. I can live with that but the cost makes me think there will be sexual favors and a free holiday to the Bahamas thrown in.....any suggestions for DIY?

Did mine a few months back. Took about 2 hrs for all rotors and pads plus cleaned up the park brake from dust and checked shoes etc.
There is some info here (http://www.disco3.co.uk/forum/topic20548.html?highlight=change+rotors) and a walkthrough guide somewhere I followed but cant find it now. Its mostly about having the right tools and patience. Or get a mechanically minded/experience friend to help.

So 4 x genuine rotors and pads with sensors from Karcraft in Sydney was under $500.

its a MUCH cheaper option when you consider the LR markup and labor.

[Duke4]

So has anyone replaced pads and rotors on a D4 3.0litre themselves?

[TDV6]

My car is a 2.7L Diesel not a SDV6, I am getting two new drilled and slotted front rotors tomorrow for $140 each, I already have the pads $65 from RDA, check out their supplier listing, it may be what you are after. Rotors & Drums Australia + EBC Brakes, The Big Brakes Company | Stockists (http://rdabrakes.com.au/stockists.aspx) I got the RDA Extreme pads.

My car has approx 70k on the last set, 15-20k towing a three ton van, I don't need to replace any yet but as it's a 200k round trip to my supplier I am getting a set right now while he has what I want in stock.

HTH

Ryall

[TDV6]

I forgot to add the link to Bodsy's Brake Bible

DISCO3.CO.UK Photo Gallery - Bodsy's Brake Bible (http://www.disco3.co.uk/gallery/thumbnails.php?album=4184)

Ryall

[DiscoWeb]

Owen,

I am up for a new set of front pads and was quoted $290 for a new set of OEM front pads by my independent Sydney LR mechanic, which is what he advised LR's over the counter price was.

I have just order a set of front and rear (OEM) pads for my TDV6 D3 from Modern Motors Dungog delivered for less than that.

Delivery is 2 -3 days, they are in NSW so I am confident that if there is any problem I can sort it (so better than dealing with and OS internet retailer) and I am supporting a local retailer. A WIN WIN situation !!

And looking at the links below and searching the net changing pads only does not look like too much of a challenge, perhaps next time.

George

[jonesy63]

Hey George - check out TR Spares at Padstow. They list the pads and discs with LR part numbers - so I assume they're genuine... and a lot less than you were quoted.

[Graeme]

So has anyone replaced pads and rotors on a D4 3.0litre themselves?
Yes. Changing them is no different to changing 2.7 pads and rotors.

[Brick]

So has anyone replaced pads and rotors on a D4 3.0litre themselves?

Not quite myself but did get my local workshop to order a set of DBA rotors for my D4 and paid extra to get them custom slotted as they are not a standard model. Wanted best possible braking while towing my van. Just disappointed I can't find aftermarket pads. The OEMs are so dusty.

And second Bodsy's Brake Bible as the ultimate reference.

[Duke4]

Not quite myself but did get my local workshop to order a set of DBA rotors for my D4 and paid extra to get them custom slotted as they are not a standard model. Wanted best possible braking while towing my van. Just disappointed I can't find aftermarket pads. The OEMs are so dusty.

And second Bodsy's Brake Bible as the ultimate reference.

Wow so DBA now make rotors for the D4 3.0, I asked at their stand a couple of weeks ago at the Sydney caravan and camping show and they said no we don't.
Bunch of clowns.

[smoov]

My car is a 2.7L Diesel not a SDV6, I am getting two new drilled and slotted front rotors tomorrow for $140 each, I already have the pads $65 from RDA, check out their supplier listing, it may be what you are after. Rotors & Drums Australia + EBC Brakes, The Big Brakes Company | Stockists (http://rdabrakes.com.au/stockists.aspx) I got the RDA Extreme pads.

My car has approx 70k on the last set, 15-20k towing a three ton van, I don't need to replace any yet but as it's a 200k round trip to my supplier I am getting a set right now while he has what I want in stock.

HTH

Ryall
Good morning Gentlemen.

Apologies for the thread dig, I figured it was easier and more forgiving than have a newbie start a new thread on brakes.

My name is Alex, I own a MY12 D4 TDV6 2.7, and my brake pad warning light came on over the weekend.

I used to play with Subarus a lot. I consider myself somewhat savvy with a spanner, so replacing discs and pads doesn't daunt me too much (the electric handbrake worries me though!)

Anyways, I've searched through these wonderful forums, and asked the question on the AULRO Facebook page, and I have found a wealth of information. Bodsy's Brake Bible has proven so far to be a wealth of information, and has given me the confidence to tackle it myself.

Which brings me to my questions.

1) I can't seem to find a correct part number from DBA or RDA. RDA don't publicly make available their product catalogue, which is understandable. The DBA one though, concerns me, (well, playing with Subarus and other cars, DBA catalogues are rarely accurate!!) because it makes no mention of the 2.7 TDV6 in its listings under Discovery IV. Should I just assume the Discovery III listing as correct for my Discovery 4? I have taken off my wheels to measure, and they compare to the D3 listings.

I would prefer RDA rotors over DBA.(Anyone kind enough to have the part numbers sitting on hand? :cool:)

2) Pads. It's almost November now, and I was wondering what alternatives are there to OEM. Yeah, the OEM are dusty, and I can put up with that to a degree, but what else is out there that's comparatively better? Surely there are alternatives!

3) Handbrake adjustment procedure - is it the same for a D4 as described in Bodsy's Brake Bible? He describes the procedure for a D3, and I was wondering if there were any variances with it? (Link to Bodsy's Bible Here.) (http://www.disco3.co.uk/gallery/albums/userpics/11748/Bodsys_Brake_Bible_V1_6a_CompressPics.pdf)

Cheers!

[clubagreenie]

I'd stay clear of RDA's if you want longevity. A set on the wifes xtrail (never off road) saw less than 30,000k's to wear down past the slots. The pads were only down 2mm by comparison (std OEM pads).

[jonesy63]

IIRC, the factory rotors are made by Brembo.

[clubagreenie]

Yes, OEM spec Brembos are quite cheap and last well by comparison. I'm trying to sort out modding the original centre hubs to take a replacement outer rotor only. Done this quite a few times, turn the disc off but leave enough to bolt the rotor to (like a 2 piece centre and disc). The only issue is keeping the rotor centred or replacing the calliper with a better unit.

I have a set of 8 piston front and 6 piston rear brembos but fitting them under the 16's is a challenge.

[Marmoset]

I put a full set of standard rda discs and their "extreme" semi metallic pads on my 2005 D3 for just over $500 (the pads included the sensor leads in as well) they've taken about 1000km to bed in and were very dusty in the first few weeks but seemed to have calmed down a lot now.

The only thing that killed off getting OEM brembos was the freight charges.

[outasight]

Hi all,

All the brake pad discussions I can find do not mention the part numbers of any brand for the 3.0L SDV6 D4 SE front pads.

Obviously these are different to the 2.7 TDV6 due to the larger 660mm rotors.

Can anyone share what they know is correct?

Regards,

Les.

[JayBee75]

Good Topic Guys, I think this option sits in the back of the mind of most D4 owners/enthusiasts.

Mines hopefully a fair way off (21k), however it is something I have been forward thinking about. I like smoov can do the task and good with a spanner when instructions are clear. I changed the pads on my X5 and sensors for $500 when ze germans wanted $2k at the dealers including discs which were not required.

I am either looking at doing them eventually by myself (time is my constraint) or sourcing the parts and getting the local guys to do it.

Is there a list we can compile by D4/D3 - 2.7/3.0L parts suppliers and different part numbers? Alot of the guys mention sourcing pads/discs etc from various suppliers, who are they? where are they? I think a good listing of part numbers and suppliers in each state may help amatures like myself.

Thanks Guys.:)

[Brotownboy]

Howdy folks. First post here after buying a second hand 2011 sdv6se about 3 months ago. Absolutely love the car and this forum has been a great help so far, so thanks everyone. Anyway I've had a bit of a squeal coming from the front right brake, had a look and found the inner pad is about done, the rest are fine. I've pulled it out and am ready to order before heading away on Thursday. Any recommendations on where to order at reasonable price please. BTW I'm north west NSW. Cheers

[BSM]

Has no-one tried the Akebono brakes? I'm going to look into those for my next change. They produce heaps (http://www.disco3.co.uk/forum/topic102141.html) less dust.

[ADMIRAL]

Hi Guys.

Well here goes. I have some data for you, but I must stress the numbers should be checked before committing, as even the different manufacturer catalogues make incorrect assumptions with which parts will fit on the various models. If you have a 2.7 litre diesel D4, you are probably better off asking for D3 gear to ensure you get the correct stuff. Make sure they don't give you the V8 numbers though.

2.7 litre D3/D4 with 317mm front & 325 rear rotors.
front std rotors PBR2090 - an industry number 2090 should be common.
Front pads Akebono ceramics EUR1098 ( my recommendation ) industry number is 1780. The ceramics for the Disco are about $40.00 more a set than Bendix.
Rear rotors PBR2091- you can get slotted rotors for either end, but they will start at about $100.00 each more than std rotors.
Rear pads EUR1099, industry number 1781. Again ceramics may be $20.00 more than Bendix, but worth it. They are pretty much dust free, and kinder to your rotors.
You will need brake pad wear sensors for one side front & rear. They are generally quite brittle from the heat, and fall apart as you take the old pads out. The sensor manufacturers all use different numbers. The Bosch fronts are 0024, the rears 0025.
.................................................. .................................................. ..

3.0litre D4 360mm front & 354mm rear rotors. A lot of manufacturers seem to quote the rears as nominally 350mm.
Front rotors DBA2096, about $150 retail, the slotted versions about twice that. Front pads 2203 industry number. I am not aware of any ceramics being available for the 3 litre.
Rear rotors DBA2095, pads 1781. I understand the sensors are the same as the 2.7 litre.

From my brief experience with brakes, if you really feel you need higher performance, go for the slotted or the T2 series DBA rotors, but with ceramic pads. The slotted rotors will chew your pads up faster, and the ceramics will help offset this. . The Rotors are not really machinable ( std or slotted , same as most modern rotor applications ) as the available metal from new to scrap is generally too little for machining, ( and in the case of the slotteds, you will lose your slots or grooves ) The D3/4 brakes are good compared to cars let alone other 4WD's. The only need for better brakes may be in towing applications, but IMO the money is probably better spent on the caravans/trailer brakes.

Hope this is of assistance.

[BSM]

From my brief experience with brakes, if you really feel you need higher performance, go for the slotted or the T2 series DBA rotors, but with ceramic pads. The slotted rotors will chew your pads up faster, and the ceramics will help offset this.

Great info Admiral.

How do you think slotted rotors would go off road? I've been through muddy bog holes and the brakes squeal afterwards as the grit gets in there. I'm just wondering if slots would make it harder to clear the mud, dust or other off road grit from the brakes.

[giskard]

For the life of me, I can't find the thread I'm looking for, but I seem to recall reading about after market pads for the D4 that we're long life and didn't dump dust all over the alloys. Does this ring a bell to anyone? Cheers.

[kenl]

I just replaced my pad all round at 80,000kms the disks were still fine as were the sensors.

I bought my parts for a 3.0l 2011 sdv6 from Land Rover Parts - BRAKE PADS (http://www.roverparts.com.au/brake_pads2?b=1) all up it cost just over $300 inc shipping for the parts.

I still need to change the brake fluid, does anyone know if the BBS Faultmate MSV2 does the brake bleeding? I know the old Nanocoms did on the D2

[jonesy63]

Has no-one tried the Akebono brakes? I'm going to look into those for my next change. They produce heaps (http://www.disco3.co.uk/forum/topic102141.html) less dust.

I got as far as ringing Repco to find out the prices. :angel:

Next time the pads are changed, I'll give them a go. ;)

[Graeme]

I bought my parts for a 3.0l 2011 sdv6 from Land Rover Parts - BRAKE PADS (http://www.roverparts.com.au/brake_pads2?b=1)
Is the shape of material on the new rear pads arrow-headed at each end or square but with a sloping leading edge? I ask because that site shows the same part number for both D4 2.7 and 3.0 brakes yet my original 3.0's were square with sloping leading edge whilst the fitted 2.7 pads were arrow-headed. I don't like the arrow-headed ones because they don't wear the disc flat. Karcraft list LR021316 for D3 rear and LR032377 for D4 rear. However I am aware that LR quickly discontinued the original 3.0 D4 alloy rear calliper due to squealing whilst reversing so don't know what calliper was then fitted. Regardless the pads for early 3.0 rear callipers and 2.7 pads are interchangeble - I've used both. I'd like to know whether the LR032377 fits 2.7 callipers and what shape they are.

Edit: That site shows 2.7 & 3.0 rear pads the same number but different prices so must be an error somewhere.

[eddy]

I just replaced my pad all round at 80,000kms the disks were still fine as were the sensors.

I bought my parts for a 3.0l 2011 sdv6 from Land Rover Parts - BRAKE PADS (http://www.roverparts.com.au/brake_pads2?b=1) all up it cost just over $300 inc shipping for the parts.

I still need to change the brake fluid, does anyone know if the BBS Faultmate MSV2 does the brake bleeding? I know the old Nanocoms did on the D2

If you put Aulro in Roverparts coupon code when ordering, you receive free postage.Well worth it if shopping for rotors!

[Brotownboy]

I scored some aftermarket ones for $125 from all 4x4 spares from over Newcastle way. I'm sure they'll be fine. Thanks everyone for the updates as I'm not sure how to thank individual posts. Cheers

[ADMIRAL]

For the life of me, I can't find the thread I'm looking for, but I seem to recall reading about after market pads for the D4 that we're long life and didn't dump dust all over the alloys. Does this ring a bell to anyone? Cheers.

Try Akebono. read the other posts on this thread.

[pwillo]

Thinking of trying Akebono pads when my time is up, they get a pretty good write up on Disco 4.com.
Lower dust etc

Regards

[pwillo]

Beat me by that much....:)

[ADMIRAL]

Great info Admiral.

How do you think slotted rotors would go off road? I've been through muddy bog holes and the brakes squeal afterwards as the grit gets in there. I'm just wondering if slots would make it harder to clear the mud, dust or other off road grit from the brakes.

The slots or cross drilling is supposed to assist in releasing the build up of gas and debris from a brake application. I think it will still do this off road, but IMO it would also allow the crap to get in there, under the pads faster. If you were in wet conditions off road, I don't think it would take too long to fill up a slotted or gross drilled rotor with rubbish. So overall I doubt you will get much of an advantage off road. More benefit on road I feel.

[clubagreenie]

Slotted is ok but cross drilled tend to micro crack around the holes apart from filling with crap. It does as said, releases gases from under the pad which is perfectly fine and beneficial. Cross drilling lowers weight (unsprung and on cast rotors is considerable), dissipates heat and looks cool but for road use where you want longevity it's of no real benefit.