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View Full Version : Replacing rear side panels - what's involved.



OffTrack
30th April 2013, 01:54 PM
I'm looking at replacing a side panel to repair some damage around the passenger tail light and have read in RAVE that this section essentially bolts in.

The wreckers have said its basically a few bolts , a couple of rivets and sealant.

Just wondering if anyone has done this and if so can give me an idea of what is involved.

Cheers
Paul

Disco Muppet
30th April 2013, 01:59 PM
I think Baz (Redback) replaced a rear panel at some point, perhaps shoot him a PM?

clubagreenie
30th April 2013, 03:40 PM
Is it just the corner section housing the taillight or the side guard (wheel arch) section as well?

The book shows them as individual items, the corner ASR2220/2221 RH & LH respectively and the bodysides ASR1084/1085 again RH & LH respectively. But it also noted that the corner (named as a panel-rear inner quarter) is part of the bodyside assy.

It doesn't show any fasteners associated with it though which would indicate that it may be welded in as I know that for instance the radiator support and inner guards mostly spot weld in but there are some bolted sections for mounts common to other panels and these fasteners are listed.

Yorkie
30th April 2013, 03:44 PM
I think Baz (Redback) replaced a rear panel at some point, perhaps shoot him a PM?

hehe, and scratched the new one shortly after... :p

***** of a job as need to remove all the internal bins and bits to get to the joins. good luck and await the tute!. :)

OffTrack
30th April 2013, 03:53 PM
The wreckers are selling the entire side panel with side glass for $325 in the same colour as my d2.

RAVE says "The panel body side assembly does not require any welding, as it is bolted into position" pg 77-3-41

The seam sealing section of RAVE shows where the sealant needs to be applied - along the full length of the top of the panel and in several places under the wheel arch.

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=59791&stc=1&d=1367304675

I've since had a look at mine and the sealant is visible just below the drip rail and has a coating of duco over it so will need repainting which sort of defeats the purpose of doing the job myself. I might as well suck it up and pay the $500 insurance excess on this one. I might be able to persuade the panel shop to blow some paint over a new bottom rear door hinge while it's in for repair.

cheers
Paul

bsperka
30th April 2013, 05:48 PM
From the D2 boys website. The fuel filler side, not the passenger side.

The D2 Boys Club. - Login (http://www.thed2boysclub.co.uk/forums/viewtopic.php?f=15&t=18356)

clubagreenie
30th April 2013, 06:39 PM
For $500- I wouldn't even attempt it. Might as well get it warranted.

OffTrack
30th April 2013, 06:51 PM
From the D2 boys website. The fuel filler side, not the passenger side.

The D2 Boys Club. - Login (http://www.thed2boysclub.co.uk/forums/viewtopic.php?f=15&t=18356)

Interesting and it looks pretty doable but the last post really sums up the issue with diying it unless you have the means to refinish the seam sealing.


What did you use when reattaching the panel on the outside under the gutter to make it look factory fit???

It's going to look pretty ****ty if it's not done right.

schuy1
30th April 2013, 09:07 PM
I agree with clubagreenie, for 500 you will get some sort of warranty and less stress :D I have replaced/panel beated stuff of vehicles over the years and I can always see the imperfections in my work but not so much with a panel shops, unless it is glaringly bad! When done by a pro I always had the option of taking it back! :D

clubagreenie
30th April 2013, 11:30 PM
Pity you're not in Sydney. The guys that did mine were outstanding.

Can't say the same about the contract electrician they used though.

OffTrack
1st May 2013, 05:25 AM
Pity you're not in Sydney. The guys that did mine were outstanding.

Can't say the same about the contract electrician they used though.

Getting it done through an insurance company preferred panel shop close to where I work. I think they should be ok: Gladstone Motor & Panel Car Repair Specialists in Melbourne (http://www.gladstonepanels.com.au)

clubagreenie
1st May 2013, 12:08 PM
The last people I'd use based on previous experience, being assaulted on the premises, are preferred shops. They work to a price not quality.

The three "quotes" that were provided by preferred shops on my front end kangaroo damage all wanted to panel beat the radiator support panel, inner & outer guard and door. I had to argue the point that the shop I wanted were $2000- cheaper and that was to replace everything new.