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frostyblue
3rd May 2013, 11:48 PM
Anyone have a good spot for putting one in a D2, i just dont like it hanging on the bullbar, i was thinking about cutting the bottom out of the spot where the jack lives, someone suggested behind the headlights but there is no room, since ive fitted second batt carrier i now have lost an otherwise good spot, without taking out the batt is ther room under the jack area if the floor part is removed, i prob need another 4inch, dont really wanna dremel it out to find the wheel arch is right up there

Cheers

Ken

clubagreenie
3rd May 2013, 11:51 PM
I removed the huge box it fits in and fitted it behind the grille, just under the horn on the right (vehicles right). There's also a change over switch for the wireless remote thats fitted to the same bracket and can be just seen if you look up under the slat of the grille.

frostyblue
4th May 2013, 12:02 AM
Well i never thought about taking it out of the box, good idea, maybe would fit nice in jack area, can you see no issue with solenoids being out in the open eg dirt or corrosion, great idea though will need to investigate

Cheers

Ken

clubagreenie
4th May 2013, 12:37 AM
Mine have been dunked in mud and roo blood as well as head butted by same roo and still work. The box is a hang over from pre small solenoid times when they did fill out all that space.The newer types are much better.

Jason789
4th May 2013, 06:11 AM
Mine is up against the firewall just near the rollover switch.

Cheers,

Jason

frostyblue
4th May 2013, 10:42 PM
Jason, you mean in the box or seperated out

Cheers

Ken

iPom
5th May 2013, 06:59 AM
As others have done, I took the solenoid out of the box as I was not happy with the position or look of it sitting on top of the bull bar. I have moved mine up to driver's side inner wing near the brake servo/booster. You will obviously need to extend the wires. I used 2B/S to ensure a good 12 volt supply to the winch motor. Make sure the cables are well sheathed in conduit and also that they do not rub or chafe through. I also extended the switch wiring using 3 core wire and have positioned the control plug on the front grill. I will also had in an in-cab switch on the Mud Pod on the dash using a momentary ON-OFF-ON Carling Switch and also a winch isolator inside the car as I have a young daughter you just loves hanging about in the car when I'm working on it....

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/05/1227.jpg (http://s370.photobucket.com/user/3Broons/media/null_zps960542b3.jpg.html)

The wires in the above pic are yet to be sheathed in conduit....but you get the idea..

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/05/1228.jpg (http://s370.photobucket.com/user/3Broons/media/null_zps26e8d414.jpg.html)

Cheers

Dave

Jason789
5th May 2013, 08:57 AM
Jason, you mean in the box or seperated out

Cheers

Ken

Hello Ken,

The whole box is mounted on the fire wall,(away from prying hands) with the wiring routed around the engine bay to the winch.
I did pay an auto elec to do the job because I had no cheap access to the heavy cable or crimpers that were needed( I think the bloke made a mistake at the time as he only charged me about $160 plus the cost of the new battery terminals. I would imagine that the cost of the cable he used would have taken up a large chunk of what he charged). It works just fine.
The winch is a Tigerz with a remote control so there is no need to plug any controller in.
It was a good excuse to get some better battery terminals aswell
I will put up some pics a bit later tonight as I am working until late in the day.

PS: The pics are:
1)Control box close up.
2)Same pic a bit further back.
3)One of my you beaut battery terminals
4) The cable running up the side of the engine bay

Cheers,

Jason

frostyblue
5th May 2013, 09:53 PM
Thanks for all the pics guys, looks like ive added anotherjob to the list

Cheers

Ken

OffTrack
6th May 2013, 12:16 PM
The Factory winch isolator kit used a solenoid mounted to the underside of the "bonnet locking platform" (as it is officially called) near the driver side of the radiator. This is a similar location to what Clubagreenie has described.

Obviously it's not going to be identical or perhaps even feasible with a big waterproof contactor, but it does a very short wiring path to the winch compared with the convoluted setups that result from putting the solenoid near the brake booster. Anyway it might suggest some alternative possibilities.

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=60087&stc=1&d=1367806210

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=60086&stc=1&d=1367806191

I'm still in planning stages but have been considering using this location with wiring extended around the front of the engine bay to the second battery.

cheers
Paul

Tombie
6th May 2013, 01:03 PM
A simple make or break switch in the control feed will disable them from shorting the pins.

It's a low current line and easily doable!

turps
6th May 2013, 01:48 PM
I am just using an albright solenoid mounted in what looks like the factory posistion going by the above pictures (drivers side of RHD).
I then have two momentary switches mounted on grill for in/out and a inout switch mounted in the cab. Both are isolated by the one switch in the cab.

It keeps all the main power wires extremly short.
I have to fill the washer bottle this arvo. So I will try and remember to take some pictures.

clubagreenie
7th May 2013, 07:52 PM
Whats the wiring going inside on the factory diagrams? An OEM operation switch? If so whats the part number?

OffTrack
7th May 2013, 08:40 PM
Whats the wiring going inside on the factory diagrams? An OEM operation switch? If so whats the part number?

The diagram is just of the isolator kit. I believe it was Warn product sold by LR.

There is a switch located in the dash "dimmer" location with wiring run down to the isolator solenoid.

There is an blog post on installing a kit thatis basically the same thing here

http://mostlypyjamas.wordpress.com/2008/03/16/fitting-a-winch-interrupt-kit-to-a-land-rover-discovery-2/


I'd posted up more as an illustration of how you could mount a winch solenoid in that location.

ADD: The cutout kit was STC 50299. There are fitting instructions in the Accessories pdf on the RAVE cd, or you can download from Topix: http://topix.landrover.jlrext.com/topix/service/document/61056

http://www.warn.com/truck/accessories/power_interrupt.shtml

turps
8th May 2013, 06:16 PM
Heres mine.
Cant get a pic of the albright soliniod. As its behind the grill. But you can see the 2 bolts that hold it in place.

View of the front of the car with winch and control buttons
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/05/961.jpg (http://s93.photobucket.com/user/Turps_Patrol/media/13a2a910-4572-4e16-b33f-ba55f69ec828.jpg.html)

Close up of in/out switches on grill and the 2 bolts that hold the solinoid in place.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/05/962.jpg (http://s93.photobucket.com/user/Turps_Patrol/media/photo2.jpg.html)

This shows where I have mounted the isolate switch and momentary in/out switch.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/05/963.jpg (http://s93.photobucket.com/user/Turps_Patrol/media/photo1.jpg.html)

And yes I need to clean the inside of the car.

clubagreenie
11th May 2013, 08:27 AM
Where did the buttons on the grille come from?

turps
13th May 2013, 11:56 PM
eBay. But if your close I have spares.
I thought they might be to small to start with but now they are there. They're perfect. And waterproof.

Jaycar also sell them from memory. But they only had red and black.

clubagreenie
14th May 2013, 08:20 PM
They're waterproof I'll assume.

Not that close but will tfr funds to cover goods and postage, rather give it to you than retailers.

PM me paypal or some other info and how much to send.

turps
15th May 2013, 09:39 PM
Yep they appear to be waterproof. I have washed the car and driven in the rain. And they still work fine. They have been the car since christmas and still work fine.
I was concerned so brought a bag of 10 (might have been more).

clubagreenie
15th May 2013, 10:26 PM
Look at it this way, 2 for the front, back and sides each, plus 2 for the roof so you can still pull if it really goes under.