EAS Oddities

[TheTree]

Hi

My EAS occasionally acts a little weird.

The Air Springs have been done and it never loses height overnight.

But every now and again after it has been turned off it takes a long time to come up from access mode and also occasionally goes to offroad height and takes a while to go down to normal height.

Sometimes this happens first thing in the morning and sometimes after i have been driving for a while.

Should i be concerned about this or just put it down to the odd weird glitch?

Thanks
Steve

[mtb_gary]

Steve

Are you getting any error codes?
The long time taken come up from access I was starting to think air loss in the main tank? But then you also get the unexpected up to off road height. Does the height switch indicate that it is going to an off road setting (flashing light) rather than highway? My thought would be a suspect height sensor. Do you have a faultmate you could plug in to check if any errors have been present in the system?

Gary

[TheTree]

Hi Gary

No error codes and no flashing lights, except when going from access to normal of course.

With the Ofrroad height it is just at that height when i turn the beastie on.

I have a faultmate on my list of stuff to get, looks like it just moved to a higher priority !

Steve

[PeterAllen]

Hi Steve,
I have had similar strange events happen and more recently the compressor is now failing to be activated, ( The compressor actually works but the system is not activating it).
I am still tracing the issue and am trying to narrow down the problem area. It may be a couple of things rather than just one issue as I am suspect of the pressure switch and the EAS delay relay as being at fault.
The issues you describe are similar to mine before the compressor activation stopped, in that it would occasionally change from Highway to High rather than going to Standard height and other weird behaviour.
I will let you know if I find out the cause of the problem.

[TheTree]

I have an unlock cable (thanks PaulP38) and the Storey Wilson software, so i will hook that up pretty soon and see what it says!

Steve

[TheTree]

My Rangie also has what appears to be an EAS bypass switch mounted under the passenger seat, I am wondering if i should turn it on and see what happens.

Any opinions on that ?

Thanks
Steve

[PeterAllen]

Hi Steve,
I ran the EAS unlock software on mine but if there are no fault codes to clear then its back to manual testing. In any event the faults indicated on the unlock software are not much more than a guess rather than actually identifying where the problem actually is. (see notes on Storey Wilson's site) most faults could mean all sorts of things rather than what the fault code actually identifies due to the way the EAS is set up.
If you have a bypass switch then all it will do is the same as pulling the delay timer relay under the seat and it will freeze the system and lock it at whatever height you are at.
I dont have a bypass switch but I am running around with the delay relay out so am in the same situation. Just keeps my system inflated for work but it sends a 55 slow message on the dash and lights up all heights. I also get a reminder beeping when I turn the ignition on but sure beats running around on the bump stops

[Hoges]

Hi

My EAS occasionally acts a little weird.

The Air Springs have been done and it never loses height overnight.

But every now and again after it has been turned off it takes a long time to come up from access mode and also occasionally goes to offroad height and takes a while to go down to normal height.

Sometimes this happens first thing in the morning and sometimes after i have been driving for a while.

Should i be concerned about this or just put it down to the odd weird glitch?

Thanks
Steve


Leaks in valve block... check especially o-rings on the backflow valves; and condition of the diaphragm....

[TheTree]

Leaks in valve block... check especially o-rings on the backflow valves; and condition of the diaphragm....

Thanks Hoges, looks like a valve block rebuild coming up :eek:

Steve

[TheTree]

It would be handy to get a valve block which needs a rebuild and do that then drop it in :D

Might try some wreckers or UK breakers

Steve

[Hoges]

o-ring kit, cup of coffee, sheet of 'butchers' paper on the kitchen table marked into multiple squares with a marking pen, with squares labelled for indicating which part is which, PaulP38a's instructions and a spare 60 mins and you're done!:D

[TheTree]

o-ring kit, cup of coffee, sheet of 'butchers' paper on the kitchen table marked into multiple squares with a marking pen, with squares labelled for indicating which part is which, PaulP38a's instructions and a spare 60 mins and you're done!:D

Sounds like a doddle Hoges :eek:

[TheTree]

I have seen this kit on ebay from Holland, which includes the diaphragm.

Range Rover P38 EAS Valve Block O Ring SET Diaphragm | eBay (http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Range-Rover-P38-EAS-Valve-Block-o-ring-set-diaphragm-/190553702909?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item2c5de2c1fd)

Seems like a good idea to do the diaphragm at the same time.

I have seen separate Diaphragm kits which include bolts, is it really necessary to replace the bolts as well?

Going to call airbagman tomorrow and see if he has anything.

Steve

[Hoges]

the e-bay vendor is Goswin Rouw. He's p[osted on here and RR.net. I've gotten some stuff from him previously and he's a good bloke! Range Rover addict like the rest of us!:D

[PaulP38a]

the e-bay vendor is Goswin Rouw. He's p[osted on here and RR.net. I've gotten some stuff from him previously and he's a good bloke! Range Rover addict like the rest of us!:D

Yeah, he is a nice bloke. I tried one of his aftermarket diaphragms a few years back. Difference between his and the ones I was doing is that his diaphragm has a moulded section on top to locate in the valve block and centre the spring.

BTW: I still have lots of o-ring kits with diaphragms that I will continue to supply to AULRO members at a very reasonable price.

[TheTree]

BTW: I still have lots of o-ring kits with diaphragms that I will continue to supply to AULRO members at a very reasonable price.

Paul,

I will ping you about a kit :D

Steve

[TheTree]

Hoges looks to be right on the money again.

While replacing my e-box fan this weekend, I had the cover off the eas system.

I noticed that the compressor looks new but the valve block looks original.

So i reckon that when the car had suspension problems, they replaced the air springs and the compressor, plus they fitted a manual kit and a bypass switch. But they didn't touch the valve block.

Bit like the way they replaced one heater hose, but not the other which was very soft and suspect.

So next weekend, valve block rebuild!

Steve

[superquag]

Yeah, he is a nice bloke. I tried one of his aftermarket diaphragms a few years back. Difference between his and the ones I was doing is that his diaphragm has a moulded section on top to locate in the valve block and centre the spring.

BTW: I still have lots of o-ring kits with diaphragms that I will continue to supply to AULRO members at a very reasonable price.

Just curious... about how much?

Anything for compressor re-building ? - I have an (unknown condition) s/h compressor somewhere in my shed... My current Classic one is 3 years rebuilt.

- and is there any real advantage in a moulded diaphragm? (- Never heard of anyone using yours to have a problem)

[PaulP38a]

Just curious... about how much?

$25 for an EAS O-ring Kit with aftermarket Diaphragm plus $10 Express Post.
$50 for 2 kits and free postage.
$100 for 5 kits and free postage.

PayPal to paul_AT_paulp38a.com



Anything for compressor re-building ? - I have an (unknown condition) s/h compressor somewhere in my shed... My current Classic one is 3 years rebuilt.
I have a small number of the compressor piston seals left.
$25 each, free postage if ordered with the EAS O-ring kit.

I have run out of replacement cylinder/sleeves since my only reliable source closed down.
I am interested to know if anyone has found a good quality cylinder/sleeve replacement since Rover Renovations closed? His stainless steel sleeves were the best IMHO.



- and is there any real advantage in a moulded diaphragm? (- Never heard of anyone using yours to have a problem)
Don't think so, they both seem to do the job just fine. All they have to do is seal the inner pipe from the outer "ring" and then flex to allow air to pass between them.

Cheers, Paul.

[TheTree]

We did the EAS valve block rebuild yesterday, took about 8 man hours all up.

I followed Paul's excellent instructions and had no problems.

The only thing i did different was to use Permatex blue threadlocker on the hex head bolts(which I torqued to 5nm) and the long screws which hold the solenoid valves on. All of these screws had evidence of threadlocker on them when they came out, so I thought it best to use threadlocker when putting it back together.

I also used a series of takeaway food containers to hold the bits for all the different solenoids, see attached pic ;)

I will monitor it's behaviour over the next few weeks and see if it has settled down

Steve

[PeterAllen]

Hi Steve, Did you find anything in your valve block that may have been the issue, eg broken squashed twisted o rings??

[TheTree]

Hi Peter,

Nothing appeared to be damaged, though I am pretty certain it had never been taken apart before, so all the rubber bits were about 14 years old and some were pretty hard.

The block itself was very clean.

Since i did this the EAS is behaving much better :cool:

Steve

[poleonpom]

Just completed replacing all the O rings in the valve block and in the failing light of Sunday night, put the whole EAS unit back together again.

Imagine my disappointment when the EAS didn't fire up, so back to the manual valves and I pumped the bags up.

Next morning the NSF was on the bump stops and the Wonky Rover was born - most frustrating and responsible for my apparent lack of humour.

Fortunately I got back home early on Monday in the Wonky Rover (looking like a drunk jacked up not-so-hot rod) and in the daylight whipped off the valve cover for the NSF (number 4 from memory). It gave a off a small 'pop'even after letting out all the air.

I then pumped a little more air into the line and sprayed some washing liquid mix over the exposed valve and noticed air bubbling through the shaft. These have the tiniest o rings fitted.

I removed the valve from the block and there, unnoticed during refit, was a speck of crud that was stopping the o ring from seating properly, how it got there I don't not know as I swear (and swear I did) that it was all clinically clean.

Cleaned off crud, put back together and reseated valve, added air, washing liquid test, dried off block and all is good. Replaced valve cover and....

....it works!

EAS cranks over and is now working like a dream, you could say I'm floating on air :D

I'd got the new O rings from Rover Renovations eons ago and just did not have the time to fit them due to massive home renovations: The old O rings were definitely past their prime.

Not a difficult job, but definitely a bit fiddly

Big thanks to Paul P38's excellent instructions, I would have been somewhat lost without it

[TheTree]

Bad luck about that bit of crud :angry:

I used compressed air and blew out every gallery i could see, then as per Pauls suggestion, I used cotton buds in the airline collet holes.

The EAS on "The Toy" as SWMBO has named my Rangie, is now behaving very well :D

I agree it's a fairly easy but fiddly job.

Next step for me is to finish off my bypass setup and put some spacers under the EAS box to lift it off the body.

Steve