Nipping going into 3rd gear

[pushkin]

Hi guys

Have an issue on my 1999 TD5 when changing into 3rd gear. Unless I let the revs drop right down there's a nip (slight crunch) going from 2nd to 3rd. I drive like a total grandad and dont fly through the gears and make sure to depress the pedal fully but unless i take it very slow it catches/nips. When started from cold there is a squeal when the clutch is first depressed but goes away as soon as I pull away. Is it as simple as time for a new clutch ? How can you tell it's time for a new clutch ? Has 120k on the clock.
Thanks in advance

Paddy

[BilboBoggles]

sounds like the pilot bearing - the oilite bearing that the input shaft on the gearbox rests on within the flywheel is dry. That woudl explain the squeal and the dragging clutch going into 3. Unfortunately it's a gearbox out job to fix, and you might as well put a new clutch, flywheel and rear main seal in at the same time. (Unless you are doing the box removal yourself and don't have to pay for it to be done, in which case - pull the box - replace the bearing and stick it back together again until something else brakes.)

[pushkin]

Yikes! that sounds expensive :(

Any idea what a job like that might set you back ? Don't have the know-how or tools to do it myself unfortunately...

[BilboBoggles]

Flywheel is about $900
Clutch I think was about $600
Rear main seal I think was $50

So I think about $1600 in parts, and about 8 hours labour.. Pretty much added up to $2.5k when I had mine done.

If it is that bearing - I just remembered it's proper name - The Spigot Bearing, then you can drive it for quite a long time like that. Just be careful going into third and make sure you rev match better and it will go for a long time. If you can change gears without using the clutch then you can drive with a stiff spigot bearing - as long as you can put up with the cold squeal.


You might also benefit from disconnecting the switch on the clutch master cylinder, this will prevent the ECU from playing with the throttle when you change gears. It made my stiff second gear TD5, a heap easier to drive, because I can now more easily get the rev's to match.

[pushkin]

Ok, I was thinking it would run into that kind of money..

I've been careful to prevent the nipping most of the time but I have to remember every time - and that doesn't happen with anything ;)

Haven't noticed (is it noticeable?) the ECU playing with the throttle before so I'm starting to suspect that function might be gone too... I'll take a look at the master cylinder and try to find that switch.

Thanks for the advice Bilbo, much appreciated.

[BilboBoggles]

You'll notice it when its gone. Most noticeable as that special defender trick of having the cars behind nearly rear end you when you change into second taking off from the lights. That's because the ecu kills the power for a few seconds on gear changes. Disconnect the switch and then it drives like a normal car.

[frantic]

If you have to fix it or notice it getting worse, try and plan it and check the price for the parts direct from one of many U.K suppliers compared to LR Oz, you could save about 1/2 the price;).

http://www.firstfour.co.uk/products/land-rover-parts-dept-/defender-parts/clutch-parts

http://www.paddockspares.com/parts-and-accessories/land-rover-defender/clutch.html

etc.

[Landover]

I just went through the exact same thing on my D2 TD5 and the wallet has taken a beating.

At first the spigot bush started squawking then it started clunking into 4th. Then it would get hard to change up and down gears. This all happened on a 400km trip. I was hoping it was just the clutch and spigot bush but on removal the spigot bush had collapsed and possibly put pressure on the input bearing to the gearbox and that had collapsed. When draining the oil it was full of filings. The Dual Mass fly wheel was also stuffed.

So I had a Solid flywheel and clutch fitted and new gearbox.

I hope yours is not as bad as this but just giving you a worst case scenario so you don't keep driving it and stuff the box and have to mortgage the house to repair it.

[pushkin]

Hey guys, just got the diagnosis - spigot gone :(

Going to book it in for a rebuild. Can anyone tell me the parts I should have replaced while its off.

So far I'm looking for:
Clutch kit
Spigot bearing
Rear main seal
Flywheel

Is there anything else I should add to that list ? Are there brands I should avoid for any of those parts ?

Thanks

[BilboBoggles]

I'd get the gearbox mounts replaced - and if you are rich the engine mounts - that makes a large difference to the amount of vibration in an older TD5.

I'd also get the clutch release arm looked at and if needed replaced. The Defenders have a cast release arm, but that can wear too.

I'd go genuine for ALL parts. I've heard stories about after market flywheels hot spotting relatively quickly. Frankly it's not worth the pain of taking a gamble on aftermarket parts, you really only want to do this job every 200,000k's at most. You may still get a defective part but at least you won't kick yourself for causing the issue by skimping.

[Landover]

Hey guys, just got the diagnosis - spigot gone :(

Going to book it in for a rebuild. Can anyone tell me the parts I should have replaced while its off.

So far I'm looking for:
Clutch kit
Spigot bearing
Rear main seal
Flywheel

Is there anything else I should add to that list ? Are there brands I should avoid for any of those parts ?

Thanks

That's about it for the clutch. The clutch forks on the TD5 don't have the same issue of pushing through as the earlier ones did but inspect anyway. While you have the sump off for the rear main check and lock tight the oil pump bolt if not all ready done. Mine had been done but still needed a slight nip up. Give the input shaft on the box a wobble to make sure the bearing is ok. Also drop the oil and check for filings. Good luck!

[SimonM]

I just went through the exact same thing on my D2 TD5 and the wallet has taken a beating.

So I had a Solid flywheel and clutch fitted and new gearbox.

I hope yours is not as bad as this but just giving you a worst case scenario so you don't keep driving it and stuff the box and have to mortgage the house to repair it.

Aah it must be the season for it - if it was my house I lived in I would of mortgaged it. My gearbox was stuffed, JC said it was the second worst he had seen that was still going :o. Not cheap, but I am bit by bit slowly getting a new car ;).