97 130 Defender Engine / Upgrade Options?

[chewy7]

Hi lads,
I'm proud to say i'm finally a defender owner, although i only got to spend 98km behind the wheel of my new beast before the clutch let go! :p It started to slip in 5th gear going over the gateway bridge. Luckily for me i was able to nurse it home in 1-4th without any slipping.

Which brings me to my next question; I've been roaming the internet and various forums for my next course of action.

Currently as it stands, my car has traveled 197,xxxKm and it has the motor rebuilt at 124,xxx at MR automotive with a bill of over $8,000 to show this. The car is still driveable but i don't want a tow ride home just yet! And a host of other mechanical bits and pieces from heavy duty drive lines, new chassis, etc. Except it wasn't maintained in an aesthetic point of view. Lots of dents, lots of rust in the panels, faded paint, missing left rear corner window, seats all torn, no roof lining, dash cracked and broken. So i've got alot to restore!

My options as i see it:
1: - Locate a 300 TDI auto gearbox / ancillaries and install it. Whilst i'm looking for a box, i'll attack the interior with some new seats/dash and sort out the rust in the bulk head and try stop those pesky water leaks. Is it possible to weld the vents below the windscreen shut? And attempt to get the dents sorted and paint the 130 in Santorini Black. Also a timing belt kit.

2: - Locate a Discovery 2 TD5 with an auto gearbox and do a complete conversion with gearbox/motor in one lot. And to do this, as i understand, i will need to modify/cut/weld my chassis to accommodate the new motor, but the gearbox will still bolt up its original location? And i can use my original drive shafts? And will also require a stand alone gearbox ECU and i'll need to source a Defender TD5 wiring harness/ECU ? Or can i use the wiring and ecu from the disco for the engine / box?

3: - Locate a Discovery 3 with a TDV6 and source a 4HP22EH or 4HP24EH and try and get the thing running. Which will require cutting the chassis and a stand alone computer for the engine/gearbox?


Or i try keep it simple for the moment and source the auto ZF 4HP22 from a 300 tdi and get the car running with the interior/bulk head sorted. And also try get the respray done in Santorini Black bit by bit. And possibly a timing belt kit as the motor has nearly travelled 80,000km since the rebuild.


As i see it, if i go with option 2 or option 3, it will require lots of re-wiring and chassis modifications. So i may as well go with option 3 and have something unique in the long run.

Is anyone able to confirm the modifications required to the chassis to fit a Disco TD5/ Auto gearbox in a 300TDI? I tried to find some guides/write up's but have been unsuccessful thus far.


I'll keep you guys posted on the car and try my best to document each step i take with him.

Any advice/Parts locations/Prices would be much appreciated! :D I'll be doing all the work myself, so labour isn't a factor! :D

Also, i'm looking to sell the steel tray on there at the moment in favor of an original tub. Any takes? / swaps for a tub?

Ideally i would like to go down the Disco 3 TDV6 option, but for the moment i may settle with a Disco TD5 or a 300 TDI auto gearbox.

Cheers,
Shane

[isuzurover]

I'm not sure I understand. You have a 300tdi with only 70k km since being rebuilt, and all it needs is a new clutch (~$500-1k to pay someone to do).

Why the switch to auto?

The TDV6 option will be expensive. I think the standalone computer is ~$10k alone!

[vnx205]

Is it possible to weld the vents below the windscreen shut?

Why would someone who lives in Brisbane want to do that?

Those vents are great!

[nedflanders]

Why would someone who lives in Brisbane want to do that?

Those vents are great!

Gotta agree, love the vents and another reason not to buy a Ford Defender :D

[vnx205]

Is it possible to weld the vents below the windscreen shut?


Why would someone who lives in Brisbane want to do that?

Those vents are great!


Gotta agree, love the vents and another reason not to buy a Ford Defender :D

Maybe he wants to pretend it is a Puma (or whichever model it was when Land Rover took the backward step of doing away with the vents). :D:D

[chewy7]

Maybe he wants to pretend it is a Puma (or whichever model it was when Land Rover took the backward step of doing away with the vents). :D:D


I'm under the impression that's where my water leaks are from? :-D

[Sitec]

Defenders leak... That's a given! :) A neighbours friend has a 2011 Puma, and we give him huge amounts of flack about his van engined Land Rover without flaps!! His leaks too!! As for the re power... Use the kiss theory! If your engine is good, why change it? If you are going for the sound and power of the TdV6, you'd b better putting that in a shorty so you can really have some fun!!;).

[chewy7]

I'm not sure I understand. You have a 300tdi with only 70k km since being rebuilt, and all it needs is a new clutch (~$500-1k to pay someone to do).

Why the switch to auto?

The TDV6 option will be expensive. I think the standalone computer is ~$10k alone!

The auto because its just a bit easier from a touring point of view, and it's been given great reviews by members here.

The possible engine swap, more power as I do tow a few cars here and there. Td5 would come in handy then! :-D

[LowRanger]

Hi lads,
And attempt to get the dents sorted and paint the 130 in Santorini Black.

Cheers,
Shane

Why????:eek: In a hot climate,would anyone want to paint a vehicle black.Never mind a 4WD and especially a Defender:confused:

[strangy]

So Pics:rulez:
You have seen my 130 rebuild coming along. I have a few pics coming soon on my efforts to ensure a dry cab. With the time and space you cant beat the ease of repairing, prepping and painting with the thing in pieces.

Keep the vents, fit new seals.

Id use that 300tdi till it stopped before changing engines.

[vnx205]

I'm under the impression that's where my water leaks are from? :-D

I suppose it is possible, but I think they are more likely to be coming from elsewhere.

[redrovertdi]

Tune the 300tdi with a bigger intercooler and "maybe " a turbo upgrade, definately do the auto swap zf4hp22[done in a day if your keen] and change the transfer for the disco item at the same time for relaxed highway miles-did all that on mine- i do around 1000ks a week as its my work vehicle. If its a roughy its going to look a lot worse in stinking hot black and will be even worse with welded up vents--dont do it!

[Disco4_tech]

Convert to an auto and spend thousands and thousands of dollars all because a manual is too hard to tour in?

Where did we all go soft?

I'm so confused !

[Slunnie]

Convert to an auto and spend thousands and thousands of dollars all because a manual is too hard to tour in?

Where did we all go soft?

I'm so confused !

Am I the only one who sees some irony here. :p

[chewy7]

Why????:eek: In a hot climate,would anyone want to paint a vehicle black.Never mind a 4WD and especially a Defender:confused:

Haha i did think of that, and black cars are an absolute pain. But its one of things that i've always wanted. A black defender!

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/05/768.jpg



So Pics:rulez:
You have seen my 130 rebuild coming along. I have a few pics coming soon on my efforts to ensure a dry cab. With the time and space you cant beat the ease of repairing, prepping and painting with the thing in pieces.

Keep the vents, fit new seals.

Id use that 300tdi till it stopped before changing engines.

I'll get some up asap. Yes i saw your thread, amazing job you are doing! And i will strip the thing right down and start up a new build thread when i get working.

Keeping the vents does sound like a good idea now i guess! Will source some new seals and try sikaflex all the other possible areas of water flow :D



Tune the 300tdi with a bigger intercooler and "maybe " a turbo upgrade, definately do the auto swap zf4hp22[done in a day if your keen] and change the transfer for the disco item at the same time for relaxed highway miles-did all that on mine- i do around 1000ks a week as its my work vehicle. If its a roughy its going to look a lot worse in stinking hot black and will be even worse with welded up vents--dont do it!

Sounds like a good idea, i've been trying to source an auto box from a 300tdi and it seems rather difficult. I found one bloke on gumtree with a disco 1 with a blown head gasket. 300,000km on the clock and he wanted $1,000 for the box alone. I have seen written off cars with less km's go for $500-600 in the auctions. So its a matter of waiting or pickup the TD5 disco auto going in the auctions this week! haha.




Convert to an auto and spend thousands and thousands of dollars all because a manual is too hard to tour in?

Where did we all go soft?

I'm so confused !


Well i'm on a students budget! Not going to be thousands and thousands, that's for sure! haha. Will wait for a write off at the right price ;)

[strangy]

If you decide to ditch the vents, I would opt for Urethane. It will seal and bond the flaps permanently but also give you the opportunity to re instate them if you change your mind.

[chris_mack]

I bought a disco 1 autobox and transfer for $200 a couple of years ago, never ended up using it so stuck it on ebay 6 month later and got $350 for it.. they are out there cheap just gota wait for someone whos not greedy!

[Dougal]

New (to you) defender and you want to spend thousands swapping the gearbox to auto and then painting it black?

I suggest you keep those thousands for the surprises the previous owner was trying to hide from you. Get the clutch fixed, install boost and EGT gauges and go from there.

[vnx205]

Keeping the vents does sound like a good idea now i guess!

Yes, that way with the black point job, it will only be unbearably hot inside during a Brisbane summer when you first get in.

After you have driven for half an hour or so with the vents wide open, the temperature will merely be uncomfortable rather than intolerable. :D:D:D

[chewy7]

I bought a disco 1 autobox and transfer for $200 a couple of years ago, never ended up using it so stuck it on ebay 6 month later and got $350 for it.. they are out there cheap just gota wait for someone whos not greedy!

That's an awesome price! I'll keep an eye out!





New (to you) defender and you want to spend thousands swapping the gearbox to auto and then painting it black?

I suggest you keep those thousands for the surprises the previous owner was trying to hide from you. Get the clutch fixed, install boost and EGT gauges and go from there.

Don't really have thousands to spend, as i said earlier, i will be doing all the work, including the painting :)





Yes, that way with the black point job, it will only be unbearably hot inside during a Brisbane summer when you first get in.

After you have driven for half an hour or so with the vents wide open, the temperature will merely be uncomfortable rather than intolerable. :D:D:D


haha i imagine it will be very hot! But you guys can call me crazy, i'll attempt to get the original A/C up and running. :eek: :D


Here are some pics of Bender:


https://www.aulro.com/afvb/
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https://www.aulro.com/afvb/


Cheers,
Shane

[Bushie]

Looks like it spent a lot of its life on the beach.

Welding the vents shut will only maginally assist in keeping water 'in', it won't help keeping it out :D:D.

The vents, as others have said, are one of the best bits on a Landy.


Martyn

[RVR110]

Hi Shane,

If the vents leak then just replace the seals. If you don't like them open then just keep them closed. There's little point in welding them shut when there's a lever that will do it for you - it allows you to change your mind later as you might think differently about it next summer.

Looking at the photos you've got a lot of other things that should take priority over black paint, converting to an auto or installing a larger engine. Consider starting with securing the battery in place, then move on to ensuring reliability and rectifying any structurally significant rust. As an aside, I'd be concerned that the engine needed to be rebuilt after only 124,000Km - if you don't already have the details then perhaps MR can fill you in.

It sounds like you've got a DIY disposition, so the car can give you many years of enjoyment and a lot of satisfaction. Welcome to the forum and enjoy the ride!

[jboot51]

Where about in Brisbane are you ?.
If you need any pointers just yell out.
I've spent 6 months on my 95 model replacing most things.

Bender doesn't seem too bad from the photos.
I've seen worse.

Cheers,
Tony

[chewy7]

Looks like it spent a lot of its life on the beach.

Welding the vents shut will only maginally assist in keeping water 'in', it won't help keeping it out :D:D.

The vents, as others have said, are one of the best bits on a Landy.


Martyn

I'd say it has, i have a feeling the owner had another house on Stradbroke island.

And i'm sure i'll be keeping the vents now :-)



Hi Shane,

If the vents leak then just replace the seals. If you don't like them open then just keep them closed. There's little point in welding them shut when there's a lever that will do it for you - it allows you to change your mind later as you might think differently about it next summer.

Looking at the photos you've got a lot of other things that should take priority over black paint, converting to an auto or installing a larger engine. Consider starting with securing the battery in place, then move on to ensuring reliability and rectifying any structurally significant rust. As an aside, I'd be concerned that the engine needed to be rebuilt after only 124,000Km - if you don't already have the details then perhaps MR can fill you in.

It sounds like you've got a DIY disposition, so the car can give you many years of enjoyment and a lot of satisfaction. Welcome to the forum and enjoy the ride!

One of the major good points about the car is, that it has had a new chassis fitted and by MR automotive too. The chassis is clean of any rust and in excellent condition.

So most of my work will focus around the rust in the doors and bulk head. And i'm only looking at an auto box because the clutch has worn out. So i may as well fit an auto box instead of putting a manual back in there :)

And yeah, i've restored a few cars, so DIY is the way to go! :D

Depending on which donor car i purchase, which is either a disco 1 auto or disco 2 auto at this stage :D

Thanks, there is an absolute wealth of knowledge on this forum! Just going through each thread one at a time. :D

[Disco4_tech]

Am I the only one who sees some irony here. :p

I don't own a disco 4, never will :p

[chewy7]

Where about in Brisbane are you ?.
If you need any pointers just yell out.
I've spent 6 months on my 95 model replacing most things.

Bender doesn't seem too bad from the photos.
I've seen worse.

Cheers,
Tony

Thanks tony! I'm at cannon hill. Sure, will do!

[schuy1]

Seen a lot worse Defeers. Yours is a little rough but given its age it is good a good base platform to work with. I would not be throwing bits off or welding them up, just do the priority which is rust and the clutch and even the rust does not look real bad for a beach car. The TDi will give years of service yet, Mine is 310000kms and still good :)
Touring? Most 'Touring' is open road anyway and you dont change gears much I find. Cheers Scott

[isuzurover]

Aside from the temperature issues, black is the worst colour for showing imperfections. You will need to spend a lot of time getting the panels perfect before painting, otherwise you will see every minor blemish in the panels and original paint, and you will be unhappy with the result.

Autos are great for llow speed offroading and stop-start traffic. IME the are no advantage when (long distance) touring as you hardly ever change gears.
Autos also run hotter when towing and have a shorter life between rebuilds.

As far as engine choice, an Isuzu (4BD1T/4HE1-TC) or a TD5 would be the only engines I would consider.