View Full Version : OIL CHANG ON TD5
worane
12th May 2013, 04:22 PM
Today I was doing an oil change on the td5.when I was undoing the two bolts on the metal covered secondary oil filter I managed to undo the bolt too far and when I removed the top one bolt fell down behind the filter bowl.
My question is, if I unbolt the bowl can I retrieve the bolt or would it be better to just buy a new one.
Secondly can one buy said bolt on it's own?
I'm not sure if undoing the three bolts will allow me to free up the bolt , or is it more difficult?
any advice would be most welcome.
Regards.Nick.
mattyg
12th May 2013, 04:42 PM
Try a magnetic pick up stick. If that doesnt get it Just get a new M6 bolt- a generic one will do.
Ps don't over tighten (10nm) as the thread in the filter housing strips VERY easily
CountP
12th May 2013, 08:01 PM
I would just leave it there it can't do any harm.
Like Matt said just replace with another bolt. I fitted slightly longer bolts as the thread on mine were damaged.
Disco Muppet
12th May 2013, 09:18 PM
Ps don't over tighten (10nm) as the thread in the filter housing strips VERY easily
I couldn't even get mine to 10nm today without them making noises that didn't sound nice.
John W
12th May 2013, 10:06 PM
Common (forced) mod is to do a thread recoil. If the bolts are not biting like normal, then suggest you fix it prior to finding your oil pouring out behind you on the highway
Disco Muppet
12th May 2013, 10:35 PM
They were plenty tight enough.
Just wasn't getting to 10nm
worane
13th May 2013, 09:29 PM
Thanks every one got a new bolt today, all good.
Ollie
13th May 2013, 11:43 PM
I am doing a filter & oil change at the weekend. I used the 1/4" drive socket and wrench to tighten the filter housing bolts last time, less likely to suffer from 'That can't be tight enough syndrome '. I intend to get a low range torque wrench as the one I have has 10nm on the scale but it is right at the lowest of a wide range. Most torque settings are for oiled threads. I will check the length of the bolts to the thread available and change them if there is unused thread.
Regards Ollie
eckolsim
14th May 2013, 12:00 AM
From personal experience, you loose a lot of oil if the threads go!
Get a helicoil kit, and a long 1/4" drill (it helps in reaching the holes without having to disassemble too much as they are deep and awkward) and fit the helicoils in comfort at home. It's not hard and much easier that trying a bush fix on the side of the road.
I paid about $30 for a M6 kit.
simonmelb
15th May 2013, 10:05 PM
. I intend to get a low range torque wrench .
Regards Ollie
Hi Ollie,
No need to buy an expensive torque wrench - I use one of these $6-90 scales:
Buy 1.5" LCD Double Precision Portable Digital Electronic Weighting Hook Scale (45kg Max) (http://dx.com/p/1-5-lcd-double-precision-portable-digital-electronic-weighting-hook-scale-45kg-max-35716)
.. pulling laterally on the end of my socket bar. Set the scale to Lb, measure the lenght of the socket bar to correct as a proportion of 1 Ft, and you're away. This model is accurate to 5g, so you wont rip the threads out of your rotor filter housing.
Cheers
Simon
BennehBoy
15th May 2013, 11:04 PM
If you are unfortunate enough to strip the threads don't bother helicoiling or timsert'ing, just fit much longer bolts, they will go right through the housing and protrude beneath, you can then just add a nyloc nut to each...
A lot simpler, and highly effective.
justinc
15th May 2013, 11:28 PM
Agreed, the fact is that the original bolts only pick up a 3rd of the available thread just fit longer bolts. i rarely ever have to helicoil.
a bit of advice too, use a 1/4 drive ratchet and only use 1 hand to do them up, there is no need to be a gorilla it won't leak if tightened gently the o ring seals just fine with minimal bolt tension.
jc
djam1
16th May 2013, 08:43 PM
I have put some screws in mine so I can only do it up with a screw driver
That way you or the knuckle dragging mechanic doesn't over tighten them and strip them
(Sorry Justin)
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