View Full Version : Rust
Boony73
13th May 2013, 11:30 PM
Found a rust hole the size of a 50 cent peice during the annual rego check after a bit of clean up it is a fair bit bigger, is there repair sections available for the passenger foot well area?
isuzurover
14th May 2013, 06:28 AM
Found a rust hole the size of a 50 cent peice during the annual rego check after a bit of clean up it is a fair bit bigger, is there repair sections available for the passenger foot well area?
Just buy some sheet steel and make it yourself. That is what a panel beater would do.
roverrescue
14th May 2013, 06:43 AM
Or perhaps buy a sheet of Lexan and a tube of Sikka... how good would that be for wheel placement ;)
Can I quietly suggest while you are cutting rust to check your chassis to body mounts
Especially the ones just inboard of your fred flinstone modification.
S
Boony73
15th May 2013, 09:14 PM
Just buy some sheet steel and make it yourself. That is what a panel beater would do.
I have some sheet I was just being lazy:p
Or perhaps buy a sheet of Lexan and a tube of Sikka... how good would that be for wheel placement ;)
Can I quietly suggest while you are cutting rust to check your chassis to body mounts
Especially the ones just inboard of your fred flinstone modification.
I gave that mount a good looking over on the weekend as well as the sill and surrounds and it is all good as far as I can tell, I did find some more on the RH sill in front of the rear tyre I haven't had a chance to clean it up to see how bad it is.
Boony73
15th May 2013, 09:30 PM
Mind you I have nothing on this poor bloke
Discovery 300 TDi rustbuster - YouTube
roverrescue
15th May 2013, 09:51 PM
That little dink in the folded seam is the nemesis in a disco floor pan
A whiles back I tried to tell the D1 list that hard used D1s fail there body mounts regularly
Peoples said I was a dreamer. Your photo is the tip off a failing floor pan / body mount
Get your biggest ugliest mate to jump up and down on the body above that mount and watch the happy happy joy joy.
D1 body to chassis mounts are a weak spot. Chase em fix em chase em fix em. Or just ignore them and pretend
Steve
Chivalry
15th May 2013, 10:05 PM
D1 floor is the same as RRC floor isn't it? Paddocks have RRC footwell sections for £32+VAT.
I agree with Isuzurover, DIY.
Tank
16th May 2013, 01:33 PM
You realise that any replacement panels/sheet metal has to be fully seam welded, not pop- riveted like yours is, have you got a MIG welder? Regards Frank.
Boony73
16th May 2013, 03:52 PM
You realise that any replacement panels/sheet metal has to be fully seam welded, not pop- riveted like yours is, have you got a MIG welder? Regards Frank.
Hi frank
I don't know where you are seeing the pop rivets as I haven't started the repair yet, I will most likely start this weekend. I don't have a mig welder but I do have a arc welder with a lift tig function (it is a uni-mig 140), I'm still working out which method I'm going to use. Either way I will have to learn to either mig-welding, I have done a little bit in the past or tig welding, no experience to speak of but I have 15+ years of soldering on aircraft components plus a friend who is a welder willing to show me the ropes.
Tank
16th May 2013, 08:34 PM
My mistake they are self tapping screws, they looked like rivets, turned into a decent size hole, try making a template out of stiff cardboard sheet, tape it on from underneath and spray some paint around the edges to give you a neat fitting profile and then (with mIG welder) tack it every couple of inches all the way round and then fill weld between the tacks, do one short bit then the next opposite to cut down on distortion, good luck, some pics when finished, Regards Frank.
Boony73
16th May 2013, 10:19 PM
My mistake they are self tapping screws, they looked like rivets, turned into a decent size hole, try making a template out of stiff cardboard sheet, tape it on from underneath and spray some paint around the edges to give you a neat fitting profile and then (with mIG welder) tack it every couple of inches all the way round and then fill weld between the tacks, do one short bit then the next opposite to cut down on distortion, good luck, some pics when finished, Regards Frank.
No self tappers either if you are refering to the areas circled in red they are the spot welds the shadows and angle of the photo make them appear deeper than they actually are. Thanks for the cardboard tip I was going to do something similar but using paint makes more sense.
Tank
17th May 2013, 01:46 AM
Sorry again, I could have sworn they were screws or rivets,Regards frank.
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