130 suspension

[c.h.i.e.f]

Hi guys this has most likely been discussed before however I am going to ask again :angel:

I just got my new 130 and after having 3 110 wagons a ute is a whole new thing to me.
I notice 2 main things between the 130 and the wagons the 130 steers a bit different when cornering at higher speeds and also the ride is a tad more harsh than the wagon not by much but it is.
This car is mainly going to be used for long trips out west covering a mix of dirt roads at high speed,asphalt at high speed and numerous crop paddocks at a reasonable speed.
What I do not like is the use of the words "heavy duty" in regards to suspension as that is all I find suspension places telling me to buy and I do not warrant the use of HD suspension as the ride comfort is not what I like.

I am removing the tub and making a steel tray,60L fuel tank,40L water tank,dog crate say 25kg plus 100kg of dogs,usual camping gear say 60kg.

What I was thinking is a 2" lift with what rate springs though to keep a nice soft ride whilst unloaded ? As its not that much weight really so could I get away with standard 2" rear springs from a 110 ?
With shocks I was considering buying bilstien's but don't really want to buy standard run of the mill ones but was instead looking towards something such as some 7100's but at what travel and what valving for my needs I have no idea ?

[roverrescue]

Chief,

As a 130 owner who on light trips would carry your load and on heavy trips double or triple it.

Lose the inner springs - install polyairs in their place.
The ride will be a tonne more compliant and less harsh - it will actually sag LESS with the poly airs than the 180lb/in inners and a load on board.

Longer dampers will also remove some of the harshness as at unloaded weights and standard shocks there is less than an inch or so of down travel...

Once you have a settled setup you will experience just how good that extra 17" of wheel base is on broken roads... a 130 floats over stuff that 100s and 110s get a little twitchy on.

I would also say, only lift it if you want to run bigger rubber than 255/85s.
Standard height just works

S

[Expedition 130]

Have you thought about changing to air springs at the rear, they allow you to adjust the ride quality depending on how much weight you have on the back. Quite a bit of information available on here.

[chewy7]

I've got a steel tray off my 130 and looking for a tub if you're interested. Just a pitty you're in Sydney.

[Sitec]

Hi. Good choice of vehicle! I have lifted the rear of mine by 40mm but only to disguise the 285 tires. The front went up by 75mm. I made heavy duty spacers as I was happy with the STD ride, but don't like the low nose stance of 110's and 130's. As said before, remove the inner spring and replace with an assisted air bag. This gives you the softer ride when traveling light, but the option to inflate the bag when laden. If you go for just air bags, should one rupture you have little options but to stop. (not sure how common this is but I wouldn't want to find out in the middle of whoop whoop!). :) Pic enclosed of SWIMBO and I on the roof of ours taking photo's in the High Country... Our traveling companions thought it amusing!! The tray is missing its headboard as we have the detachable body back in camp on its legs!! 'Detachable camp body' in projects and tutorials if ya want more tray/body ideas.

[c.h.i.e.f]

Thanks for the replies guys very helpful indeed....
Unfortunately I am making a custom tray with a mate sorry :(.
Nice looking tray sitec looks mint :BigThumb: only thing I would need to add would be a head board as it would be a must with my hobby...I am running 285/75/16 neg25's and have noticed the front is considerably low so would like to rectify...I was considering running 2" lift maybe even flexi coils but compensate for when I load it up by installing load assist bags in the rear...
I am loving this 130 I looked at a cruiser v8 duel cab but just could not bring myself to driving a 2013 model car that's 20k dearer and still has leaf springs :eek: it goes better than the 2.4 ever did and I cannot wait to get it setup correctly for big trips.
Ill post pics up one day :D

[Sitec]

Hi c.h.i.e.f, here's a pic of the nose of mine... This is with 285's and 75mm/3" lift. Just gives you an idea what yours might look like. I have a headboard that usually lives on the tray, but these pics were taken when we were on holiday with the detachable camp body so the headboard stays at home.

[newhue]

I agree with roverrescue. You're only looking at 450-550kg total tray and load. So standard coils will work fine. 130 outers are the same as 110 outers, it's the inner that bumps the pay load up.
Rear coils are 320Lb per inch, inners are 140Lb per inch. They don't increase as compressed.

If you want/like standard ride but higher Les Richmond can custom wind coils for you. I have purple in the front to cope with bbar and bits, and 2" custom orange green on the rear with standard inners. But you will need to lower bumps, and longer travel shocks.

The car rides nice at full payload 1.5T, and I'm happy with it empty. But empty is also 300kg static tray with add ons.

[c.h.i.e.f]

Hi c.h.i.e.f, here's a pic of the nose of mine... This is with 285's and 75mm/3" lift. Just gives you an idea what yours might look like. I have a headboard that usually lives on the tray, but these pics were taken when we were on holiday with the detachable camp body so the headboard stays at home.

That looks nice how it sits...with a 3" lift did you notice a difference in steering ? Did it start to wander ? A DC front prop shaft would most likely be a must ?

[c.h.i.e.f]

I agree with roverrescue. You're only looking at 450-550kg total tray and load. So standard coils will work fine. 130 outers are the same as 110 outers, it's the inner that bumps the pay load up.
Rear coils are 320Lb per inch, inners are 140Lb per inch. They don't increase as compressed.

If you want/like standard ride but higher Les Richmond can custom wind coils for you. I have purple in the front to cope with bbar and bits, and 2" custom orange green on the rear with standard inners. But you will need to lower bumps, and longer travel shocks.

The car rides nice at full payload 1.5T, and I'm happy with it empty. But empty is also 300kg static tray with add ons.

Thanks :)
I will look into it...I'm lost as to how to order the correct shocks though

[Sitec]

The wandering is no worse than normal, which got a lot better recently when I replaced the drop arm ball joint! Still running standard prop, and the only vibration I get is a light shimmer at about 45kph.. Other than that, nothing. I did make the front wedges with a taper so the spring plates are still in line with the chassis plates too.

[c.h.i.e.f]

The wandering is no worse than normal, which got a lot better recently when I replaced the drop arm ball joint! Still running standard prop, and the only vibration I get is a light shimmer at about 45kph.. Other than that, nothing. I did make the front wedges with a taper so the spring plates are still in line with the chassis plates too.

Oh ok interesting...any pics of under the front of yours to illustrate how you've made them ? :D

[Sitec]

Sure. Here's the front.... Two pieces of 75 x 50 channel with the edges trimmed to suit your desired height then welded together. The top piece has a hole punched in the center for shocker bolting as well as being drilled to take the spring disk. The edges of the channel are then trimmed to alow the disk to drop on giving it matching surface area to the original plate. I also punched the bottom plate in the center, but then re welded the slug back into the hole but protruding out below 4 mm to locate into the original shocker hole. Remember to also make a spacer plate for the anti roll bar as it will touch the prop.

[Sitec]

And here is the rear. Another piece of 75 x 50 channel, with the sides trimmed down to 40mm instead of 50mm. A piece of 6mm plate is then welded in between the channel flush with the top of the sides. Weld continuously on top and as far in as you can get underneath the top plate. Drill through both top and bottom plates to suit the original holes. I've also welded two tubes in these to stop it crushing as you can use longer bolts and go through the spring disk, the new spacer and the original mounting plate on the axle. These also help with its rigidity. You also have to buy longer rear shocks to suit as they mount to the axle. I extended mine but they are both tired and there are new ones on their way!

[c.h.i.e.f]

Thanks for that very helpful :)

[roverrescue]

Sitec,
A few questions if I may!
I like how you have angled the front coil perch to compensate for the -ve castor. Did you bother extending the length of the lower link (hockey stick)?
Have you set the spring perch angle such that at full compression the upper and lower perches are parrallel?
Did you space your bump stop down 75mm as well?
Do you find that on fast broken roads you crash the coils??

Also out of interest what rear dampers did you change up to?

Regards,

Steve

[Sitec]

Hi roverrescue.
1. The lower link/hockey stick stayed the same. Over that distance the axle would have hardly moved back at all...
2. The perches are level when the vehicle load is on the spring on flat ground. I figured this was best as this is where it spends most of its time... This means that the lower perch is slightly lent back when fully loaded in a cross axle position...
3. Not yet. I spaced the anti roll bar down with a piece of 25 x 50 with the ends capped. As this is further back, there is less travel.. I have not managed to introduce the bar to the prop... Yet!
4. Not sure what you are meaning by 'crash the coils'. By fitting spacers under the coils, and bump stops, you are in effect lowering the axle. As the shock and spring sits atop the spacer, they are still running at their original height and in original positions, so should (like originally) never be able to be coil bound.
5. Re the rear dampers, the originals were Monroe so I was able to unscrew the eye, and extend the original top fitting by 40mm and screw it back on. Both rears are tired and one has started to weep, so I'm going to replace them with two heavy duty shocks to suit a 130 with 2" rear lift. This will also negate extending the bump stops.


Just another point that I've remembered. The original springs sagged to the left, Land Rover trait..., I bought a set of "super Ebay 2" lift specials"..... They sagged to the left and were 10mm lower than the originals!!! Buy cheep buy twice!!! So, I actually had another RH original spring. I fitted this to the LHS when fitting the spacers so run spacers and two RH springs on the front axle. The truck sits virtually level when in std tray form and a little lower to the rear with the camp body on. Much better IMO... Photo of it laden with body, food, beer, all SWIMBO's essentials etc etc at Bonney Doon on the way to Vic!

[c.h.i.e.f]

Sitec,
A few questions if I may!
I like how you have angled the front coil perch to compensate for the -ve castor. Did you bother extending the length of the lower link (hockey stick)?
Have you set the spring perch angle such that at full compression the upper and lower perches are parrallel?
Did you space your bump stop down 75mm as well?
Do you find that on fast broken roads you crash the coils??

Also out of interest what rear dampers did you change up to?

Regards,

Steve
I done roughly the same with my 110 but not as neat as sitec's...
Its good as it places less stress on specifically the leading side of the spring but the ride felt a bit twitchy compared to buying a longer spring..
As for radius rods being extended that will introduce more troubles than I would like to contend with on a tourer.
My 110 with 4" coils had shocking steering and tracked all over the joint..

[roverrescue]

My thought was if you hadnt extended bump stops, then the the incidence of crashing the coils should theoretically increase. My front coils of two different flavours have always been well polished lets say.

Personally, when I set up coil trailers I run the perches parralell when at full bump. That is the time when load is greatest and misalignment of force most magnified. Most likely makes no great difference.

Reason I wondered why you might have extended the arms is that even with a very moderate lift that I have, there is an axle perch to chassis horizontal mis-alignment?

All good thanks for filling me in!

S