Anybody got a Lightweight?

[UncleHo]

As the title says, has anybody on here got a Lightweight?


cheers

[juddy]

You Shopping?:D

[DieselDan]

As the title says, has anybody on here got a Lightweight?


cheers

Yup!
Its in storage back in the mother country though.
I'll save enough eventually (or sell a kidney or something...) to bring it over.
I do miss it :(

[UncleHo]

G'day Juddy & Diesel Dan

No Justin,I have one,a 1980 Series 3 24volt FFR.it just needs a little TLC and a few nick-naks the Management is not overly impressed but I think she will come to like it after she travels in it a few times as she used to enjoy the 2a which was the daily driver for many years,it is now on historic rego.


cheers

[Dinty]

Don't worry about the management issues up there, just PM me your address and I will come and take it away for you, thereby keeping the peace at your place ;);):p, well hurry up I've got the 110 fuelled up n ready to go LOL, only trying to help out mate, cheers Dennis:angel:

[incisor]

Don't worry about the management issues up there, just PM me your address and I will come and take it away for you, thereby keeping the peace at your place ;);):p, well hurry up I've got the 110 fuelled up n ready to go LOL, only trying to help out mate, cheers Dennis:angel:

it's a nice looking piece of kit too dennis, you'll love it :D:D:D:D:D:D

[UncleHo]

G'day Dennis

Sorry, but it is not going anywhere,she will eventually calm down,besides she has got the caravan we bought to do regional dog obedience trials,a nice light well kept 13.5 ft Millard,it only weighs 750kg it will beat having to drive home,we can then come home the following morning,something which is handy now that I am an old F---- t.


How are you and the family including the patrol Poodles.


cheers
Kevin & Sue

[Dinty]

The 'Poodle Patrol' are fine so is swmbo, have just finished refurb on our bedroom (thank ****** whoever), you need to post few images of said vehicle Uncle, they are nice little trucks, almost as good as a gunbuggy LOL cheers Dennis

[juddy]

Now that would be fun Gun :cool:buggy V Light weigh.

[Landy Smurf]

Good on you Uncle Ho.
I can't weight to see it :p

[Jondavball]

Sure do, a 1973 SIII 12v (10FM08). It did start life as a 24v FFR but at some time in its distant past was converted.

I picked it up a couple of years ago and started a top to bottom restoration about 8 months ago. Probably about half way through.

[UncleHo]

G'day Jondavball

That would be a Rover1 being an early Series 3, mine is an 1980 I have not got it's full MOD rego yet but I know what contract it came from,and the first and middle 16 HG from 40 to 84 I have somebody in the UK checking for me,I think it may be 57.




cheers

[Jondavball]

I am looking forward to getting 'Nelson' on the road by next Easter with the intent, although unlikely, of taking him to Melrose. His body work is pretty beat up but I am hoping a hammer will fix it.

As you can see he spent his service life in Hong Kong but I don't know when he came to Australia.

Jonathan

[123rover50]

Well done Unk.

BUT

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/05/457.jpg

:D:D:D

Keith

[UncleHo]

G'day Keith

Haven't got around to taking pics of it yet,worked hard to get it clean enough to take to Land & Air show at "Emu Gully" near Helidon as part of the Jeep Club display,I will endeavour to get pics after I fit the radio tuning boxes back on the front wings (guards) it runs well a very different ride to a LWB quite choppy, but love it!!


Kevin

[Jondavball]

I have never driven mine as the clutch and brakes weren't working when I got it. Engine does run nicely though, or so it sounded in the 5 minutes I had it going before I started stripping him down.

My desire for a lightweight far outweighed the practicalities of it needing to be running or the cost of replcement parts. It will turn out to be a very expensive desire and frankly I should have stuck to a standard SWB but I am sure it will be worth it in the end.

It will be deseret coloured when its finished.

[incisor]

a very different ride to a LWB quite choppy, but love it!!

says he who was all cramped up, on top of a hill overlooking helidon :D:D

now you know why i like my parabolics ;)

[RobHay]

Oh....is that a lightweight that you have stashed up in the corner, on the right........near the road.

I thought that you might have been wrecking a landy...:p

[3toes]

For those who are not in on this a 'file' copy photo of a light weight. These will have to do until the photos of the actual vehicle are posted.

[123rover50]

[QUOTE=RobHay;1915264]Oh....is that a lightweight that you have stashed up in the corner, on the right........near the road.

I thought that you might have been wrecking a landy...:p[/QUOTE.

I was going to ask Ho where you were.
Been missing your humerous stories:D

[UncleHo]

G'day Rob Hay

Yup! That's it,why didn't you call in? I might even have made a coffee/tea for the tired traveller,I will be busy over the next few days catching up on jobs around the house,but when I come into town I will ring nd check what you are up to.


cheers

[UncleHo]

G'day 3toes

Thanks for the pics,the first one shows the bridge weight place in the same position but without the Union Jack,and that one has both front lights as plastic lens,where mine has plastic indicators and glass Parker lens,the second pic looks very like mine which also has the tuning boxes and antenna,but not the cammo just plain Olivedra, NATO green.




cheers

[DieselDan]

I'll dig out a pic of mine too and post it up tomorrow.
Dan.

[DieselDan]

Here's mine.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/05/333.jpg

It's long since had any pretense of being original :D
It was demobbed (or whatever the vehicular equivalent is!) in 1980, so it's had over 30 year in the civilian world.
Once upon a time it was a 24V FFR in the RAF, but was already converted to 12V when I got it and had a standard S3 hardtop.

...and yes, I know it has a S2 bulkhead vent surround, they were only about 200quid at the time I replaced the original, S3 ones were over 600quid :o

It used to be my daily driver, but I completely rebuilt it and semi-retired it for use on 'sunny' days, hence the truck cab soft top.

Dan

[DieselDan]

Thread resurrection alert!!

The time has come for me to finally import my Lightweight (I hope to hell it's still in as good a condition as it looks in the photo above - I haven't seen it in nearly 5 years!)

Anyway in due course I'll be tapping up fellow lightweight owners, Alien and Goingbush and others! for some refreshers on what to expect, but in the meantime I'm asking for importation help.

I've read and reread the importation process, so I'm pretty sure I know what steps are needed, but my question is does anyone have any recommendations on companies to use (or not use) for the shipping?

I've got a few quotes, including a variety of options of sole container or shared container, from a couple of shipping agents, but just wondered if anyone had any good/bad experiences that would give me others to look into?

Cheers.

[Tins]

Thread resurrection alert!!

The time has come for me to finally import my Lightweight (I hope to hell it's still in as good a condition as it looks in the photo above - I haven't seen it in nearly 5 years!)

Anyway in due course I'll be tapping up fellow lightweight owners, Alien and Goingbush and others! for some refreshers on what to expect, but in the meantime I'm asking for importation help.

I've read and reread the importation process, so I'm pretty sure I know what steps are needed, but my question is does anyone have any recommendations on companies to use (or not use) for the shipping?

I've got a few quotes, including a variety of options of sole container or shared container, from a couple of shipping agents, but just wondered if anyone had any good/bad experiences that would give me others to look into?

Cheers.

Not 100%, but I believe Chops has one.

[goingbush]

Thread resurrection alert!!

The time has come for me to finally import my Lightweight (I hope to hell it's still in as good a condition as it looks in the photo above - I haven't seen it in nearly 5 years!)

Anyway in due course I'll be tapping up fellow lightweight owners, Alien and Goingbush and others! for some refreshers on what to expect, but in the meantime I'm asking for importation help.

I've read and reread the importation process, so I'm pretty sure I know what steps are needed, but my question is does anyone have any recommendations on companies to use (or not use) for the shipping?

I've got a few quotes, including a variety of options of sole container or shared container, from a couple of shipping agents, but just wondered if anyone had any good/bad experiences that would give me others to look into?

Cheers.

Maybe contact Anthony Johnson in Montrose (British 4WD imports) & see if he has a container coming this way.

Land Rover 101 - British 4wd's Contact details! (http://www.101spares.com/Contact.htm)

[UncleHo]

G'day

I sold my 1980 24V Lightweight last year,but it is still local,now owned by a friend, has been fitted with SWB hardtop looks good too it goes well as it has 4:1 diff centres in it ex-Rover sedan Ninety-110,criuses @ 80-90 kph without revving to hard.

cheers

[Steve269]

I’m happy to say that I am now the proud owner of Uncle Ho’s Lightweight.
I absolutely love it as do my children. It is one fun machine!

[goingbush]

I’m happy to say that I am now the proud owner of Uncle Ho’s Lightweight.
I absolutely love it as do my children. It is one fun machine!

Welcome to Lightweight ownership.

Ive owned about 15 LandRovers and the Lightweight is by far the most enjoyable.

if your on Farcebook .... Lightweight LandRovers in Australia public group | Facebook (https://www.facebook.com/groups/1682256445429387/)

[Steve269]

Hi Don, Steve Rovers here. I was planning on posting a photo of the Lightweight so those who know it from Facebook know who it is but I’m not in the best reception at the moment.

[goingbush]

Hi Don, Steve Rovers here. I was planning on posting a photo of the Lightweight so those who know it from Facebook know who it is but I’m not in the best reception at the moment.

Ahh Righto Steve, this one then !

https://scontent-syd2-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/39747713_10156695949071018_315909868416401408_n.jp g?_nc_cat=107&_nc_ht=scontent-syd2-1.xx&oh=9675495d74ecaabab5d6fb29c89ec137&oe=5D5B0734

[Steve269]

Ahh Righto Steve, this one then !

https://scontent-syd2-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/39747713_10156695949071018_315909868416401408_n.jp g?_nc_cat=107&_nc_ht=scontent-syd2-1.xx&oh=9675495d74ecaabab5d6fb29c89ec137&oe=5D5B0734

That’s the one, that’s a while ago.

[DieselDan]

It's on its way to Oz [emoji2]
I've managed to get it running and it's now on the way to the docks in Essex.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190729/2624ee3897e50e43e79a47e7beea1e8c.jpg

[goingbush]

It's on its way to Oz [emoji2]
I've managed to get it running and it's now on the way to the docks in Essex.

Nice Lightweight, looks like you've done a good job for our customs by removing every microscopic spec of dirt too. Not to mention, thats a good looking heavy duty trailer.
And got the vehicle lashed down correctly too, don't see that very often in the antipodes. [bigwhistle]

Whats with the extra alloy insert around the door glass ??

[Pedro_The_Swift]

Noob education question...(pretty sure Uncle Ho wont mind[wink11])

What was the original premise for Lightweights?

[87County]

Noob education question...(pretty sure Uncle Ho wont mind[wink11])

What was the original premise for Lightweights?

I understand it was to comply with the internal dimensional fit available in military aircraft of the era and heli-lift capabilities.

[DieselDan]

Nice Lightweight, looks like you've done a good job for our customs by removing every microscopic spec of dirt too. Not to mention, thats a good looking heavy duty trailer.
And got the vehicle lashed down correctly too, don't see that very often in the antipodes. [bigwhistle]

Whats with the extra alloy insert around the door glass ??Thanks!

It's not that clean close up!
Mainly covered in cobwebs that hopefully the drive to the docks has blown away.
I'm sure I'll still get stung for a steam clean at the least when it gets here.

The windows are self contained in that ally frame, just need riveting into the door top.
Saves the bother with all the original felt and green moss!
No idea what make they are, they were on the car when I bought it.
I'll post up some better pics if I can find any.

[DieselDan]

...double post

[alien]

Noob education question...(pretty sure Uncle Ho wont mind[wink11])

What was the original premise for Lightweights?


I understand it was to comply with the internal dimensional fit available in military aircraft of the era and heli-lift capabilities.
From Land Rover 1/2 ton Lightweight - Wikipedia (https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Land_Rover_1/2_ton_Lightweight)

In the early 1960s both the Royal Marines (https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Royal_Marines), then largely based aboard commando carriers (https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Amphibious_assault_ship), and the British Army (https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/British_Army) required a vehicle that could be carried by air. They had taken delivery of the Westland Wessex (https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Westland_Wessex) helicopter (https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Helicopter), which could carry a 2,500 lb (1,134 kg) load slung beneath.
The smallest Land Rover available at the time was a Series IIA 88 inch (2235 mm) wheelbase, which was too heavy. Land Rover began work on a lightweight version to fit the specifications in 1965.[1] (https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Land_Rover_1/2_ton_Lightweight#cite_note-MK147-1) A new modification to the basic Series IIA was devised by making many body components easily detachable and removing many non-essential items. The result was the Land Rover Half-Ton, known widely as the Lightweight or Airportable. In practice, to reduce weight sufficiently for the helicopters of the day to lift them in combat conditions, the tilt (roof) and sticks, the upper parts of the body, the doors and windscreen were removed, to be refitted later. The most significant change, however, was a reduction in width by 4 inch (100 mm), by redesigning the standard Series IIA axles and fitting shorter half-shafts, which meant it would fit on a standard pallet.
Complete, the Lightweight IIA weighed 2,650 lb (1,202 kg), over the specified weight. The term Lightweight appears misleading as a standard 88 Land Rover weighed 1,318 kg (2,906 lb), but the higher total weight was due to the various frame reinforcement required for military usage.[2] (https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Land_Rover_1/2_ton_Lightweight#cite_note-MK149-2) However, with the removable body panels taken-off it was below the limit. Since improvements to the helicopters meant more lift was available, the MoD (https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ministry_of_Defence_(United_Kingdom)) accepted it for use. The main applications were actually to be shipped by cargo aircraft or stacked on train wagons, with helicopter transport a rare occurrence.[1] (https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Land_Rover_1/2_ton_Lightweight#cite_note-MK147-1)
The first production models were completed on 11 November 1968, and production continued until 1984.

[alien]

Our 24volt fitted for radio on display and picture of interest.

[goingbush]

Yes its ironic that the "Lightweight" actually weighs more than a Civvy 88" . Ive not yet stripped mine down, be a good excersise now I that can weigh it before & after with my load cell.

[DieselDan]

It's on its way to Oz [emoji2]
I've managed to get it running and it's now on the way to the docks in Essex.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190729/2624ee3897e50e43e79a47e7beea1e8c.jpgThe ship it's on arrived yesterday.
I've been told the container should be unloaded/unpacked next week.
Getting excited [emoji2]

[DieselDan]

It's here [bigsmile]

[DieselDan]

So I've been trying to get a mate of mine, who is a VACC approved engineer, to come and have a look at the lightweight and tell me what it'd need to meet relevant ADRs.

Old Land Rovers aren't his usual thing, his business is more your custom hot rods, so he said he was going have to do some homework to find out what would apply. However, working on the assumption of vehicle class MC (off road) for 1975, it would need, amongst other things:

Inertia reel seat belts (already fitted);
Steel brake lines and new hoses (the lines in mine are copper and the rubber is knackered, so I was expecting this);
Reversing light activated by the gear lever;
Sun visors.

The last two might be a problem, although I suppose I could fashion a sun visor.
Which leaves the reversing light, which mine doesn't have.
Before I look into what I could possibly pinch from a civvy Series 3, what do other lightweight owners have fitted?

Did you have to get sun visors and reversing lights?
Or is there an exception that I could point my mate towards that would apply?

Cheers!

[goingbush]

So I've been trying to get a mate of mine, who is a VACC approved engineer, to come and have a look at the lightweight and tell me what it'd need to meet relevant ADRs.

Old Land Rovers aren't his usual thing, his business is more your custom hot rods, so he said he was going have to do some homework to find out what would apply. However, working on the assumption of vehicle class MC (off road) for 1975, it would need, amongst other things:

Inertia reel seat belts (already fitted);
Steel brake lines and new hoses (the lines in mine are copper and the rubber is knackered, so I was expecting this);
Reversing light activated by the gear lever;
Sun visors.

The last two might be a problem, although I suppose I could fashion a sun visor.
Which leaves the reversing light, which mine doesn't have.
Before I look into what I could possibly pinch from a civvy Series 3, what do other lightweight owners have fitted?

Did you have to get sun visors and reversing lights?
Or is there an exception that I could point my mate towards that would apply?

Cheers!
Went through this a few years ago.

No, you do not need Inertia Reel seatbelts, Lap Sash will be easier to pass. Whatever seat belts you use need the Australian Standards tag on them.

You do not need sun visors , you do need reversing light .

The hole is already in the gear stick bracket to add a reversing switch, I did not want to drill any holes so stuck a reversing light on the back with double sided tape.

Still there 3 years later.

https://scontent-syd2-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/53657229_2111459998935779_5048785175148756992_o.jp g?_nc_cat=110&cachebreaker=sd&_nc_oc=AQneog8Lcq1q04OlsjcVW6-En52jxWCJfXvL7ZrMquaYccI8OpYBvVejn87BnpGB-x4&_nc_ht=scontent-syd2-1.xx&oh=35a177cc08029d579d373a8878a47149&oe=5E1C637B

[DieselDan]

Thanks!
Just had a re-read of your thread in alternative energies, any chance you could pm me the name of the engineer who did your cert? I can ask my guy to cross check with him.
Also been looking at the wheels, studs,nuts thread (think that's what it's called!) in the Series 3 pinnacles and the conversation about tubes or tubeless.
Wheels on mine are original Lwt 5" (not 5.5) rims with no safety lip. I need new tyres anyway, but part of what my engineer was looking at was that I'd need 'safety rims' with the lip. I told him they run tubes anyway, which seemed to satisfy him, but if I'm going to fit new tyres anyway, I'd sooner go tubeless, but this then may create a circular argument with the RWC bloke when I try to get it rego'd....!

[goingbush]

Thanks!
Just had a re-read of your thread in alternative energies, any chance you could pm me the name of the engineer who did your cert? I can ask my guy to cross check with him.
Also been looking at the wheels, studs,nuts thread (think that's what it's called!) in the Series 3 pinnacles and the conversation about tubes or tubeless.
Wheels on mine are original Lwt 5" (not 5.5) rims with no safety lip. I need new tyres anyway, but part of what my engineer was looking at was that I'd need 'safety rims' with the lip. I told him they run tubes anyway, which seemed to satisfy him, but if I'm going to fit new tyres anyway, I'd sooner go tubeless, but this then may create a circular argument with the RWC bloke when I try to get it rego'd....!

I avoid Melbourne like the plague & only searched for country VASS inspectors.
had the original approval done by North East Engineering in Mt Beauty but he has fallen ill & no longer working. Blue plate for EV mods done by Peter Turner TechEd Teched Australia (https://techedaustralia.com.au) . He knows his stuff.

[DieselDan]

I avoid Melbourne like the plague & only searched for country VASS inspectors.
had the original approval done by North East Engineering in Mt Beauty but he has fallen ill & no longer working. Blue plate for EV mods done by Peter Turner TechEd Teched Australia (https://techedaustralia.com.au) . He knows his stuff.Thanks!

Ha, yeah Geelong is about as close to Melbourne as I like to get these days!

I'll ask my mate if he knows the guy from Mt Beauty.

[DieselDan]

It's been a while, so thought I'd post an update of what's happening.
In short, not a lot!
Been slow going trying to find the time to work on it. Managed a few days over the Christmas hols and over Aus day long w/e, but that's about it.

So..... jobs completed thus far:
New seat belts;
Reverse light activated with switch on the bottom of the gear stick.
Half completed brake pipe renewal.

The last one of those has turned into a bit of a saga. Mine has a dual master cylinder and a 5-way split pwda valve thingy.
A general search for series 3 dual master cylinder brake systems usually leads to 1980 twin leading shoe systems and a 4 way split pwda.
This got me scratching my head slightly and wondering if I had some bastardised brakes due to it being built in 1975 but then released into civilian world in 1980 and some previous owner fitting some weird brake combo.
Anyway further searching led me to find a reference to a 1975 optional equipment catalogue which had this pic of the brakes, which is exactly what I've got!

So, now knowing that the brakes seem to be correct (10" single leading shoe with dual master and 5-way pwda) I've got all new brake pipes bent and flared, bagged a new freebie pwda from the old man, fitted a new servo and am deciding whether to rebuild the master cyl or just get a new one! Wheel cylinders were new before it was in storage in the UK, but they're cheap enough so might replace them.
Then the fun job of bleeding the brakes and not getting the valve in the pwda to throw a wobbly begins!https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200206/23e0fb161c02c20d3ee64c9154261e8d.jpg

[alien]

It's been a while, so thought I'd post an update of what's happening.
In short, not a lot!
Been slow going trying to find the time to work on it. Managed a few days over the Christmas hols and over Aus day long w/e, but that's about it.

So..... jobs completed thus far:
New seat belts;
Reverse light activated with switch on the bottom of the gear stick.
Half completed brake pipe renewal.

The last one of those has turned into a bit of a saga. Mine has a dual master cylinder and a 5-way split pwda valve thingy.
A general search for series 3 dual master cylinder brake systems usually leads to 1980 twin leading shoe systems and a 4 way split pwda.
This got me scratching my head slightly and wondering if I had some bastardised brakes due to it being built in 1975 but then released into civilian world in 1980 and some previous owner fitting some weird brake combo.
Anyway further searching led me to find a reference to a 1975 optional equipment catalogue which had this pic of the brakes, which is exactly what I've got!

So, now knowing that the brakes seem to be correct (10" single leading shoe with dual master and 5-way pwda) I've got all new brake pipes bent and flared, bagged a new freebie pwda from the old man, fitted a new servo and am deciding whether to rebuild the master cyl or just get a new one! Wheel cylinders were new before it was in storage in the UK, but they're cheap enough so might replace them.
Then the fun job of bleeding the brakes and not getting the valve in the pwda to throw a wobbly begins!https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200206/23e0fb161c02c20d3ee64c9154261e8d.jpg
I made similar discoveries when doing the brakes on ours, a mix of Series2(imperial) at the wheels and Series3(metric) pipes ect.. made buying the rear flex hose interesting, the front is now civilian flex hoses.

[goingbush]

Mine is 1973 and has Dual circuit Master and PWDA as standard. The valve is just a shuttle valve to illuminate the dash lamp to let you know if one of the circuits is leaking. Not a bad idea.

Single leading 10" front and rear is standard on all lightweights.

[DieselDan]

Thanks fellas,

Glad I'm not the only one who struggled trying to get their head around this!

So the dual master, 5-way pdwa and 10" single drums seems standard on S3 Lightweights from '73 at least!

One more thing I've realised I need to do is move the rear number plate to the middle of the tailgate because we don't have square rego plates!

[DieselDan]

Thought it was way past due for an update, so here's what's what!

Number plate fixings and light are moved to the tailgate.
I was about to start bleeding the brakes weeks and weeks ago, but before I did, I just thought it was worthwhile double checking the brake cylinders.
Good job I did, two of the four leaked and one was seized solid!
So, all new cylinders and shoes and then start with the bleeding.
To my complete and utter surprise, this has seemingly gone without a hitch.
I've got a piece of clear tube with a one-way valve in the end, which I put in a jar, and attached the other end to each cylinder.
With the door off, this meant that I could push the pedal by hand and look at the tube to see when the bubbles stopped.
In amongst all of this, I discovered quite a lot of rot in the LHS door support pillar portion of the bulkhead, so I attended to this too.

Now that the things that my VASS engineer mate told me to sort are all finally fixed, today was the final inspection day and he's happy with my workmanship, hurrah! Even commenting what a top job I've done on the brake pipes.

So now it's on to getting it road worthy.
Looking at the state of things, there's 3 areas that I reckon will fail - leak at the back of the Tcase/hand brake drum, dodgy looking steering tie-rod end and rear tyres that are rock hard and cracked to buggery.

Trying to find tyres that I like is consuming more time than I thought!
The current rear tyres are original 205R16 Michelin XM+S from an old Rangie (one of each from the picture below) and the fronts are remoulds in a copy of the pattern on the right. I do like the look of these, almost kinda like rally cross tyres and even have holes in them for studs!
161171

Anyway, these are now unobtanium, although I have found that a company in the UK is remanufacturing the pattern on the right. For over 150 quid a pop!

Since I've got the original 5" wide Lightweight rims, I really need to keep to the 205R16 size, which limits the choice a bit.
But I have found these from Jax, which don't look too bad.
161172

Thoughts?

[DieselDan]

New canvas!
Needs a few sprinkles with the hose pipe to seal/season it up.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200530/23fd035ebdbaec0d03f1e41b9fa55da2.jpg

[alien]

New canvas!
Needs a few sprinkles with the hose pipe to seal/season it up.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200530/23fd035ebdbaec0d03f1e41b9fa55da2.jpg
Under Covers one?
I’ve been thinking of theirs for ours, getting a good reputation as they cut off the original pattern.

[DieselDan]

No, it's an Exmoor Trim one.
Never had an Undercover Covers one, so can't compare, but very happy with the quality of this one.
The parts place where I bought all the replacement plugs/leads/dizzy cap, fuel pump/filters etc. in order to get it running ready for export are also an Exmoor Trim dealer, so made sense just to get everything at once.

[DieselDan]

It lives!
Sort of.
Took it out for a spin ready for a roadworthy check, but I seem to have a fuel starvation issue and it conked out in the middle of a junction!
Typical.

After holding up an inconvenient amount of traffic, someone helped me push it to the side of the road and then gave us a tow!

[DieselDan]

Oh and does anyone have any military style side/indicator lights going spare?

I only realised why everyone was still coming right up behind me at the junction, even though I had the hazards on, was because the left rear indicator is cactus. Everyone thought I was still planning on turning right!

The metal internals inside the rubber housing have disintegrated!

[DieselDan]

Taken just prior to it failing to proceed...!https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200605/049bba9c2557a74e066a36d1b5253382.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200605/3d9ecac57b984be02018f4590df0cc7b.jpg

[DieselDan]

Need a bit of help.

Can't get to the bottom of (what I assume is) the fuel starvation issue.

Engine starts and idles fine and revs ok with no load.
It pulls away and accelerates in 1st up to 2nd but then starts coughing and spluttering and dies.
It won't get above about 20kph.

I need to go round checking everything again and rule out an electrickery problem, but plugs, leads, dizzy cap and coil are all new. Fitted just prior to import.
Fuel pump/glass bowl thingy is also new (blue box job, though) as is the filter just before the carb, which is a replacement weber.
The hand primer on the fuel pump works and I've made sure that petrol is getting up to the filter/carb, but then it's hard to check this once I start driving! I'm wondering if it's either sucking in air, or I've got a bit of dirt in somewhere.

It is possible that the petrol is a bit dodgy, it has been sat for a while, but I put 10 litres in a few days ago.

Any other ideas/suggestions for what I should check?

[goingbush]

Need a bit of help.

Can't get to the bottom of (what I assume is) the fuel starvation issue.

Engine starts and idles fine and revs ok with no load.
It pulls away and accelerates in 1st up to 2nd but then starts coughing and spluttering and dies.
It won't get above about 20kph.

I need to go round checking everything again and rule out an electrickery problem, but plugs, leads, dizzy cap and coil are all new. Fitted just prior to import.
Fuel pump/glass bowl thingy is also new (blue box job, though) as is the filter just before the carb, which is a replacement weber.
The hand primer on the fuel pump works and I've made sure that petrol is getting up to the filter/carb, but then it's hard to check this once I start driving! I'm wondering if it's either sucking in air, or I've got a bit of dirt in somewhere.

It is possible that the petrol is a bit dodgy, it has been sat for a while, but I put 10 litres in a few days ago.

Any other ideas/suggestions for what I should check?

The fuel tank change over switch in the seat box is notorious for leaking air. Even with new cork gasket kit my new fuel pump still had trouble drawing fuel . Problematic anytime I wanted some power. I got frustrated and added a 12V facet in the feed from one of the tanks to push fuel through the change over switch / fuel cock - a bodge but it solved the problem.

Thats one part I was glad to give away with the tanks when I sold them to another lightweight owner.

[DieselDan]

Thanks Don, I'll check the changeover tap.
I've got an old spare one lying around so I might swap between them, see if that helps.

[DieselDan]

Think I've fixed it.
Took a video of the fuel flowing through the filter prior to the carb so it definitely had air getting in somewhere.
Bypassed the tap and ran a hose straight from the tank to the lift pump - no more bubbles, but it still ran like a dog.
So I started looking through the electrical system and found the coil getting unbelievably hot. Too hot to touch.
New coil and she now runs like a dream!
Just need to fix the running-on issue and I think it's roadworthy time [emoji106]

[DieselDan]

It failed the roadworthy, bugger.
Cracked rubber in one of the mounts and the passenger door decided it refuses to stay shut.
New mounts are fitted so that solves that one.
Passenger door got solved by a combination of a new door striker plate and new door seals with a smaller bulb seal. It now stays shut.

Just waiting to get it retested and hopefully it's now all good.

[DieselDan]

Update....

VASS engineer's report - check.
Roadworthy - check.
Join classic car club - check.
Fill out forms for club permit - check.
Get club plates from VicRoads - check.
Rush home in excitement to fit plates and go for a drive - check.
Get home to find Lightweight has developed a bladder problem and dumped its coolant on the floor.... check!

Dammit.

[alien]

Update....

VASS engineer's report - check.
Roadworthy - check.
Join classic car club - check.
Fill out forms for club permit - check.
Get club plates from VicRoads - check.
Rush home in excitement to fit plates and go for a drive - check.
Get home to find Lightweight has developed a bladder problem and dumped its coolant on the floor.... check!

Dammit.
Close, oh so close.
I’ve got my old take off hose if you need them short term, heater hoses are smaller than the civilian versions too.

[DieselDan]

Thanks Kyle.
I've got Monday off work so I'm going to spend the day looking for the leak!
I'll let you know what I find.

[goingbush]

Bugger , thats frustrating.

Dan, which VASS Engineer did you use?

I had my '49 Dodge pass VASS a month ago and I should be driving it around now but my Engineer was killed in a horrific crash(woman ran into the back of him, killed Engineer & Car Owner whilst testing a restored FJ) before he sent the approval into VicRoads . Now I have to go through the process again , new VASS appointment on the 15th , but I have the brake test tickets from his machine so that will help.

[DieselDan]

Hi Don,

Ouch that's terrible, poor bugger.

I'll dig out his details and pm you.

[DieselDan]

How did you go with the Dodge?

Think I've fixed the coolant leak, it was all pouring down the front of the block and I wondered if the water pump had sprang a leak.
Thankfully not and it just turned out to be the short piece of hose underneath the thermostat and also the bottom radiator hose that had both cracked and split.

Having been sat unused for 10years, I think this is going to be an endless chase of finding what gives up the ghost next because on the shakedown drive to make sure the coolant was fine, the clutch slave cylinder decided to dump fluid into the bell housing....

[goingbush]

Might be a case of having to replace anything made of Rubber , Replaced everything in the Dodge, being 71 years old everything was stuffed.

Finally got VASS approval, now RWC again ( expired 2 days ago) and VicRoads next week then we are finally done, The red tape has literally taken longer than the resto.




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[DieselDan]

Nice!
Looks awesome, sounds like Al was able to help you out.

Yeah I've gone round replacing most things, hoses, pipes etc. in the brakes, fuel lines and cooling system.
After I'd bled the clutch to check it still worked it all seemed fine but I'm guessing a bit of prolonged usage has seen it decide it has seen better days!
Got a new slave cylinder on order.

[DieselDan]

Finally got the clutch slave cylinder fitted. What a ***** of a job that is!
And also sorted the remains of the still persistent coolant leak, so it was time for a quick shakedown drive down Geelong seafront.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200815/885e22abb49b4b4a890b16ff668d9130.jpg

[davros]

Nice! Gotta get my 1974 lightweight gearbox out and do the clutch/flywheel spigot bearing. Rowrowrowr noise at idle.
Now a fuel starvation issue I had was that the pump got too hot and vapourised the fuel at around a +35°c day. Electric fuel pump sorted it.
Mine is an import from Norway I bought as a young fella in the 1990s in WA. Ex 24v FFR and had a wading kit at some stage. Converted to 12v and arctic kit removed (heater etc).
Definitely had been in Norway as old Crown coin under the fuel tank, along with live 7.62 blank! Also layers and layers of winter/summer paint scheme...

[DieselDan]

Gorgeous day yesterday so decided to take the Lightweight out for a spin around the tracks out the back of Anglesea.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230425/f23e6bac50e6a13c924f17cfb2333230.jpg

[davros]

Finally got mine out and about again… Gearbox bearing got noisy… took about 10 years to get around to it haha

[goingbush]

Still daily driving mine .

I had to put Wolf rims to it as originals wont fit over the front brake callipers . Took a bit to get use to the new look, but it's a lot better for it.

185469