Help! Trying to replace broken front hub spigot

[DandT]

I currently have my range up on stands to replace a broken front spigot (which I would call a stud) that snapped when some ****head loosened off our wheel nuts for supposedly a joke. So now I have my replacement spigots and research I have found has indicated that there is a notch on my hub that I line up my broken one with, however on my hub I can find no such notch.
I have read through RAVE and found instructions on removing the shield so I can get to them, but there doesn't appear to be any instructions on replacing the spigots. Happy to be pointed in the right direction.
Has anyone replaced one of these on a P38 before and can shed some light? Thanks!

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/05/463.jpg

[p38arover]

I'm not sure which part. Can you post a pic?

I don't have RAVE on my iPad to check it.

[Hoges]

I am assuming the "bolt" to which the wheel nut is attached, is broken? If so, it's called a 'wheel stud'... which should help in searching for a replacement.

Replacing wheel studs doesn't seem to be covered in RAVE. However, to do so you need to remove the rear dust shield.

So: remove the two bolts which secure the brake caliper and remove it. NOTE: make sure you have a piece of stiff wire properly bent to hang the caliper out of the way so that its weight is not taken on the brake line... a wire coat hanger (DIY Modified!) is perfect for this...

Now remove the caliper frame from the back of the hub assembly.
Once this is removed you undo the retaining screw then tap the brake disc from the studs. I can't remember whether you have to remove the hub+axle assembly from the diff housing before you remove the dust shield.

If you do, then work on the hub once it's removed... you will need to press the stud out..probably a few smart "taps" ...HINT: if you have a spare nut (not a wheel nut) which fits the broken stud, screw it on a couple of turns and hit that to get it moving... you don't want to be transferring hammer shocks along the axle while it's in the diff...

Part number for a wheel stud at British Parts UK is FTC 2057 (about $6 + postage from UK)

Karcraft in Sydney have wheel studs for Range rover -part No. RLJ 500010 for about $7 +postage

Hope it works out OK ..hearing how it happened makes me angry:censored: if you had proof... they could be charged!

[DandT]

photo added for reference, with broken stud knocked back just off where it stops

[DandT]

I am assuming the "bolt" to which the wheel nut is attached, is broken? If so, it's called a 'wheel stud'... which should help in searching for a replacement.

Replacing wheel studs doesn't seem to be covered in RAVE. However, to do so you need to remove the rear dust shield.

So: remove the two bolts which secure the brake caliper and remove it. NOTE: make sure you have a piece of stiff wire properly bent to hang the caliper out of the way so that its weight is not taken on the brake line... a wire coat hanger (DIY Modified!) is perfect for this...

Now remove the caliper frame from the back of the hub assembly.
Once this is removed you undo the retaining screw then tap the brake disc from the studs. I can't remember whether you have to remove the hub+axle assembly from the diff housing before you remove the dust shield.

If you do, then work on the hub once it's removed... you will need to press the stud out..probably a few smart "taps" ...HINT: if you have a spare nut (not a wheel nut) which fits the broken stud, screw it on a couple of turns and hit that to get it moving... you don't want to be transferring hammer shocks along the axle while it's in the diff...

Part number for a wheel stud at British Parts UK is FTC 2057 (about $6 + postage from UK)

Karcraft in Sydney have wheel studs for Range rover -part No. RLJ 500010 for about $7 +postage

Hope it works out OK ..hearing how it happened makes me angry:censored: if you had proof... they could be charged!

Hi Hoges

Yeah to say we were not impressed was an understatement. However, despite us knowing exactly where it happened, there is nothing we can do or prove, only can be grateful that only one snapped at slow speed, not on the highway.

I may have to pull the hub assembly out to get to the studs (the dust shield doesn't appear to be interferring) as the stud hits the hub when trying to tap it out. It may be possible to grind a flat spot on the new stud (which I got from island 4x4) to get it in, if there is any way I can get the old one out with cutting throught it. Sadly dont have anything at my disposal that may cut through the broken bolt :/ So, if i have to pull the hub out, do I need to do anything with the wheel bearings, or will they be ok to just be pulled out and put back in?

[wayneg]

Presumably you will need to remove the Hub- bearing assembly, I am not sure. At least you can get it onto a bench to work on. The staked nut in the centre is extremely tight. I was unable to undo mine so took the car to a truck tyre place, they loosened it for me then I went back for them to torque it up when finished, $10 tip made them happy. The wheel bearings will not be disturbed during removal or refit its a press fit which wont move without a heavy press.
I think you will have to grind a flat side on the new stud to get it in, not sure on the old one, depends how long it is. Time to buy an angle grinder me thinks
See
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/p38a-range-rover/122386-renew-cv-joint.html

[flathead steve]

There's some ***hole's out there. When you get it on the bench a little heat from the oxy torch will see it pop out no worrie's, my old man replaced plenty on his speedway car when I was a kid this way. Lock nut's all round eh! LOVE TO TALK TO WHO DID IT :censored:

[Hoges]

Ahh! picture makes it much clearer!!

Firstly, $50 4"angle grinder from a Bigname warehouse or wherever with a 1.5mm (thin) cutting disc would do the job in a couple of minutes... wear safety glasses and take your time. Once you've cut the head off the stud you should be able to knock the remaining bit out relatively easily -either direction.

It seems to me just looking at the photo that a replacement stud is going to require you to remove the hub from the carrier (4 bolts), preferably without dislodging the axle from the diff housing, and dismantle the hub. As Wayneg describes, you'll need a new stake nut (a couple of dollars) having removed the existing one. The hub then needs to be split which I've read elsewhere requires something like a 20T press*.

The imbuggerance from the photo is that "they" obviously inserted the studs prior to final assembly of the hub. So a broken stud = new hub !!! I guess a $300 hub is better business than $7 stud!

It's a long shot BUT ... you could as mentioned, cut a "flat" on the head of the new stud just to the outer diameter of the shank, don't cut into the shank!! and see if the flat is sufficient to provide enough clearance. If there is enough clearance, simply pack the other side with oversize nuts /washers etc and replace the wheel nut and tighten it up and pull the stud through. The remaining flange area on the stud should be more than sufficient to operate safely.
hope this helps

EDIT: *check out http://www.rangerovers.net/repairdetails/drivetrain/hubs.html to see what you're dealing with.

[DandT]

Thanks for the responses everyone, I think for simplicities sake I'll try the angle grinder route first, simply because I dont have a 20t press or a tyre fitter particularly close by (at least 5km away, which would be too big a risk for me) there's seems to be plenty of articles on doing that on small front wheel drive cars on the web so I have lots to refer to! :cool:

Also, can anyone tell me if I need to prep the new wheel nuts with grease or anything? Gen LR with the collar.

As for locknuts, thinking about it. Happened far from home though, and has prompted a regular walk around the range upon returning every time we are out of sight of it, so might not be necessary. Not sure if they would've helped in this instance, they had been loosened by what looked like a large multi grip. There was crimping etc on all the wheel nuts on the front and 2 on the rear tyre, which were the loose ones. A**holes.

[DandT]

It's a long shot BUT ... you could as mentioned, cut a "flat" on the head of the new stud just to the outer diameter of the shank, don't cut into the shank!! and see if the flat is sufficient to provide enough clearance. If there is enough clearance, simply pack the other side with oversize nuts /washers etc and replace the wheel nut and tighten it up and pull the stud through. The remaining flange area on the stud should be more than sufficient to operate safely.
hope this helps



Meant to say, the flange it about 1.5mm too wide, I think grinding that off will be fine :) it really is only just too wide to knock past the hub!

[mtb_gary]

DandT

Certainly one to be p***d off about. Like you say, fortunately discovered at a low speed and not at highway speed! Just wish you could get the culprits and use their multi grips to crush their nuts. Or is that a bit harsh :angel:.

Gary

[wayneg]

I would have no reservations grinding a flat side into the new stud head to get it in. I have seen new studs made that way so cant see it would be a problem. Sure beats trying to part the hub from the bearing carrier.

[DandT]

Ok, today was spent trying to finish this up, to no success.

Got an angle grinder, ground off the broken stud, knocked it out, and ground off a edge from the new one. Line it up, fail. The stud is far too long to line up and still gets hung up on the hubs :( ground off a bit more, still can't get the right angle.

After seeing how far it needs to go, while accepting its not going to work, we ground off nearly half the head before giving up and starting to look at cutting off some of the thread....

Cracked and threw myself on the mercy of a local mechanic, who immediately informed me that the stud is too long to knock through, and indeed the hub needs to come apart :eek: but fortunately it's not going to affect the wheel bearing, which I was worried about. However, I think I'll leave it to a mechanic, I'm in need of a cv joint soon so hub has to come apart for that anyway, 2 birds one stone all that jazz, ah well! It was an experience ;)

[wayneg]

Thanks for the update. I know you have to split the hub to get the new wheel stud in ( as you have now explained), however it is not necessary if you are only replacing the CVJ. Good luck with it.

[DandT]

Thanks for the update. I know you have to split the hub to get the new wheel stud in ( as you have now explained), however it is not necessary if you are only replacing the CVJ. Good luck with it.

Really? **** :( might have to get my hub disassembly on.