View Full Version : EAS - Spoke too soon
ytt105
21st May 2013, 09:36 AM
Started crowing too soon.
This link is to my original drama
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/p38a-range-rover/174640-eas-i-thought-i-knew-how-works.html
Travelling to work yesterday, on the highway, down to hyw mode, and fault starts screaming. So, turned the EAS off via my dash mounted switch and checked for codes this morning.
Code 3 "RR valve closed"
Cleared the errors and now I'm back where I started. The compressor doesn't run.
Does this error help at all.
Regards
PeterAllen
21st May 2013, 02:49 PM
I wouldn't pay too much attention to the code as if you refer to Storey Wilson's site ....it can mean any number of things.........
This fault is indicating that there is a possible problem with the Rear Right solenoid valve. But...Be very wary of this fault code. The most likely cause of this fault code is a leak in one of the air springs or general leak in the system. Also make sure and check for a weak compressor. Find and repair all leaks in the system first. Also time how long the systems takes to pressurize the primary air tank.
I am leaning to a problem in the valve block if you are pretty sure there is no leaks.
Check the compressor works under the unlock suite. If it does run the pump for a few minutes to pressurize the tank. Do this with the motor running to avoid draining the battery as I did and make sure all doors are closed
Turn off the pump and then go to calibration and read all values. Once the values are done click on the goto button for standard height. and the car should go to that setting hopefully.
Once its at a setting pull the delay timer relay as that is suppose to stop it self leveling. Any drop in height is suppose to indicate a leak on that wheel however I am not convinced that a slow leak somewhere in the valve block cannot also cause a pressure loss at the wheels as both my front wheels will lose height uniformly overnight and I am 100% sure they don't have leaks. I am going to do a valve block rebuild again and test my theory and will let you know
ytt105
21st May 2013, 04:59 PM
All worth checking Peter, thanks.
Not sure how, or why, leaks would stop the compressor from running. The compressor runs fine by relay bypass or 'Storeys' software.
Regards
PeterAllen
21st May 2013, 05:46 PM
My compressor is doing the same thing as yours. I swapped it out and it ran for a little while and then faulted . I have checked most things like yourself and nowiI believe the problem must be within the valve block itself.
PaulP38a
22nd May 2013, 02:25 AM
Trev - come over and borrow my spare Driver Unit and a Delay Timer. Just because you have new ones does not mean they are good.
I will be home after 6pm or so... you have my number.
PeterAllen
22nd May 2013, 07:08 AM
Paul can you contact me on pm as I would like to get a couple of valve block o' ring sets from you.
Thanks
johnyrover
22nd May 2013, 12:53 PM
Three things you should never have to even think about on any car.
1. Motor
2. Drive train
3. Suspension
Range Rover have two out of three covered with the p38. But having to wonder if your car is going to drop you on the stoppers whenever it feels like it, is not my idea of fun.
Since putting coils on my car I enjoy every minute behind the wheel. If you are half handy you could do it yourself. There are plenty of reputable dealers in the U.K. for coils, and even after postage you will probably come out ahead of a local price. If however you are happy to fight with something that will thwart you on any occasion it chooses, and love carrying around buckets of spares "just in case", then I apologise for any offence my advice may cause.
Cheers and happy Roving
PeterAllen
22nd May 2013, 02:26 PM
Don't think I haven't been tempted Johnnyrover, BUT the ride is way too good when it works as it should and I am sure there are plenty of them about that are problem free. In any event, where is the challenge if it all worked properly?
Out of pure curiosity, what height do the coils put the car at? Standard or high or can you stipulate a coil length ? Just asking.:wasntme:
johnyrover
22nd May 2013, 03:15 PM
Yeah I do get where you are coming from. For the short time I had air I did enjoy the unique aspect it brings to the drive.
I asked for standard height and from what I've read here it puts me about there. I measure from the bottom of the wheel centre to the centre of the wheel arch. It is 505mm. It sits 15mm higher at the back, which looks kind of cool. And yes you can ask for taller. Some guys go for what they call 2" above standard lift. These are for the serious offroaders, and I don't think there is a lot of luxury at this height. But I am a bit of a highway star so standard suits me fine.
All the best and good luck on your quest.:D
bruce p38
22nd May 2013, 06:40 PM
Just put'n it out there but could you fit polyairs to the front (hollow) springs like you do on the back of a converted P38? Just inflate them to provide the ride height necessary. Im not mechanical nor engineering minded, but just wondered!
Happy Days
PeterAllen
23rd May 2013, 07:07 AM
Hi Trev, did you have any success with the swapped driver and relay from Paul?
ytt105
23rd May 2013, 09:11 AM
Peter
I haven't borrowed them yet, hopefully tonight.
I've already tried a timer relay and driver box, and ECU, from a mates parts car with no effect, but they are of unknown quality so worth a second test.
This is my third air suspension car and the biggest problem with them is that I can only buy another air suspension car to replace it.
Disco 3 or L322 next.
PeterAllen
25th May 2013, 03:48 PM
Any luck so far Trev. Keep us all updated if you identify the cause. I have ordered an o ring kit from Paul so will let you know how that goes
ytt105
25th May 2013, 08:16 PM
I've tried the timer relay but it made no difference. I've just got a temp sensor from our saviour, Paul, and will fit it tomorrow.
I've found that if I run a thick earth wire to the temp sensor, (orange wire to the compressor), it seems to run fine.
So, fit a new temp sensor tomorrow and see how we go from there.
PeterAllen
26th May 2013, 08:34 AM
t
Trev do you have an open or closed circuit when you test for continuity between the black and orange terminals on the compressor when cold.
ytt105
26th May 2013, 09:25 AM
Peter
I had a closed circuit, but I think it is basically an intermittent fault.
Its been working fine since the temp sensor has shorted out.
I probably wont get to fit the new temp sensor today, but will keep you informed of progress.
Regards
ytt105
27th May 2013, 01:33 PM
OK, fitted the new temp sensor and everything seems to work fine.
Its interesting to note that both the old and new sensor tested the same with a multimeter, but the new one works. Go figure.
I have previously advised that the brushes should be tied back with fishing line.
I have now found that the white plastic washer that seems to be useless is actually used to hold back the brushes whilst fitting the brush holder.
So, I'm happy, the world is back on an even keel, and so is the Rangie.
I hope I'm not jinxing myself!
Powered by vBulletin® Version 4.2.4 Copyright © 2026 vBulletin Solutions, Inc. All rights reserved.