Play on steering wheel

[GyroLandy]

My Defender has had play on teh steering wheel ever since I bought it 5 years ago. I think it has become worse over time.

At the moment I can keep going straight and turn the steering wheel to 10 o'clock and 2 o'clock without affecting the directions.

What is the the best approach to determine which part needs replacing?

[VM_Motori]

There is an adjuster nut and allen key on the steering box (loosen the nut to adjust) if that does not fix the play then your steering linkages might be an issue.

Just fix this on my RRC hope your Defender is the same.

Cheers

[POD]

Get someone (a wife usually) to move the steering wheel back and forth through the freeplay whilst you get under the front of the vehicle and look at all the steering components for unnatural movement or obvious freeplay. Start under the bonnet looking at the steering shaft uni joints, work your way from there to the wheels, checking all the tie-rod ends, bushes, etc. Push the front of the vehicle from side to side whilst you watch the panhard rod bushes for movement. Put a bar between the axle and control-arm bushe and check them for slack. To have that much slack in the steering is downright dangerous to everyone around you, probably indicates multiple components excessively worn.

[DiscoMick]

Assuming your Defender is similar to my D1, my Disco had a similar problem and I replaced the steering arm pin on the passenger side, which tightened it up a bit, but it still has more play than I like, so I'm told it may need the steering box adjusted.

[87County]

What POD writes should be checked first, and any balljoints with excess play should be replaced, but often it will be at least partly what VM-M writes about, pre-load in the steering box - if you haven't done this before get some help because you can over tighten.

Pointless doing the preload before other potential slack points are investigated and corrected if necessary.

[clive22]

Hi


I had the same issue, was wear everywhere really, replace all the easy bits then try to take as much slack out with the steering box adjuster as you can.

What happens though is that the wear is in the straight ahead position and its goes notchy either side of straight.

Maybe worth checking the uni joints on the steering column too as these can wear, mine where OK but with some play

Ended up replacing steering box, which was expensive, but not as bad as other brands. The good news is the steering was as good as brand new and transformed the drive.

Clive

[AdsLandies]

Also check the drop arm below the steering box. I know of a few that have a habit of becoming loose - mine included. Once again it's hard to pick unless you get someone to "rock" the steering while you're under there having a look.

[GyroLandy]

Thx I have checked the drop arm and that seems solid.

The steering linkages from where the column comes out through the firewall to where it connects to the sterring box seems to have quite a bit of play.

Can one buy the linkages/joints (looks like 3 af them) seperately or can one buy the complete steering rod and replace all of it.

How do I go about removing the steering rod, see it has a spline where it connect at the top?

Also, I noticed an Allenkey on top of the box, it was mentioned previoudly that this can be used to pick up some slack in the box.How do I do this, clockwise or anti-clockwise and how will I know how many turns?

[JDNSW]

....
Also, I noticed an Allenkey on top of the box, it was mentioned previoudly that this can be used to pick up some slack in the box.How do I do this, clockwise or anti-clockwise and how will I know how many turns?

Jack up both front wheels.
loosen the locknut, and tighten the allen screw until the steering shows increased resistance, checking over the whole range, lock to lock.
Loosen the allen screw slightly until increased resistance is no longer felt.
Tighten locknut.
Recheck steering is free, lock to lock.
Total adjustment almost certainly less than one turn.

Hope this helps

John

[GyroLandy]

Thx John, I take it the allenkey is on the top, correct?

Can 1 turn make such a big difference?

[VM_Motori]

Yes

Hmm funny we back on this subject ;)

Ciao

[JDNSW]

Thx John, I take it the allenkey is on the top, correct?

Can 1 turn make such a big difference?


Yes, and yes - when tightening the locknut, take care the allen screw does not move as well.

[GyroLandy]

I'm replacing the stweering shaft and the uni's on both end but I have a problem. The part supplied has a long shaft on teh one end and a short shaft on the other end.

When I put the new shaft next to the old one I see the short shaft of the new one is 1cm longer than the old one (and therefore the complete shaft is longer by teh same amount). Because of this I can;t line of the hole on the uni with the notch in the shaft.

The part number is RTC4738 but it also say on the packaging RTC4738L. I googled it but con't confirm whether there were different shafts for different models. I have a 94 Tdi Defender.

Anyone know whether I was supplied the wrong part or am I missing something