looking at a p38 4.6

[rangy01]

Ive had several old series landies, a TDI Disco and an 88 Rangy. Ive got the bug again and currently looking at a 02 P38 4.6 Rangy.
Not being familiar with these later (Well it is only 11 years old) Rangies, could someone help with the following info please.
Do these still have a lockable center diff or is everything controlled electronically?
Is there anything to look out for when I go for an inspection next weekend?
I believe the air suspension has been replaced with springs, not sure if this is a good thing.
It is a very low K HSE with a reasonably complete service history.
Thanks in advance.

Andy.

[wayneg]

There is no centre diff as such, its a viscous coupling permanent 4 wheel drive . These can seize solid with the same results as leaving a central diff locked. Make your own mind up about the air suspension castration, I would go straight past any car that has had it removed however others choose to disagree that the EAS is one of the best points of the P38. Reduce price if EAS is gone. I would budget for a new rad if its not been changed and possibly a water pump. The cooling system must be 100% as overheating can cause terminal engine problems
Just check everything electrical is working and deduct off the price for any failure

[Keithy P38]

I'm one of the fence-sitters with castration of a P38's bags. I love them to bits (and am currently lifting mine on bags), but I've also been tempted by those coily things. If you are planning on remote touring it has its advantages, but I'll not be the person to remove bags for coils - not in a heartbeat, and not as an excuse for an issue the suspension may have in a remote place. Once you've gone over the whole system you can have peace of mind for a few years.

As for centre diff lock, as stated above it is viscous. It's not electronic (selecting low range in the transfer case is), but the diff lock is pretty much a soft auto-locker in that it can deliver 50% drive front to rear, mostly under load, but it is not noticeable as with an auto-locker. If it makes you feel better, there are a large amount of people here who use them for hard low range driving and have not been let down. Mine is a pure 4wd, no taxi work, all for touring and tackling the harder tracks I like to explore.

I think you'll fall in love with first drive! It's meant to be!

Cheers
Keithy

[benji]

Dont be put off by the electrics in them, theres no black magic.

Enjoy it, they do drive very well. Possibly the best live axle vehicle ever.

[rangy01]

I'm one of the fence-sitters with castration of a P38's bags. I love them to bits (and am currently lifting mine on bags), but I've also been tempted by those coily things. If you are planning on remote touring it has its advantages, but I'll not be the person to remove bags for coils - not in a heartbeat, and not as an excuse for an issue the suspension may have in a remote place. Once you've gone over the whole system you can have peace of mind for a few years.

As for centre diff lock, as stated above it is viscous. It's not electronic (selecting low range in the transfer case is), but the diff lock is pretty much a soft auto-locker in that it can deliver 50% drive front to rear, mostly under load, but it is not noticeable as with an auto-locker. If it makes you feel better, there are a large amount of people here who use them for hard low range driving and have not been let down. Mine is a pure 4wd, no taxi work, all for touring and tackling the harder tracks I like to explore.

I think you'll fall in love with first drive! It's meant to be!

Cheers
Keithy

I will have a look to see what is missing with the air suspension (although not exactly sure what I am looking for!!!) and check what the current owner has kept in the way of air bags etc.
I don't mind coils, I still have two sets here from my old 88 Rangy and 98 TDI that I used to change prior to our major trips. But I was looking forward to the ability to set for load by pressing a button!! ( I suppose that is possible with the air set up).
Andy

[Keithy P38]

You don't even need to press a button, it's all done automatically in a P38 :-)

Either way I'm sure you will be a happy camper!

[redandy3575]

Pretty much all covered.

As Keithy said, use the coil springs as a bargaining tool to reduce the price a little, as the vehicle is no longer original.

Good Luck.

Oh, and make sure you have no head gasket leaks, eh!

[33chinacars]

As already stated, Full service history. Check that all electrics work. No heater or radiator leaks. No water marks in spare wheel well.

Pity about the EAS as this is the best feature of a P38. Self leveling. You only need to decide how high you want to set the suspension.

Good luck

Gary

[rangy01]

Thanks for all the tips and info, of to look at it in the mourning, will let you all know how I went.

Andy.

[wayneg]

Something we forgot to tell you to look at was the heater core O ring leak. Get the car running up to temp with the heater working. On the right of the tunnel where your left foot would rest check the carpet for any signs of dampness or leaks. The O ring cost a few $$ but a days labour. On the other side dampness is caused by the air con drains being blocked which is a 5 min DIY.
Back to the HEVAC control. Make sure all is good. Drop the temp to LOW and check cold air is coming from all the vents by pressing the various buttons. Then turn both temps up full and check again. Any variation show a Potentiometer / blend motor failure which again is a days labour.
All fixable by a competent DIY`er but worth $1000 of the asking price.

[Shirley]

They keep ya thinking but what a dream to drive.....
Shirley....:p;)

[rangy01]

Sorry to report that I didn't purchase the P38. I found the heater "o" rings were weeping. Pass door very difficult to open, Doors locked and unlocked (well three of them anyway) randomly as you drove, this happened at no particular speed. It wouldn't go into low ratio, the lh auto position lights just blinked. All interior plastic surfaces were marked, one panel around heater controls was cracked. Bonnet and tailgate struts needed replacing. Steering wheel was worn to a high polish. Seats, trims and roof lining were all badly marked. It just didn't look like a rangy should that was only showing 112 K's. And it was top asking price as well.

I will keep looking. Thanks for all the advice.
Andy

[wayneg]

Obviously a good place to start to learn the faults. There is a white one on e-bay at the moment that might be worth looking at for 8k, Get a set of decent wheels, new headlining etc and you could end up with a rare Vogue for 9k

The low range selection can take a good few seconds to happen. With car stopped move lever across to low side. There will be a beeping sound from the dash whilst low range is engaged automaticly. It should stop beeping when completed and the flashing lights go stable. The motor and ecu can burn out, not the end of the world but a sign of no upkeep



http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/RANGE-ROVER-VOGUE-2000-4X4-4-6li-V8-/121117257010?pt=AU_Cars&hash=item1c3326ad32

[Grumbles]

I always worry when I see what seems to be a great buy older vehicle with very new Vic number plates. It never fails to make me suspicious of its history aka a wet car from interstate, stolen rebirthed or......???????

[benji]

Too true, I know a few traders have been saying a lot of fal-commodores from QLD have found there way down here after the floods.

[serbastion]

look in aulro market place