Stupid mistakes, mmm.

[benji]

Well, learnt a valuable lesson last night -engine spins clockwise if you're looking at it from the front.
I did read that it spins anticlockwise, and the fan seemed to confirm this, so I dialed in the can wrong didn't I....
Needless to say it wouldn't start.

So with some help we had the cam redialed back in in under 2 hours; so today I'll bolt it all up again.

Elementary dear Watson, elementary.

[mtb_gary]

Nothing broken (except maybe some ego) put it down to R & D or just pretend it didn't happen ;) :D

Gary

[benji]

Yes, r and d, thats it. As it was about 110 advanced I was simply trying to get the torque curve to peak at 9000 rpm...
Oh well, starting it tomorrow.

[benji]

Well, got it all back together and it starts, but only runs for a few seconds. Throttle or no throttle doesn't make any difference.

When its winding over I get a pop-pop...pop-pop. Which I though might be two cylinders not firing. The coil pack positive feed has perfect continuity, as is the ecu feed to three of the coils. But it is difficult to test as my test probes are quite large.

I'll try on lpg tomorrow to rule out injector issues.

What I'm wondering is, should it fire up on 6 cylinders, does an engine that's misfiring make a light popping sound as its winding over and, could it be anything else?

All else is good though, motor sounds good, and got oil pressure.

[Keithy P38]

Sounds like a cylinder or two are firing when they shouldn't!

I would double-check the plug leads are in the correct order.

Failing that I am at a loss. Give me a carby motor and ill go to town on it, injection is something I'm not quite all-over yet.

Cheers
Keithy

[p38arover]

Well, learnt a valuable lesson last night -engine spins clockwise if you're looking at it from the front.
I did read that it spins anticlockwise, and the fan seemed to confirm this, so I dialed in the can wrong didn't I.....

The fan rotates in the opposite direction to the engine. Note the fan belt path - under the engine pulley (ribbed side) and UNDER the fan pulley (flat side).

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=61109&stc=1&d=1369826810

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=61111&stc=1&d=1369827237

[benji]

Lol, yes, I won't forget that one now.

Got it going this arvo, two leads were wrong and had the lpg wiring around the wrong way, turning off the injectors (managed to test the other coil and it's fine).

Now i've got 1 lifter that has bleed down. All were completely silent when I started it, and after 4 minutes it started to go down. After the cam run in it feels completely empty, and I can press the pushrod down against the internal spring of the lifter 15mm or so. All the other lifters are fine.

[Keithy P38]

Bugger! It's a pain of a job for just one lifter!

How does the engine sound/feel?

Did you end up getting the torque cam you spoke of in your last thread?

Cheers
Keithy

[benji]

Yeh I did get the cam, the 5240-110 - can't wait to see how it goes, the better half is buying me a tin of tinea cream - although I think itchy feet is a syndrome...

The data sheet that come with it said 1.2246mm lift at TDC, though the closest chain tooth was 1.116mm - which I don't think is to much of an issue.

The engine sounds a LOT quieter than before and solid, though it is lumpy because of the cam, but should smooth out a lot as the ecu re-leans. I should probably re-set the adaptive values... the idle is still perfectly fine though. I took a few acurate L/100k measurements before hand, and a few spots around town where I could get to 60kph by; so it should be interesting.

Throttle responce is so much better too, though I think that's a result of getting the injectors cleaned.

Talking to dad just before he said sometimes the lifters get an air lock in them, and they need to go through a few heating and cooling cycles to bleed it out. I'm honestly not fussed about changing a lifter though, half a days work.

Fun times ahead, can't wait.

[Keithy P38]

Sounds good mate! Your old boy could well be right. If they haven't been pre-pumped quite right they get air locks. Plenty of times I've helped out the old Holden lads when rebuilding their train-like red motors. Sometimes you get lucky and the air lock disappears, other times it could just be a dodgy lifter.

I'm interested to hear your feedback on the cam! If mine ever gets to rebuild stage I'm either going to stroke it and put a nice torquey cam in, or ill go straight to the LS1/2 with a good bottom end cam or stroker kit. Ultimately I'd love a diesel conversion but they all seem to cost more...

Good work mate!
Keithy

[benji]

Have taken it for a few drives now, and yesterday took it to an old sand quarry playground round the corner from home.
On the road it certainly has a lot more torque (bearing in mind the old lifters didn't bleed up properly, and it had a damaged cam). At 1200rpm it feels the same but smoother, the extra torque starts coming in at 1500, and by 1800 third gear almost feels like second. We did 0-100kph in 13 seconds the other day without going over 3000; I did load the motor up with the torque convertor locked though. Resetting the instrument cluster on the hwy I get 12.4l/100k at 100kph - (the injectors come up pretty good so this should be quite accurate), nothing special but going from a worn cam, to one that's advanced will take a bit of learning for the ecu.

Off road I have to be more carefull with it now, just can't stab the throttle like I used to. Was on an angle in the quarry yesterday, in low second I was able to do a 4 wheel dig at 1800 - twas somewhat like a bobcat :angel:

Still lumpy at idle, though the dodgy lifter (that still bleeds down when it wants to) doesn't help.

[Keithy P38]

Thanks for the feedback mate!

What size tyres are you running on yours benji?

[benji]

Normal 'fun-size' ones. 255/55 - 16.

Got a second set of rims the other month, so after a few other things (airbags and shocks), 265/75 mts are on the cards.

[Keithy P38]

255/55/16's are a touch small for a P38 ;-)

[davidsonsm]

Surely you mean 18" rims.

[benji]

Got me thinking now. .. What ever 255 profile is standard on a16" rim anyway.

Getting stuck into that dodgy lifter this arvo, then it's done. :D

[Hoges]

Normal 'fun-size' ones. 255/55 - 16.

Got a second set of rims the other month, so after a few other things (airbags and shocks), 265/75 mts are on the cards.

255/65/16 ;)

[benji]

Yes, they're the ones.

Yesterday I took the dodgy lifter out, and found the spring under the ball is kinked.

However, I also found i've a tappet pre-load of just over 2mm, to which 1.5mm seems to be the maximum recomended.

As there's plenty of travel left in the lifter I don't see this being a problem; but, there's obviously a maximum recomendation for a reason.

Not quite sure what to do.

[benji]

Got hold of someone in the know yesterday.

Delphi lifters for the LR v8 can run a minimum of .5mm to a maximum of 4mm pre-load. They'll start to pump up over 5500rpm, or 65psi oil pressure.

They're the stats from Delphi themselves

[intheozone]

I wish I knew what most of this was about...

Fingers crossed just by reading I will one day learn and understand.

The more I understand the more I can fix, repair and maintain my own P38 and spend less money at the mechanics:wasntme:

[Hoges]

Check out the questions on V8Wizard (http://www.v8wizard.com/TRANSMISSION.php) for more info! Explore the details under Engines and Camshafts... practical advice re preload, shims etc what to do, why, how to measure etc etc Good explanations
Good luck

[benji]

Agreed Hoges, I've found the best way to learn is to just jump in and do the things - daunting as it is. I do read a lot though - I've got something coming that's so nerdy it'll 'blow ya blinkin socks off'.

V8wizard is a reasonable site - just don't believe everything you read though. RPI claim that the factory 'weak' fuel pumps cause the block cracking...mmm.