Melting Mudflap.

[Pickles2]

We don't have our "90" yet, I'm trying to do my homework before I put in a concrete order...and this site is being invaluable in providing me with much needed info.
Anyway, one of the "issues" I've noticed is the "melting mudflap", caused by the Aussie ADR exhaust which directs the hot exhaust on to the mudflap at speeds over 95kph?...which would concern me, because we will be doing a fair bit of country driving.
Whilst for sure, it's not a major issue, even if the dealer replaces 'em under warranty (until it runs out), it'd still be annoying.
Is there no fix for this?
I was thinking that if a fireproof/heat resistant material were to be affixed to the inside of the mudflap where the hot exhaust fumes hit, the problem would be solved?...Surely someone has thought of this if the issue's been around for a while?
Cheers, Pickles.

[Defender Mike]

Mine only melted if I went over the speed limit LOL . I cut off the melted bit and it hasn't happened since. We drove 1200ks non stop a few weeks back with out any problems. Landrover told me they would just slow down and get my 9.87 litres per 100ks.
Mike :)

[Lagerfan]

I understand it's only a problem if you're towing but I might be wrong :confused:

In our case we've only done about 5k so far in our 90 (LE MY13), that's a mix of highway and off-road - but none of it towing, and there's no sign of any melting going on.

[Sue]

I travel 140kms a day on the hwy - some of it at 110kms an hour.. the car has done 65,000kms and the mudflap has yet to melt. :)

[dawsey]

never looked that hard at a 90 mudflap and exhaust..why the meltdown ..my 110 doesnt have that problem..both stick out the back..must be different I guess

[dawsey]

to answer my own post went and took a pic of the def, now I see ..On a different tack my Suzuki had a out the side exhaust,when new.. but when I fitted new exhaust just ran it rear but inside the mud flap..is this a not possible with a 90? 2nd pic is the zook

[Loubrey]

Hi Guys,

Firstly, the problem is unique to Puma Defenders 90's, and then as Sue wrote not all of them. Secondly, its not a "dripping rubber" or "catching fire" melting at all, so it would cause no issues on long trips.

It is purely an aesthetic thing where it blackens up and deforms (on some cars quite a bit) with some pitting...

It appears to be a factor of the grade and consistency of the rubber used in the actual mudflap. My first set were rock solid and actually stayed bent (curved up) after a long drive at 110Km/h. Being in the exhaust flow all the time it did melt as described above. My second set (dealer replaced) was a bit better, but still not perfect as the alignment of the cut out was quite a bit different from the first set and it actual interfered with the exhaust's movement on its rubber mounts.

Couple answers:
Pickles, sounds like the later 2.2 have less issues (maybe better rubber?)...
Lagerfan, I tow very seldom and it still happens...
dawsey, yes (I've seen Td5's with this arrangement). The rear silencer is very close though and it will take some custom work...

Having looked at this and even considering an option like the Kahn vehicles (see previous post), I eventually opted for super soft 300Tdi 90 mud flaps as well as their brackets. Obviously UK mud flaps for a start don't have the ADR restrictions and 300Tdi didn't have cut out's in any case. The solution was to cut an slightly oval circular cut out in the flap as per the attached picture. The flap is now soft enough to bend at speed without getting all the way up in front of the gas flow, but the flap remains in place to do its intended purpose perfectly.

As with everything I don't suppose my solution is for everyone, but considering I bought 6 brackets (4 LHS and 2 RHS) as well as 6 mud flaps in the same fashion from John Craddock for $110 delivered, It's a perfect "out of warranty" solution for me. I bought them specifically for experimenting and this first set is by no means perfect, but I think the concept works and if I replace them again after the inevitable off road damage I'll do to them, it will be an easy fix...:D

BTW the bumperettes are Terrafirma and they are not compatible with any mud flap bracket (they don't tell you that on the web site:mad:) I've had to modify the mud flap bracket to suit, but I'll post separately on the install.

Cheers,

Lou

[Pickles2]

Hi Guys,

Firstly, the problem is unique to Puma Defenders 90's, and then as Sue wrote not all of them. Secondly, its not a "dripping rubber" or "catching fire" melting at all, so it would cause no issues on long trips.

It is purely an aesthetic thing where it blackens up and deforms (on some cars quite a bit) with some pitting...

It appears to be a factor of the grade and consistency of the rubber used in the actual mudflap. My first set were rock solid and actually stayed bent (curved up) after a long drive at 110Km/h. Being in the exhaust flow all the time it did melt as described above. My second set (dealer replaced) was a bit better, but still not perfect as the alignment of the cut out was quite a bit different from the first set and it actual interfered with the exhaust's movement on its rubber mounts.

Couple answers:
Pickles, sounds like the later 2.2 have less issues (maybe better rubber?)...
Lagerfan, I tow very seldom and it still happens...
dawsey, yes (I've seen Td5's with this arrangement). The rear silencer is very close though and it will take some custom work...

Having looked at this and even considering an option like the Kahn vehicles (see previous post), I eventually opted for super soft 300Tdi 90 mud flaps as well as their brackets. Obviously UK mud flaps for a start don't have the ADR restrictions and 300Tdi didn't have cut out's in any case. The solution was to cut an slightly oval circular cut out in the flap as per the attached picture. The flap is now soft enough to bend at speed without getting all the way up in front of the gas flow, but the flap remains in place to do its intended purpose perfectly.

As with everything I don't suppose my solution is for everyone, but considering I bought 6 brackets (4 LHS and 2 RHS) as well as 6 mud flaps in the same fashion from John Craddock for $110 delivered, It's a perfect "out of warranty" solution for me. I bought them specifically for experimenting and this first set is by no means perfect, but I think the concept works and if I replace them again after the inevitable off road damage I'll do to them, it will be an easy fix...:D

BTW the bumperettes are Terrafirma and they are not compatible with any mud flap bracket (they don't tell you that on the web site:mad:) I've had to modify the mud flap bracket to suit, but I'll post separately on the install.

Cheers,

Lou
Brilliant, detailed post mate,...Thank You.
Not having our "90" yet?!!, I don't have a vehicle to compare with, but I like to sort out problems before I encounter them, if I can!
In your images, it looks as if the standard exhaust just about faces sqare on & almost touching, the rear of the mudflap?....Is this so?....'cause if it is, no wonder the rubber melts!!
Cheers, Pickles.

[Loubrey]

Hi Pickles,

It's not "proximity heat" that melts it as I don't think that part of the exhaust is actually warm enough to do so. You are however right that it faces squarely backwards and anything that should get in the way of the hot exhaust gas flow will have issues.

The OME LHS mud flap has a significant "cut out" in both the rubber and the metal bracket, so you really need to compare them next to each other to see the difference. Mine has absolutely no resemblance to the original arrangement any more as I actually think its the need for "stiff" rubber on the OME cut out that needs to maintain shape that caused the original issue.

Cheers,

Lou

[schuy1]

That is the silliest ADR mod I have seen in a long time! :o I think the solution I would adopt is extend the metal mount down to the exhaust with the cut out in it, then the mudflap attached . The mudflap would then be below the exhaust outlet.
The extended metal mount would not come to any offroading harm as if it did the exhaust would also suffer.

Cheers Scott

[Loubrey]

Scott,

I did consider a modified bracket (see post about Kahn conversion), but unfortunately the exhaust moves a LOT on its rubber hanger and as it sticks past the cross member it creates an almighty "clank" when ever it hits the bracket (which it does with every bump or dip in the road). In short, an extended bracket is not the option without modifying the exhaust.

The back end of the exhaust scrapes/ touches quite a bit when a 90 climbs out of a hole and an extended bracket will just turn into a plough (even the standard bracket gets a scrape now and then) which has potential to grab the "lip" of the exhaust and rip the lot off.

Like I said, what ever works and I've done a couple thousand km with the new mod now including some off roading and I've got no flap melt, bracket damage or torn off mud flap as you regularly get with 90's. The mod might look silly to some, but it's cured an encountered problem which works fine for me.

Cheers,

Lou

[Mettalique]

This is what mine looks like, I've noticed some are closer to the tyre



61375


61374

[schuy1]

oki, so long as you have a solution that works! :) As for tearing and bending stuff in that position climbing out of holes/Offroading I think I would be swapping the 90 for a quad if it was that bad! I cannot ever recall damaging stuff like that in the SWB 2A :o But then my idea of offroading may differ, My plan is ALWAYS to drive it home! not the old "lets see how much stuff I can bend going up there!" :D
Cheers Scott

[Loubrey]

Scott,

As I hope you can see from my car, not damaging it is very much my first priority. The easiest option by far would have been to just remove them as is the option by many 90 Puma owners, but I believe they have a function and hence I made a plan to address it. It is remarkably easy to bend a 90's mud flap bracket, even by gently climbing down a steepish step. I can assure you that I don't approve of or condone driving like a lunatic and damaging your car in the process.

The whole discussion started around the fact that due to the cut out, the OME flap is required to be very stiff and in the slip stream of the car it lifts up just enough to sit in front of the hot exhaust gas as you can already see by the beginnings of soot deposits on the posted pictures.

There is most probably a number of options, but this is the one that works for me and I suppose the purpose of a forum is to share ideas...

Cheers,

Lou

[debruiser]

is it possible/legal to just have the tailpipe pointed out to the side?

[schuy1]

ADR's require the exhaust to exit to the rear now. Once upon a time it was oki to exit to the rear of the rearmost door or to the drivers side, away from pedestrians.But now it is the car behind who cops it! :D

[debruiser]

ADR's require the exhaust to exit to the rear now. Once upon a time it was oki to exit to the rear of the rearmost door or to the drivers side, away from pedestrians.But now it is the car behind who cops it! :D

Fair enough i guess..... I can see the reasoning in that. sort of.

[Pickles2]

Melting mudflap?...So, who's been affected by this issue?
We've now had our 90 for nearly a year & have done a bit over 10Ks.
Looking at the rear left mudflap, I'm starting to see a bit of "warping", heat damage around the mudflap cut out, obviously caused by the exit of hot exhaust gases.
I was thinking that some heat resistant tape placed around the mudflap cut out would fix this issue. I haven't taken any action yet & wouldn't have a clue what tape to use.
In terms of other postings on this issue, I was expecting the problem, as most of our driving is cruising around 80-100KPH on country roads.
Any other developments/fixes on this issue during the last 12 ms or so?
A resurrected thread/issue, but now affecting me, & who else?
Pickles.

[Loubrey]

Hi Pickles,

I've still got the same mod as per the earlier post, although I'm om my third mudflap due to unrelated issues... :D

I buy the cheap britpart 300Tdi mudflaps from the UK as they are much softer and flexible than the local Td5 and Tdci ones. That does however necessitate the hole cut out.

Last time I bought 4 left and 2 right hand ones and they worked out less than $10.00 each delivered. They don't melt at all, but it might be due to the large amount of movement.

At risk of being criticized again for being "rough" with my car, I must admit that somewhere along the line I must have hooked the silencer box on something because the alignment of my exhaust is a bit screwey (very close to the transfer case)...

Maybe time for a performance exhaust (stainless steel) from one of the UK companies (at least the front piece) and a mod to bring the exhaust out next to the LHS towbar mount completely away from the wheel.

Cheers,

Lou

[debruiser]

I've done 35000km and only melted 1 flap. Did it when I was towing. I think you'll find it only happens when doing high speed 110km/hr and or towing heavy stuff at highway speeds. I've not towed much heavy stuff of late so haven't melted more.

If you take it to the dealer they will put another on, they know about the problem and don't even hesitate.

As for dragging the rear end in and out of holes... I have dragged my tow ball a few times but never caught anything else; well not that I know of anyway. The last time was on a well traversed track. What I want to know is: if a D90 drags it's tow ball on the way through how was the track made and who uses it?????

[KarlB]

I've had mine replaced twice. That said, the current ones have probably done 30,000 km including may long trips at highway speeds, and no melting! The 'rubber' compound has either changed or changes from batch to batch. No problem getting them replaced by the dealer under warranty.

Cheers
KarlB
:)

[Loubrey]

As for dragging the rear end in and out of holes... I have dragged my tow ball a few times but never caught anything else; well not that I know of anyway. The last time was on a well traversed track. What I want to know is: if a D90 drags it's tow ball on the way through how was the track made and who uses it?????

Over here in WA the orange gravel washes out in deep erosion ruts and when you traverse them diagonally you sometimes get a bit cross axled and one of the rear corners tend to drag a bit, thus catching the mudflap. This is done nice and slowly, but most people out this side tend to loose the odd mudflap.

Add to this idiots with massive wheels spinning big holes in tracks, the short wheel base is often even a slight handicap as the 110's and 130's don't seem to suffer the same way by bridging the cross axle areas.

As stated before, my 90 is my daily drive and I certainly do not intentionally or recklessly put the car in damaging positions. However, if you are unwilling to drive on the orange or red gravel there is very little other than sand driving to do in WA...

Cheers,

Lou

[Pickles2]

I was thinking that maybe there would be a heatproof "coating" that would work on rubber, that could be placed around the mudflap exhaust cutout? Is there a "paint" that could achieve this purpose, or alternatively is there a black coloured heatproof tape that would adhere to the rubber in the appropriate area?
Just looking for an easy "fix"?
Pickles.

[Pickles2]

No "Developments" with this issue?
We're now up to 23,000ks, & the left rear mudflap is "still there", but definitely showing signs of heat around the mudflap cutout, and the mudflap itself has "warped" in this area!!
Pickles.

[frantic]

Have you thought about stuff like this?
Automotive | Heatshield Products (http://www.heatshieldproducts.com/automotive)
Either a tape or sock to reduce the heat from the pipe, or maybe a small tip on the end of the pipe to extend gases away.

[Pickles2]

Have you thought about stuff like this?
Automotive | Heatshield Products (http://www.heatshieldproducts.com/automotive)
Either a tape or sock to reduce the heat from the pipe, or maybe a small tip on the end of the pipe to extend gases away.
Mate, that is a GREAT site.
There probably would be something there to use that would do the job, but knowing which product, and how to attach it properly to the mudflap would be an issue....for me anyway!!...It would be a matter of attaching a product around the mudflap exhaust cutout, particularly along the "edge" of the cutout, which is where the exhaust gas hits it!
But others may have a look at that site, & come up with a product solution??
Thanks, Pickles.

[s7oney]

U can buy universal heat sheild material from repco. Hose clamp it to the tail pipe near the mudflap ( use small pieces lift it off the pipe and leave an air gap between the sheild and mudflap

Sent from my GT-I9506 using AULRO mobile app

[jackdef90]

U can buy universal heat sheild material from repco. Hose clamp it to the tail pipe near the mudflap ( use small pieces lift it off the pipe and leave an air gap between the sheild and mudflap

Sent from my GT-I9506 using AULRO mobile app



Hmmmm, I think that might look slightly crap:o

[Pickles2]

Yes, I think so, BUT, some of that material fixed to the inside of the flap with some of it along the cutout edge, could work?
I wonder how it would attach to the rubber? Pickles.

[Toxic_Avenger]

I might be late to the party, but my understanding was that the flow of hot exhaust gases into the mudflap was the cause of the problem... not the mud flap touching the exhaust pipe proper. In other words, heat shields on the pipe itself is not a viable solution.

I've got a brand spankin' pair of flaps to put on my 90, but sitting tight until I can work out a way to make it work long term.

Anyone involved in HSE / OHS would have heard of the heirarchy of control. Basically the order of operations for solving a problem (in the health and safety sphere at least). Same principles apply with other problems too
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/07/784.jpg

The key would be to eliminate the cause of the problem to begin with- relocate the exhaust pipe to a side outlet, or remove the mud flap. There may be legal reasons / issues with this, and not really practical - a car cannot run without an exhaust pipe, for example.
Then you could substitute - consider a different mud flap material perhaps?
Engineering controls like heat shields are the next step, keeping hot gases away from the burnie stuff ;).

As for attaching to the mud flap... probably just some chichago screws
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/07/785.jpg

[jackdef90]

[QUOTE=Toxic_Avenger;2388996]I might be late to the party, but my understanding was that the flow of hot exhaust gases into the mudflap was the cause of the problem... not the mud flap touching the exhaust pipe proper. In other words, heat shields on the pipe itself is not a viable solution.

I've got a brand spankin' pair of flaps to put on my 90, but sitting tight until I can work out a way to make it work long term.

Anyone involved in HSE / OHS would have heard of the heirarchy of control. Basically the order of operations for solving a problem (in the health and safety sphere at least). Same principles apply with other problems too
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/07/784.jpg



The key would be to eliminate the cause of the problem to begin with- relocate the exhaust pipe to a side outlet, or remove the mud flap. There may be legal reasons / issues with this, and not really practical - a car cannot run without an exhaust pipe, for example.
Then you could substitute - consider a different mud flap material perhaps?
Engineering controls like heat shields are the next step, keeping hot gases away from the burnie stuff ;).

As for attaching to the mud flap... probably just some chichago screws
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/07/785.jpg[/QUOTE)



Is this a joke?

[Toxic_Avenger]

If you want it to be.

[jackdef90]

I was referring to the OHS induction you just gave.
Jokes aside
I think Your right though, the exhaust gas is doing the damage rather than the heat radiating off the pipe, I suppose an exhaust tip that directs the gas to the side may work although that may push it in the path of the rear tyre instead
Ive been reading this with interest as my rear left flap looks like a dogs chewed it.
The last service I had done at a dealer I got one for free, I suspect they don't give them out anymore unless your under warranty. It was melted altready slightly that afternoon! as I drove 400 or so Ks at 110kph.

Like you said I'm not bothering replacing mine either until a solution arises.

[Toxic_Avenger]

There's an ounce of truth in any joke. OHS aside, it's never worth tackling a simple problem with a $1000 solution. I think that pyramid is a valid way to look at any problem from a design point of view. Solve the root cause first, then move onto more intricate tomfoolery thereafter.

Re-routing the exhaust would be a $100 job tops if you had to pay for it, but again, take the risk with the legal side.
Compared to yearly replacement of mud flaps at $300 a pop, there needs to be a better way.

Unless you're doing 110km/h in reverse, having the exhaust exit the vehicle on the passenger side after the rear tyre should never be a problem.

I was considering making some stainless steel saddles which went around the aperture of the mud flap, and securing some stainless sheet and a layer of kevlar between it and the mud flap. But once again, a lot of stuffing around for something that will probably look like arse when done anyway.

[Pickles2]

There's an ounce of truth in any joke. OHS aside, it's never worth tackling a simple problem with a $1000 solution. I think that pyramid is a valid way to look at any problem from a design point of view. Solve the root cause first, then move onto more intricate tomfoolery thereafter.

Re-routing the exhaust would be a $100 job tops if you had to pay for it, but again, take the risk with the legal side.
Compared to yearly replacement of mud flaps at $300 a pop, there needs to be a better way.

Unless you're doing 110km/h in reverse, having the exhaust exit the vehicle on the passenger side after the rear tyre should never be a problem.

I was considering making some stainless steel saddles which went around the aperture of the mud flap, and securing some stainless sheet and a layer of kevlar between it and the mud flap. But once again, a lot of stuffing around for something that will probably look like arse when done anyway.
Yes, it is the hot exhaust gas exiting onto the rubber mudflap which is the problem.
I was thinking along the lines of what you've described in your last para,...done right, it would look ok,....but as I've said before, I'm mechanically useless, so it'd be out of the question for me to fabricate something like that.
Another thought I had was to attach a spring loaded wire to the mudflap, just under the exhaust, & attach this by wire etc to the body,...this would stop the flap from bending up in the "draft", and having the spring in the line, would also enable it to "give" should it hit an object?
Pickles.

[Toxic_Avenger]

I ultimately want to go 'quick release' on my rear flaps, as I've pulled 2 of them off while offroad. That will mitigate the potential for damage in that activity, but on the other hand, out where I live, you can go for a drive, and then sit on 100-110km/h for hours on end, so ensuring that I'm legal on road, and not likely to damage the mud flap is another concern.

[Shatkins]

I had the same problem. Bought a new mudflap and cut a piece of 2mm checker plate and fixed it with 8mm domed top allen head nuts and wing nuts with split washers. The checker plate can be removed when off road and easily replaced when back on the freeway before heading home.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/10/391.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/10/392.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/10/393.jpg

[Toxic_Avenger]

That does look sharp! (in a good / classy way, not an 'oh crap, just lost a finger' way)

I thought of getting some stainless bent / welded to line the opening, but yours is indeed an elegant solution.

[Toxic_Avenger]

Here's my solution. It's a saddle that can be bolted to the opening on the mud flap and insulated with a fibreglass material if needed. It is also semi-rigid, so should help reduce the mud flap flex at speed.

Only time will tell whether it works sufficiently!
More info in my build thread here (http://www.aulro.com/afvb/showthread.php?p=2459014#post2459014)

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachments/90-110-130-defender-county/102505d1448867779-meet-my-90-share-adventure-20151130_175434.jpg

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachments/90-110-130-defender-county/102504d1448867779-meet-my-90-share-adventure-20151130_175347.jpg

[Pickles2]

To the best of my knowledge, this issue has not been satisfactorily resolved, as yet.
What about some form of self adhesive heat shielding that would stick to rubber?...Is there such a product,...it would of course have to be able to be folded over the edge of the exhaust cut-out.
Has anyone seen such a product?
Pickles.

[Tombie]

Cut exhaust at muffler shop and weld on at angle. Solved $20.00

Just like the UK one which exits at 45?

[YOLO110]

To the best of my knowledge, this issue has not been satisfactorily resolved, as yet...
Pickles.

I have also totally resolved the issue with my mod to the exhaust!

1: Cut the tail pipe exhaust off at the muffler exit.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/03/726.jpg

2: Weld an extension piece about 5 cm in length to the tail pipe.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/03/727.jpg

3: Re-weld it on. The exhaust exit is now past the rear of the mudflap and the hot gasses no longer blow onto that.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/03/728.jpg

I have done over 1,500 km since, mostly at 110 kph and there has been no melting or marking whatsoever.

Problem sorted! :cool::D

Peter. ;)

[Avion8]

I have done over 1,500 km since, mostly at 110 kph and there has been no melting or marking whatsoever.

Problem sorted! :cool::D

Peter. ;)[/QUOTE]

Look forward to seeing how it looks after your trip across Australia towing the camper trailer. This could be the perfect solution if it survives that.

[YOLO110]

Hi Nigel!

Yes, lets hope it does survive! I am pretty happy so far, a cheap and seemingly effective fix too!

Camper trailer bought now... trip planning in progress! I will set off late May/Early June. Excited! :cool:

Sydney to Perth via the middle... Great Central Highway beckons. I do have a 'special' spare mud-flap but won't fit that until I arrive! ;)

I will certainly post a thread on here when I set off as well.

[Avion8]

Hi Pete,

Thanks for the info. I'm going to hold off on Shatkins fix which I think is great, as I don't really want to drill that extra hole in the mudflap. If your exhaust extension works I will go that route & use the allen bolt, wing nut portion of Shatkins fix. I still like the idea of being able to quickly remove the mudflap when offload, as I note several on this site have ripped them off!

Enjoy your trip across, and we are off to the Perth Caravan & Camping show next week!

[YOLO110]

The Perth show will be great... I went to the Melbourne one 2 weeks ago, needed 2 days really, so much to see! Frustrated I will miss that one too!

Almost came away very poor, but have resisted the temptation and just bought a 'cheapy' to do the trip... the thought being if I (we) like it, maybe we will get something bigger later....

I am pretty confident in my 'fix'... but time will indeed tell. It is certainly the hot exhaust gasses that are melting the flap and even with mine bent upwards by hand, the exhaust still exits behind it now.

I guess the only 'negative' would be it sticks out more now... but TBH it's hardly noticeable.

Will report back! :>)

[Avion8]

The Perth show will be great... I went to the Melbourne one 2 weeks ago, needed 2 days really, so much to see! Frustrated I will miss that one too!

Almost came away very poor, but have resisted the temptation and just bought a 'cheapy' to do the trip... the thought being if I (we) like it, maybe we will get something bigger later....

I am pretty confident in my 'fix'... but time will indeed tell. It is certainly the hot exhaust gasses that are melting the flap and even with mine bent upwards by hand, the exhaust still exits behind it now.

I guess the only 'negative' would be it sticks out more now... but TBH it's hardly noticeable.

Will report back! :>)

Enjoy your trip across. I think it is time we got ours as we aren't getting any younger & the wife is keen to do the Oz trip & we might as well whilst the Landy is under warranty.

At least with your long tail pipe, it won't look like it's been nicked!

Hope it's cooler next Wednesday, as this autumn day it is 38.7 C outside:)

[YOLO110]

I have a feeling that JLR warrantee recovery vehicles will soon be carrying stocks of output shafts! :D

[Avion8]

I eventually received my new mudflap after 7 months of begging:

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/07/791.jpg (http://s938.photobucket.com/user/jodel1050/media/Heritage%2090/HughNewMudflap_zpsrbtbcdna.jpg.html)

As these are so hard to come by I have decided to use the above for best only - i.e. when the engine is switched off & the wind is light & variable. Only 3 M8 bolts hold it to the rear cross member so I will carry it for dress purposes only.

The original with my cutaway mod & glued pinch weld will be the daily drive:

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/06/271.jpg (http://s938.photobucket.com/user/jodel1050/media/Heritage%2090/hughmudflap_zpsllom5jwr.jpg.html)

I was surprised how much dirt & crud was between the mudflap bracket & rear cross member mating surfaces, so will be removing them on an annual basis to clean the surfaces & coat with ACF-50. So far Hugh has only been out in the rain 3 times in nearly 7000kms so I was surprised at the amount of crud. :(

[YOLO110]

Update on my mod previously posted (which was to extend the tailpipe exit away from the mudflap...)

Just drove the 1000 km down the Hume from Sydney to Melbourne ... perfect, not any sign of melting.

(probably because it's the middle of a Victorian Winter however lol!!)

Really pleased :>))

[protonpills]

I was surprised how much dirt & crud was between the mudflap bracket & rear cross member mating surfaces, so will be removing them on an annual basis to clean the surfaces & coat with ACF-50. So far Hugh has only been out in the rain 3 times in nearly 7000kms so I was surprised at the amount of crud. :(


Sounds like me, 12months/3000km and not once in the rain. Then had to take the landie into Southern Land Rover for first service yesterday......and of course it rained!!
By the way asked about cost of yearly corrosion inspection to keep corrosion warranty if i have it serviced independently in future. Was told that they dont bother with the inspections any more and if any corrosion shows up at any time in the 6 years they just fix it automatically.
Oh and 5 standard wheel nuts to replace the security wheel nuts, $127...ouch


Sent from my SM-T210 using AULRO mobile app

[YOLO110]

I bought 10 genuine ones, ordered direct from my JLR dealer for less than $70... :o

[Tombie]

This is my solution. Not a factory look but that's not what we're about! And when towing I didn't want it going straight back into the Camper..

(Mud flap since been replaced under Warranty)

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/06/180.jpg