2003 BMW 318i E46

[Ranga]

Any thoughts/comments on these? This http://www.drive.com.au/Editorial/ArticleDetail.aspx?ArticleID=10917 gave a bit of info, except service costs, parts availability etc.

Anyone familiar with these and able to provide more insight?

[harlie]

We have one of these in the family, lovely solid car, treat to drive (leaves many new cars looking poor), handles like a dream but does lack punch. Parts are easy to get, very cheap OS, but can get pricy here, shop around and you’re fine. You need diagnostic gear; the average mechanic can’t read most of the system.

Only major issue for the 18/20 is auto transmission. It is the early ‘small’ version of the GM 5L40e and the E46 was the first car to have the official ‘sealed for life’ transmission service schedule. Like the diesel L322, many are failing and cost around 8-9k to fix properly. Manuals are fine.

If you want an E46 stick to 318 or 320. The gruntier models (325, 328, 330) are having issues with rear suspension, it tears from the body.

Great car but personally, if you want auto, I would get an early E90.

[justinc]

keep the cooling system in immaculate condition. thermostat and rad especially. they will crack heads if overheated. lots of good patrs from overseas or find yourself an importer like these guys; http://www.imparts.com.au/
they also supply some landrover specific stuff, bilstein, zf trans parts etc etc...

jc

[CraigE]

I bought an E36 323i for my daughter for $4500. It is a fantastic car, leather interior, sun roof, metallic black, very reliable and built much better than the local domestic cars. The 323 is a bit better as it has the 6 cylinder and hooks along. We bought it with just on 200,000kms on the clock and it has now done another 30,000kms. It has not missed a beat. I have had to do some minor work but it is a 15 yo car. The very last of the E36 model (98). I have done all the usual when buying a car, coolant, oils filters etc as part of routine, put in a set of platinum plugs, rocker gasket and that is about it. Having done 30,000kms in it since we have had it it has paid for itself.
The sealed for life gearbox is a bit of a misnomer. These can be serviced and should be. Service kits are readily available for around $30. What BMW actually mean when they say sealed for life is a life expectancy of around 100,000kms. The only issue is there is no dipstick, however there is a drain plug and a fill plug.
Parts prices vary and range from about on par with a Commodore if you find the right supplier. Not like 15 years ago when they were ridiculous.
Plenty of used cars around for parts as well. I know of people with these that have over 400,000kms on the clock. Like everything service and look after it and it will last. Will also be expensive if you take to a BMW specialist for servicing, though even their prices for servicing have come down dramatically recently.
Would I buy another one, you bet.
Great on fuel, We are getting around 8litres per 100kms and that is not driving it economically by a long shot.
Most of the owners I know that have had several BMWs believe the E36 was the pick and the most reliable.

[CraigE]

We have one of these in the family, lovely solid car, treat to drive (leaves many new cars looking poor), handles like a dream but does lack punch. Parts are easy to get, very cheap OS, but can get pricy here, shop around and you’re fine. You need diagnostic gear; the average mechanic can’t read most of the system.

Only major issue for the 18/20 is auto transmission. It is the early ‘small’ version of the GM 5L40e and the E46 was the first car to have the official ‘sealed for life’ transmission service schedule. Like the diesel L322, many are failing and cost around 8-9k to fix properly. Manuals are fine.

If you want an E46 stick to 318 or 320. The gruntier models (325, 328, 330) are having issues with rear suspension, it tears from the body.

Great car but personally, if you want auto, I would get an early E90.
The E36 also has the sealed for life auto transmission. I have the manual and workshop manual that state this. But as my first post this is not quite accurate. it can infact be serviced quite easily. Search any Bimmer forum. Why you would spend 8 - 9 K to fix it is beyond me you can buy new for less than that if you shop around and even a whole car in good nic.

[Ranga]

Should my Subaru be written off due to hail damage, I'll be in the market for another car <$10k.

Now the kids are out of car seats, I'm again considering a mid-2000s BMW or Audi.

I'd be keen to hear any recommendations again.

[mitchE39]

I've just left the BMW world for a while. We had a 2004 320i and it was a great little car. No problems, we had it from new however. Next was my first car, a 1998 E39 528i, 250000 km. The biggest thing to consider is service history. If it has been looked after, it will look after you. Common failures of all BMWs from that era are cooling systems, VANOS on 6 cyl (variable valve timing) and Auto transmissions. If the auto is serviced and radiator and hoses replaced when due, you'll be fine.

There are several kits available relating to the vanos and most will describe the symptoms (startup rattle). Apparently it's not a tough job to do yourself, nor expensive for the parts.

My 5 series was a great car and I kind of miss it, it was easy to work on and a very smooth car to drive and be driven in. I would look more to 6 cylinder cars though. The fuel Co sumptuous is barely different but the extra torque and refinement are quite noticeable. Also the rear sub frame tearing apart is mainly an issue with the pre face lift E46 coupe.

Happy Shopping!