Chain or Snatch Strap?

[jonesfam]

I notice on different threads (like 10 best accessories) that Snatch Straps get continual mentions.
I have never had 1, I have 3 chains of various lengths & sizes all with rated hooks.
I like the chains, I can recover, tow, drag logs, extend the winch & all sorts of stuff. They are heavy but 2 fit nicely in a bag & 1 stays in the wife's Delica.
So what is the advantage to a snatch strap except making recoveries a bit easier? Are they that good? Do they last like a chain? Can you tow etc with them? What is the consensus?
BTW I don't usually drive on sand where I could see they may be handy.
Jonesfam

[BMKal]

Snatch strap is also handy in mud.

No - they don't last like a chain, especially if you use them. However, if you keep a new one in a bag for when it is needed, provided it is kept clean and not had a lot of use, will last a long time. Mine is about 6 years old. Takes up little room and I've only ever used it a couple of times. Trick is to wash and thoroughly dry it before packing away after use.

Last time was to pull a 79 series L/cruiser with loaded toolboxes etc on the back (and a small Mazda attached to the rear of the cruiser) out of a mud flat (small salt lake) near Kalgoorlie. I definitely wouldn't have been able to pull them out with a chain.

[Slunnie]

The big advantage is that they build up greater energy during a recovery through stretch, and they don't shock the chassis. Recovery with a strap is significantly easier with a snatch strap due to this and is much easier on the vehicles. Recovery is the main purpose.

That said, they are not designed to be a chain which is more suitable for other things like what you are using them for.

Yes they really are that good for recovery compared to chains. They don't last as long as chains, they wear with use so life depends on usage but they do last very well. You can tow with them and it takes shock out of the process, but like every use it does wear them.

[superquag]

... A cup of tea before recovery will increase the effectiveness (and safety...) of either.:eek:

[redrovertdi]

I prefer a tow strap/strop to snatching personally[dont own a snatch], prefer slow and steady in control rather than being launched but thats just me, some friends prefer snatch straps but each to there own and ive got a winch[befor the winch i used to take the chain hoist]

[Ralph1Malph]

I am also in the chain camp. Never owned a snatch strap but won't say I never will. I grew up with chains or wire rope and have used chains (or wire rope) all throughout my working life so I am very familar and comfortable with them. That said, they do require a little knowledge and skill to use and are not always faster.
Many people shy away from chains as they believe they can be dangerous. They can, like any piece of recovery gear, they need maintaining. A thorough clean (scrub with kero, diesal or steam clean) after use followed by an inspection for nicks or stretches. Finally lubricate (any petroleum lube) before putting away. I keep mine in a plastic container so the lubricant does not leack out or evaporate.
Trick is to own rated chain, shackles and hooks. This can be expensive first up, but almost infinite life if looked after. Don't be tempted to under spec for cost. The stress on chains can be quite high, so spend the coin and over spec - the fatter the chain and meatier the hook the better IMHO.

Ralph

[Cobber]

I have both a strap and a chain, just in case I need to move something such as a tree out of the way (never had to at this point but it's nice to be prepared :D)

I definitely recommend a strap for recovery or towing a stricken vehicle as a chain is rather unforgiving whereas a strap makes it all easy. Granted a chain lasts longer but the links will stress eventually.

At the end of the day it's probably each to their own :)

[MR LR]

Here's an example from the harvest of 2010 (NSW - very wet season).

Small Fiat header was bogged (sitting on its belly), two tractors (a 4WD and a 2WD Dually) had drag chains hooked up, both tractors couldn't pull the ~10tonne header out.

Then borrowed a 40 tonne snatch strap from the neighbours.

The 4WD New Holland (140 HP) pulled the header out by itself with the snatch strap.

We then bought one, and the New Holland was capable of pulling out the bogged 25 tonne John Deere that belonged to the contractor. I recovered the JD on average 2 to 3 times a day (was 16 at the time) and learnt a lot about recovery using both drag chains and snatch straps.

They make a hell of a difference in small scale recovery, where big winches and huge anchors are unavailable, worked amazingly on the farm and they are fantastic in mud and sand.

DON'T drag with them though, and follow the correct safety procedures. A training course is the best thing. But they should only be used where a non-elastic strap is unsuitable.

Cheers
Will

[slug_burner]

A snatch strap comes into its own where there is limited grip for the towing vehicle to pull the casualty out. The strap being elastic allows you to store energy in it and then return it later hopefully to help you pull the casualty out.

If you have a winch and a means to anchor then you can get away without a snatch strap.

As said by others the snatch strap is a lot softer on the vehicles, also fairly easy to carry, quick to deploy and cheaper than most other alternatives.

[vnx205]

A snatch strap can be useful where the towing vehicle has very little traction.

For example, years ago before snatch straps were common, I had to use my '69 Crown to recover a bogged Falcon station wagon.

As we had been spotlighting, it was late at night, the long green grass was already wet with dew (or perhaps it was frost) and there was very little traction available.

We didn't have a snatch strap, but we did have a length of rope that was probably close to 50 metres long.

Even sisal, hemp or manilla rope that length has a bit of stretch, so when I moved off at a slow walking pace, the Falcon was eased up out of the bog without me even feeling the weight come on the rope.

I doubt a chain would have done the job as I could not have got any traction in the wet grass in a sedan with normal road tyres.

[CraigE]

Interesting about chains. This is not having a shot at anyone but I do have concerns with people promoting the use of chains for recovery. I have to ask "Does anyone using chains really know anything about recovery and swl of chains?" IMHO, no they dont or you would never use chains for recovery. I am guilty of using chains when I knew no better until I did a dogmans course and before snatch straps were available (nearly 30 years ago).
Do you know what your chains are rated too? Do you have them inspected regularly? Also chains are rated for lifting capacity only, not for shock loading.
Ever seen a chain let go? I have and I can assure you I would much rather a snatch strap let go. Chains should not even be used for towing as you can stretch or shock load in these circumstances.
Drag chains are a little different and used for slow loading applications, not general recovery.
I also see comments about snatch straps not lasting compared to chain. Chain integrity is supposed to checked and inspected every 3 months under AS regarding lifting equipment. Links stretch and chain does rust.
I have had one snatch strap for more than 10 years and it is still in good nick and completely usable after heaps of use. Like everything else it is about maintenance. I regularly clean mine in rope wash and if heavily stained scrub with wonder soap and inspect, same as all my ropes and slings.
Straps are cheaper as well. Anyone actually bought rated chain lately?
Then there is the downside if something goes wrong, no manufacturer will warrant their chain for recovery shock loading and if you injure someone you can be in a lot of trouble should a compensation case arise, due to misuse of its intended application.
Well these are my thoughts and knowledge, if you still intend using chain for recovery so be it.

[jonesfam]

That's why I'm asking.
I have always used chains, rated & checked, & I do find them very useful for towing, moving logs & so on but although I have used them a couple of times for recovery I'm trying to decide if a Snatch Strap would be better.
Yes a good rated chain & hooks is expensive but last forever if looked after but do not have that stored energy.
I have recovered in black mud (Gulf Country) with a chain but it took a few goes at different angles to get the Tojo out, I tried to recover a L/C tray back from sand with a chain & almost bogged myself + didn't get it out but a few weeks latter pulled a 2WD LowLux out of the same area with a chain.
Unfortunately I don't know much about Straps, I have seen them used which absolutely launched the car being recovered out of a tidal mud flat (I thought it was going to land on the pulling vehicle) but have no experience myself.
I has thinking about getting 1 but I would need to know more about using them. How heavy would the shackles need to be? I seem to think there is a special way to connect them? How fast do you pull? So on.
It would be difficult for me to do a course (where I live & I'm away at remote work a fair bit) hence I call upon the expertise of AULRO.
Jonesfam

[101RRS]

Chain or tow rope where a tow recovery will work OK (90% of recoveries). A snatch strap can also be used for a tow recovery.

Where a tow recovery will not work then a snatch recovery knowing the risks involved.

A snatch strap should not normally be used as a tow rope for a flat tow - it get damaged and will then be useless as a snatch strap and the elasticity of the snatch strap can cause issues as the strap stretches and pulls back.

Basically there is a time and place for both.

Garry

[AnD3rew]

A snatch strap is a relatively inexpensive and very effective recovery tool and not hard to use, you don't need to do a course, you can watch plenty of videos on utube if you want to see how is done.

You do need rated shackles, 2 one for each end, make sure you use proper recovery points on both the vehicles other wise you will find you still have a bogged vehicle and tow vehicle will have the non rated component coming through the back window or vice versa :o

As others have said very good for where the recovery vehicle also has a poor surface for traction and will give you more extractive ability than just a tow alone. I have a winch, but still wouldn't go on a beach or into mud without a snatch strap in my recovery bag. I actually have 2.

[barney]

The right tool for the job
Chains can do huge damage to a chassis and recovery points, great for wrapping around trees or things that dont have recovery points, but when you are recovering a vehicle using another vehicle, you need something to absorb the shock, a snatch strap will do this ascwell as storing kinetic energy from the motion of the tow car, increasing the pull effect on the vehicle being recovered.
Chains have their use, but this is not one of them. In all seriousness, you need both. Different items for different situations. With forces involved in a vehicle recovery, you really don't want to compromise. Get the right gear for the job, get quality gear or stay at home, the person you kill might be one of your mates.

[flagg]

... A cup of tea before recovery will increase the effectiveness (and safety...) of either.:eek:

People think I'm joking when i say this.. but I'm a firm believer in it!

[AnD3rew]

People think I'm joking when i say this.. but I'm a firm believer in it!

I can see the wisdom in this, unless of course you are blocking a track and there is a queue:angel:

[BMKal]

I can see the wisdom in this, unless of course you are blocking a track and there is a queue:angel:

.................. or the vehicle you're about to "recover" is sinking. :o

[Very_Disco]

People think I'm joking when i say this.. but I'm a firm believer in it!

I agree entirely. Worst case scenario, it doesn't help at all but then at least you've had a cup of tea.

[Dougal]

Here's an example from the harvest of 2010 (NSW - very wet season).

Small Fiat header was bogged (sitting on its belly), two tractors (a 4WD and a 2WD Dually) had drag chains hooked up, both tractors couldn't pull the ~10tonne header out.

Then borrowed a 40 tonne snatch strap from the neighbours.

The 4WD New Holland (140 HP) pulled the header out by itself with the snatch strap.

We then bought one, and the New Holland was capable of pulling out the bogged 25 tonne John Deere that belonged to the contractor. I recovered the JD on average 2 to 3 times a day (was 16 at the time) and learnt a lot about recovery using both drag chains and snatch straps.

They make a hell of a difference in small scale recovery, where big winches and huge anchors are unavailable, worked amazingly on the farm and they are fantastic in mud and sand.

DON'T drag with them though, and follow the correct safety procedures. A training course is the best thing. But they should only be used where a non-elastic strap is unsuitable.

Cheers
Will

I have almost identical stories. Even in very slow recoveries a snatch strap will outperform chains in every way.

[weeds]

I haven't needed my snatch strap since I upgraded to twin lockers and winch.........lol

I still carry my strap and a drag chain.....chains are pretty harsh when you are taking up the slack or the stuck vehicle makes slack on the chain

[isuzurover]

I carry a snatch strap and a chain.

The snatch strap gets used for vehicle recovery.
The chain gets used for all other tasks.

[CraigE]

I possibly should clarify a little. I would use chains and or wire rope for a winch type recovery or for dragging items. This is acceptable and what these were designed for. Still needs to be rated chain or wire rope and suitable for purpose. Unrated chain should never be used.
The snatch strap is for shock recovery and what it is intended for. Chain and wire rope or even plasma type rope is not intended for any type of shock loading. You may get away with it a few times, but you wont forever.
I carry 2 snatch straps and a hand Tirfor type winch with wire cable (PIA to use and slow). Most times either the snatch strap have sufficed for the recovery or the Maxtrax. Have only had the hand winch out in anger once.
I would suggest you buy a decent snatch strap, they are not expensive. Decent rated chain is expensive.

[Bardizzo]

I remember reading somewhere that after a specific number of uses a snatch strap should be discarded, 10 comes to mind. Not sure how true that is though. It could have been on that totally unbiased publication 4wd action!

[woody]

I can see the wisdom in this, unless of course you are blocking a track and there is a queue:angel:

maybe the cup of tea and thinking time should come before doing what is was that got you stuck ;)

woody

[vnx205]

Snatch straps have probably been given a bad name by the way the lead foot brigade use them.

I haven't used my snatch strap since I bought it a couple of years ago. However long before they became readily available, I used a length of thick, stretchy nylon rope to do the same job.

It was needed a few times back in the '70s on a trip from the Strzelecki Track to the Birdsville Track through the Cobber Desert. A Daihastu with a camper on the back didn't find it as easy as the two Land Rovers.

In each case only a tiny bit of momentum and less than half a metre of slack were needed, certainly nothing like the destructive, "rip, tear and bust" technique shown on innumerable video clips.

A snatch recovery, in a lot of situations but not all, can be a very gentle procedure. Maybe if it isn't going to be reasonably gentle, people should combine it with some other technique like a bit if shovel work to make it less aggressive.

[V8Ian]

Still needs to be rated chain or wire rope and suitable for purpose. Unrated chain should never be used.
Decent rated chain is expensive.

Can you tell me what the difference is?

[AnD3rew]

Can you tell me what the difference is?

Basically rated chain has a tested and known breaking strain/weight unrated is a gamble.

[V8Ian]

Basically rated chain has a tested and known breaking strain/weight unrated is a gamble.

I bought a length of 12mm herc alloy chain from a reputable supplier a couple of weeks ago. The requested length was cut, then I was asked if I wanted it rated for a considerable cost. So in my case, no difference.

[Davo]

Here's an example from the harvest of 2010 (NSW - very wet season).

Small Fiat header was bogged (sitting on its belly), two tractors (a 4WD and a 2WD Dually) had drag chains hooked up, both tractors couldn't pull the ~10tonne header out.

Then borrowed a 40 tonne snatch strap from the neighbours.

The 4WD New Holland (140 HP) pulled the header out by itself with the snatch strap.

We then bought one, and the New Holland was capable of pulling out the bogged 25 tonne John Deere that belonged to the contractor. I recovered the JD on average 2 to 3 times a day (was 16 at the time) and learnt a lot about recovery using both drag chains and snatch straps.

They make a hell of a difference in small scale recovery, where big winches and huge anchors are unavailable, worked amazingly on the farm and they are fantastic in mud and sand.

DON'T drag with them though, and follow the correct safety procedures. A training course is the best thing. But they should only be used where a non-elastic strap is unsuitable.

Cheers
Will


I have almost identical stories. Even in very slow recoveries a snatch strap will outperform chains in every way.

Snatch straps were developed for recovering armoured vehicles, so tractors aren't too far from the original spec.

KERR's (http://www.marlowropes.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=154&Itemid=164)

[Tank]

The problem I have with snatch straps is the amount of energy created in stretching (of the snatch strap) is an unknown. No two recoveries are alike and the misuse of shackles can make the shackle the weakest point in the recovery. The condition and strength of recovery points are unknown.
Case in point when a 15T GBS shackle parted in a recovery where the shackle was loaded sideways and the 8T GBS Snatch Strap survived intact.
Snatch straps are necessary in low traction (for the snatcher) situations and if used with commonsense and safety in mind are useful, but the number of deaths, injury and damage caused by snatch straps shows that there are many without commonsense or any idea of the potential for disaster.
A restraining strap/sling attached to the shackles at both ends should go a long way to reducing the risk in case of recovery point failure, which seems to be a major cause of of failure, you could use a tree protector strap or a winch extension strap doubled up or you could buy a couple of short (2M) straps for the job, Regards Frank.

[THE BOOGER]

I wonder what the rating of a snatch strap would have to be to recover an m1 at 68 tonnes if it was belly down in mud:eek:

[Slunnie]

Re your problems with snatch straps, these are not different to chains, except chains shock load which does more damage, but as you say, the flying broken points are a problem with straps. Love the idea of the restraining straps - perhaps a spliced loop of plasma to another point on the vehicle.

[Tank]

Re your problems with snatch straps, these are not different to chains, except chains shock load which does more damage, but as you say, the flying broken points are a problem with straps. Love the idea of the restraining straps - perhaps a spliced loop of plasma to another point on the vehicle.
You can just loop a winch extension strap over the diff housing, an extension strap or tree protector strap has some weight in it, unlike dyneema rope, which would slow down a flying recovery point a bit better than the Dyneema.
My problem with snatch straps as opposed to chains is that the energy built up in the strap can be minor or WTF, there are so many variables that it is impossible to predict how much enrgy is enough to do the job safely, it is hit and miss.
I only use a chain for snigging logs or debris off the track and only for towing if I have no other choice, Regards Frank.

[drivesafe]

Well over the years I originally used chains and then snatch straps and there is no way I will use chains again.

Up until about 2004, I had never even heard of snatch straps until a bunch of us organised to met up, after swapping info on AULRO. We met up at a quarry halfway between the Gold Coast and Beenleigh.

This not only lead to me witnessing them in use, for the first time, but the meet also eventually lead to the forming of the GCLRO Club, where I have had plenty of opportunities to rescue and be rescued, using snatch straps and they are by far much easier on the vehicles ( and the drivers ) and IMO are far less likely to break than chains.

For instance, not long after I bought my current RR, we were on a casual trip and, thanks to the crap tyres on my RR, I could not do one of the creek crossing. So I had to take a run at a slope on the other side of the creek and then get snatched over the top from there.

Someone in a Defender came to my rescue and attempted to snatch me up the bank, but on the first attempt, no matter how times he took up the slack and as hard as he tried, the Defender just couldn’t move me.

On the second attempt, I took the RR out of park and the Defender had no problem snatching me over the top of the bank.

I hate to think of the damage that would have been done if we were using a chain.

[THE BOOGER]

On the second attempt, I took the RR out of park and the Defender had no problem snatching me over the top of the bank.

:Rolling::Rolling::Rolling::Rolling::TakeABow:

[PhilipA]

Pretty common that one.
I now always try and remember to ask the driver is it in neutral with handbrake off via CB immediately before the snatch. I always try a very gentle snatch first time to ascertain how stuck, and I always warn the stuck guy when I am going to snatch and with how much force.

I prefer this with a snatch while with a winch I will ask the wincher whether he prefers me to assist or leave in neutral . If assist OK I use just a tiny bit of power so that I don't overrun the rope.

Regards Philip A

[Dougal]

The problem I have with snatch straps is the amount of energy created in stretching (of the snatch strap) is an unknown.

Energy = 1/2 mass * velocity squared. Twice the speed on the towing vehicle gives four times the energy.

Force involved will be closely related to the stretch in the strap.
Energy involved is 1/2k * strap extension squared. K is the stiffness of the strap.
If you get twice the strap stretch, then you've got twice the force but four times the energy working to extract the vehicle.

This is why snatch straps are much more effective at recovery than chains. They store energy and can give it back with a more constant force when the stuck vehicle needs it. Chains don't store much energy and just transmit shock loads.

First pull in low first at idle and see if it comes out. Work from there taking all usual precautions and re-evaluate if it's not working.

[drivesafe]

I now always try and remember to ask the driver is it in neutral with handbrake off via CB immediately before the snatch.

So do I.

It’s just that I forgot to ask myself had I taken it out of park.

[Saitch]

One thing I don't think has been mentioned with regard to straps is relative weight of snatcher & snatchee vehicles. Quite relevant in a lot of situations! Also, I've seen some recovery vehicles take off at a million miles an hour with about 3/4 or more of the strap slack. Not a good technique in my book.
I've probably done 20-30 recoveries with a strap (99% sand) & only needed a metre or so of slack.
P.S. I still carry a 30m rated chain for log/fallen tree removal.

[MR LR]

To pull a 25 ton Header out with a 6 ton tractor the max we backed up was half the strap, however there was little traction.

So that might give some people an idea of what a snatch strap can do!!

[Loubrey]

Guys,

There doesn't seem to be any differentiation between towing with either a chain or sling/ strop/ strap and doing a kinetic recovery with a snatch strap.

Inherently the heading is therefore contradictory because recovery technique is obviously completely different and there is no point in asking whether you prefer recovery with a chain or a snatch strap...

I have both a towing strap and a snatch strap in my kit and 99% of recovery is done with the towing strap. My snatch strap is a good quality ARB one that lives in a waterproof bag and is only taken out if every other recovery technique (bar winching) has failed.

The snatch is obviously a very volatile recovery technique with a host of safety precautions and should really not be someones default in recovery techniques. Attempting a snatch with a tow strap is obviously as detrimental and a number of the videos on you tube is clearly people trying a snatch style recovery with a tow strap...

Cheers,

Lou

[Dougal]

I have both a towing strap and a snatch strap in my kit and 99% of recovery is done with the towing strap. My snatch strap is a good quality ARB one that lives in a waterproof bag and is only taken out if every other recovery technique (bar winching) has failed.

That's a really hard and slow way to recover. I start with a simple tow with a snatch strap (i.e. no run-up).
This is much more effective than a rigid tow strap, just as safe and avoids a lot of mucking around.

I also carry a tow-strap. But I've only ever used it for towing disabled vehicles. Not recovery as it's pointless for that.

[Loubrey]

Dougal,

Everyone entitled to their own view and obviously you can use your equipment and vehicle as you see fit.

My opinion is however based on extensive training received while doing National Service in the SADF and protocol determined that non kinetic recovery needs to be attempted before kinetic equipment is used. Snatching a 19 ton IFV (empty weight) with a second one is a VERY violent operation and almost inevitably leads to a rear end collision of varying degree. Link to the vehicles I refer to...

Ratel IFV - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

I've employed this training and experience in my 20 odd years of recreational and competition off road driving and it's worked fine for me. I've also taught these principles while being club training officer at previous Land Rover clubs as every recovery is different and should be assessed on its individual merits.

Rushing in with default preconceived ideas is a fine way to get people hurt and vehicles damaged.

Cheers,

Lou

[isuzurover]

...SADF and protocol determined that non kinetic recovery needs to be attempted before kinetic equipment is used. ...

Protocol determined by a committee over 50 years ago for a completely different class of vehicle to that which we are (mainly) talking about here...

[MR LR]

Snatching a 19 ton IFV (empty weight) with a second one is a VERY violent operation and almost inevitably leads to a rear end collision of varying degree.

Cheers,

Lou

Maybe a slightly longer snatch strap, or a little less right foot would be a good idea ;)

I did over 100 recoveries during the 2010 Harvest, and have done many more in recreational 4WDing and not once did either machine come close together, let alone anywhere near hitting.

We used the speed we needed, held a low gear and just towed, initially the strap stretches and then pops the header out, we then kept constant throttle and towed the header until it stopped sinking (this opposes what most say about just bouncing on the strap and letting it pop out).

Cheers
Will

[Loubrey]

I agree with both you guys and I've never had a recovery related collision on a 4WD vehicle either. I was just using the military vehicles as an example of the forces involved with kinetic recovery. The protocols are obviously varied for different classes of vehicle, but I was taught (and therefore it remains my opinion) to assess every recovery on its merits and if you can avoid the stresses of a kinetic recovery it would be prudent to do so.

Obviously you guys have been off road driving long enough to amass significant experience in recovery and the intention is not preaching to the converted or insulting the educated.

My point is purely that a lot of young inexperienced guys are getting to think (reinforced by marketing and popular media) that snatch recovery is the only way to do get even a slightly bogged vehicle unstuck, hence some of the insane You Tube videos posted here.

If we can pass on the knowledge that a bit of shovel work and a gentle tow with a non-kinetic (or kinetic if you chose to do so) recovery strap is often enough to get most vehicles unstuck. There are many misconceptions about the topic and Will's comment about his method (which obviously works) being different from main stream opinion.

Cheers,

Lou

[isuzurover]

...

If we can pass on the knowledge that a bit of shovel work and a gentle tow with a non-kinetic (or kinetic if you chose to) recovery strap is often enough to get most vehicles unstuck, our chosen recreational activity would hopefully be safer than the current public perception...

...

I don't disagree, but how many people own their own tow strap??? It is hard enough to get everyone to carry a snatch strap in good condition. I know that in the LROCB the club owned a 30m tow strap and one or two other members in a club of ~100+ had one of their own.

Better just to teach them to recover as slowly as possible with a snatch strap (i.e. 1st low and just off idle as a first try), and then only go faster if the situation demands it.

I think the shovel must be a west coast/sand thing. It is pretty easy to see if the diffs (etc) are obstructed so you need a shovel. If not, a shovel won't help. Tracks should be left as close as possible to how you found them, not smoothed out so the lowest common denominator can get through unaided!

[Dougal]

Dougal,

Everyone entitled to their own view and obviously you can use your equipment and vehicle as you see fit.

My opinion is however based on extensive training received while doing National Service in the SADF and protocol determined that non kinetic recovery needs to be attempted before kinetic equipment is used. Snatching a 19 ton IFV (empty weight) with a second one is a VERY violent operation and almost inevitably leads to a rear end collision of varying degree.

A recovery using a snatch strap does not have to be a snatch recovery. That's the point I'm trying to get across. They are as gentle or as violent as the drivers involved.

Anything approaching a rear end collision is a serious screw up.