Wow I bought a Dud Disco 1!

[oversite]

Well I just bought a Disco 1 of ebay and I think I got a dud. it's a '94, 3.9L V8 with an auto

If anyone can help with any of these problems that would be great

Engine lost power twice? it was like the revs dropped and power was nonexistent, it was a steep hill the second time and I continued up the hill without stopping but I dropped to 50kph??? Is this an engine computer issue or a gearbox problem?

The heater doesn't work and it looks like it has been disconnected, under the bonnet there are heater hoses that are disconnected and others are folded back to close the circuit? There is also moisture under the carpet on the passenger side making me think that the heater core is leaking????

The drivers and passenger seats are dead, no padding left!

There are also a few other things like rust spots, brakes pull to the right and the fan belt squeaks.

Seriously any advice appreciated!

The moral of the story is that if you cant see it dont buy it!
:(

[Eevo]

Is this an engine computer issue or a gearbox problem?


could be fuel starvation from being on a steep hill

[oversite]

Thanks evao, I though about that as I was low on fuel at the time but then it happened another time on flat ground with a very full tank, Im a little worried that the gearbox is going?

[wrinklearthur]

Your wheel bearing may be shot, that would cause drag on the brakes and then the brakes will pull one way as well.

All sorts of things can go wrong with transmissions, so smell the fluid on the dip stick for the auto, if it stinks like it is burnt then I would be asking want to do with that on here again.

It's maybe starving for fuel so do a check for fuel pressure.

If you can't afford to throw buckets of money at your bus, then just keep your focus and work your way through each problem as you come to it.
.

[isuzurover]

Did you inspect the vehicle before purchase???

It is fairly common to find D1s with a leaking heater matrix which was disconnected instead of dismantling the dash/console to replace it. It is a relatively easy (if time consuming) fix. Heater matrix is cheapest ex-UK.

[mudmouse]

I've got a driver and passenger seat (two blue '91 or two grey '98) you can have...free.

PM me if you're interested.

Matt.

[oversite]

Thanks guys,

I will pull the front wheels off and check out the brakes and bearings tomorrow.

How do I check for fuel pressure?

Thanks matt, I will message you

[justinc]

The slowing on hills/ under load could be sticking exhaust valves, Check/ Rule out a blocked fuel filter, and the fuel pressure and delivery volume first, though.

JC

[joel0407]

Nah, thats not a dud. That's just Land Rover.

[dullbird]

The slowing on hills/ under load could be sticking exhaust valves, Check/ Rule out a blocked fuel filter, and the fuel pressure and delivery volume first, though.

JC

Perhaps an Idea to give the thing a complete service maybe??? including gearbox just to make sure everything is as it should be so can be ruled out of the fault finding.

[THE BOOGER]

Where in nsw are you? if your close somebody might be able to look at it with you and narrow down some of the problems:)

[oversite]

Thanks guys,

Im in Armidale. But Im going to have a bit of a go myself. I think I will be able to get through most of the problems myself, except the engine/transmission issue which has me worried.

I will push through a service this week and replace all fluids. Just a question the square inward bolts on the diffs and transmission? where would I get the appropriate tool?

Thanks again for all your advice!

[mudmouse]

I think a 1/2 inch drive socket set should do it - just the tool without the socket on it.

Matt.

[loanrangie]

How many k's on the clock ? If its done over 250k its possible the cam/ lifters need replacing, being EFI you wont get fuel starvation on inclines unless you are really low on fuel . Fuel pump issue would show itself on flat ground as well.

What on earth possessed you buy a vehicle unseen and from ebay of all places ? , i seriously hope it was cheap.

[p38arover]

Engine lost power twice? it was like the revs dropped and power was nonexistent, it was a steep hill the second time and I continued up the hill without stopping but I dropped to 50kph??? Is this an engine computer issue or a gearbox problem?


They don't have an engine computer.




The drivers and passenger seats are dead, no padding left!
:(

Probably failed rubber diaphragm under the seat

See http://www.aulro.com/afvb/discovery-1/146655-disco-1-seat-springs.html#post1648781

[oversite]

it wasnt as cheap as I would have liked. unfortunitly I needed a car ASAP and the seller was a little flexable with the truth.

270,000ks on the clock with a service history

I have found something else the engine fan is wired to a switch next to the key, In your opnions would this be a sign that this is the only switch or in addition to a thermo switch?

[p38arover]

The fan should also turn on on when the air con is running - if it's the same as my old Rangie.

[101RRS]

They don't have an engine computer.

Hi Ron - yes they do - lives up in the drivers footwell up high behind the kick panel. Though I doubt this is the cause of the engine problems.

Most likely needs a good tune up - a new fuel filter (drivers side rear wheel well), new plugs, leads, cap and rotor (genuine lucas only - aftermarket fail in 3 month).

If missing etc going up hill - so under load and getting a bit hot in the engine valley - the ignition module could be breaking down with the heat.

I had all these issues with my top condition 94 Disco and it was only 100,000km.

Garry

[oversite]

Thanks Gary,

The owner claimed (maybe bull****) that it had a new transmission (exchange), new distributer (looks new), leads/plugs (dont look new) air filter new fuel pump and a fuel regulator.

I will replace the plugs and do a solid service (oil, filter and fuel filter) and see if that helps.

[thevroomroom@bigpond.com]

Don't worry mate, your a brave man for buying a motor sight unseen so your a natural landy owner. Any tools you need to do even a major service are available from any motor spares shop (or even bunnings). We use penrite oils and they have a website for qtys and type of oils your car will need, most other manufacturers have the same set up, just google them.

Have you heard of RAVE? Available from almost anywhere on the net for free, its a comprehensive step by step guide to everything Landrover, well worth a look. Ignition side of things has caused us the most grief. again, loads of help on this site. Vac advance ok?
Check fuel pressure on the fuel rail. It looks like a tyre inflation connection on a metal pipe running around the central alloy casting (plenum chamber) , I bought a simple pressure gauge kit for $70 but I've heard of people using a tyre gauge, not sure how safe that would be though.

Is you landy an auto? If so, well worth changing the filter / fluid. $80 for a kit, you'd need approx. 8 litres fluid. Rovacraft (here in WA anyway) are very good for parts. Just make sure you use the right oils for the job.

Good luck with it, it'll be worth the effort.

[DiscoMick]

As others have said, a full set of oils and filters (air, fuel, oil) would certainly be a good start to getting it going better.

If the carpet is wet you should pull it up and check for rust in the floor on both sides.

[oversite]

Hi all,

I have had some more experiences with the engine power loss issue.

It has happened on flat ground and hills, both engine hot and warm.
full tank of fuel and low fuel.

What seams to happen is the revs drop and the power dissapears? at idle the engine revs drop to <500rpm and it feels like its going to stall out (but doesnt)
foot to the floor down main street, I couldnt brake 50kph?
This time I pulled over and turned the car off and restarted and it was fine again? but the other day after I turned the car off after loosing power and it wouldnt start for a few minutes??

This is starting to seriously worry me, if anyone has any advice as to where to look? or what to test would be great!!

[justinc]

Sounds like a fuel pressure problem to me if doing it on the flat aswell. This virtually rules out valves etc as the culprit. The best way to test this is as mentioned you have a schrader valve on the fuel rail as a test port, so you will need a fuel pressure gauge with a decent length of pipe, fit it to the test port and bring it out from under the bonnet, shut the bonnet and go for a drive around with it zip tied to a wiper arm. See what the fuel pressure says when faulting. (I have done this before to attempt to locate intermittent faults like this)

Another possible suspect other than the pump itself is maybe the wiring plug/ connector on the fuel pump on top of the tank (Accessed through the floor inspection hatch under rear carpet) as they are renowned for poor connection and overheating, causing volt drop and low pump outputs.

JC

[loanrangie]

JC, could the ignition module cause symptoms like this ?

[justinc]

Usually the ignition module fault consists of no spark, or spark, nothing in between. However, a weak/ intermittent spark will hamper cold starts, this can be the beginnings of module, wiring or coil problems.

The other big contributing factor for the 14CUX ( hotwire AFM) injected engines is they require excellent battery voltages and spark plugs/ leads in order to start 'cleanly' cold. Some are prone to flooding from very cold starts if these aren't up to scratch. Usually this is only a problem if started and stopped without driving it for a bit, ie moving around in the driveway etc.


Some other faults I have come across have been the pickup coil in the distributor, when the engine gets to operating temp, the actual pickup coil can get open circuited OR excessive resistance and just plain fails to send a trigger output signal. On the later disco1 the module is quite a way away from heat,(Behind LH headlamp area) and is earthed really well, too.

JC

[jtktread]

Ignition module. This is exactly what mine was doing. I did beeuties? Bosch conversion which solved it immediately. Next I cleaned all the electrical connections -maf especially -which also made a lot of difference to economy.
John

[oversite]

Thanks guys,

Where is the best place to get an ignition module?
is it a DIY job?
how $$$$ for the module?

Thanks again for all your advice!

[jtktread]

Try this:

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/technical-chatter/96950-lucas-ignition-amplifier-replacement-bosch-024-a.html

This outlines the conversion. Not that costly if you do it yourself - depends on how handy you are. However, well worth the money to pay an auto electrician to get rid of the head ache.

Also, as others have said: If you have no previous Land Rover experience it may pay to spend a few hundred and get the car a full service by an independent Land Rover specialist (the dealer won't know his arse from his elbow with an early discovery). They will tell you what is right and what is wrong.

Don't give up, they are a great car when running right but they are a Land Rover which means you will be turning spanners on them far more often than others.

John

[oversite]

I dont really want to do the whole conversion, I just want to replace the module to see if it will solve my problem.

Im no ready to commit to much here I have already spend more then I wanted!

[Homestar]

I dont really want to do the whole conversion, I just want to replace the module to see if it will solve my problem.

Im no ready to commit to much here I have already spend more then I wanted!

Doing the conversion to the Bosch module will probably be cheaper than replacing the factory module. If you go to a wreckers you can get the parts for a few bucks. IIRC I grabbed one out of a rusted out Camira - they let me have it for $5. I had a suitable coil at home, but if you bought both, it may run to $10...

They were used in Commodores and Falcons as well. Or buy a new one from flea bay -http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Ignition-Module-Toyota-Ford-Holden-Mitsubishi-Replaces-Bosch-BIM-024-NEW-/111068789475?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item19dc373ae3&_uhb=1

It is a simple and cheap conversion - even if it is not ultimately the main problem, you will end up with a smoother running engine doing this - it really is a noticeable change.

Cheers - Gav

[oversite]

Thanks Gav,

So I just need a coil and an ignition module of a commodore/falcon, which models?

Thanks for the help, I a bit new to this kind of electrical system!

[Homestar]

Thanks Gav,

So I just need a coil and an ignition module of a commodore/falcon, which models?

Thanks for the help, I a bit new to this kind of electrical system!

No dramas, we are all here to help each other. I think most early to mid 80's commodores had them IIRC, along with Falcons, Toyotas, Mitsubishi's - someone may be able to clarify, but they were widely used for a while and there are stacks of them around. I've never heard of one failing so a second hand one would be a safe bet IMO.

If you have a local pick a part or similar wreckers in your area, go and have a look under the bonnet of a few - the BIM024 is easy to spot.

It looks like this:-
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/

It should be mounted to a plate or heatsink - grab that as well. Once you have the parts in hand, follow Bee Utey's guide to instal it. It isn't too hard, and there are plenty here that have done it and guide you through.:)

Cheers - Gav

[OlliesLRover]

Mate, this sounds so much like the problem I had with mine - do a google search (bottom left of page) for Crank Angle Sensor (I don't know how to link to it).

I don't know how much it cost me in time/money/frustration to fix a $30 problem (engine temp sensor) .

Where abouts in NSW are you as I have a spare ignition module you can try if close

[oversite]

Thanks ollies,

I am in Armidale, north west NSW. I will look into that too !

[101RRS]

Thanks ollies,

I am in Armidale, north west NSW.

Well actually Armidale is in the North East of NSW.

[evans52]

Try this:

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/technical-chatter/96950-lucas-ignition-amplifier-replacement-bosch-024-a.html

This outlines the conversion. Not that costly if you do it yourself - depends on how handy you are. However, well worth the money to pay an auto electrician to get rid of the head ache.

Also, as others have said: If you have no previous Land Rover experience it may pay to spend a few hundred and get the car a full service by an independent Land Rover specialist (the dealer won't know his arse from his elbow with an early discovery). They will tell you what is right and what is wrong.

Don't give up, they are a great car when running right but they are a Land Rover which means you will be turning spanners on them far more often than others.

John

Oversite - I have just recently followed this exact conversion for our '94 Disco as we had the exact problem you're having. It is easy to do, HOWEVER, the only problem I encountered was the timing as I had to take the dizzy out to access the module. If you have timing lights and can set the timing on a car (not like me!) it's an easy job. I highly recommend the conversion. If you do it yourself, the module also needs to be earthed.

My total cost was $120. I bought a new coil and module - $95 for the both from AutoPro. And $15 for a six pack of beer. I had a module and coil lying around but I think the coil was faulty. I ended up buying a new module and coil - fixed. At least buying new, you have piece of mind they will work.

Again, the exact description you've got of your problem is what we had and it's now solved. We've now got other problems not associated with this fix. But like JTK said "they are a great car when running right but they are a Land Rover which means you will be turning spanners on them far more often than others."

** I should add - the $120 was the cost if I had done the whole job myself. The car ended up at the Mechanics to fix the timing for me. I was out of my depth with that one. Even after marking the position and being careful with the distributor when i took it out. Add another few hundred $$ to it. My advice if you can't do it yourself. Print off the plans, give it to an Auto Electrician and say "Do this please" should take a good honest one no more than a couple of hours.

[bee utey]

No dramas, we are all here to help each other. I think most early to mid 80's commodores had them IIRC, along with Falcons, Toyotas, Mitsubishi's - someone may be able to clarify, but they were widely used for a while and there are stacks of them around. I've never heard of one failing so a second hand one would be a safe bet IMO.

If you have a local pick a part or similar wreckers in your area, go and have a look under the bonnet of a few - the BIM024 is easy to spot.

It looks like this:-
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=61943&d=1371619051

It should be mounted to a plate or heatsink - grab that as well. Once you have the parts in hand, follow Bee Utey's guide to instal it. It isn't too hard, and there are plenty here that have done it and guide you through.:)

Cheers - Gav
The BIM024 is rarely found naked on a heatsink. It is usually found under a tin lid on the side of a Bosch distributor mainly on early to mid 80s carburettor vehicles. Heat sinks off the early camiras are ideal but getting hard to find. Some Pulsars had a suitable heat sink too. I now make my own out of 50 x 25 x 3mm ally channel.

[wally~e28]

A note regarding the BIM modules (excellent mod, thanks again bee utey for documenting it).

The coil you use with a BIM module is important. If you try and reuse the coil from the landrover electronic ignition (as i did...), the resistance of the coil is incorrect and you end up with a get-one-free bonus rev limiter at ~2000rpm.

You can either check the resistance of the used coil from your parts box, or make sure you get both the BIM module and its matching coil from your donor parts car.

Best of luck with your new disco.:)

Lots of discussion on the modules in this thread.
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/technical-chatter/96950-lucas-ignition-amplifier-replacement-bosch-024-a-13.html

[oversite]

so the power loss happened again and this time it killed the engine!

So I have ordered a replacement ignition module from the net and Im hopeing that this is the end of this damn problem!:censored::censored::censored::censored::c ensored:

[101RRS]

Check the connector on the MAF. My brand new 94 V8 used to stop by itself when new - dealer could not fix it and I was there when the LR rep came to review the problem - he disconnected the connector to the MAP, pulled out his pen and bent the contacts - then worked fine. LR knew of the problem but did not announce it - the supplier of the connector had some dud contacts that suffered metal fatigue and lost contact. Problem continued for a while until I got an auto elect to change the plug - no further problems.

Garry

[seriesLR]

Air flow Meter will cause loss of power. This would be the first thing I would check as it's more common than a dodgy fuel system or ignition.

The early 94' 3.9L engines (with the Alt on the side) had a factory fault where a dry solder would kill the signal from the Meter. You can resolder or replace your choice, both are cheap.

[JamesB71]

Only my opinion, and Im only a home mechanic, not a real one so, with that disclaimer and a pinch of salt...

I always start cheap. Fuel filter and plugs would be my first port of call. Then compression. Does it blow smoke when its cold? hot? What colour?

[oversite]

Thanks for the advice guys,

Fuel filter is done, plugs and leads are done, all sensors have been looked at and cleaned.

Hopefully the new ignition module will solve this issue and then I can move on and do some distance driving!

[bmw535guy]

mate dont stress, it will be fine ;)
I got mine on ebay (after checking it and knowing transfer case was stuffed), and found following issues on top:
1. front diff stuffed centre (with metal particles), replaced with good second hand diff for 250 ( and saturday of heavy lifting)
2. Injector pump leaking (mechanic 350)
3. Power steering box leaking (125 bucks and weekend)
4. Front driveshaft seized (85 bucks and 20minutes)
5. front brake hoses stuffed (130 bucks and custom made braided from uk delivered)
6. Steering wheel stuffed (160 delivered sports from uk)
7. Tyres stuffed (350 for second hand mags and trip to ballarat)
Not to mention little things like bearings which were easy and very cheap. But basically if i wanted to buy one in as good nick i would be hard pressed as everything works perfect and no oil leaks what so ever (i know i know give it a weak or two but :p for now hahaha).

[oversite]

Hi Guys,

I found a guy locally with a wreck.

Do you think that If I replace the whole distributor assembly it will fix my problem?

I figure that with the pump/filter done and the leads and plugs done the problem must be with something in the distributor assembly?

Im also pinching the seats a mine are dead!

Any ideas or other parts I should snap up?

[wrinklearthur]

I found a guy locally with a wreck.
Any ideas or other parts I should snap up?

The door lock actuators, window registers, door mirrors, left and right headlights and ( if you haven't already got the the ones with the integral indicator lights ) tail light assemblies with a long portion of the wiring to suit,

[steelo]

Roof lining, centre console, steering wheel

[Gary S11]

Grab the whole thing, you'll probably need all of it adventually. :-(