Puma Radiator Options

[chook73]

After being told they were in stock in November and then waiting patiently until now I have pretty well given up on Allisport to supply an upgraded radiator....

What other options are out there for high capacity alloy radiators for the Pumas?

Anyone had any bad experiences with any brands?

[redrovertdi]

Try allards, they seem to match allisport in products

[chook73]

Try allards, they seem to match allisport in products

Thanks, do you have a weblink for them? They dont seem to be coming up in Google?

[Iain_B]

PWR up here in Brisbane can do a custom built radiator for around the same price as the Alisport one. They say they have a dimensions etc already on file from previous customers.

[redrovertdi]

www.allardmotorcompany.com (http://www.allardaliminiumproducts)

[Bush65]

I have no experience with them, but the name aussie desert coolers (http://www.aussiedesertcooler.com.au/) comes up from time when people are after custom high performance radiators.

PWR (http://www.pwr.com.au/) as mentioned before. They are a leading manufacturer of performance radiators and intercoolers, arguably better renowned around the world than Allard or Allisport.

[Gerokent]

I was in touch with PWR a month or so ago RE replacement radiator (with built in electric fans), they said they needed my original to copy. Unfortunatly mine is my daily driver and couldn't send it to them.
It would be great to get rid of the belt drive fan and HUGE shroud to free up some room under the bonnet.
I have had the shroud removed for a couple of years with little detremental effect. I've had it go into derate on hot days in soft sand after a fair bit of work, but turning the heater on helps.

[Iain_B]

Getting my Defender ready for our next trip - an it's quite a big one. 10 weeks ( or more) and around 20,000km to WA and back - Up to Cairns, then across the Savannah way, up to Gove, back to Katherine, down the Gibb River Road, the down to Monkey Mia, then across to Laveton, then along the Anne Beadell Highway to Cooperpedy, then back up to Uluru, back across the Simpson to Birdsville, then down the Birdsville track to Marree, and up the Strezleki track to Cameron Corner, then back home to Brisbane.

I'm thinking about upgrading the radiator so I just contacted PWR for a price for a radiator, they told me the same thing as Gerokent, they need the OEM one.

I remember someone posting that they bought one off PWR, and the guy I spoke seem to recall it, but says he needs the invoice no. so he can find the details. Anyone know who bought one off PWR?

I've also contacted Davis Performance, PWR think they have made Defender radiators for them as well.

Alternative is if anyone has a spare OEM one hanging around I could borrow for a week or two.

Iain, would you be interested in a group buy if we can get this sorted? Might be able to get a better price for two or more than just one.

[chook73]

Getting my Defender ready for our next trip - an it's quite a big one. 10 weeks ( or more) and around 20,000km to WA and back - Up to Cairns, then across the Savannah way, up to Gove, back to Katherine, down the Gibb River Road, the down to Monkey Mia, then across to Laveton, then along the Anne Beadell Highway to Cooperpedy, then back up to Uluru, back across the Simpson to Birdsville, then down the Birdsville track to Marree, and up the Strezleki track to Cameron Corner, then back home to Brisbane.

I'm thinking about upgrading the radiator so I just contacted PWR for a price for a radiator, they told me the same thing as Gerokent, they need the OEM one.

I remember someone posting that they bought one off PWR, and the guy I spoke seem to recall it, but says he needs the invoice no. so he can find the details. Anyone know who bought one off PWR?

I've also contacted Davis Performance, PWR think they have made Defender radiators for them as well.

Alternative is if anyone has a spare OEM one hanging around I could borrow for a week or two.

Iain, would you be interested in a group buy if we can get this sorted? Might be able to get a better price for two or more than just one.

Yep I am in if we can find an oem one. I just tried brad at klr and he doesn't have one but is going to ask around.

[chook73]

It was dockstrada who posted in the puma performance upgrades thread

I have just bought a 55mm radiator from PWR, it will be installed later this month together with an intercooler from Bruce Davis who just remapped my ECU

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/showthread.php't=129134

[Iain_B]

Anyone looked into these alternatives to bigger radiators?

Waterless Coolants for Classic, Vintage and High Performance cars (http://www.evanscoolants.com.au/all-automotive-products.html)

Waterless Coolant | car radiator coolant|radiator coolant flush (http://liquidintelligence115.com.au/)

I'd like to see some back to back actual temperature comparisons our ECU's will still shut down on 115 degrees regardless of whether the coolant is boiling or not.

Cost of the replacement coolant and all the pre-cleaners would be around $400 with a bit spare for just in case.

[Hannah110]

I'd be happy to order both an upgraded radiator and intercooler if PWR got on board.

[PAT303]

Are you guys having heating issue's?,mines seen 50 plus degree's,my thermometer only goes to 50 and my coolant temp only got to 100 and that was fighting the dunes on the canning at wells 30 and up.I would look and airflow through the original,some gills at the rear of the front guards and no spotties etc at the front. Pat

[Gerokent]

I have had only slight overheating probs in heavy sand, but takes a while to derate. This is with no fan shroud. I would like to replace plastic radiator with aliminuim one with built-in electric fans to free up an acre of room under the bonnet. One day

[chook73]

Are you guys having heating issue's?,mines seen 50 plus degree's,my thermometer only goes to 50 and my coolant temp only got to 100 and that was fighting the dunes on the canning at wells 30 and up.I would look and airflow through the original,some gills at the rear of the front guards and no spotties etc at the front. Pat

I have big heating issues but then again I have a large intercooler, spotlights, portal axles, 35's and a performance chip........:angel:

[Iain_B]

I don't have any problems at low speed, deep sand etc, my problem come with trying to hold 100kph in 30kph headwinds uphill with a full 1000kg load, 33's, roof top tent etc when its 40-50 degrees. :)

[n plus one]

I have big heating issues but then again I have a large intercooler, spotlights, portal axles, 35's and a performance chip........:angel:

I know I'm not quite where you are re mods, but I'm running a remap, big intercooler, 34 inch mud tyres, lifted, spotties and a winch solenoid box in front of the grill, and almost never go anywhere at much less than max gvm (lr fuel tank, 100 litres of water tanks, bar, winch, drawers, fridge, 2 spares, wheel carrier, dual bats, expedition rack, rtt, etc, etc, etc) and I have no heating issues at all (based on scanguage readings)?

I drive it hard enough to hold off the v8 cruisers and temp rarely exceeds 100 degrees - seems a little weird?

[chook73]

I know I'm not quite where you are re mods, but I'm running a remap, big intercooler, 34 inch mud tyres, lifted, spotties and a winch solenoid box in front of the grill, and almost never go anywhere at much less than max gvm (lr fuel tank, 100 litres of water tanks, bar, winch, drawers, fridge, 2 spares, wheel carrier, dual bats, expedition rack, rtt, etc, etc, etc) and I have no heating issues at all (based on scanguage readings)?

I drive it hard enough to hold off the v8 cruisers and temp rarely exceeds 100 degrees - seems a little weird?

Seems very weird......

[Brid]

It's probably worth mentioning here that there are alternative coolant options that reduce operating temperature compared to normal glycol type coolants. Drops of 10-15 deg C are frequently reported, and in probably most cases would be all people need. (NB. I need to disclose here that we do on-sell one such product ourselves, but there are likely others as well that people could source.)

I'm not trying to flog product here, rather make people aware that if extreme operation is causing temperature problems (rather than cooling system defects), it may not be necessary to migrate to larger radiators.

With such products, you need to investigate if they provide all the necessary protection to components, and what you need to do, if you need antifreeze protection as well.

[chook73]

Well what might hopefully be a change in my luck, Andrew from Allisport just called and my radiator is ready and being shipped today.

So if you want an Allisport Radiator they are making them right now so give him a call......

In a month or so I am happy to offer my stock radiator if someone would like to send it to PWR to copy as long as I get it back and its picked up and returned to me.

[Drover]

Good stuff Iain,
"Cool runnings" coming up

[chook73]

Good stuff Iain,
"Cool runnings" coming up

Here is hoping!

[landybehr]

What are you going to use the space for that the radiator shroud uses?

[chook73]

Probably just trim the shroud but not sure to be honest.

[landybehr]

Ah .. ok :)

I have plans, for later (when everything else has been "modded" and the guarantee has run out) to move all the radiators back by one inch or the other - so that my Aircon equipped Defender has the same flush front as the standard vehicles. I will the be able to work with the towing pin of the military bumper then.

But until that time, the shroud does no harm to me. Converting to elect. fans will cost money I need elsewhere for the time being.

[The Cone of Silence]

Chook, let us know how you go with the new radiator.

I'm thinking about upgrading as I still get overheating with even a medium load when climbing...I also have the Allisport intercooler, driving lights and a winch blocking the way!

Bobby

[chook73]

Chook, let us know how you go with the new radiator.

I'm thinking about upgrading as I still get overheating with even a medium load when climbing...I also have the Allisport intercooler, driving lights and a winch blocking the way!

Bobby

With 9,000km on the new radiator I have to say I am very un-impressed with the difference. I have ended up pulling off my spotlights to try and bring the temps down (which it did).

The difference between the stock radiator and the ali-sport was slightly noticeable but negligible, pulling up the hill at Orimbah I still have no problem hitting 110 at 90km/h and that goes even without the spotlights.

The other thing is that it turned up with the bottom pipe at the wrong angle so the guys had to space the radiator and intercooler to fit them properly.....

My feedback would be not worth the money :no2: and I will now be looking at other ways to bring the temps down before summer.......

[chook73]

With 9,000km on the new radiator I have to say I am very un-impressed with the difference. I have ended up pulling off my spotlights to try and bring the temps down (which it did).

The difference between the stock radiator and the ali-sport was slightly noticeable but negligible, pulling up the hill at Orimbah I still have no problem hitting 110 at 90km/h and that goes even without the spotlights.

The other thing is that it turned up with the bottom pipe at the wrong angle so the guys had to space the radiator and intercooler to fit them properly.....

My feedback would be not worth the money :no2: and I will now be looking at other ways to bring the temps down before summer.......

64394

This is an upload from my phone, its the bottom pipe on the allisport radiator when fitted with the allisport intercooler. I called Andrew about it and he wants me to send the radiator back which I didn't have time to do before I left.

[uninformed]

get the grinder and holesaws out ;)

[redrovertdi]

This may be relevent or not to some being as 110 300tdi with full front intercooler[allards] and larger radiator[allisport] and auto transmission cooler inbetween, i run twin thermo VT coomodore fans with a thermo switch and a manual over ride switch on my dash, my biggest cooling problem was my KBX grill- i eventually cut all the cross bars out of it so it is now a frame with mesh, i also run spot lights a warn winch with out the solinoid box above blocking air, when climbing a big hill with a heavy work trailer i flick on the fans and it keeps me under 100c, i have 2 temp guages[vdo] one in the original and one in the head. The commodore fans pull much more air than the rubbishy pwr aftermarket fans ive tried[built for Australian conditions and approx $50 at a wreckers].

[The Cone of Silence]

Chook,

Sorry to hear that the difference is so slight...I guess I'll save a few bucks not bothering with this change.

What I'm more interested in is how I can keep the temperature down in other ways. Fan with more blades? Faster fan? Remove some of the fan cowling?

Let me know if you think of anything mate....keep us updated, this is a good thread.

Bobby

[chook73]

This may be relevent or not to some being as 110 300tdi with full front intercooler[allards] and larger radiator[allisport] and auto transmission cooler inbetween, i run twin thermo VT coomodore fans with a thermo switch and a manual over ride switch on my dash, my biggest cooling problem was my KBX grill- i eventually cut all the cross bars out of it so it is now a frame with mesh, i also run spot lights a warn winch with out the solinoid box above blocking air, when climbing a big hill with a heavy work trailer i flick on the fans and it keeps me under 100c, i have 2 temp guages[vdo] one in the original and one in the head. The commodore fans pull much more air than the rubbishy pwr aftermarket fans ive tried[built for Australian conditions and approx $50 at a wreckers].

I am sure that this would work well at slow speeds but would the fans make a huge difference at 100k/h??

[redrovertdi]

I am sure that this would work well at slow speeds but would the fans make a huge difference at 100k/h??


Towing a heavy trailer today the fans come on at 100kph on the bruce highway[i have a light above my over ride switch that comes on with the fans automatically or when i manually turn them on-so i know if/when they are working], the fans are set to come on at approx 92deg cel, they then pull the temp needle[sender near thermostat] back down to 80dc[82 degree thermostat] before cutting out so i would say they do work at highway speeds when towing, however they rarely come on when im not towing a trailer at 100-120ks,

[chook73]

Towing a heavy trailer today the fans come on at 100kph on the bruce highway[i have a light above my over ride switch that comes on with the fans automatically or when i manually turn them on-so i know if/when they are working], the fans are set to come on at approx 92deg cel, they then pull the temp needle[sender near thermostat] back down to 80dc[82 degree thermostat] before cutting out so i would say they do work at highway speeds when towing, however they rarely come on when im not towing a trailer at 100-120ks,

Impressive, I would love to see a photo of them if its not too much problem....

[redrovertdi]

This is a vt commodore fan set up that cost $50 at a wreckers, i had to trim the fan shroud to fit but it drops in the genuine land rover shroud clips on the bottom of the radiator frame, also note that i have the 65mm wider allisport radiator behind the full front allard intercooler, some people say that you can fit twin ea falcon fans but it just wouldnt fit in my car, these fans have been in this 110 for over 2 years with out any problems and they replaced a vs commodore single fan that i had behind the standard radiator intercooler

[chook73]

This is a vt commodore fan set up that cost $50 at a wreckers, i had to trim the fan shroud to fit but it drops in the genuine land rover shroud clips on the bottom of the radiator frame, also note that i have the 65mm wider allisport radiator behind the full front allard intercooler, some people say that you can fit twin ea falcon fans but it just wouldnt fit in my car, these fans have been in this 110 for over 2 years with out any problems and they replaced a vs commodore single fan that i had behind the standard radiator intercooler

Thanks for this, sorry I missed it I must have been busy. Shouldn't be too hard to do that on a Puma I wonder how much difference it would make over the stock Puma fan

[Iain_B]

Hi Iain, before we left on our trip, I pored in a bottle of "Redline Water Wetter". for $25 I did not expect it to make a difference, but I think it has. On our last trip I would have to slow down to 80-90kph if we had a headwind as the temperature on the Scangauge would creep up to 115 deg then the engine would shut down. So far on this trip we have not had that happened at all, and the highest temp that I can remember seeing on the Scangauge was 108 deg and that was in the desert out near Coober Pedy when we were driving at 80kph into a 40-50kph headwind, climbing a bit of a rise. The air intake temp showing 53 degrees.

I also rigged the scan gauge to show fuel consumption, and into strong headwind on the last part of the Anne Beadell after the Dog Fence, we decided we just wanted to get to Coober Pedy, and we had enough fuel so I put my foot down, and even running 15 PSI/25 PSi in the tyres, and into headwind, fuel consumption went up to 19-20lt per 100km (we ran like this for the last 60km), engine temperature was around 103 degrees and air intake around 35 degrees. Normal is around 12-15lt. That means we are pouring in 25% more fuel, and still not having a problem,

Might be worth a try for the money.

Cool runnings,
Iain

[BilboBoggles]

I had a thought the other day. The viscous fan hub on the PUMA is the same as the TD5. But It's located about 12 inches further back from the radiator. I reckon this causes the viscous fan to perhaps experience different temperatures to the TD5, which might mean it's not locking up at the right radiator temp, perhaps a few degrees too hot, which makes the rest of the system marginal. So I looked into what can be done to adjust the viscous fan hub to make it lock up at a slightly lower temp, and I found this

Paul’s esoteric meanderings » Blog Archive » Tuning and Understanding your Toyota Viscous Fan Clutch (http://neuralfibre.com/paul/4wd/tuning-and-understanding-your-toyota-viscous-fan-clutch)

Yes it's for a Toyota, but these viscous couplings are all pretty similar. I wonder if by following this guide it's possible to have the viscous coupling lock up a little lower, and that might reduce the engine max temp considerably.

Production tolerances in the viscous coupling might explain why one PUMA overheats and another does not, and why some are sensitive to driving lights reducing ram airflow.

Anyway something to experiment with. The silicon oil they mention is avail on ebay, used for shock absorbers for RC cars, for not much more than $20.

[chook73]

Hi Iain, before we left on our trip, I pored in a bottle of "Redline Water Wetter". for $25 I did not expect it to make a difference, but I think it has. On our last trip I would have to slow down to 80-90kph if we had a headwind as the temperature on the Scangauge would creep up to 115 deg then the engine would shut down. So far on this trip we have not had that happened at all, and the highest temp that I can remember seeing on the Scangauge was 108 deg and that was in the desert out near Coober Pedy when we were driving at 80kph into a 40-50kph headwind, climbing a bit of a rise. The air intake temp showing 53 degrees.

I also rigged the scan gauge to show fuel consumption, and into strong headwind on the last part of the Anne Beadell after the Dog Fence, we decided we just wanted to get to Coober Pedy, and we had enough fuel so I put my foot down, and even running 15 PSI/25 PSi in the tyres, and into headwind, fuel consumption went up to 19-20lt per 100km (we ran like this for the last 60km), engine temperature was around 103 degrees and air intake around 35 degrees. Normal is around 12-15lt. That means we are pouring in 25% more fuel, and still not having a problem,

Might be worth a try for the money.

Cool runnings,
Iain

Thanks for this iain. Just wondering where you pick this up from, I tried repco and super cheap this morning.

Also I assume that it's ok with the standard coolant?

[The Cone of Silence]

Took Monty in for a service and asked them to flush all the coolant and replace and see if they could find anything obvious that would be causing the overheating.

They took out the radiator and the chap said it weighs 3 times as much as it should.

It would appear that despite all my cleaning efforts, hosing and rinsing out as much of the mud as I possibly could, there's still a vast quantity of brown sludge stuck between the fins and it's baked in...giving it a good bath hasn't budged it. This is a result of me going too fast through deep puddles after 4 cars in front did the same, stirring up all the Watagan clay.

For $350, a replacement radiator seems like a much more sensible option but I think I'm going to get a Scangauge so I can check temperatures and track performance in varying conditions.

Water wetter also sounds like it might help (thanks Iain) so I'll keep an eye out for it and see what difference it makes once the Scangauge is in.

Bobby

[chook73]

Coming down the F3 into sydney this afternoon the spotlights and front grille came off and I managed to hold about 90km/h on the flat and 70km/h on the hills to keep it under 112deg.

Something is not right.......

[The Cone of Silence]

Coming down the F3 into sydney this afternoon the spotlights and front grille came off and I managed to hold about 90km/h on the flat and 70km/h on the hills to keep it under 112deg.

Something is not right.......

You're not towing B-double are you?

Strewth mate you've had some interesting challenges with that Puma. I love learning so much from your posts about your experiences but it sucks that you've had to go through it all.

Feeling your pain buddy

[Drover]

Hey Iain,

Could the problem possibly be the water pump, just not pumping sufficient volume of water around to cope with the heavier work loads.

The possible causes for the over heating are surely limited -
1/ blocked/restricted radiator
2/ blocked/restricted radiator cooling fins
3/ blocked/restricted hoses
4/ sludged up water channels in the block and head
5/ water pump.

Considering you have a new Alli-Sport alloy radiator 1& 2 are out. I assume your using coolant that comes out clean so 4 is out.

Only leave that pump or the hoses internally colsapsed or similar.

Maybe I have forgotern something, happy for anyone to chime in.

[n plus one]

Coming down the F3 into sydney this afternoon the spotlights and front grille came off and I managed to hold about 90km/h on the flat and 70km/h on the hills to keep it under 112deg.

Something is not right.......

Something is definitely not right - I didn't get over 96 deg fully loaded across the Simpson the other week (and it was 43deg a couple of times) and didn't get over 92deg at any time between Canberra and Newcastle the other day.

Your temps are from a ScanGuage right?

[chook73]

Something is definitely not right - I didn't get over 96 deg fully loaded across the Simpson the other week (and it was 43deg a couple of times) and didn't get over 92deg at any time between Canberra and Newcastle the other day.

Your temps are from a ScanGuage right?

Verified by the engine cutting out....... :eek:

[chook73]

Hey Iain,

Could the problem possibly be the water pump, just not pumping sufficient volume of water around to cope with the heavier work loads.

The possible causes for the over heating are surely limited -
1/ blocked/restricted radiator
2/ blocked/restricted radiator cooling fins
3/ blocked/restricted hoses
4/ sludged up water channels in the block and head
5/ water pump.

Considering you have a new Alli-Sport alloy radiator 1& 2 are out. I assume your using coolant that comes out clean so 4 is out.

Only leave that pump or the hoses internally colsapsed or similar.

Maybe I have forgotern something, happy for anyone to chime in.

Like we were saying on the phone this afternoon mate I was relatively lightly loaded, its not like I was towing a caravan and I didnt have any camping gear etc.

Might well be the water pump or a sticky thermostat, I will have to do some more research. Does anyone know where I can get an 80 or 82 degree thermostat from for the Puma to see if that makes a difference?

[Iain_B]

Hi Iain, here is a list of Redline agents. I have a whole bottle in my standard coolant, no problems.

Reseller Locations - Red Line Oils Pty Ltd (http://www.redlineoil.com.au/reseller-locations.asp)

Do you have the BAS remap? Have you tried going back to the standard map so see if the same happens (assuming the standard map can actually get your car moving :)?

[chook73]

Hi Iain, here is a list of Redline agents. I have a whole bottle in my standard coolant, no problems.

Reseller Locations - Red Line Oils Pty Ltd (http://www.redlineoil.com.au/reseller-locations.asp)

Do you have the BAS remap? Have you tried going back to the standard map so see if the same happens (assuming the standard map can actually get your car moving :)?

haha I have a remap but one through Brad at KLR so I might get him to look into that.

[chook73]

After doing some research and talking to brad it could possibly be a head gasket :(

[Gerokent]

Check viscous coupling on your fan. They can cause a lot of overheating probs and are often over looked. When it is in it's operating range, try to stop it with a rolled up newspaper, (or remove it and test drive the vehicle.) If you can stop it, it's buggered. They act as an air dam, not allowing air flow through the radiator.

[Brid]

One thing to bear in mind with overheating issues, is that cooling is also one of the 5 duties of an engine oil. If your oil stays good and clean it probably won't be an issue, but if it gets heavily sooted, it'll run out of detergent, drop sludge & allow deposit build up, resulting in poor cooling internally.

The pattern will be overheating under load, back off the load and it cools down quickly. It can happen with any diesel that gets heavily sooted, but most common in 4.2 Patrols & other pre-combustion type diesels.

Heavy oil sooting can be due to performance upgrades as well as CRD injectors becoming a bit sticky allowing some over-fuelling.

Let me know if you think it might be an issue and I can advise further.

[chook73]

One thing to bear in mind with overheating issues, is that cooling is also one of the 5 duties of an engine oil. If your oil stays good and clean it probably won't be an issue, but if it gets heavily sooted, it'll run out of detergent, drop sludge & allow deposit build up, resulting in poor cooling internally.

The pattern will be overheating under load, back off the load and it cools down quickly. It can happen with any diesel that gets heavily sooted, but most common in 4.2 Patrols & other pre-combustion type diesels.

Heavy oil sooting can be due to performance upgrades as well as CRD injectors becoming a bit sticky allowing some over-fuelling.

Let me know if you think it might be an issue and I can advise further.

Thanks I actually put injector cleaner in it before I drove it back down to Sydney and the oil was changed only 1500km ago so those two are probably out.

Will check the viscous coupling however after doing some research I am wondering if it is not just the thermostat not opening fully. It would seem that a head gasket would be more prone to general overheating where as this is mainly under load such as climbing hills at high speeds.

It never gets too high at slower speeds. Changing the Thermostat would surely be cheaper than a head gasket....at least to check anyway...... :angel:

[Brid]

I've had 2 thermostats stick open in mine (2007). I ended up leaving the second one that way, thinking it would be better than risking the next one sticking closed.

Gotta be something pretty basic in your case. Definitely worth looking at.

[chook73]

I've had 2 thermostats stick open in mine (2007). I ended up leaving the second one that way, thinking it would be better than risking the next one sticking closed.

Gotta be something pretty basic in your case. Definitely worth looking at.

I don't think its sticking closed as it doesn't happen on the flat, just maybe not fully opening.....

[Drover]

Can't see it being the head gasket. You have had this problem for to long, if it was the head gasket it would have got much worse after all this time.

But the viscous fan suggestion sounds solid.

[Iain_B]

I was also told "head gasket" but like yours Iain, mine must have been "going" for almost 18 months and 50,000km.

[justinc]

unlikely IMO to be a head gasket unless excessive leaks/ pressure is present in the cooling system at the same time. these engines use a multi layer steel shim gasket, when they 'fail' they are very obvious

diesel engines (especially modern turbocharged ones) are relatively easy to diagnose head gasket issues as the cylinder pressures are so high that even a minor leak has obvious and sometimes catastrophic symptoms.


has the overheating got apparent after the new radiator, or just before it was replaced? did you have any othe engine compartment mods done at the same time, or panelwork to the front? also, altering the aitflow under the vehicle can sometimes reduce the efficiency of airflow out from under the engine.
jc

[scarry]

And also if you are running a radiator fan with no shroud, it will have very little efficiency.You will have no end of overheating problems.

[justinc]

And also if you are running a radiator fan with no shroud, it will have very little efficiency.You will have no end of overheating problems.

100% yes. hence my comment about panel work etc. i have seen seemingly useless looking bits of rubber and plastic left off vehicles after body repairs cause overheating problems as they were there to block off escape routes and direct air through the rad at speed.

jc

[chook73]

unlikely IMO to be a head gasket unless excessive leaks/ pressure is present in the cooling system at the same time. these engines use a multi layer steel shim gasket, when they 'fail' they are very obvious

diesel engines (especially modern turbocharged ones) are relatively easy to diagnose head gasket issues as the cylinder pressures are so high that even a minor leak has obvious and sometimes catastrophic symptoms.


has the overheating got apparent after the new radiator, or just before it was replaced? did you have any othe engine compartment mods done at the same time, or panelwork to the front? also, altering the aitflow under the vehicle can sometimes reduce the efficiency of airflow out from under the engine.
jc

The heating started when the new intercooler (and portals) was installed, at that point I bought the new radiator which hasnt made any difference. Not its coming into summer and the ambient temperature is rising the engine temp is rising accordingly. For example, as a rough correlation, if I go up Orimbah pass in 20 deg outside temp at 90k/h I get to 100deg, if its 30 deg outside I get up to 110deg.

In other words the temperature of the engine seems directly related to the outside temp and therefor the CAI temp, the hotter the day the closer I get to the cut out and the more I have to back off.

This is only happening under load, the steeper the hill or the more loaded the vehicle the hotter it gets, it cools down to normal operating temp as soon as I back off or level out.

It happened prior to and after the remap.

[chook73]

100% yes. hence my comment about panel work etc. i have seen seemingly useless looking bits of rubber and plastic left off vehicles after body repairs cause overheating problems as they were there to block off escape routes and direct air through the rad at speed.

jc

All plastic bits present and accounted for.....

[uninformed]

maybe the extra power to drive the portals and tyres, the change in aerodynamics due to the portals, plus the remap all add up to the poor little engine that could but now stuggles a bit?

Are you reading to cut a vent in your guard yet :p

[chook73]

maybe the extra power to drive the portals and tyres, the change in aerodynamics due to the portals, plus the remap all add up to the poor little engine that could but now stuggles a bit?

Are you reading to cut a vent in your guard yet :p

I would like to exhaust a couple of other options first.......

I am heading over to brads on Tuesday afternoon and we are going to flush the system and drop in a new thermostat as well as check the fan.

Will see how that goes and if it's still not happening then it might be cutting time...... I am happy to hear that people don't think it's a head gasket.....

[scarry]

I am no mechanic,thats JCs department......

But if it's directly affected by ambient temperature,you would think it needs a bigger rad,maybe the bigger one you fitted just wasn't big enough.
The mods for the car may have caused the issue.

I know in refrigeration we will fit a slightly bigger condenser coil to a system and it makes bugga all difference.We have to fit one way bigger to do the job,slightly bigger often doesn't help much.

Sometimes we also have to change the fans on the condenser coil as well,as a thicker condenser actually reduces the airflow.

Just my 2 cents worth

[justinc]

My theory then is as follows,

Bigger/ thicker IC core will cause less actual flow through the radiator core, coupled with higher IC core temps due to working that poor little engine harder, then less actual heat exchange from the rad due to the above is a distinct possibility. Fitting a bigger rad won't help unless you are getting air to it, and that air isn't preheated by another heat exchanger first, IE a nice big intercooler..:(

try returning the standard fuel map, and refitting the standard IC, this is a pain I know but will once and for all prove a theory.


JC

[djam1]

I have a TD5 with the same Radiator from Andrew my car also has an Allisport Intercooler.
I have found that the combination doesn't have any negative effects in terms of cooling.
Even in 40 Degrees C things dont go over 93 Degrees C and usually sits at 89-90 Degrees C
With the standard radiator it could go up to 98 Degrees C

[Drover]

I've got a Alli-Sport inter cooler, stock radiator, BAS map, cat/centre muffler removed.
Use to tow a Coromal off-road van (2.4t) through out Summer, 110km/h on the freeway, pedal firmly push into the rubber mat on some hills, 40c outside temps on occasions and never ever reached the engine heat cut out.

Can't give temps as no scan gage (yet).

But surely the portals couldn't be any harder to push along than that caravan.

[chook73]

The winner seems to be the fan, we changed it over as it seemed to be stuffed.

Also flushed the system and dropped in a new thermostat. On the drive home I was sitting on 100km/h between 84-91 deg. It got no higher than 93 the whole run however it is cold in Sydney tonight so time will tell.

Also changed the serpentine belt while it was all apart as after 90,000km it was starting to crack.

Thanks for all your help and input I will let you know how i go on the run up the coast early Friday morning, its always the hills out of Sydney that get it hot under the collar.

[n plus one]

That sounds a little more like it!

[LowRanger]

The winner seems to be the fan, we changed it over as it seemed to be stuffed.

Also flushed the system and dropped in a new thermostat. On the drive home I was sitting on 100km/h between 84-91 deg. It got no higher than 93 the whole run however it is cold in Sydney tonight so time will tell.

Also changed the serpentine belt while it was all apart as after 90,000km it was starting to crack.

Thanks for all your help and input I will let you know how i go on the run up the coast early Friday morning, its always the hills out of Sydney that get it hot under the collar.

I am still trying to figure out how it keeps getting hot,when it spends its life on a flat bed?:wasntme::D

[chook73]

I am still trying to figure out how it keeps getting hot,when it spends its life on a flat bed?:wasntme::D

I thought it would be obvious..... The portals lift it up so high the flatbed exhaust heats it up !

[Drover]

The winner seems to be the fan, we changed it over as it seemed to be stuffed.

Also flushed the system and dropped in a new thermostat. On the drive home I was sitting on 100km/h between 84-91 deg. It got no higher than 93 the whole run however it is cold in Sydney tonight so time will tell.

Also changed the serpentine belt while it was all apart as after 90,000km it was starting to crack.

Thanks for all your help and input I will let you know how i go on the run up the coast early Friday morning, its always the hills out of Sydney that get it hot under the collar.

Glad to hear that, I'll keep my fingers crossed.:D

[RVR110]

I am still trying to figure out how it keeps getting hot,when it spends its life on a flat bed?:wasntme::
I thought it would be obvious..... The portals lift it up so high the flatbed exhaust heats it up !Well this is shaping up to be an interesting campfire conversation on the Watagans trip
:D

[chook73]

Well this is shaping up to be an interesting campfire conversation on the Watagans trip
:D

If the flatbed makes the campsite then Wayne will have to dial in……..

Apparently he cant make it, personally I think he is worried about being shown up by a flatbed :wasntme:

[uninformed]

Dont worry Ian, my 110 has spent its fair share of time on the back of a tilt tray. My mates like to remind me with things like, "got the towy on speed dial #1" or if driving down the road and see any tilt tray driving by, they ask if that was Darren or Steve driving? becuase I must know them all on a first name basis? Or is my next truck going to be a tilt tray to save time…..

[PAT303]

Just remember to use the dipstick when filling with oil Serg and you won't have to use the tilt tray :p:p:p:p:p:p:p:p. Sorry mate,had to have a dig :angel:. Pat

[uninformed]

Just remember to use the dipstick when filling with oil Serg and you won't have to use the tilt tray :p:p:p:p:p:p:p:p. Sorry mate,had to have a dig :angel:. Pat

oh its been on more than that 1 time, 1st engine failure of the 300tdi was a good 150km trip, head gasket was another….never been let down by the gearbox, t/case or diffs though.

[PAT303]

If it makes you feel any better we are getting rid of our LC's at work because of constant troubles with them. Pat

[n plus one]

If it makes you feel any better we are getting rid of our LC's at work because of constant troubles with them. Pat

A bit OT, but have you had any issues with their fuel filter drains? We had one fracture on a 76 series recently.