Distributor and Carburetter reconditioning?

[Hebe]

Distributor
My 1958, 2ltr petrol, S1 started back firing and ended up losing power etc.:o My usual mechanic came back to me telling me to get a new distributor cap and original leads. A year or two ago the engine was reconditioned (elsewhere) and the original leads were removed as they were too old. They crafted some Holden leads and spark plug covers. It seemed to do the job.

Don't know if that affected things over time. Now we also have a suspicion the ignition coil is no more good/optimal. He sent me a text message asking me if it had 12 or 6 volts to coil and does it have a ballast resistor? Together with a marine electrician friend (who rewired his own S1) we rewired with a new loom about one and a half years ago (or was it two? time flies). It's now 12volt negative earth. I did not notice any ballast resistor in the wiring loom, OK lets be more definate, there is none. I haven't had a chance yet to ask my mechanic about his text (will do so Monday) but now I suspect there is maybe not enough voltage going to the coil!???

After rewiring with the new loom, following the diagram and restoring everything to original, everything worked as should. ..... here it comes.... except the Ignition warning light is continuously on when driving. Is that normal? Did we make a wrong connection somewhere?

Although my mechanic is very friendly and capable I am now considering if it is maybe better to send the distributor off to the UK for reconditioning. Unless someone knows a great address here in Victoria which has experience with these Lucas/Land Rover distributors?

I believe I have an all original distributor. See pictures and let me know if I'm wrong.
http://www.landroverseries.org/Distributor.jpg
http://www.landroverseries.org/Distributor2.jpg
http://www.landroverseries.org/Distributor3.jpg
The pictures show the Holden spark plug covers and leads, but I still have the old ones. But cleaning off the huge amount of dirt shows how worn they are. I never realised I only had 3 suppressors. Do I need them anyway? And the silver tipped one of those had some type of ceramic stift which fell out and no copper internally???. In addition one of the cable nuts is longer than the others. Arent the long ones for the screw in ignition coils?

http://www.landroverseries.org/spark plug covers leads.jpg
http://www.landroverseries.org/Supressors and cable nuts.jpg

Carburetter
I am also considering to get my carburetter reconditioned (again :mad:). It was done about a year ago outsourced by my mechanic to a specialist(??) but I have a feeling they didn't do a good job. Example, (sporadic) leaks and I noticed suction/vacuum pipe loose at carburetter side. Seems they damaged the screw/bolt.

Reading up on the forums this could also be (part) cause of the back firing.

I believe to have an orginial Solex carburetter. Anyone can confirm that?
http://landroverseries.org/Carburetter.jpg

I am enquiring now with the recommended usual suspects in the UK. But if I can't afford to send it over to get it done there I probably need to get the parts to do it here. Anyone can help with:

(I noted the Lucas and/or Land Rover part numbers.)



Ignition coil, Lucas 45054B / Land Rover 263732
Acorn nut, Lucas 408120 / Land Rover 240102
Split washer, Lucas 185015 / Land Rover 214279
Fuse box, Lucas 37131 / Land Rover 219078
Cover for fuse box, Lucas 291078 / Land Rover 261502
Fuse 35 amp., Lucas 188216 / Land Rover 12738
Distributor complete, Lucas 40504A / Land Rover 269240
or just the Distributor cap complete, Lucas 418871 / Land Rover 245004
Suction pipe complete, carburetter to distributor Land Rover 21431
Resistor for distributor lead Land Rover 213646 (in the parts book but no picture, so not sure where this goes, optional or?)
H.T. Wire Land Rover 80603 (I believe this is "High Tension Lead, Copper Cored for spark plugs. 7mm(0.28") outside diameter", correct?)
Carburetter Complete, SX Type 32 PB 1/2, Land Rover part number 264664


4x


Sparking plug Land Rover 262796
washer for sparking plug Land Rover 40441
Suppressor for sparking plug Land Rover 240138
Sparking plug cover Land Rover 214262
Rubber sealing ring for cover Land Rover 213172
Cable nut, Lucas 410600 / Land Rover 214278
Washer for cable nut, Lucas 185015 / Land Rover 214279

If you can help with any of the above please indicate if "Used", "NOS" or "Reproduction". And then of course the price and shipping to Melbourne.

Thanks,

Kris

www.landroverseries.org (http://www.landroverseries.org)

[Brad110]

Hi Kris

Your leads look to be silicone which if cut can break up causing problems. Get 7mm copper which can be had from Bursons and Repco as old stock. It's cheap.

Try one thing at a time in order to identify the problem.

[Hebe]

You are right, one step at the time. I guess my frustration gets me carried away and I want everything perfect. Still, would be interested to know if there is any mechanic in greater Melbourne who knows their Lucas/Solex/Land Rover carburetters and distributors? Anyone has any good experience(s)?

[mfc]

Narva are the makers 7 mm copper core..... They may want to sell you 39 meters but some Repco stores have it in stock by the meter2 .5 will do it all ... Moe Repco has it by the meter ,get you're local rc to order it from them

[mfc]

I recon the dizzy dr is the go unfortunately , although there's a bloke in melb that has some new/ reco vac advances ...... My farting spluttering issue was fuel pump( crud inside) and a exh manifold leak and buggered coil .i ended up using a silver Lucas coil from a 70's Rrc

[mfc]

Also try mower/ chainsaw shops for ht lead ends......

[mfc]

Ps those bakerlite plug ends are rebound for bring c?)(p .....keep them 4 show

[Mick_Marsh]

The distributor cap looks similar to the one used on old Minis. Maybe the distributor would be similar. Mini parts people such as Northern Mini Parts and Link Automotive might be able to help.

[UncleHo]

G'day Kris

There is a guy in Qld that is the Lucas specialist,Kevin Baker,trading as K. B. Classic Parts,he is not on computer, but his ph No is (07)5494 4221 he has about 55,000 Lucas parts up there,( ex Lucas parts man) he should be able to help,by the way,you should have a standard 12Volt coil,no ballast,as those Ign systems run 12volt everything set points at .015 thou ins,it might be worth replacing your condensor as they can drop dead,or start dying,if you have a dead vacuum advance unit contact www.a (http://www.a)dvance (http://www.advancediaphragmoptions.com)diaphrgmoptions.co m,that is Mike Bushnell on(07)5428 0808 if you wish to talk to him,he is very good,as all he does is fuel/gas conversions and vacuum advance units the more common ones exchange,he does all my carby and vac work.


cheers

[Hebe]

Hi,

I think I am on the right track finding out what is/went wrong. I don't have the parts yet to proof it. But if someone has an answer to these questions it may help.

My mechanic asks, how much voltage is supposed to go to the ignition coil? He says that most cars of the time only get 12 volt when starting, after that at running it goes back to 8 or 6 volt. Is he right, and what should the voltage be?

Looking at the parts book I noticed the "Resistor for distributor lead" part number 213646. But there was no picture so not sure where that goes, and I'm pretty sure I don't have one (unless it is hidden away somewhere). Looking at the wiring diagram in the workshop manual I don't find it either. And there is not much regarding the distributor or coil in the workshop manual either.

Now, the diagram is based on positive earth, but the car is of course now positive earth. Is that influeincing things?

And why does my ignition warning light stay on?

Anyone?

FYI, we can't identify the ignition coil and it could be a resistor one, and as Alex informed me "As to the coil, the original is a 12 volt NON-resistor coil. 12v resistor coils are very common in Australia, so people naturally use them as a replacement because they look exactly the same, but are actually different and fail over time when fitted to a S1 landrover. So make sure you have a NON resistor 12v coil"

[Defender Mike]

Hi I went through the same thing on my trip across Australia last week . Backfiring and a miss get yourself a new coil only $ 25 bucks make sure its a 12 volt W/O resister (without). My 109 is wired negative earth as well make sure the neg side is going to the dizzy . Check your earth wire inside the dizzy the old type insulation comes off and can cause a problem I put some shrink insulation around mine. Also check your dizzy has not come lose mine did on the rough track and this helped kill the coil. Give all your contacts a good clean up with some emery or wet and dry as well and make sure everything is connected properly. May need to squash your plug connectors a bit tighter as well. Mine had an annoying miss until I did the compression check today and then it healed must have been a lose plug lead. PS check if you coil is getting really hot that's a sign its stuffed.
Mike:)

[gromit]

Vehicles of this age used a 12V coil, 6V coils were later used with ballast resistors. Hit the 6V coil with double the voltage and get double the spark, then drop the voltage to 6V for running.

Not sure about the resistor in the parts book but often a resistor was used to reduce electrical 'noise'. Some plug caps had built in resistors but the original Series I caps didn't so what you have found is possibly an in-line suppressor.

Which light are you calling the 'ignition warning light'. Is it the charging light which should go out as the engine speed increases (dynamo) or goes out once the engine is running (alternator) ?


Colin

[Hebe]

Yes, the light is the middle one, the charging light, manual says "Ignition Warning Light" I guess because it is only meant to be on during ignition.

Anyone can confirm that there should be 'continuous' 12 Volt going towards the coil?

[gromit]

Yes, the light is the middle one, the charging light, manual says "Ignition Warning Light" I guess because it is only meant to be on during ignition.

Anyone can confirm that there should be 'continuous' 12 Volt going towards the coil?

With the ignition on there should be a continuous 12V supply to the coil.


Colin

[wrinklearthur]

Yes, the light is the middle one, the charging light, manual says "Ignition Warning Light" I guess because it is only meant to be on during ignition.

Anyone can confirm that there should be 'continuous' 12 Volt going towards the coil?


There should be 12 volts continuous going to the coil from the ignition switch when that switch is on.

The wire going to the distributor from the coil, should measure 0 volts in respect to the battery earth when the engine is stationary with the points in the closed position, also when the ignition switch is on.

If the points wire has any voltage at all in that situation, points have a poor contact or there is a faulty connector somewhere.

All the measurements should be done in this instance with a high impedance meter ( a digital multimeter is fine for doing this ).
.

[Charlie's brother]

Hi There,

No need to send anything to UK! There are many useful people here in Oz. Your distributor can be repaired by 'Performance Ignition' in Mitcham, they do a very good job on things that go round and round.
Your Carby can be repaired by Wilson Carburettor Service in Airport West who also do a very good job on things that suck!
I repaired my carby myself including making new diaphragms. It really needs to be cleaned out thoroughly. I sent the throttle body to Jim at Wilsons and he did a marvellous job on it.
Hope this helps.

Cheers Nick.