Keithy P38

[olbod]

G'day Keith.
I am going to wire in a switch on the delay timer earth as you suggested.
Had a bit of a look but I cannot identify which wire is the earth !!!

Do you remember what the colour code for that wire is or in case your wiring is different to mine, can you identify which pin on the timer is the earth ?

Ta.

[Keithy P38]

G'day mate,

Off the top of my head I can't recall. There may be other lads here who can help out short-term. May even need to use the earth on the relay.

I see Steve (SteveFarmer) and Gary (mtb_gary) have both done this mod. Perhaps they can confirm?

Ill have a look on rave before I start splicing to confirm.

Cheers
Keithy

[FANTOM P38]

G'day Keith.
I am going to wire in a switch on the delay timer earth as you suggested.
Had a bit of a look but I cannot identify which wire is the earth !!!

Do you remember what the colour code for that wire is or in case your wiring is different to mine, can you identify which pin on the timer is the earth ?

Ta.
Robert do a search on this site for this as there is a post about it somewhere.
I have setup this switch with a red led on dash above EAS switch, Led is on when EAS is off. very handy sometimes! If car throws up fault it gives you time to switch off before going down to bumpstops. That way you miss out on the Patrol ride home!
I think from memory it is a purple wire with red stripe you are looking to splice into but may stand corrected.

[Pete38]

Robert do a search on this site for this as there is a post about it somewhere.
I have setup this switch with a red led on dash above EAS switch, Led is on when EAS is off. very handy sometimes! If car throws up fault it gives you time to switch off before going down to bumpstops. That way you miss out on the Patrol ride home!
I think from memory it is a purple wire with red stripe you are looking to splice into but may stand corrected.

Yep I think the purple with red stripe is the +12V supply for the computer off memory.

[olbod]

Thanks all.
I will try that purple & red wire after I buy a switch in town on Thursday.

I dont have to worry much about going down on the bump stops because I bought the bypass kit from Paul and I carry a portable compressor but by cripes it is a pain in the butt.
Bypass kit and EAS kicker, more valuable than a full Sidchrome tool box.

Cheers.

PS: People are beginning to notice the 24/7 glazed look that comes from owning a spitefull P38.

[mtb_gary]

Confirming the purple with red stripe for the power supply wire to the EAS delay timer.
Good luck

Gary

[Keithy P38]

That's a pos wire is it? I assume you ran a wire to the switch then a wire back to the other side of the splice?

Cheers
Keithy

[mtb_gary]

That's a pos wire is it? I assume you ran a wire to the switch then a wire back to the other side of the splice?

Cheers
Keithy

Keith, you're right that is a +ve lead. I used that one because I wanted an orange indicator on the switch to show I had the EAS turned on.

Gary

[Pete38]

Yeh the switch is good to stop it before it ends up on the bump stops. Like in a river crossing the if the height sensors stuff up. Emergency valves don't help ya there.

I'm sorta hoping that cutting the positive might also protect the computer more if water gets in there...

[33chinacars]

Bypass kit and EAS kicker, more valuable than a full Sidchrome tool box.


Couldn't agree more

[olbod]

What I think I might do when my switch is installed.
The thing adjusting the ride height itself doesnt count for much in my mind. Its the only thing I have ever driven that does that.
This galoot of a thing goes into fault mode whenever it thinks I am not looking ( BITCH ), SO, I might leave the EAS on while the tank builds up pressure and the normal ride height is adjusted on the road. Then I will switch it off and drive around all day trouble free and park it when I get home switched off. In other words I will use the EAS just as a portable compressor and height adjuster. The height could be adjusted to suit the conditions at will.
Ta Da, peace of mind, one problem with a temporary fix.
I hope.

Cheers.

[Keithy P38]

Probably save the wear and tear on the compressor too!

Long term benefits!

[FANTOM P38]

PS: People are beginning to notice the 24/7 glazed look that comes from owning a spitefull P38.

Hey Robert once you've got it sorted you may look a little like this

[olbod]

PS: People are beginning to notice the 24/7 glazed look that comes from owning a spitefull P38.


Hey Robert once you've got it sorted you may look a little like this


AHHH, those were the days.

That was before me bum sagged.

[olbod]

Well the switch is in and it works betteran a bought one.
I dont have to put up with the fracking thing going into fault mode now.
I just put it in a temporary location, close to hand and out of the way.
No holes drilled and can be removed at any time.

Cheers.

[mtb_gary]

Well the switch is in and it works betteran a bought one.
I dont have to put up with the fracking thing going into fault mode now.
I just put it in a temporary location, close to hand and out of the way.
No holes drilled and can be removed at any time.

Cheers.

Crude but effective ;) well done!

Gary

[olbod]

Crude but effective ;) well done!

Gary


Yep. I am from the old bush mechanic school.
Prestige and bling are low on my list.
I like to see a bit of fencing wire and stuff that I feel comfortable and familiar with.eh.
Old habits and keep the thing rolling thru thick and thin.
The mail must go thru.

Cheers.

[Keithy P38]

Good work mate! I'm home from another stint out west, will hook into mine this week some time (albeit without the fencing wire and duct tape)!

Top job!

[olbod]

Heh Heh.

Keith, its only a stop gap measure but works as well as I hoped.
I could have done a nice neat job and installed a matching switch in the dash but I hope it is only temporary.
First I have to sort out the question of this fob and immobiliser thingy.
I intend to purchase a Faultmate MSV2 Extreme but BBS in the last 24 hrs are being a bit hard to pin down with regard to which one. I know little about the product so I ask them the question.
In the last 24hrs I have been quoted for an Extreme prices ranging from $1350.70 to less than $400 !!!
My question has been and still is, which is the cheapest Extreme that will allow me to isolate the immobiliser and alarm ? Not rocket science I would think. I wont spend a lot of money if a cheaper one will do the job.
Even something pricier in between, BUT which one.

I will give it another 24 hrs. My Disco is back on the road and I am driving it again so I dont really care whether I park the P38 and walk away from it.
Not fair on The Bro though, I would like to get it sorted for him.

Cheers.

PS: The Bitch, doestn't look like butter would melt.

[olbod]

Well I have recieved an email from BBS in the last few minutes explaining what the price differences mean and what each thingy is.
Being thick it takes me a while.
So I expect to be placing an order at BBS before morning.
Just have to check me money box.
Oh joy.

Cheers I think.

[TheTree]

Hi Rob

I was thinking the nanocom might be a better option than the faultmate, since you should be able to use the nanocom on Merlin as well :cool:

Good to hear the switch eliminates one problem at least !

Regards
Steve

[olbod]

G'day Steve.
Yes the Nanocom Evolution is what we decided on at a price of $470.10.
Thats beaut.
Before I purchased I asked the bloke at BBS to confirm that the Nanocom would do what I wanted to do with it, IE: isolate the immobiliser and alarm.
This was the crux of the queries in the emails going back and forth !!!
I just recieved this reply in an email from BBS from the same bloke.

First I can then I cant. I think I am beating my head against a brick wall and I dont think I will bother or take it any further.
Pity really because apart from that fob problem, the car is in excellent condition.

Cheers.

[p38driver]

If anybody is interested here is a few pics of my bypass switch . Before i put the switch in i made another access panel so i could access relay easier.

[Pete38]

If anybody is interested here is a few pics of my bypass switch . Before i put the switch in i made another access panel so i could access relay easier.

Tidy! Mine went in the left blank spot in the dashboard but will keep that spot in kind for future...

I've now made spare spots on the small wood trim on the dashboard near the drivers door, as the locker switch was too large.

[TheTree]

This was the crux of the queries in the emails going back and forth !!!
I just recieved this reply in an email from BBS from the same bloke.

First I can then I cant. I think I am beating my head against a brick wall and I dont think I will bother or take it any further.
Pity really because apart from that fob problem, the car is in excellent condition.

Cheers.

Hi Rob

From what I read there it seems to add confusion to misunderstanding !!

They say it disables the alarm, but does not effect the immobilisation, it may just be me but somehow that doesn't make sense :(

I believe that not all P38's in OZ had engine immobilisation, but i could well be wrong on that count.

I guess it's worth asking what a stealer would charge for a new keyfob if the car is in good nick otherwise.

Regards
Steve

[olbod]

G'day Steve.
I could not make any sense of it either and it just left me more confused.
I get the feeling that I am left without a paddle.
Oh well. I am not going to add to my confusion by having any further contact with BBS. I already took a bex.
Some time in the past the owner of this P38 changed something, a lock or barrel or something that was not recorded and new codes issued. Therefore a new fob cannot be issued without replacing a lot of expensive hardware. We looked into that issue sometime ago and could not solve it by just obtaining a new fob. The fob we have is just holding on and cant be repaired once the battery dies.
TheBro thinks the hardware would cost more than the car is worth.
I understood that the immobiliser and alarm could be isolated and the vehicle could be operated with just the key alone, which would be great.
The EAS could then be sorted and happy days ahead.
Apparently not.
I am going to park the thing up the back out of the way and just use it as an emergency vehicle when needed untill the fob dies and the thing cant be started.

Cheers.

PS: I think I will take me bit of fencing wire and stuff and put it somewhere else.

[davidsonsm]

Can I just confirm. There are 3 purple and red looking wires. Is it the largest diameter one. In the front centre pin position?

[davidsonsm]

Pin position 3 per the diagram?

[olbod]

Can I just confirm. There are 3 purple and red looking wires. Is it the largest diameter one. In the front centre pin position?


Yes, the largest diameter one. On mine the other reds were more orange than red.
I did not bother to disconnect the battery while I worked on it.
I removed the 10 amp fuse number 44 in the fuse block under the bonnet, although I was still careful not to earth the wire while I worked on it.

Cheers.

[davidsonsm]

Think I've blown a fuse then. Hope that's all it it is. Stupid. Didn't even occur it would be live with ignition off.

Cleared all faults but four switch lights on was height switch & under 55kmh warning still showing.

[PaulP38a]

here's my 20 cents...

I agree that a Nanocom would be better value here, but it won't be of any use on "Merlin" which is a Disco 1. It will however be useable on any P38 of the same type (GEMS, Motronic or Diesel).

The FaultMate MSV2 (Nano or Extreme) is more expensive than a Nanocom and they are usually sold locked to a single VIN unless you buy the more expensive multi-vehicle licence. However, with a FaultMate you can also purchase modules that apply to a Disco 1 if you want. With a Nanocom, you can buy additional Unlock Codes for other P38 types, Disco 2 (V8 and TD5) and Defenders (TD5 and Puma). Don't think they have added any other vehicles yet, or if they will.

Back to the P38...
The alarm can certainly be disabled.

Passive Immobilisation can be switched off... this is the immobilisation that occurs about 30 secs after you switch the engine off and do not lock the doors. Now, what I am not sure about is whether this applies to all P38's or only the 99+ models.

The immobilisation that occurs when the Engine ECU and BeCM lose synch cannot be disabled. If and when this occurs, you need a tool like FaultMate, Nanocom or Sync-Mate to reset it.

I believe you can also disable the EKA by entering 0000 in the EKA field with Nanocom or FaultMate.

Hope this doesn't confuse things too much.

Cheers, Paul.

BTW: in my view, carrying a Nanocom in my glove box is as important as having a good spare tyre ;) (No, I don't sell them).

[olbod]

Interesting Paul.
Ok then, I will give the Nanocom Evolution a go.
Its only $470.10 so worth a try, better than scrapping the car if it can be kept going.
All I will need to do is learn how to drive it but apart from being thick I am a quick learner.
I shall place an order with BBS after I make a cup of coffee.

Thanks.

[olbod]

One more question.
Can all this be carried on with, without having a fob that works, just the key ?

Ta.

[PaulP38a]

One more question.
Can all this be carried on with, without having a fob that works, just the key ?

Ta.

As I understand it, switching off the passive immobilisation allows you to use the valet key instead of a key fob, so this should mean that using a dead key fob should be ok too.
When I had my 95 P38, its only key fob was dead too. I think the PO had disabled the alarm and passive immobiliser on that one.

Cheers, Paul.

[FANTOM P38]

Hi Rob don't despair re locks, keep an eye out on Ebay for lockset as I picked up a complete set of door handles/ Ignition barrell/keyfobs/reciever etc for under $200 aus from someone in Perth and sent off to Lab Electronics with becm all came back coded - reinstalled and all is now good.
Also had Alarm disabled at that time and if yours is same all it does is cancel flashing lights & beeps etc but immobiliser still funtions so you can still be locked out unless you knoe your EKA I know this as it caught my missus out at local servo and I had to relay over phone how to enter EKA so she could get in & start. ( actually getting in is easy with key but you get "engine disabled" on message centre & cannot start.

ps. Lockset was from US car and was setup for LHD so had a little bit of messing around with drivers door handle set to change to RHD but can be done!

Good luck! hope this eases the stress.

[olbod]

Thanks Paul, I will place the order.

FANTOM, G'day.
If I can keep the thing mobile we shall try over time to sort the problems and get it all back to normal.
Up untill now, keeping the thing going was the main concern.
If there is light at the end of the tunnel, I dont mind spending a quid.

Thanks all.

Cripes, one day it might even get a wash !!!