Front wheel bearings

[Kevin B]

Hi all,
I get in my 93 Discovery today to find a gringing noise in the front right side, so I get home ad jack it up and give the wheen a wobble and its a bit loose, I suspect the wheel bearing needs doing, I have never done one before, are there any pointers? Also would someone out there have a copy ov the manual theycould send me the page that details how to do it, its a 93 mod 3.5lt

Thanks all

[Judo]

If you search the forums (bottom of the page on the left), youtube and google you will find plenty of pictures and videos. Note it is also the same as an early defender hub.

[Judo]

Workshop manual is available through 2 means: 1. Purchase through the AULRO store (link at top of page) to receive a CD in the mail and supports the forum. 2. Google.

It is not a hard job for DIY. In fact, one of the first jobs I did myself. Tips off the top of my head:

Buy "Timken" brand bearings.
Replace oil seal with new at the same time. ("Corteco" brand, part # RTC3511).
Replace lock tab washers (very cheap).
Replace drive member gasket or use RTV silicone.

You need the hub nut spanner, a decent hammer, drift, 13mm 12 point socket for the brake caliper. And other general hand tools.

That's all I can think of right now. :)

[Kevin B]

Thanks for that, I will order the manual, however it may not get here before I need to do the job which is quite urgent as if it collapses ill be stuffed, hense why i asked the group if someone had a copy they could send me just of the front wheel bearing assy, ill order the bearing kits first thing tomorrow and get them expressed to me.

Do I need the hub nut spanner or is it possible to remove them without it

[Judo]

I'm sure there are ways around it, but I highly recommend ordering even a cheap one. 52mm. It would be very difficult to do the job properly without one. (Impossible?).

If it's making a grinding sound and the wheel has wobble, I wouldn't be driving anywhere. Sounds like the bearing is probably in a state of small, sharp metal chunks. If you keep driving it you will do more damage, like the stub axle for example.

[Kevin B]

I'm sure there are ways around it, but I highly recommend ordering even a cheap one. 52mm. It would be very difficult to do the job properly without one. (Impossible?).

If it's making a grinding sound and the wheel has wobble, I wouldn't be driving anywhere. Sounds like the bearing is probably in a state of small, sharp metal chunks. If you keep driving it you will do more damage, like the stub axle for example.

There is no wobble and its not a loud sound, it does not do it straight away rather after it warms up a bit, when I jacked it up there was more play than there was 3 months ago when I last checked thats why I assumed the bearing.

[Tank]

The locknut can be done up or undone with a drift/punch or chisel, chisel is a bit hard on the nut though, the adjusting nut can be done up and undone with a good pair of multigrips or large shifter, if you're in a hurry, regards Frank.

[weeds]

keep in mind you only do the wheel bearing lock nut up till it takes up the free play in the bearing......don't over tighten it

[Kevin B]

thanks guys, i have managed to Source the kits locally for $55 each (im going to do both Front at same time), ill go pick them up tomorrow, they are Timken andCortico Seals, i can get a hub nut spanner from there too, looks likea fun weekend ahead, i just got to find a wheel hub diagram now and ill be good

[THE BOOGER]

Kevin look here for most of the manuals on line and free for the disco us the range rover manual:)

pdf Land Rover Manuals | Landroverweb.com (http://www.landroverweb.com/landrover/pdf-land-rover-manuals/)

[Kevin B]

Kevin look here for most of the manuals on line and free for the disco us the range rover manual:)

pdf Land Rover Manuals | Landroverweb.com (http://www.landroverweb.com/landrover/pdf-land-rover-manuals/)

thanks for that i have downloaded them all, but i cant **** anywere in the 18 PDF's that mentions Wheel bearings or front hubs

[Kevin B]

i puled this out of the Defender 90/110 manual, im told it is the same hub assy would that be correct??

[Disco Dave]

You will find a few good tutorial videos on YouTube, I found it useful when I did mine recently.

[THE BOOGER]

That looks pretty right I am told the early defers and RRC are the same:)

[Kevin B]

You will find a few good tutorial videos on YouTube, I found it useful when I did mine recently.

Thats my next avenue, Thanks Dave

[Kevin B]

im putting Timken Bearing in, would it be only fitting to use Timken Grease, or is there a beter one recomended.... sheesh all these different types of Lubes..

Timken Wheel Bearing Grease - 425g - Supercheap Auto Australia (http://www.supercheapauto.com.au/online-store/products/Timken-Wheel-Bearing-Grease-425g.aspx?pid=108470#Cross)

[Judo]

I went for Castrol HTB, but I have no idea if one is better than the other...

[Kevin B]

Just a question, it does not make a noise when I first get in in the morning or the arvo from cold, only after a few km its starts to rattle, no wobble felt just like a rattly scratchy noise, im sure the bearing is shot and im gonna replace it but why would it be like this as opposed to noisy all the time

[THE BOOGER]

probably find it is the small outer bearing that is gone it will make more noise in corners and when hotter:)

[Tank]

Just a question, it does not make a noise when I first get in in the morning or the arvo from cold, only after a few km its starts to rattle, no wobble felt just like a rattly scratchy noise, im sure the bearing is shot and im gonna replace it but why would it be like this as opposed to noisy all the time
Kevin, to be on the safe side have a look at the universal joints on the front and rear tailshafts, jack the wheels up and rotate and lift shaft and put a pry bar in there and check for any movement, esp. the rear of the front shaft.
Does the noise happen in a straight line only or when turning only, if the latter it could be a worn CV joint in the front swivel hubs, have you checked for lube. I have a feeling your bearings might not be the problem, Regards Frank.

[Kevin B]

Kevin, to be on the safe side have a look at the universal joints on the front and rear tailshafts, jack the wheels up and rotate and lift shaft and put a pry bar in there and check for any movement, esp. the rear of the front shaft.
Does the noise happen in a straight line only or when turning only, if the latter it could be a worn CV joint in the front swivel hubs, have you checked for lube. I have a feeling your bearings might not be the problem, Regards Frank.

Frank, when it starts it is all the time, straight and turning, I havnt checked for lube but when I jack that wheel up and move it it feels raspy and there is a lot of play

[Tank]

Well that certainly sounds like a wheel bearing, but you can't be too cautious, a uni joint can make some horrible noises and can cause a lot of damage if one lets go, good luck with the repair, Regards Frank.

[disco 3 door]

[QUOTE=THE BOOGER;1942151]probably find it is the small outer bearing that is gone it will make more noise in corners and when hotter:)[/QUOTE
I may be wrong, but I thought all wheel bearings on a D1 were the same bearing (no smaller bearing).

[THE BOOGER]

Maybe I spend most of my time keeping the series on the road :D I now have oil in the wheel bearings 4 in 3 years was a bit much:(

Just checked the diagramme kevin posted you are probably right.

[Judo]

Yep, all wheel bearings are the same size on a D1.

Also for what it's worth, I recently converted to oil lube wheel bearings as well. I plan on doing very little maintenance on them now!

FYI: http://www.aulro.com/afvb/projects-tutorials/175497-converting-front-hub-wheel-bearings-oil-lubrication.html

[Kevin B]

hi all,

just been looking at some posts on the Swivel Pin housing, LR converted to Grease in 93 from my understanding, mine is a 93 D1 3.5l would it be grease or oil? and could you tell by looking at it? i would assume the oil filled ones have a drain plug and the later grease filled one do not

Thoughts?

[Judo]

hi all,

just been looking at some posts on the Swivel Pin housing, LR converted to Grease in 93 from my understanding, mine is a 93 D1 3.5l would it be grease or oil? and could you tell by looking at it? i would assume the oil filled ones have a drain plug and the later grease filled one do not

Thoughts?
Although LR started putting grease in, that doesn't say whether you have oil drain plugs or not. Even if your swivels have oil plugs/drains, the LR dealer would still put grease in. It just means you have a choice now. It's easy enough to tell. Have a look in my thread on converting to oil lube in my post above. The very first photo shows the oil fill, level check and drain holes. Much of that thread and photos also shows how to get to the wheel bearings.

Oil is a better lubricate than grease. The reason grease is considered "better" sometimes is because it won't leak in cases where oil might. Oil is also better because if it gets contaminated you can drain and refill as part of maintenance. Grease just stays in there regardless.

[Kevin B]

Not what I expected

[Judo]

Front wheel or rear?

Either way, the only logical next step is to pull that out. And then the rest is the same?

[goingbush]

Not what I expected

What did you expect ?

Looks very dry, I'd be happier if there was oil pouring out, By the look of the rust on the end of the stub its had some moisture in there.

I would convert to oil filled but still pack the new bearings with grease, Any HTB grease will do.

What do the bearings look like ?

[Kevin B]

Not what I expected

[Judo]

Not sure if that's a repost 5 hours late, or you're missing photos... Either way... :confused:

[Kevin B]

Sorry about that, stupid Tablet, anyhow not what i expected right from the start

go the wheel off and not the same hub as the D1 i expected and researched see first photo, so i was missing a front seal from the kit, no matter i recycled one which was in good Condition, the bearings were shot see pics, also i decided to do the Swivwl hub oil as well, so i removed the drain plug and WTF 5 drops of sludge came out... anyway replaced both sides as well as the non existant paper gaskets all is good now,

can someone tell me what hubs i have as i was expecting to remove dust cover and circlip and separate locking hub thingy, instead this mushroom type arrangement came out, on one side there was this orange stuff on the end of the spline, not sure what caused that but looks like Diff oil is next

oh took 6 hours for both sides

[goingbush]

RRC Front axles or RRC Front end by the look.

OMG are there really cars driving around with bearings like that.
well that I expect is your noise, it must have been horrible.

yes I'd get to the diff oil asap , and the cv's probably need a cleanout too.

I'd fill em up with cheap oil & go for a drive then drain & refill with good oil.

[Kevin B]

RRC Front axles or RRC Front end by the look.

OMG are there really cars driving around with bearings like that.
well that I expect is your noise, it must have been horrible.

yes I'd get to the diff oil asap , and the cv's probably need a cleanout too.

I'd fill em up with cheap oil & go for a drive then drain & refill with good oil.

RRC, ok they were prb changed before I got it, I gave the guy the VIN No to to ensur I got correct parts but no matter

Yes I almost feel embarrassed by those bearings, should have checked them when I bought the car 6 months ago, anyway we learn, suprisingly not that noisy :eek:

Yeah I did that in the swivel hubs with cheap castrol oil dfove about 20km then changed again ill change it in about 500km again too.

[Judo]

Jimminy cricket! :o I think they need replacing... ;)

As goingbush as said, you really need to check CV's and diff as well as a precaution. Also I would say there's a high probability the rear bearings will need replacing as well. Even if they don't look as bad as the front, it sounds like they're going to be OLD and due for replacement.

[goingbush]

The seals to use are RTC3511 , I actually use same seals on my 2006 Defender
which now runs wheel bearings in oil. the will fit all RRC Disco1 & All County / Defenders

and your also in luck because the Bearings will fit all models RRC / Disco1 / Defer as well same bearings, inner/outer front /rear .

Thats the great thing about Landrover , so much interchangeability thru the models. (too bad for Disco 2 3 4 owners)

[Kevin B]

Jimminy cricket! :o I think they need replacing... ;)

As goingbush as said, you really need to check CV's and diff as well as a precaution. Also I would say there's a high probability the rear bearings will need replacing as well. Even if they don't look as bad as the front, it sounds like they're going to be OLD and due for replacement.

Yes they will be done sooner rather than later, as will the diffs and cv's, seems from google that my early 93 model came out with RRC hubs, really should have pulled the wheels before I ordered parts

[Judo]

Yes they will be done sooner rather than later, as will the diffs and cv's, seems from google that my early 93 model came out with RRC hubs, really should have pulled the wheels before I ordered parts
Nah, I'm also a big fan of trying to order all the required parts before dismantling. It makes perfect sense. Which parts are not suitable? The seal and bearings should both be correct still? (See goingbush's post.)

[Kevin B]

Nah, I'm also a big fan of trying to order all the required parts before dismantling. It makes perfect sense. Which parts are not suitable? The seal and bearings should both be correct still? (See goingbush's post.)

Yes they were the same, only there was no outer seal in the kit, only the inner one, but the outers I removed were realky good so I cleaned them up and put them in, ill replace them when I do the cv's

[Kevin B]

the first picture is the kit i got, the second is the actual hub that is on mine, earlier in this thread i posted a picture of the hub diagram i was lead to believe i had on mine just from researching, on mine there is an extra inner seal which i didn't get all other parts are identical

[Kevin B]

Well it appears the hubs I have in mine are from a rrc and D1 up to VIN JA 1992, mine is VIN KA 1993, so it seems its had a front axle change at some stage, best check the back see if they did both