Pulse Buster/ led trailer module

[AnD3rew]

For those who use these where and how do you have them mounted?

I just had a bad experience with one I had on a loan trailer which I had mounted on the drawbar with about 10 heavy duty cable ties. Unfortunately the Birdsville developmental road appears to have worn them through and I lost my module:twisted: had to buy a boat trailer incandescent light board to finish my trip :(

New unit ordered and hopefully I will have my permanent camper trailer delivered soon. However, even so I would prefer to have it set Up so it is easily removable so I can use it on other trailers if I need to, but I don't want to have to keep buying new ones, interested to hear what others have done.

[SBD4]

Andrew, I understood the the unit was to be mounted in the vehicle with a switch to enable or disable it depending on what trailer you had hooked up (LED/Incandescent lights) .

[rufusking]

I use stainless cable type ties to the winch post on the boat trailer but haven't had to endure rough roads for any length of time.

Have you thought about large stainless hose clamps, they are available in large sizes or you can unwind them all the way and join 2 or more together to go around the drawbar.

[AnD3rew]

Andrew, I understood the the unit was to be mounted in the vehicle with a switch to enable or disable it depending on what trailer you had hooked up (LED/Incandescent lights) .

I may have led astray using the term pulse buster as I have never actually seen that unit. The one I have is the one supplied by pawky66 on eBay

LED Trailer Module Land Rover Discovery 3 Range Rover Sport Landrover Towing LR3 | eBay (http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/LED-trailer-module-Land-Rover-Discovery-3-Range-Rover-Sport-Landrover-Towing-LR3-/190850305210?pt=Caravan_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2c6f908cba)

Which is designed to accept the trailer plug and then bridge to the vehicle plug.

[AnD3rew]

I use stainless cable type ties to the winch post on the boat trailer but haven't had to endure rough roads for any length of time.

Have you thought about large stainless hose clamps, they are available in large sizes or you can unwind them all the way and join 2 or more together to go around the drawbar.

The large stainless hose clamps may be a good idea, but the mounting holes on the unit are the wrong way round to use for this to mint flush and horizontally on the bar so would have to just rely on pure pressure on the lug plates which based on my recent experience would worry me a little.

I guess I can just drill holes in the drawbar and bolt it in, but I am always wary of drilling holes in load bearing beams.

[gghaggis]

I guess I can just drill holes in the drawbar and bolt it in, but I am always wary of drilling holes in load bearing beams.

You could attach a couple of large U bolts to the A frame, threaded rods up, fab a small plate to attach to it and drill through that.

Cheers,

Gordon

[rufusking]

The large stainless hose clamps may be a good idea, but the mounting holes on the unit are the wrong way round to use for this to mint flush and horizontally on the bar so would have to just rely on pure pressure on the lug plates which based on my recent experience would worry me a little.

I was thinking of strapping around the body of the unit. It looks as the whole unit is in some sort of a die cast box.

As for drilling, the main load for the draw bar is in the verticle plane (for a single axle anyway) the top and bottom elements take the stress with the sides just keeping them apart so I'd have little concern in drilling a couple of small holes in the sides plus stops anyone standing on the Pulse Buster.

[sniegy]

I have one from Linear Electronic Design http://www.linearelectronicdesign.com/ & it is mounted inside the area where the tow hitch is, there is a switch I can use to turn it on/off when needed. Far better idea that the draw bar as I was most worried that someone would steal if for the hell of it. Didn't even think of wear on corrugated roads.

Cheers

Sent from my iPad using Forum Runner

[BONZER]

Hi Andrew, this is bit of shutting the gate after the horse has bolted but could be useful for other members. I have the problem of needing to tow a few different trailers so I went for a unit made by linearelectronicsdesign.com. This unit is very sturdy and has 4 holes on the backing plate. ( I had to drill out the holes a little to get bolts long enough) I just use bolts and aluminium strap to fix it to the van/trailer. I think the designer is/was on the forum as he gave me a discount on the unit. They are a little dearer ($265) than yours, but I think more user friendly.
Cheers
John

[BONZER]

Hi Pete,
I like your idea much better. I guess I have been lucky so far.You have always been great with the pics..Next time you are somewhere near your unit could you grab some photos of your unit and put them up.
Cheers
John

[sniegy]

62634

This is a photo of the unit fitted in the cargo hitch area.
It is one of he originals (as I know Dave Personally) & has the switch on the box, I didn't mind, but the newer versions have the switch on a fly lead mounted next to the cig lighter on the passenger side.

HTH
Cheers

Sent from my iPad using Forum Runner

[LGM]

I have the Linear Electronic Design module on my D4 and it works well! :) Let's me tow anything I want at any time! One module does it all!

[jimc]

Me too..I have Linear unit fitted inside the truck on the quarter panel with industrial velcro. Mounted the switch under the rear cig lighter on the downward sloping panel...kind of hides it from the little passangers in the rear most seats!

Oh..and the service from Linear is second to none. I had one fail..so David came to my house in his own time to swap out the unit! Thats customer service!

[Nomad9]

Hi Gordon,
I've done similar to yourself, I used the security screws that can be done up easily and not so easily undone. Attached to the draw bar of my camper trailer.