Introducing Hedley

[garrywlh]

Meet Hedley, the 1967 Series 2a SWB (chassis # 243 14067 D).

I have named him in honour of the British character actor, Hedley Mattingly who influenced me as a small boy watching him play the role of Officer Hedley, the Game Warden in the TV series 'Daktari'. Inspired me to actually travel to Africa to see a little bit of it for myself. :)

Here you can see a 3 minute video we made today Driving Hedley - YouTube (http://youtu.be/v4KXhJ94iRQ)
of Hedley's last drive before he is completely deconstructed prior to a rebuild. Surprising how double declutching comes back to you after many years (my first car was a Morris 1100).

Hedley's been used fairly regularly on a property until recently, but, naturally, is a long way off roadworthy, my ultimate goal.

2.25 Rover engine starts first time and burbles away quite happily. Pretty smokey, so I suspect the rings (among other things) are the problem. We'll see when the engine comes out.

As you can see, I have started the deconstruction phase. Hardtop canopy is off, bonnet, doors, tailgate, lights...and much more to come.

Chassis is pretty badly knocked about, I'm afraid, but can't be helped. I mainly wanted a good engine and drivetrain to get things started.

I am a complete novice, with no real mechanical background, but I needed a stay-at-home project that would stretch my mind and challenge my skills, as I am full time carer of my 17 year old son who has been quadriplegic with cerebral palsy since birth. I don't get out much! He is wrapped that we can do this together and is taking a keen interest. You can see him in his wheelchair in the video. He edited the video for me on his computer.

Anyway, over the months (and years!) ahead, I hope to keep you all posted, as I have gained so much from reading through the many helpful threads others have put here.

cheers,

Garry (and Christopher)

[garrywlh]

hope I have managed to attach these pictures properly...:blush:

[Cannon]

Love the video.

You're lucky to have such a big yard to drive around in until road worthy:)

[Ozdunc]

That vid was excellent:D

I'm looking forward to the story of Hedley's rebuild

[Cobber]

Rough and ready(ish!) ... I love it :BigThumb:

[garrywlh]

Thanks guys,

When I said it was Hedley's 'last drive' before the refit, I should have also mentioned it was my 'first drive'. And what a hoot, even though there was oil smoke everywhere and it was only around our driveway. You can see the silly grin on my face.

I have never driven a Land Rover, let alone a Series IIA, but it was great. The engine sounds fantastic and I love having no roof or doors on.

Yep, we will try to update you with as many little videos as possible along the way. My son is very keen to produce them. It's a bit of a pain getting cameras set up and operating them with oily hands, but we'll try.

Now back to wrestling with rusty bolts.

[ezyrama]

Very very nice, I thought it might have been named after Hedley LeMarr from Blazing Saddles!!!:cool:
As for the oily hands, $6.00 pack of latex gloves from coles, I have used them on Ralph and Smeg
and they have been fantastic. Just a bit of talcum powder on the hands before putting them on
makes it easier and the hands don't sweat as much. Keep the photo's and video's coming.
Cheers Ian

[garrywlh]

What a great movie. Actually, my old man said the same thing about Hedley LeMarr! Not that I am saying you are old. :wasntme:

Thanks for the tip about the gloves. Will give them a try.

The camera thing is the very reason so few of you LR restorers make videos - it is one thing to grab a quick still shot of an item and carry on. It is another thing to actually use a hand held, or move a tripod and try to pan a shot while at the same time wrestling with a recalcitrant bolt! Not to mention that I would be showing you in glorious colour all the mistakes I constantly make! The recording of the colourful language might have something to do with it also.;)

But, I will try, as there is nothing like a nicely put together little piece of video.

Garry

[garrywlh]

Hedley leans noticeably to the right and I am not referring to his voting intentions. ;)

A quick measurement puts his driver's side about 20mm closer to the ground than his passenger side. What would be the reason for this? It isn't tyre pressure. The springs? The spring clamping plates are very close to the same height off the ground on each side.

Any suggestions greatly appreciated.

Garry

[Ozdunc]

Saggy springs.
You could try swapping then from side to side to see if that helps.
I had mine reset but whilst it sits back at normal ride height theres a definate lean to the drivers side front. I swapped the springs over and it still sat to the drivers side.
I've got some individual leafs for the front which I'm going to install at some point to see if that helps (but I need to get the engine in first)

[snowbound]

Awesome! vid. The choice of music, was that in reference to the bouncing bomb! (bomb being the operative word LOL). Hope you can get Christopher actively involved in the project, good onya mate. BTW did anyone else get the suggested Youtube video of the "sound of victory" 16 spitfires flying together. Awesome sound!

[Pickles2]

A most "character filled" Video.
What is Hedley's prior history....I shall be following his "reconstruction" with interest.
Cheers, Pickles.

[klonk]

Originally posted by ezyrama
As for the oily hands, $6.00 pack of latex gloves from coles, I have used them on Ralph and Smeg
and they have been fantastic. Just a bit of talcum powder on the hands before putting them on
makes it easier and the hands don't sweat as much.


WHAT! :eek:
Thought I was in the wrong forum section, You'd never see that in a S1 workshop.

Good video and nice old truck.

PS. (Ducking for cover) I did own a S2a for 6 years.

[garrywlh]

'bouncing bomb' LOL. Yes, Dam Busters theme. All very grand for a humble little Landie, but it makes me smile.
Pickles, unfortunately, for all I have tried, I have yet to uncover much of its history. All I know is it has been in SE QLD on a property for many years. It was registered up until about 10 years ago but was being used regularly as a farm hack since then. Not very well maintained, but at least moving parts seem to have been kept moving. Roof must have been kept on all the time as there is little evidence of water damage/rust in the interior surfaces, although outside is another matter. The chassis is bad.
Thanks for the suggestions about springs Ozdunc. Won't bother me too much if it doesn't become a roadworthy issue.

[ezyrama]

What a great movie. Actually, my old man said the same thing about Hedley LeMarr! Not that I am saying you are old. :wasntme:

Thanks for the tip about the gloves. Will give them a try.



Garry

Hey mate, I have seen your video on YouTube, I think you have a few years on me unless that was your Dad driving :p:p. The only thing I don't like about the gloves is that they fall apart if you use solvents of any sort to clean parts. I am going to try nitrile gloves next but SWMBO has just bought 2 new boxes of latex gloves ( do you think she is trying to tell me something??). I know what you mean by video's though, I think some of mine would be R18+ if they were broadcasted and I would get another infraction from Ron for swearing!!:angel:
Cheers Ian

[wrinklearthur]

That video was a pleasant surprise, well done Christopher you have caught the mood beautifully.

Looking forward to some more updates as the restoration progresses.
.

[korg20000bc]

http://youtu.be/NzbhbetwYFU't=1m4s
That's Hedley....

[garrywlh]

well, that's a Hedley. Actually Mel Brooks was sending up the notorious old dame of the gossip columnists, Heddy Lamarr with this character.

This is Hedley Mattingly, looking very British and proper. Gotta love the moustache!

[garrywlh]

Hi all, if you promise not to laugh too loudly at the newbie, a small update on my slow progress.
After getting sick of wrestling with rusty bolts for a while, I decided to try my hand at some new skills, using a conveniently small part - the front apron.
Checklist of experience:
panel beating - no
paint stripping - no
sanding birmabright - no
spray painting - no
So, a lot to learn obviously; but the wonderful threads on AULRO have been brilliant.
1. I began by attempting to straighten out the badly dinged and warped apron. I have made progress, but have more to do by the look of it. I am enjoying working with the birmabright.
2. Paint stripper only served to reveal a very stubborn layer of bright yellow (camino gold???) under the green.
QUESTION 1: Does this provide any clues as to its history? The whole Landy is painted this way.
3. Nylon sanding wheel, wet-and-dry sanding pad and lots of patience; always fearing damaging the aluminium. Discovered that a COMBINATION of paint-stripper (under plastic wrap then scraped and sugar-soaped after; followed by sanding was good. The paint, though still in place, was now a lot softer and easier to remove. :)
4. Still to come - some primer, then a couple of top coats from a rattle can to see if I am happy with the resulting colour (Deep Brunswick Green) followed by leaving it outside for the months or years its going to take me to finish the rebuild to see how it copes in the weather.
Anyway, I'll update you when the painting is done.
Garry
QUESTION 2: how do I insert pics into the post rather than attach little thumbnails?
QUESTION 3: Christopher is keen for another video. Would it be helpful to the other newbie out there if we put together a 5 min video of the whole process, say on a door or something? NOT because I am an expert - far from it - but because then you guys who have done a lot of this can comment and correct my mistakes and make suggestions? Let me know what you think.

[korg20000bc]

well, that's a Hedley. Actually Mel Brooks was sending up the notorious old dame of the gossip columnists, Heddy Lamarr with this character.

This is Hedley Mattingly, looking very British and proper. Gotta love the moustache!

Sorry, I should have put inverted commas around that-
"That's Hedley..."

[1950landy]

All series L/R's lean to the right . We fitted a L/H fuel tank in my fathers s3 & when it was full it sat level . That worked untill you used the fuel in that tank:cool:

[Ozdunc]

QUESTION 3: Christopher is keen for another video. Would it be helpful to the other newbie out there if we put together a 5 min video of the whole process, say on a door or something? NOT because I am an expert - far from it - but because then you guys who have done a lot of this can comment and correct my mistakes and make suggestions? Let me know what you think.

Yep, definitely. My attempts at painting are pretty hit and miss, although seem to be improving. It would be good to see how someone else does it.

[ezyrama]

Hi Garry

PM sent
Cheers Ian

[garrywlh]

Well, I've finished my little experimental panel - front apron panel-beaten, coat of etch primer and two coats of Deep Brunswick Green from a spray can. I plan to do another small item in the same way and then leave the apron out in the weather during the coming months/years (while leaving the other item under cover, to compare them and see how much the paint fades in the elements over time) before painting anything else.

I quite like the tint (thanks grey ghost) but still not 100% about it. I would go code Bronze Green if I had a full spraying rig, but I don't.

We'll see. cheers.

[ezyrama]

If you want, when I do the next panels, seatbox etc, I'll video the paint mixing and spraying both the etch primer and colour coat and put it on you tube. Just be gentle with the comments you lot!:p
Cheers Ian

[garrywlh]

That would be really good, Ian. I'll look forward to seeing it. ta very much.

[gromit]

Well, I've finished my little experimental panel - front apron panel-beaten, coat of etch primer and two coats of Deep Brunswick Green from a spray can. I plan to do another small item in the same way and then leave the apron out in the weather during the coming months/years (while leaving the other item under cover, to compare them and see how much the paint fades in the elements over time) before painting anything else.

I quite like the tint (thanks grey ghost) but still not 100% about it. I would go code Bronze Green if I had a full spraying rig, but I don't.

We'll see. cheers.

You can get paint mixed (colour matched) and put into a rattle can, not cheap but if you were just doing a few panels it would be OK.
Most paint suppliers & also Autobarn can do this for you, about $35 per can though :o
I had some Spanish Olive mixed for my Series III for small bits & bobs where I couldn't be bothered setting up the spray equipment.

Now if someone did a deal with a paint supplier and organised a bulk lot of cans the cost would come down........


Colin

[wrinklearthur]

Now if someone did a deal with a paint supplier and organised a bulk lot of cans the cost would come down........
Hi Colin

Wouldn't that be a can of worms ? :D


Still, a supply of Bronze Green automotive enamel spray cans could tick a few boxes with me.
.

[gromit]

Hi Colin

Wouldn't that be a can of worms ? :D


Still, a supply of Bronze Green automotive enamel spray cans could tick a few boxes with me.
.

Arthur,

I'm sure Paddocks or one of the big LR parts suppliers in the UK listed Deep Bronze Green paint in rattle cans.
Problem here is you'd be inundated with complaints about it 'not being quite the right shade' or 'not quite original'.

I don't think I'll start a group buy, mind you, there must be a few companies in Australia that fill rattle cans in bulk........



Colin

[garrywlh]

It would be interesting to do the sums regarding paint costs. I agree that $35 a can is expensive :eek:, but, as I have no interest in rebuilding and respraying multiple vehicles - Hedley will be my first and last - it might still work out cheaper than getting a good quality spray rig that I'll never use again. Wonder how many cans you'd need for a complete 2 coat respray? Tom (grey ghost), I reckon you'd have a good idea how many cans it would take. Any suggestions?

[gromit]

I'd have to check the paint can to confirm the size I got from Autobarn but here is a paint supplier with what looks like lower cost.

Spray Paint CAN Aerosol Auto Paint Touch UP ANY Color in Melbourne, VIC | eBay (http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Spray-Paint-Can-Aerosol-Auto-Paint-Touch-Up-Any-Color-/120660730033)

Must be someone up in QLD you could negotiate with.

Not sure about the cost of this.....VG Auto Paints (http://www.vgautopaints.com.au/Prevalkit.htm)



Colin

[ezyrama]

I get mine in 2 ltr tins from Inspirations paint at Nerang on the Gold Coast for about $60. They told me early on they can do it in a can for $25 though.

[grey_ghost]

Hi Garry,

I didn't keep an exact count (plus I kept some spares) but I rekon that I used about 25 cans - which painted:

* Front Guards
* Door Tops & Bottoms
* Bonnet
* Tub
* Seat Box
* Radiator panel
* Floor Panels
* Mud splash panels
* Tail gate

25 cans @ $14.95 = $373.75

I did a deal and got 1 in 10 cans for free...

Not the cheapest but consistent colour & availability.

[garrywlh]

I bought Hedley a couple of months ago and am moving as quickly as possible (which is to say 'slowly') towards a rebuild. My hope is that I will have some help this week and get to the point where the engine can come out to replace rings and do a complete overhaul.
In the meantime, I asked the neighbour if I could use his long driveway to test out the gears as best I could.
Here is a little video of a partly disassembled Hedley in action.
YouTube (http://youtu.be/EPm6aO5EBUU)
I noted from the vision from the GoPro camera mounted under the chassis that the front propshaft is turning. I guess this means I am in 4WD without meaning to be. The 4WD lever won't move, so I guess that needs some attention. Also, ignore the horrible crashing and grinding into 1st and Reverse. I have since discovered that I am capable of adjusting a clutch (never done that before :eek:) and gear selecting is now quiet and smooth.
Hopefully I can provide you with a time-lapse video soon of the engine removal.
cheers,
Garry

[Timj]

Hi Garry,

The front propshaft will turn with the front wheels if you don't have free wheeling hubs in the front or if you do they are locked in the 4wd setting. It won't be driving through them though if the transfer case is in 2wd.

TimJ.

[wrinklearthur]

--- I noted from the vision from the GoPro camera mounted under the chassis that the front propshaft is turning. I guess this means I am in 4WD without meaning to be. The 4WD lever won't move


Hi Garry

Unless you have since fitted freewheeling hubs, your photo shows the driving flange which fixes the end of the halfshaft to the wheel hub, the prop shaft should turn while driving and that is a normal situation .

Without having any freewheeling hubs to be disengaged, the wheel hubs then drive the front halfshafts, the halfshafts drive the diff and in turn the diff drives the prop shaft.

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachments/series-ii-iia/62842d1373574568-introducing-hedley-s1100005.jpg

.

[Ozdunc]

Lovin' the underside camera angle:D
How did you mount the camera?

[garrywlh]

Go Pro cam is cool isn't it? It is a tiny little, relatively cheap cam used by pros in tv and video production outdoors (eg., 4WD Action magazine). It is completely waterproof and can be attached almost anywhere via adhesive mounts. I have a mount on the underside of the chassis at the moment. You control it wirelessly from an iPhone. Great gadget. :)

[Ozdunc]

Ive got a GoPro, but not one you can control from your phone. That really is cool.

But I'm not sure you can use that sort of technology near your Land Rover without censure. If you convert it to be turned on and off with some fencing wire though we'll let it pass.:rulez:

[garrywlh]

NOTE TO SELF:

Dear Dopey,

In future, you can save yourself hours of fruitless contortions and swearing practice if you simply add some common sense to the strict instructions in the Operations Manual.

REMEMBER: drop the fuel tank BEFORE attempting to unfasten the final 2 bolts securing the tub to the chassis. And, of course, refit the tank AFTER the tub goes back on.

sigh :)

[Johnno1969]

I pretty much fell for Hedley at the first notes from the Dambusters. Looks brilliant, mate.

Mind you, I didn't think you looked much like Guy Gibson, but maybe it was just the light.

Looking forward to seeing progress on Hedley.

Cheers,

John

[garrywlh]

I pretty much fell for Hedley at the first notes from the Dambusters. Looks brilliant, mate.

Mind you, I didn't think you looked much like Guy Gibson, but maybe it was just the light.


I don't look anything like Guy Gibson, John. And I would have been mightily intimidated in his presence, I think. Maybe I look just a tiny bit like Dave Shannon (617 'L' for 'Leather')?

Anyway, a BIG day for us today and a good one. With some help, we successfully lifted out 2 engines.

Hedley's 2.25 petrol donk is now safely on its cradle, ready to be stripped down and refreshed. Oliver's 2.25 is out too. Poor old Oliver has become a donor and has offered to help in any way he can. His engine was hopelessly seized when i got him, but there may be some useful components that he no longer needs. Otherwise, maybe in the future, there may still be some hope for him.

I know we are at least looking at rings and gaskets for Hedley's engine at this stage. Can't wait to get to work on it. And, once again, this is something I have never attempted before, so it is all very exciting.

Sorry the pics are such poor quality.

Garry

[Johnno1969]

I don't look anything like Guy Gibson, John. And I would have been mightily intimidated in his presence, I think. Maybe I look just a tiny bit like Dave Shannon (617 'L' for 'Leather')?

Garry

Hey Garry,

Yes, I get the feeling that Gibson was rather a strong character. I am going to have to check on the Dave Shannon resemblance. By the way, I'm reading a history of the Lanc at present. Really interesting stuff.

It looks like progress is galloping along there in your shed. I must admit to considerable shed-envy upon seeing those photos.

Looking forward to watching Hedley's progress.

John

[garrywlh]

A little more progress this weekend, doing what you have to do before doing what you need to do before doing what you want to do. :)
I am stripping down Hedley's engine. As I have never done something like this before, I am afraid of losing something or not knowing how to put it back properly, so I am taking copious photos along the way and keeping everything together as logically as possible. I find sometimes the Haynes is more helpful, sometimes the LR Operations Manual. For instance, the Haynes has that great tip about putting the rocker cover on upside down to prevent the rocker assembly from flying apart when lifting it out.
I cleared out 2 shelves in the workshop and cleared enough space to leave a complete shelf clean and clear for engine components as they come off.
Pistons are very carbonised (is that the word?) so I'll be getting my mobile mechanic to come and check out whether the cylinders need attention or whether it is just the rings.
Having a great time with the kids helping at each step of the way. Do you remember that magic moment when as a kid you first saw how cleverly the linear motion of pistons is converted to rotational motion at the crankshaft? I heard suitably admiring sounds from them as I turned the crankshaft by hand and showed them the action of pistons going up and down. A nice 'family moment'. :)

[Dinty]

Dear Dopey, LOL you ain't the first and won't be the last LOL LOL:p cheers and keep plugging away at it, Dennis:angel:
ps this DOPE didn't see that the post was dated 15th Sept either:eek::eek::wasntme::(

[garrywlh]

a little more progress today.

1. Good news about Hedley's engine. A friend who knows a LOT more about engines than I do cast his eye over the engine bits and pieces today and was pretty happy with what he saw. No crud, for example in the oil pump filter or sump oil, and little wear in the cylinders or crankshaft. I am ordering new piston rings, gasket kit and cup plugs. When they come, we'll get together and refurbish the pistons and cylinders; clear out the galleries and get everything cleaned and reassembled. We have decided not to risk messing with the rear main bearing oil seal. Is this a mistake while the engine is out? 'If it ain't broke, don't fix it'?
2. I have made a start on refurbishing the bulkhead that Oliver, the donor, has kindly offered up, as Hedley's bulkhead is very badly corroded. I will need to get new footwells and rubber. When it is fully stripped, I will investigate getting it sand-blasted before priming it and putting it aside while we continue with engine rebuild and chassis deconstruction. If that is too expensive, it will be out with the grinder and sanding wheel!
Off now to cook dinner for the family.
cheerio,
Garry
ps. the first pic is the bulkhead I am planning to use. The next 2 show some of the great holes in Hedley's bulkhead.

[Johnno1969]

a little more progress today.

We have decided not to risk messing with the rear main bearing oil seal. Is this a mistake while the engine is out? 'If it ain't broke, don't fix it'?



If it isn't leaking and you don't actually have to remove it to do any work.... back away slowly without making any loud noises.

[garrywlh]

:D
Thanks John. Good advice. I'll stay down-wind and be very, vewy quiet.

[ezyrama]

Ah, memories of the past when I started on Ralph. Good to see you have found the time to get stuck into Hedley, Garry. Looking forward to seeing someone else doing it ;). I don't think I will be allowed to do another project for a while. SWMBO told me the other day she is only letting me spend so much time on Ralph because she can see the light at the end of the tunnel. I said, go make my lunch woman!:angel:
Cheers Ian

[garrywlh]

Thanks Ian, yes, I look at Ralph, all shiny and clean and straight, and some others on these threads, and it does continue to inspire me. Still mostly fun, but I will not be sad to be past the rust, dirt, grease and crud phase! :)
Waiting on engine parts, but it is nearly the end of school hols, so we were out in the workshop again today. The donor bulkhead is all disassembled now and degreased ready for stripping, sanding and priming.
One question. I am going to get replacement footwells, but how are they attached? I can't figure out from the pics I've seen just where they join on. Are they welded? Rivetted?
cheers,
Garry

[garrywlh]

Hm, sorry for that lazy previous question about footwell panels. Should have done a bit of my own research. Told you I am new at all this.

It seems the panels are spot welded, a common process with automotive panels, and something I have never had anything to do with. There are some great tips about this on Dinty's fantastic 113-372 thread.

Learning all the time. :)

[Johnno1969]

No apology needed. We all throw out questions on the spot as this is a good place for not just getting the basic facts which might be found in books or elsewhere online, but also people's personal angle on them.

I am sure you and Hedley have a big long weekend planned. As for me, I'm painting wheels. I've realised that wheels are probably an important addition to my Landy at this point....

[ezyrama]

You never stop learning with these beauties, that's for sure Garry. When i get Ralph finished, I'll have to bring him up on a shake down run and say hello.
Now to attack the new master cylinder. Have a good day mate.
Cheers Ian

[garrywlh]

You're welcome anytime Ian. They tell me you may need earplugs for a return trip of 5 hours in a Series Landy on the motorway. :) I am happy to shout at you while you're here if that helps.
Seriously though, great idea

[ezyrama]

WHAT??????:p.My series 3 diesel, Smeg was like that. You had to crank the stereo right up to drown out the noise but when you stopped at the lights, the stereo was embarrasingly loud. I am told its not as bad under a soft top as to the hardtop Smeg had, with no roof at the moment, I'll have to pick a sunny day. Look forward to it. Did you take out the engine and gearbox as a whole or just the engine?

[garrywlh]

Just don't forget the sunblock!
No, the gearbox hasn't come out yet. The bulkhead is coming off first and getting stripped down today. Hopefully tomorrow for the geabox and then I'll have a rolling chassis to examine properly, though I already know it is pretty sad.
Just realised though...the 1963 bulkhead I have cleaned up and was planning to use as a replacement for Hedley's rotten 1967 one DOES NOT HAVE THE INDENTATION FOR THE WIPER MOTOR IN THE GLOVE BOX. :angrylock:
Now what do I do? Oh well. I'll keep on keeping on. Maybe I'll have to go to plan B and see about getting the bulkhead pillars repaired after all.
Fun fun, fun.
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=66633&stc=1&d=1381013234

[garrywlh]

Well, Hedley has pretty much been reduced to a rolling chassis. Still have the steering box - which defeated me this morning - and the suspension to remove. Then, of course, brake lines and wiring (need a complete new wiring harness, so hacking away at old wiring. :(
My daughter (15) has been an enthusiastic assistant throughout the school hols.
The prop shafts and gearbox/transfer case came out fairly smoothly - although I hadn't planned for how heavy the gearbox is! The exhaust pipe and muffler had to be deep-sixed unfortunately.
Don't ask me what I'm supposed to be doing with those prop shafts. Just seemed like the right thing to do.
Do any of you experienced types remember back to the first Landy you stripped and rebuilt? Did the thought of putting everything back together again ever keep you awake at night? :eek: Dinty has tried to reassure me that there is nothing to be scared of. I hope he is right.
Anyway, more cleaning up this week sometime and then its time to get a welder in to advise on chassis repairs. I'll post pics of the worst of the chassis corrosion soon.

[1950landy]

Make sure you attach a pull wire to the old harnes before you wemove it from the chassis so you have something to pull the new harnes through with .:cool:

[garrywlh]

Thanks 1950landy. I wondered about that. For now, I just have a G-clamp holding the cutoff wires in place so they don't fall in the hole! :)

[Ozdunc]

Did the thought of putting everything back together again ever keep you awake at night?

Stay strong brother:D

Plenty of photos, scribbled notes (I find the Notes app on my phone invaluable for the times you awake in the night, thinking I must remember to do xxxx tomorrow) and zip lock bags.

There are many times I think I'm in over my head to emerge the other side thinking "That wasn't too bad" or "Next time if I do it that way..."
And what's the worst that can happen? You have to do it again. Frustrating, but not the end of the world, right?

If it was easy, it wouldn't be fun:cool:

[garrywlh]

Calling all welders!

After being knocked back by 2 mobile welders and 1 smash repairer, I am beginning to wonder if I shouldn't take Chazza's advice and do a TAFE course to qualify as a welder myself!

Alternatively, I am hereby offering an all-expenses-paid trip to the beautiful Sunshine Coast hinterland for any of you who are familiar with Landy chassis repairs to take this on. Chazza, I'm looking at you. Just say the word. I will book you on Jetstar.

Having started to remove patches welded onto poor Hedley by a PO, I now feel the need to get some input from this forum before I proceed, to get a better idea what I am in for.

My main question at this point: can you tell by looking at these pics whether the rear spring hangers are in danger from the rust that has eaten into the chassis rail at these points? If so, what? Repairable? Replaceable? Keep in mind I am aiming for RWC and rego in QLD.

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=67396&d=1382324396

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=67397&d=1382324524

I have a brand new rear cross member (with extensions) sitting here waiting to be attached, but I'm now wondering how much work will need to be done on the rails/hangers first? And by whom? :confused:

Is it a simple case of a sandblast, grind back and penetrol prior to fitting the new crossmember? Am I panicking again?

Any advice greatly appreciated.

Garry

[grey_ghost]

Hi Garry,

I am certainly no expert - and I hope that you get other opinions from the good folk on here.
But in my opinion - those rear spring hangers are on dangerous/shaky ground. The reason why I say this:
* In the top picture the rust is at the very edge of the spring hanger.
* In the bottom picture you can see the metal above the spring hanger is rust coloured.
* In my experience with rust - it's not what you can see, but what you can't.
* I would think that the spring hanger needs to be very strong because of the loads/stress it carries..

:(

As I said - purely my opinion, but I would be looking for something like this -

BARGAIN! LAND ROVER SERIES 2/2A/3 SWB 1/4 Chassis Rear Cross Member | eBay (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BARGAIN-LAND-ROVER-SERIES-2-2A-3-SWB-1-4-Chassis-Rear-Cross-Member-/291000114142?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item43c0f55bde)

[garrywlh]

Thanks very much GG. I wondered the same thing, especially knowing how important the spring hangers are.

Yep, I did look at 1/4 chassis replacements on the Paddocks site (that one in eBay is 'pick up only' in the UK, and as much as I'd love to head back to the UK, it might be a bit hard to carry onto the plane. :) )

But, depending on the advice of others, I will certainly consider the 1/4.

I'll have to contact Juddy and see when his next container is heading this way.

Thanks again for the advice.

cheers

[Johnno1969]

I'll start by proclaiming my lack of expertise - but I reckon exactly the same as GG. I would err a long way to the side of caution on this. If in doubt, go further, dig deeper, replace anything dodgy. Don't do any repairs which "might" be enough. From the look of those photographs, the rust damage around that spring hanger runs deep.

Now, that's my tuppence-worth. Hope it helps.

John

P.S. My welding expertise extends to spraying slag around the countryside and setting my Dunlop Volleys on fire, otherwise I would offer my services to assist you.

[Ozdunc]

Hi Garry,
I ,too, reckon you're going to find the rust will have gone pst the hangers in the chassis rails.
But panic ye not. Its all totally repairable with a bit of time and effort.

I'd seriously recommend learning to weld. Not sure you need a full on TAFE course to weld mild steel, but some sort of knowledge about heat, weld penetration and stress risers is going to be a good thing.

Welding is fun. I couldn't weld prior to owning a land rover, but its not hard.
The secret is practice. I spent a good couple of weeks welding scrap bits together, trying to break the joined pieces, and sawing through the welds to look at penetration, and to work out the power settings, line feed and gas pressure on the welder its self.

Assuming you've bitten the bullet and got a nice gas fed MIG welder. First thing you're going to need to do is build a jig to hold the spring hangers and a replacement rear x-member in the correct place. Here's your first welding project!
Think about the worst case senario say the chassis is rotten to 6" past the hanger and you need to cut the hanger off, then replace it in exactly the same place you cut it out from once you've repaired the chassis. Your jig needs to be able to do that.
If you decide that a 1/4 chassis is the way to go, your jig will ensure your chassis goes together correctly.

Even if you decide your welding isn't good enough to repair the chassis its self, having made the jig, you'll have confidence that whoever does the work will get the alignment right.

If this were mine - do some investigation over the whole chassis, be brutal, stab it with a screw driver, esp near where the exhaust goes under the chassis, the front chassis bushes, the cross members supporting the bulkheads, and work out what needs to be repaired. The top of the chassis is usually ok, so you'll alway have a reference point.
Build a jig for the rear hangers, and possibly the front depending on what you find up there.
Start cutting out the rust and try not to panic as large gaping wounds appear.
Weld in your replacements - there are strict techniques to use when repairing chassis (not hard but you need avoid stress risers, so do some reading, esp on techniques coach builders use to extend chassis on trucks ).
Take your time. If you make a mistake it can always be cut out. Penetration is always preferable to pretty on your welds (flap disks can make pretty later).


This might slow down Hedley's rebuild but its a great skill to have(and save you a heap of cash, even buying the welder), and who knows you might get carried away and start building stuff around the house and yard
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/10/322.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/77077238@N08/10340395886/)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/10/323.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/77077238@N08/10340567653/)

I know its not a Land Rover, but it is all my own work :)

[garrywlh]

Ozdunc, I really appreciate this. I was beginning to get seriously discouraged - especially when professional welders out there were starting to knock me back. I think you are absolutely right, and you aren't the first one to recommend that I 'bite the bullet' on this.

There is no time pressure on me fortunately and I took on this whole rebuild to learn some new things - and to have a project that can be done from home and involve my son. Why not learn how to weld?

You've really got me thinking, and if it's ok with you, I might pm you to discuss this a bit further?

cheers

:)

[Ozdunc]

Of course :)

I'm no expert, but I promise to say I don't know, when I don't know:D

[garrywlh]

Well, Hedley has finally been stripped back to bare bones. It only took 4 months! Here is his sad chassis awaiting attention - clean-up, sand-back, and repair!

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=67616&d=1382686979

Also, I had a bit of a win today. After several frustrating phone calls with people whose computer didn't know what BS4800-16C33 meant, or who wouldn't put it in an aerosol can for me, I found a paint place that could supply me Duck Egg Blue enamel in pressure pack cans!

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=67617&d=1382687089

The pistons are back in, having been cleaned up, cylinders have been honed, rings and bearings replaced and hopefully this weekend, its time to paint the block.

The paint place is also a welding supplier so tomorrow I think the bullet is going to be bitten (thanks to all who have encouraged me to 'bite') and I'll be getting a MIG welding rig from them as well.

It's all happening.

Pizza tonight. I don't cook on Friday night!

[garrywlh]

Can't say this was one of my favourite jobs, and I've never quite understood why an engine even needs painting, but it will look pretty I guess.

I just hope I did it right. Thorough clean and degrease of block and head, so many nooks and crannies! Mask up every opening I could find, insert bolts and some old spark plugs. Final clean down with carby cleaner. Etch prime, then 3 coats of the Duck Egg. Sit back with a cheeky little Chardonnay and some cheese crackers. My assistant is enjoying a beer (have to watch that when he starts driving around in his powered wheelchair!)

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=67678&d=1382856280

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=67675&d=1382855596

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=67676&d=1382855697

Sump and various other components still being cleaned and painted satin black.

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=67677&d=1382856004


Garry :)

[garrywlh]

Slowly continuing with Hedley's engine overhaul while I gear up to tackle his chassis. The head is back on, rocker shaft installed, though I did have a slight problem with a broken bolt :mad: which gave me an excuse to go and get an 'Easy Out' and learn how to use it. (5 new rocker shaft bolts on the list!)

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=68056&d=1383465880

Having read many of the glowing recommendations on this forum about the magical properties of molasses, I have finally got around to giving it a go. And what brilliant stuff it is!

I bought 6 litres at the local stockfeed place ($6) and mixed 4 of them with 40 litres of water in a 160 litre plastic box - I reckon for some longer items I could use the plastic wheelbarrow - and threw in these engine components which had surface rust to see what would happen.

I couldn't believe after only 3 days that the bubbles coming to the surface matched the shape and size of the components exactly - down to little round holes where the components had little round holes, etc. :cool:

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=68048&d=1383465576

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=68053&d=1383465670


Today, I took them out and gave them a wipe over and a quick wash down, followed by a coat of penetrol and, voila, ready to paint. :)

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=68055&d=1383465772

The exhaust manifold is currently marinating.

Garry

[garrywlh]

I've been getting my teeth into practicing MIG welding for the past few weeks, so direct progress on Hedley has been slow.

Axles have been cleaned, ground-back and painted. And I have made a start on springs.

The rear spring set you see was soaked first for about 10 days in the magic molasses. I used the plastic trailer that I tow behind the mower. It was long enough to take the longest leaf and, I parked it on the edge of the driveway, so when the time came to empty out the disgusting brew I just had to tip it out. I had it parked in the sun, covered with a tarp, so it got pretty warm in there during the daytime. I imagine this accelerated the rust-dissolving process. Anyway a quick wash and brush and 90% of the rust was gone.

Orange surface rust began to appear very quickly. Next time, I will be prepared for that. But even so, it made it pretty easy to do a final clean with a cup brush; coat with Lanox lubricant and strap everything back together. A coat of primer went on within minutes. The epoxy enamel satin black will go on today.

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=69051&d=1385153833

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=69052&d=1385153938

cheers,
Garry

[Ozdunc]

Looking good :thumbsup:

[Johnno1969]

Wow Garry, you're making great progress. I can see Hedley being back on the road before my vehicle makes it six feet out of the garage....

[garrywlh]

Hi all,

I am still in the early stages of practising my mig welding - I have a long way to go before getting anywhere near Hedley's chassis!

I would appreciate any comments from the experienced welders here about these images. What have I been doing wrong?

Thanks so much to Ozdunc for pointing me in the direction of joining sections using a combination of backing plate, plug welds and a seam weld. This I have attempted to do here with limited success.

I am using 3 mm steel. I have drilled 10mm holes for the plugs. As you can see my weld puddles and beads are messy and there are pits and craters everywhere once everything is ground smooth. I polished every surface prior to welding and cleaned with Carby cleaner. I had the voltage set about in the middle and the wire speed a little slower than the middle. I had gas on 15. I was inside, so there was little moving air to mess with the gas.

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=69879&d=1386762607

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=69881&d=1386763314

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=69882&d=1386763578

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=69883&d=1386763709



As you can see in the last pic, every time I finish a weld, there is a lot of wire sticking out of the nozzle, even though I always start with only about 5mm protruding. Is this a clue to what I am doing wrong?

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=69884&d=1386763814

Feedback appreciated.

[Carzee]

Congrats for giving it go. I should too. :)
I may head over to youtube and see if there's anything there..

EG: Mig Welding Basics: Cursive Technique - YouTube

[ezyrama]

Hi Garry
Practice Practice Practice, and if you can, use a gas mig, not a gasless. Some can be used as both (like the one I used) and I found it a lot easier with the gas. You can but small disposable bottles without having to have an account with those useless twits at BOC or Air Liquide. If it is a dual type you just have to swap the polarity of the electrodes to use the gas. Try a bit more heat to penetrate the steel and go slow but not too slow (Practice).
Cheers Ian

[chazza]

Your preparation is excellent Garry and is what needs to be done for any type of welding :D

Your weld-pool looks to be too cold to me, so turn the volts up high and increase your wire-speed as well. If it continually blows holes in your work, turn the voltage down one click and reduce the wire-speed a wee bit if you feel it stubbing into the work.

A good MIG weld should penetrate the full thickness of the metal and look flatter and smoother than yours.

So a good procedure is to always start with a high voltage; see how it goes; and only reduce the settings by small increments, if it blows a hole far too easily.

You shouldn't need a backing-plate on 3mm steel, unless you are trying to fill a largish hole. When you do a butt-weld, a gap as wide as the metal is thick aids penetration and is usually needed on metal over 1mm thick.

If your welder has a control that says burn-back, try adjusting it until the wire protrusion gets to where you want it.

I usually use 10 l/p/m of gas but 15 l/p/m should be fine.

Finally; if no matter how high you turn the voltage up you don't succeed on 3mm, it may be that your machine doesn't have enough oomph to do so - my SIP starts to struggle at 2mm sheet. I also had great success by changing my wire to 0.6mm after the 0.8mm supplied with it, seemed incapable of welding the thinner gauges,

Cheers Charlie

[1950landy]

A good tip when filling holes in steel plate is to put a aluminum backing plate at the back of the hole.:cool: This will stop the metal from burning away from the hole . & yes gas is easyer to weld with than flux core .

[mick88]

I am not sure if the guy in the demo vid welded in that T shirt, but it's not a good idea. Migs put out a lot of heat and so they can burn your skin very quickly, not to mention the spatter that also burns, especially if it lobs in your bootor even in your ear. The leather apron, long leather gloves and a good set of overalls are a must.

Cheers, Mick.

[Landy Smurf]

It has been a few years since I have used a mig and even more a mig with gas, I wasnt to bad on it though.
Looking as your welds it seems your wire may be going to fast.

[garrywlh]

Exhibiting an unfortunate lack of due care and attention, I managed to lose the crush tubes that surround the bolts on the spring assembly. :mad:

After molasses, prep, lanox and primer, I realised I could not finish strapping the leaves together without the tubes, so I etched primed it anyway and it has been sitting patiently waiting for me to get my act together for a couple of weeks.

Today I had the bright idea of cutting some substitute tubes from a length of 16mm curtain rod! Seems to do the trick.

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=70667&d=1388560356

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=70668&d=1388560440

[garrywlh]

Just needing a bit of guidance, please, as my Green Bible doesn't seem to be of any help.

I am in the process of dismantling Hedley's front leaf springs so they can have a nice long molasses bath and a repaint.

I am baffled by the clamps which are not attached to the leaves with nuts and bolts in the same way as the rear spring clamps.

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=71298&d=1389782358

How are these clamps undone and repositioned?

Any advice greatly appreciated.

Garry

[chazza]

Use an oxy-torch; about a number 10 tip; heat the bend only and prise it up with a screwdriver, then bend it to vertical with vise-grips and work quickly so as not to overheat the spring.

Best done with two people,

Cheers Charlie

[garrywlh]

Been a while since I have posted here. Progress has not ground completely to a halt; but it has slowed to a crawl for a couple of months.

I have been working on the chassis - cutting away rusted sections and previously repaired sections, and sanding/priming in preparation for painting and welding.

Some pics...

A PO had bodged up this repair to the rear X-member. I have a brand new replacement, so took to the dodgy one with the cutter and grinder.

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=72755&d=1392200115

Also removed the very sad fuel tank outrigger and the battery mount. I have a new outrigger and a replacement mount to weld on.

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=72756&d=1392200272

The steel cup brush on the grinder, assisted by some paint stripper, is my best friend at the moment. I'm almost tempted to clear coat the chassis rather than satin-black it, as I love the look of the bright cleaned metal. Nah. Black it is.

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=72759&d=1392201039

When I've finished the top and sides of the chassis, I'll remove the rolling gear and flip her on her back and sides for the remainder. Then comes the welding.

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=72757&d=1392200414

I rigged up this hose to the blower in a futile attempt to clear out some of 50 years of accumulated debris inside the chassis. Don't try this at home. Not terribly successful. The water blaster wasn't much better.

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=72758&d=1392200846

[Ozdunc]

Looking good mate:)

I mean really good! Between you and Grey Ghost I certainly look like a shoddy fly by night cowboy.

Just a quick welding tip I worked out over the Xmas hols (building a frame for a bin cover promised to the boss) - using one or 2 jump leads to earth both sides of the weld makes for a much better initial spark and weld start.
They need to be decent jump leads, but the difference is amazing.

And welding in the slightest wind with a mig is a PITA :D

[Ozdunc]

Oops almost forgot..

Using a drain cleaner attachment on a pressure cleaner seems to work quite well. Feed the hose all the way in and turn it on. Due to the backwards facing nozzles, as you pull it out it brings all the muck and grime with it.
I'm not saying you'll get it all but I got heaps of mess (and unfortunately rust chunks) out of mine.

[Johnno1969]

Oops almost forgot..

Using a drain cleaner attachment on a pressure cleaner seems to work quite well. Feed the hose all the way in and turn it on. Due to the backwards facing nozzles, as you pull it out it brings all the muck and grime with it.
I'm not saying you'll get it all but I got heaps of mess (and unfortunately rust chunks) out of mine.

Yep, it works pretty well.

[garrywlh]

Making slow progress with Hedley's chassis refurb.

Just had a question to make absolutely sure I am good to go welding the new Britpart rear x-member in place.

You can see how a PO had applied ingenuity, skill, imagination and at least $2.50 to the task of replacing the cross member many moons ago. This meant that I had no reference point for building a jig to ensure that the new member would be placed precisely before welding.

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=74434&d=1395293659

To make up for this, I figured I could cut away all the bits and pieces of the bodged assembly, measure the width of the rails and check them for square, then plonk the tub back on, bolted to the front brackets, and use it as my jig. Seems to have worked out ok, after quite a bit of nipping and tucking, as you can see. Rear bolts seem to fit nicely through the aligned holes.

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=74436&d=1395294182

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=74435&d=1395293910

I take it this means I can go ahead and permanently attach the new cross member.

BUT, I can't figure out if I have done something wrong. When bolted front and rear, the tub sits about 1cm above the chassis. This can't be right can it? I have no memory of the set up prior to pulling the tub off, but it just doesn't seem right that it would not be sitting snugly on the chassis.

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=74437&d=1395294312

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=74438&d=1395294419

I don't think the new piece is sitting too high, as the three 'feet' under the tub are raised above the chassis at an even distance front and rear. Did the good people in Solihull intend this?

If not, any suggestions as to what I may have done wrong?

Many thanks,

Garry

[chazza]

I haven't fooled with any of my S2's, but when I took the body off my S1 there were rubber buffers sitting on top of the chassis where it sweeps up over the axle - they are about 10mm thick,

Cheers Charlie

[Ozdunc]

Armed only with a torch and trusty screwdriver, I set off to investigate...

...and can confirm there are some badly congealed pieces of rubber twixt chassis and tub on the S2a.

They're about 5mm but could easily have started around 10mm 45years ago

[grey_ghost]

Hi mate,

You can see the rubber blocks in these pictures. They are pop riveted to the metal bars on the bottom of the tub. There are 6 in total - three down the left side and three down the right side.

In this picture you can see that I replaced one (top left hand side of the picture):

http://i1155.photobucket.com/albums/p549/tomb1971/Roger%20-%201960%20Land%20Rover/IMG_2240_zps9e753eb9.jpg

And here is what the under side of the tub looks like painted... Ain't she pretty!
http://i1155.photobucket.com/albums/p549/tomb1971/Roger%20-%201960%20Land%20Rover/IMG_2248_zps96538952.jpg

[garrywlh]

thanks Tom,

That has to be the most beautiful looking tub underside in the antipodes! I'd be wanting to hop on the workshop crawler every morning with a torch just to glide under and admire it to start my day.

And thanks for the tips, guys. The fact that no such rubber stops existed on Hedley's tub when I removed it months ago led me to the erroneous conclusion that this must be the way it was meant to be. So silly me.

For anyone else who might be looking, I have now discovered that my Parts Manual from Dave's Interesting Things yields the following:

'Mounting pads, rear floor cross member', 6 of.
Part #332582

:)

Garry

[Johnno1969]

I've got to agree, Garry. When I was painting my vehicle's tub, I thought "Really I shouldn't go over the top and paint all the underside". Every time I look at GG's, I think "Shoulda done that!". It is a lovely bit of workmanship.