What have you done to your P38?

[Keithy P38]

Rather than thread-steal, thought I'd start a new one for general mods and upgrades that people have done to their P38's over the years! Who knows, some of the ideas may be secretly unknown to others, might even give someone an idea for something to do to theirs!

I know there's a few of you out there with really handy electrical ones (f'rinstance the delay timer switch is a good one), or others might have handy bypasses or gremlin fixes!

I'll kick it off!

Mod wise I'm at:
- Rear locker
- Snorkel (currently in being fabbed)
- Gen III's
- Traxide SC80 dual battery system (with an isolator switch and manual battery separation via Anderson plug)
- Slightly larger BFG KM2's (255/70) with plans to upgrade to 255/85 once these puppies are dead
- Switch pack for misc switches in place of the "sunnies holder" above the radio
- Permanenet live feed and plugs for LED lighting in the rear

Other stuff that's not really a P38 thing like my foxwing and oztent setup too, but that's more a camping accessory...

I'm in the process of lifting my P38 (and retaining the bags) with about 4" of extra wheel travel at no expense to ride comfort. And as mentioned in other threads, I'm putting my EAS delay timer on/off switch in now too.

Let 'em rip lads/lasses!

Cheers
Keithy

[intheozone]

Good list Keith.

For me, I am still just 16 months into p38 addiction, in that time I have written one p38 off because I did not have a snorkel and went in deepish water, and bought a second p38

Running 255/70/16 BFG KM2 I want 265/80/16
XROX bull bar - 1st one made!
HID spotties
22" LED light bar
Dual battery set up in an arc pac
Gen III airbags arrived and going in this weekend.- Keith I am looking at your mods on this with interest.
GME 3500 UHF

The list of wants is endless... Looking to hear about what engine mods people have made to get a few more horses under the hood.

Good thread

[RoverMac]

Install access panel under rear seat for the fuel pump (as on early RR classics)
Especially if you have a Southdown fuel tank guard.
A marine type hatch is another option

[davidsonsm]

You got me thinking. This is my 2nd p38 (definition of insanity) and I've had it 3.5 years. I'm in too deep to even think about getting rid. She's getting there but like most there is still a long to do list. Apart from replacing all fluids and filters and the usual servicing, this is what has been done to Nora:

2010

Headlining.
New duff duff stereo allowing removal of subwoofer & allowing iPod/Bluetooth etc.
O rings.
New poly bushes.
Twin st stl exhaust.
Gen III bags plus koni shocks.
New plugs & magnacor leads.
K&N filter - but I'll revert back to filter box with the snorkel install.

Bearmach side steps powder coated and fitted.

Brush guards fitted over lights.

New leather handbrake and gear level knobs and gators.

2011

EAS manual kit fitted with extra receiver outlet under bonnet.

Sidewinder battery box fitted off side rear (120ah)

2012

Raised air suspension +25mm plus modded bump stops by +20mm.

Roof rails powder coated and fitted. I use a rhino rack on the rails.

6 x 16"x8" spare rims powder coated as spares - still to be shod with muddies.

Rear swing away wheel carrier fabbed with led spotlight. Also made a Jerry can holder for carrier plus extra Jerry can frame that slots in to hitch.

18" BF at's fitted to 5 hurricane wheels.

Fitted extra deep cycle battery (65ah) in spare wheel well along with compressor which has outlet on rear bumper. The switch is from a remote engine cranking lead so I can activate the 2nd compressor whilst at wheel.

New Deda cranking battery.

LED lights fitted inside and out.

Bi-xenons fitted to headlight.

2x 75w LED light bars fitted.

2013

Rear shelf/drawer built with further drawer and fridge slide in progress. Design allows access to sub floor for extra storage.

Extra LED light installed in boot with switch panel in rear corner. This also controls the led telescopic spotlight.

Made rear seats slightly more vertical - to allow bigger fridge. The slope of rear window plus seats really narrows the usable space on the boot.

MCC bull bar and winch fitted.

EAS isolation switch fitted.

On the to be done list:

Currently getting spare engine rebuilt. More hp desired. Will sell the current GEMs which is only on 150k, to help offset the cost.

LPG donut tank and front end system sitting in garage.

To decide best option for snorkel.

Fit diff guards -sitting in garage.

Make steering guard.

Fit cargo barrier - I have one of the oem dog guards sitting at my folks place in the UK. Wondering if it's regarded as strong enough?

Extra cig lighter and usb outlets in place of ashtray.

Speedo calibration.

Watching the 2"lift projects with baited breath. Should I? Could I? Would I?

There's probably more and no doubt it will demand more over time but it's getting to where I want it to be now. It would be nice to do more pleasure km's rather than the"self fulfilling" ones I always seem to be doing. My wife's patience I wearing a bit thin! Along with the bank balance. It'll be nice when the hemorrhaging stops.

[davidsonsm]

How could I forget diff lockers on the to do list!

[davidsonsm]

Oh yeah. Currently covering the false wood on the door cards and dash with some of that 3D vinyl stuff. Brushed ali. Will post results.

Removed cruise control the other day to.allow more snorkel room. Hence why I've been wondering about the evap canister.

[Keithy P38]

Both got a bit there! And the fuel pump access hole is a good idea for sure! I haven't needed it yet but I'm sure that day will come!

Gotta ask, how do the light bars perform? I've never seen one in action!

Seems a common thing for a few of us to be on P38 #2 as well! Like a few, my first one ended early due to water as well!

[benji]

Love a few of the ideas... 4"extra travel is quite a lot, sounds great!

Weve only had our p38 on the road for a little over 12 months. So far we've got only a couple of things.

Second battery in rear under floor (jaycar 140 amp controller with 2awg cable for future winch, & battery charging in camper trailer. 8awg lead going through the body behind sub for future switch pannel)

Got a second set of rims for mts.

Put in an eclipse head unit in (made the world on difference!)

Put a high torque cam in, noticable increase in torque from 1800rpm. When we bought the car it had a chip to allow it to advance further than normal for lpg, and to two are starting to work well together.

Have a rear bar, winch, uhf, spotlights sitting in the shed.
And d series ecu and 99 valve block in the shed too for a later date.

[Keithy P38]

I was looking forward to an update on your cam benji! You rekon it's a good thing hey? Would be interesting to get comparative before/after synonymous graphs to see how much of a difference it's actually made! Makes the debate on wether to keep the 4.6 or send it elsewhere for an LS conversion instead much harder... In stock form an LS1 doesn't really have that much in terms of torque on the humble 4.6 (405nm vs 470nm for the LS1). Considering the size difference you'd expect more torque than that. I guess they have a smaller stroke than bore so they were bound to be revvers anyway.

[Vern]

,Keith, a few years back a mate of mine rebuilt his 4.6, all he did was top hats, rings and bearings, and had the cam reground to a mild spec, removed the rear muffler and fitted 3" pipe. Thing went really well for what it was, had trouble keeping up in my vz one tonner(v6).

[Vern]

Oh yeah there is this old bugger around my parts putting front and rear ashcrofts in his p38, lifted dobinson coils etc....he might post it up when he's done. Hey frank?:)

[mtb_gary]

For me, there is a 2" lift with Gen111 bags and adjustable shocks courtesy of HRA. under bonnet there is the must have EAS bypass with pressure gauge. I also have 2 sets of wheels, 265/75/16 Maxxis Bighorns for off road and the 255/55/18's for the black stuff. Naturally, recalibrated ride heights. Inside there is an inhibitor switch mounted in the blank spot on the dash to switch off the EAS (I used a second hand inhibitor switch from the wreckers so that it looks like it is supposed to be there). A 5 watt handheld UHF radio with car kit is also mounted into the dash. I also have an additional switch on the dash to control the recirc/fresh blend motor on the drivers side, it was a lot easier than pulling apart the car to replace the motor. In the back of the car I have mounted an auxiliary 12v output for running the fridge.

Gary

[davidsonsm]

Moved the evap canister 150mm to the right today to allow greater room for snorkel. Also moved wiring to higher position. And installed a narva cig and usb power socket board inside the ashtray.

And I've taken some photos of the rehung bull bar showing the alignment with the wheel arch.

[wanglemoose]

coil conversion with rrc std springs and pedders foam cell shocks, swaybar quick release pins, and all of the airbag system but the air tank removed, have another compressor to add in when i get round to it for on board air.

alpine head unit with usb input, all amps removed and speakers running directly off the headunit, also added 4 kenwood 6x9 in box at rear of back seat running off alpine amp.

original spare tyre cover removed and new one made to stand spare on its end and with a door for storage in the well.

4 cupholder center console lid.

maxxis 764 bighorns 265/75/16 x5.

trs 5 liter engine and changed to hp24 auto at the same time.

2&1/2 inch mandrel bent exhaust.

custom built 3 core brass copper radiator.

still to fit;

duel plain 4bbl manifold with holly projection 670cfm throttle body.

EMS 8860 motorsport ecu to run the tbi sequentially.

custom radiator bottle (being made atm) to run at 13psi instead of 20.

flexalite reverse rotation 17" solid fan with adapter hub for std rover waterpump.

thermostat moved to manifold and an empty replacement for std one.

every bush joint etc replaced and new brakes all round.

there's probably more but all i can think of at the moment.

wish list;

snorkel

front and rear locks

stronger axles and cv's

more lift and bfg km2 in 35"

ACE off a disco 2

4l80e trans

whipple twin screw blower

custom front and rear bars, side step/sliders

full exo cage.

a life :p

[rangerdanger]

Here's my list of compulsive tinkering:

Custom rear bar with swingaway wheel and jerry carriers
Tyres 1.5 " over standard
Internal spare wheel mounting bracket drivers side
Front bumper skirt trimmed / foglights removed / DRL lights fitted
IPF spotlights
Custom recovery points front
Custom bashplate front
Custom rocksliders
Custom alloy HD 3/4 length roofrack
Brake Modulator Rebuilt with range rover solutions kit
Heater core bypassed to avoid O Ring leaks altogether
EAS bypass and isolation Airbagman kit
Underbonnet pressure guage on EAS
Water saver alarm with probe in reservoir
Switch in ashtray to turn EAS delay timer on and off
EAS Kicker light
Switch in ashtray to turn Thermo fans on
12V feed to passenger side rear with Anderson plug to fit removal second battery and 2 CIG lighters for fridge and work lights
Custom Twin system exhaust
Removed CD stacker and Subwoofer and created storage box on passenger side for recovery gear, laptop
Window tint
Silver insulation on top of sunroof cover

Wish list:
GEN3 airbags and mild lift
AGM battery in rear with 80 W solar panel
Tornado chip
Desert Cooler Radiator

Phew... I need to spend more time in the bush and less in the shed

[benji]

I'll update on the cam soon, I've only done 300 around town and the ecu has only really started adjusting.

We're going down to the rch on Wednesday and 500 next weekend so that'll do it good.

Just found a dodgy lead today, so have been running on 7ish cylinders (if you ever here a light ticking noise like a leaf caught in the fan under the dash area, that's what a coil arcing on the firewall sounds like...)

It'll do 0-100 in 13 seconds changing at 3000, that was just after it was started though, it feels a bit stronger now.
The aim with the cam was to have the same power and economy with a 1 tonne camper behind. Just after I started it I was getting 12.3 l/100km (I didnt reset adaptive values though), though I would think its on the mark power wise.

[Keithy P38]

It seems that a fair few have done the delay timer on/off mod! I think it's a good thing - moreso for water crossings.

Davidsonsm, that's a good mod you've done there. Do you plan to relocate the air box or are you going to run the snorkel pipe from its current location up through your new space?

Wanglemoose, interested to hear how your 5 litre motor is going! Is it just a stroker kit or are the sleeves bigger too?

Will be good to hear how you go on a good run benji!

[davidsonsm]

Had intended to keep air filter box in original position. But now you mention it, I'll investigate moving it up back. Would involve moving eas box forward a tad me thinks, but that shouldn't be too hard.

[wanglemoose]

It seems that a fair few have done the delay timer on/off mod! I think it's a good thing - moreso for water crossings.

Davidsonsm, that's a good mod you've done there. Do you plan to relocate the air box or are you going to run the snorkel pipe from its current location up through your new space?

Wanglemoose, interested to hear how your 5 litre motor is going! Is it just a stroker kit or are the sleeves bigger too?

Will be good to hear how you go on a good run benji!

the 5 liter only did 4k before it went off the road, due to cooling issues, but it seemed to be picking up power daily. foot to the floor on take off and it would howl all four tyres. not sure about the liners but baught the short engine off triumph rover spares. it comes as a kit with new block with liners already installed, pistons, rings, rods, modified crank, bearings and gasket kit. had to add oil pump, timing cover, heads, manifold, cam, lifters etc to it for the build. with the cam that i used it's supposed to be roughly 300hp 400ft/lb. will be uploading some pics and vids once its back together and will include a dyno sheet.

[FANTOM P38]

Roof Console behind Sunroof for CB & DVD PLayer
Aftermarket Stereo w/DVD,GPS w/IGO Onroad Maps & about to install
OZI Offroad mapping,BT,Rev Cam & camera inputs, Steerwheel control
Side mirror Caneras - view to front wheels
LED Interior Lights
75w HID Headlights
Reverse LED
Removed Cruise switch from dash & replaced this & blank plug with 2x Difflock switches ready for my Ashcroft Lockers ( still to get )

EAS Delay switch w/LED ON mounted above eas switch on dash
Eas Pump ON LED above eas height switch on dash
EAS Bypass w/ pressure gauge - Have but still to fit Onboard air

Fridge Slide & 2x drawer sytem that turns into single bed
Volt meter & power sockets in rear passenger compartment
Led light in rear comprtment
Rear Parking sensors

Roof Rack w/ LED telescopic worklight/ Camp light mount

2" Hardrange lift Kit & recalibrated Heights
GenIII Arnotts Airbags
Adjustable Boss Shocks Front - Bilsteins Rear
Swaybar Quick Disconnect
Set of BFG 33" Muddies - Set of 18" w/Michellins /Spare set 16" Alloys
Modified D2 Bullbar colour coded to body
Custom Built Aussie Desert Cooler Radiator
Modified 2 1/2" s/s Exhuast w/hiflow Cats


To Do List

Full Polybush Kit - Have! just time to fit needed.
2 x AShcroft Lockers
Rock Sliders
Front & Rear Bashplates
LED Lightbar
SLide & Drop Spare Tyre Carrier for roof rack
ARK Powerpak as Dual Battery system (removable)
Winch system - removable for Front/Rear possibly even side setup
Snorkel - Have not seen one I like yet but still thinking about design

Think Thats it! For Now:angel::angel:

[DT-P38]

Neglected, used and abused it.

Scrimped buying second hand parts, paid way too much for nearly 20 year old factory accessories, sniffed out lots of DIY upgrades & fixes, made family and friends collect ebay (including UK!) parts and bring them back to me, waited patiently for the planets to align and fitted a Hardrange lift kit and all their P38 accessories, put some big fat stickers on her, stockpiled spare parts that I haven't really needed, seen most of the VIC High Country, visited a whole heap of Wombat State Forest, met a **** load of top blokes (and a few nice gal's!), slept in her, under her and beside her and...

loved just about every minutes time with my 'pretty pig'!!!

[Keithy P38]

I've got the Ark Pack as my battery box too! Comes in handy if you want to pull the aux battery out and just charge it for a while!

Both my aux and starter are the same dual-purpose battery so they take turns in the Ark Pack every 6months!

[TheTree]

Great thread Keith :cool:

So far I have mainly done service items, including

New battery
ECU Box fan replaced
Various radiator hoses replaced
Replaced all the relays in my fusebox
Replaced all fluids including brake fluid
Serviced the ZF Transmission
Replaced anti-roll bar bushes and links
Replaced ABS pump
Fixed Plenum air filter
EAS Valve Block rebuild
EAS Manual System enhanced with additional line and pressure gauge.
12V outlet in the back
Extended the coolant overflow hose

To come is;
Low coolant alarm, almost finished
EAS Compressor Rebuild
Blend Motor replacement
Oil Pressure Gauge
Voltmeter
GROM USB interface
Rear bar and Tyre plus Jerry Can Carrier
Front winch bar
Load tie down points
Add VIAIR 400C compressor, with regulated nitto outlet and manual run switch.
More 12V and 5V USB power outlets
Rear locker
Reversing Camera
Tyre Pressure Monitors
taillight guards
Water tanks built in perhaps

And the list goes, on ... I just added an access hatch for the fuel pump to my list :cool:

Steve

[snowbound]

How could I forget diff lockers on the to do list!
Yeah how could you forget that, not like you have done anything else to it! :eek:

OK, I admit it, I am jealous. :D

[davidsonsm]

You've started something keithy! Reassuring to know I'm not alone.

[davidsonsm]

Brilliant spread from the LED light bars. Nowhere near as good as spotties for down the road penetration. But with 2x 60w led g4's in bull bar plus the big-xenons and the 2 x 70w from the led's I reckon there's plenty of firepower.

Tell me - was looking at fuel access hatch on previous model but the faulty gauge reading seemed to cure itself. Was planning to use nibbler to open floor. Assume that's the best way to go?

[FANTOM P38]

Brilliant spread from the LED light bars. Nowhere near as good as spotties for down the road penetration. But with 2x 60w led g4's in bull bar plus the big-xenons and the 2 x 70w from the led's I reckon there's plenty of firepower.

Tell me - was looking at fuel access hatch on previous model but the faulty gauge reading seemed to cure itself. Was planning to use nibbler to open floor. Assume that's the best way to go?

Hi Sean, forgot to add that one to my list of mods, i added access hatch recently whilst replacing fuel pump/sender. Means if I have any other issues I can take out without dropping tank again. found it easy to do with jigsaw, I would not attempt while tank is in place as fuel lines are very close to floor!

[rc42]

This is going to become the P38 ideas thread, anyone with a bit of spare time and money will be able to come here and find a way to use up both.

Anyway, my P38 has had the following done to it so far:



Arnott Gen III bags and Terrafirma +2" shocks
Swapped 18x8 rims for 16x8 and fitted 265/75R16 BFG KM2s
HID headlight and driving light upgrade
Replaced sub-woofer with 100Ahr deep cycle battery (basic dual charge system)
2500W pure sine wave inverter
9" headrest screens/DVD players
XBOX 360 (for the kids on long journeys)
Front winch bar from APT with Tigerz11 Grande 12,000 and Dyeema
Rock sliders from APT
Three bar Pro Rack roof bars (15mm spaces front and back to make it all level)
Electric brake controller for trailer
Removed thermostat and radiator bypass pipe
Removed airbox (K&N style filter in use until snorkel is fitted)
Optima yellow top AGM cranking (and winching) battery, only 75 AHr but 1100 CA
40W solar panel on bonnet with solar regulator to keep main battery charged





Still to do, some in progress and the rest is wish-list





Dual swing-away rear bar with dual jerry can option for one side (being fabricated by APT)
Tree slider bars from front bumper to back of rock sliders (APT)
Front and rear diff protection and steering guard (APT)
Long range 155L fuel tank
Front and rear Ashcroft ATB diffs
HD half shafts and CVs (if available)
Double cardan drive shafts
2" lift while keeping EAS
Rooftop tent
LED light bars
More stuff that I see in this thread.........

[Keithy P38]

You've got a bit getting done by APT! It's good to see a lot of people here have got useful mods either being made custom, or are now getting made by aftermarket manufacturers! I mentioned it a few years ago, but I'm gonna say it again - P38's are becoming a more popular 4wd to tinker with, and its great to see they are being used more and more by people who are not afraid to take them off the beaten track! They are becoming the new "classic Rangie".

I for one am glad that all this gear is becoming available. Had it been available 12months ago I would probably already have a front and rear bar on mine, as well as a snorkel. I can guarantee that in the next 12months ill be working plenty of overtime to get a few of these things on my Rangie.

I'll post up a pic of all the gear (in the appropriate thread) for the lift kit that myself and Peter have designed.

Cheers
Keithy

[TheTree]

Hi

I agree it's great to see the addons being manufactured, it seems I bought my beast at the right time :p

Of course i forgot to add

Dual battery with controller and solar panel / aux power input

Remove subwoofer and build storage

Or course reading this thread has lengthened my list :cool:

Steve

[Pete38]

Some good incentives reading the mods shown in here.

My list is short, but there's a few things that will happen once I'm back in Oz.

In now

- Arnott Gen 3 bags
- Ashcroft air locker rear
- trimmed rear bar
- KM2 265/75/16 tyres
- removed front mud flaps
- minor tweak of the eas settings but nothing major until extended shocks.
- Nanocom evo 2 diagnostics (waiting to fix cracked screen)
- eas bypass valves and pressure gauge supplied by hardrange
- front and rear camera (wow)
- After market single din motorised 7 inch deck. Good speakers in front to complement. Rears kept the same
- Recovery and off road stuff like good tyre compressor, staun deflaters, snatch strap.......

What's waiting at home

- Angled spacers and flat spacers parts for the minor lift and extra articulation. Just need welding
- Height sensor arm extension hardware
- Terrafirma extended shocks
- New full suspension bush kit
- New gas struts for rear hatch :o
- Rock slider drawings
- Decent brake pads (EBC Green stuff brake pads)
- Black latex paint for rims. Bling bling

What's on the cards in fairly near future
- Xrox front bar
- Rear bar to match (xrox or my design undecided) with spare wheel carrier added.
- Sill protectors/rock sliders (xrox or my design undecided)
- Winch
- Other underbody protection (diff , steering, air tank, transfer/gearbox/coupling, and fuel tank guards

Further down the track
- Snorkel or some form of raised air intake for water crossings.
- Dual battery
- extra air tank and maybe compressor.

[PaulP38a]

Hmm, well not a lot done on my 2000 HSE:
changed the rims
put in a ICD iPod interface
EAS Emergency Bypass kit
Custom rear bar/carrier (from previous P38)
RH blend motor
reverse camera (in progress)
Nanocom, FaultMate and EAS Kicker and EAS Buddy
Arnott Gen III's
Boge shocks swapped for Bilsteins, but back to new Boges for now.

plus a bunch of stuff lying around that is a roundtoit job, like a set of BFG KM2 255/85R16 when I do the lift kit.

As for the P38 formerly known as the Hard Rangie, I will let the new owners talk about that ;)

[Keithy P38]

Got some things to do yet Paul ;-)

[Ozzyal]

G'Day,
Alan from Torquay here. Not sure if you are still a P38 man, however I'd like to ask if you can recall what drawer setup you used to retain access to the underfloor spare wheel void. Too much space to waste there and as I've already fabricated a swingaway spare carrier I'd like to make the most of space for the the rest of my rig.

Best Regards,

Alan Howlett177116177117

[old dirt bikes]

Hi Folks,
I started by removing the engine to fix all the oil leaks. That went well, top hat liners, It is now 5lt. A lot of work to the cylinder heads, bigger cam, higher compression (10.5 to 1), high flow injectors, Tornado computer, hurricane headers, new coil pack, leads and spark plugs.
New air bags, rebuilt compressor and valve block.
Repainted the roof.
New leather on the front seats.
Covered the console and instrument binnacle with black leather.
Fitted white dials faces to the instruments.
Fitted more wood grain to the dash and then cut the clock and air conditioning aspirator out and fitted an 8.8 inch head unit with GPS blue tooth, dash cam, etc, etc.
Fitted an aftermarket interior rear view mirror with a rear view camera.
I made a dash pod to house 5 aftermarket gauges and fitted it without drilling any holes in the dash.
I recovered the steering wheel with black leather.
Fitted a second battery in the rear with a smart relay under the bonnet to charge it. I also ran heavy battery cable to two battery switches, one to join the 2 battery's together and the other will supply power to the winch.
Removed the cat converters, they wouldn't fit with the extractors, that is my excuse, and a 2.5 inch system. I might go up to 3 inch later.
Slotted rotors, overhauled all the calipers and fitted the kit into the brake modulator and replaced the hose from the pump to the modulator with a braided stainless steel one.
Made up and fitted a set of valves and a gauge for the air suspension.
Started building a bull bar, not finished yet.
Fitted a set of 9 inch LED spotlights.
Fitted a Uniden UHF.
Have a Maxi Drive rear locker, not fitted yet.
Fitted a set of 6 Carline switches into the front ashtray hole. One is the override for the condenser fans.
Fitted 3 cig lighter and 2 usb ports where the rear ashtray used to be.
Fitted 2 cig lighter and 2 Anderson plugs in the rear.
Renewed the hoodlining.
Replaced the insulation under the bonnet.
And I will think of some more tomorrow, Alan

[Keithy P38]

G'Day,
Alan from Torquay here. Not sure if you are still a P38 man, however I'd like to ask if you can recall what drawer setup you used to retain access to the underfloor spare wheel void. Too much space to waste there and as I've already fabricated a swingaway spare carrier I'd like to make the most of space for the the rest of my rig.

Best Regards,

Alan Howlett177116177117

G’day mate, most definitely still a P38 man! I like where you’re headed with this.

My drawer setup is home made, so there’s no brand as such. It takes 3 bolts to secure it to the floor in the rear. Those holes were drilled by the bloke I bought the P38 from, and it’s done hundreds of thousands of off road kilometres, with literally no issues, scratches or breakages.

I can put in some updated pics if you’d like? Maybe even with the bolts that secure the drawers showing.

I hope this helps mate 👍🏻

Cheers
Keithy

EDIT: I just realised this post is from 2013, just before I purchased the silver P38. I’m sure there are pics out there on the forum, or you can find a good vid (granted it’s about 5 years old now) on YouTube here:

A Tour of a tough 4x4 - Range Rover P38 - YouTube (https://youtu.be/f8qWwy0o8nk)

[Keithy P38]

Hi Folks,
I started by removing the engine to fix all the oil leaks. That went well, top hat liners, It is now 5lt. A lot of work to the cylinder heads, bigger cam, higher compression (10.5 to 1), high flow injectors, Tornado computer, hurricane headers, new coil pack, leads and spark plugs.
New air bags, rebuilt compressor and valve block.
Repainted the roof.
New leather on the front seats.
Covered the console and instrument binnacle with black leather.
Fitted white dials faces to the instruments.
Fitted more wood grain to the dash and then cut the clock and air conditioning aspirator out and fitted an 8.8 inch head unit with GPS blue tooth, dash cam, etc, etc.
Fitted an aftermarket interior rear view mirror with a rear view camera.
I made a dash pod to house 5 aftermarket gauges and fitted it without drilling any holes in the dash.
I recovered the steering wheel with black leather.
Fitted a second battery in the rear with a smart relay under the bonnet to charge it. I also ran heavy battery cable to two battery switches, one to join the 2 battery's together and the other will supply power to the winch.
Removed the cat converters, they wouldn't fit with the extractors, that is my excuse, and a 2.5 inch system. I might go up to 3 inch later.
Slotted rotors, overhauled all the calipers and fitted the kit into the brake modulator and replaced the hose from the pump to the modulator with a braided stainless steel one.
Made up and fitted a set of valves and a gauge for the air suspension.
Started building a bull bar, not finished yet.
Fitted a set of 9 inch LED spotlights.
Fitted a Uniden UHF.
Have a Maxi Drive rear locker, not fitted yet.
Fitted a set of 6 Carline switches into the front ashtray hole. One is the override for the condenser fans.
Fitted 3 cig lighter and 2 usb ports where the rear ashtray used to be.
Fitted 2 cig lighter and 2 Anderson plugs in the rear.
Renewed the hoodlining.
Replaced the insulation under the bonnet.
And I will think of some more tomorrow, Alan

Have you got any pics to share mate? It sounds well kitted out 👌

Cheers
Keithy

[old dirt bikes]

Hi Folks,
Keithy I will get some photos in the next couple of days. I will need to give the old girl a bit of a clean first. I got a load of contaminated fuel in the Range Rover and spent days cleaning all the fuel system out, and now I am a bit behind with things.
I did think of a couple more things. When I did the motor I replaced all the radiator and heater hoses and the header tank, twice. The first one only lasted a couple of weeks and it split along a seam. I made a alloy connector piece to replace the thermostat housing in the bottom hose, and fitted a 85c thermostat in the intake manifold. I also fitted a Aussie Desert Cooler full alloy radiator. And I fitted an engine guard with 2 sensors, one on the back of each head. I also fitted a low coolant alarm, but I haven't fitted the sensor to the second header tank yet.
I also covered the gear knob and hand brake handle with black leather.
I have a plan to build a alloy roof rack and a steel rear bar with 2 spare wheel mounts. Then I can fit another fuel tank in the standard spare wheel place.
Regards,
Alan

[Ozzyal]

G'Day Keithy,
good to hear from you....hope the recovery is progressing well mate. I've seen the video which is great. A few stills would be awesome tho, especially the mounting points and access to the spare wheel void. From memory I think you have your LPG tank in there? I plan to use it for rarely required (but very handy) spares etc. My current thoughts are to remove the floor panel thereby exposing the wheel well and being able to slide drawers off their runners to give access to the wheel well.
Cheers,
Alan

G’day mate, most definitely still a P38 man! I like where you’re headed with this.

My drawer setup is home made, so there’s no brand as such. It takes 3 bolts to secure it to the floor in the rear. Those holes were drilled by the bloke I bought the P38 from, and it’s done hundreds of thousands of off road kilometres, with literally no issues, scratches or breakages.

I can put in some updated pics if you’d like? Maybe even with the bolts that secure the drawers showing.

I hope this helps mate 👍🏻

Cheers
Keithy

EDIT: I just realised this post is from 2013, just before I purchased the silver P38. I’m sure there are pics out there on the forum, or you can find a good vid (granted it’s about 5 years old now) on YouTube here:

A Tour of a tough 4x4 - Range Rover P38 - YouTube (https://youtu.be/f8qWwy0o8nk)

[Keithy P38]

Gday Alan’s! I’m going to have to name you based on username haha

Old Dirt Bikes, I do like the sounds of your setup. You’ve got all of the right sensors and alarms in the key spots. You’ve been hard at work replacing and securing the cooling system too. Nothing could possibly pass your watchful eye, that’s for sure!

I’ve found my external temp gauge very beneficial in terms of monitoring how the cooling system operates, especially given the 35+ degree and 80-100% humidity days over summer. P38-ing up here is a balance - viscous fan is no good for long periods or idling, whereas my thermofan setup (long story, but basically it’s out with the viscous and in with a BF Falcon thermofan) is no good for heavy load driving in summer, but awesome everywhere else.

Ozzyal, thanks heaps mate. No rest for the wicked, things have deteriorated for me, so I’m kept busy with hospital and rehab appointments daily. Fighting hard though! I appreciate it mate.

I can definitely grab some photos of the bolt-down setup. If I can’t get any decent ones, I might have to video so I can explain it.

You’re right, I have a massive donut LPG tank in there. I’ve also got all my spare air springs and tools in there too. When you remove the jack and accessory holder, you gain tonnes of room in there. Weight distribution is the biggest thing I’ve found. Keeping it balanced. I like your idea - it’s definitely the greatest use of space in my opinion. Beware that the compartment does leak water if you plan on ‘going deep’ on the crossings. It doesn’t leak fast, but enough to wet the items right at the bottom.

Cheers
Keithy

[old dirt bikes]

Hi Keithy,
I must have missed something, have you been sick or something. I hope you are getting on top of things. I have been doing battle with skin cancer ( malignant melanoma ) and some others. I have had 18 operations and I still have a couple more to get cut out. And like you say the doctor and hospital appointments keep you busy. Anyway I hope you are getting better.
Regards,
Alan

[Keithy P38]

Thanks Alan (ODB ). Your battle sounds unreal - skin cancers are a mongrel that move fast. 18 operations would start to take its toll, and no doubt a lot of time getting them out, I can’t imagine it to be an enjoyable experience.

I myself have a heavy duty grade 3 brain tumour going on at the moment. It knocked me for 6 around November last year, but I pulled through. The thing (was) twice the size of a cricket ball, and there’s about 5-10% of it that they couldn’t remove.

It would have been easy to miss in regards to yourself not hearing of it, I did a few vid’s up on my YouTube channel about it when it all began. I had to remove one vid, the family thought it was a bit much to share. If you type my name in a YouTube search (Keithy W) you’ll find my vids and a bit more about what I get up to with the P38. I’m due to chuck another vid up soon about the health, as you mention, finding the time and energy keeps me busy!

I hope you’re keeping well mate, and your battle is heading the right way.

Cheers
Keithy

[old dirt bikes]

Hi Keithy,
bloody hell, that is bad news. But keep up the good fight. My fight is nothing compared to yours, but I am dealing with secondaries now. Cancer cells that have escaped from the primary one, and attached themselves and started to grow. I have a couple more weeks for the skin on my right hand to stretch a bit before the cut some more out. So I am trying to get as much done at the moment before my hand is all cut up with stitches. I am trying to finish off building a mezzanine floor in my shed so I can put all my bikes and bits and pieces up there and then I will have some space back to work in. I didn't need a tank full of premium fuel contaminated with water, it took me days to pull everything apart and clean all the water out. The fuel pump seized and the injectors were almost completely clogged.
Anyway best wishes for a speedy recovery. Regards,
Alan

[Keithy P38]

G’day mate, that’s heavy to hear re: your secondaries. I hope treatment sorts it out and you can get back to some normality. You’ve definitely had your hands full with the fuel system. It’s amazing how much of a mongrel a bit of water can be. Fingers crossed the injectors were just a matter of cleaning. I had the Mrs recently put petrol (premium, no less) into her diesel BT50, so that was a fun task for me, especially given the current events. Luckily she identified it before driving anywhere, so I pulled it home with the P38 and drained and flushed everything and it lives again.

I hope everything goes smooth mate.

Cheers
Keithy

[old dirt bikes]

Hi Keithy,
it rained yesterday evening so I didn't have to wash the dust and mud off the P38, so I got some photos this morning. They are a bit all over the place, but I am sure you will work them out. I painted all the interior lights and grab handles dark grey instead of the yuck cream they are originally. The 2 way radio is mounted behind the glove box, with the mike near the steering column. The top right photo shows the fuses and relays for all the accessories.The second row left photo shows some of black leather I put on the console. The second row, second from the right shows one of the front seats I replaced the leather on. The second row, right photo shows the 2 battery switches, one to join the front and rear battery's together, and the other one is to supply power to the winch when I get time to fit it.The third row center photo is the rear power outlets in the ash tray position. Third row right photo shows the air suspension valves. The black bit is a Nitto air fitting to plug in an air hose. The fifth row, left photo shows the switches I fitted into the front ashtray space. Let me know if you want me to explain and of the other photos.
Regards,
Alan


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[Keithy P38]

I’ve just had a good look through your post mate, that’s a pretty good looking setup! Everything has a purpose and is easy to navigate 👍🏻 I’m very jealous of the 5.0!

Cheers
Keithy

[zzsteve]

Alan,

Very nice modifications. What is the brand/model of the double DIN entertainment system you have installed into the glasses holder space?
Any issues integrating it with the P38 outstation amps in the doors etc...?
Thank you very much for sharing these images.

Steve

'97 HSE

[old dirt bikes]

Hi Steve,
it is a 'Joying' head unit. The hardest part is getting the courage to cut up the best wood grain dash section you could find. But once you make the decision to cut the rest is not that hard. I do have some photos of how I got it to fit and how it is mounted. I did reprogram it to change the way the display looks. I did have to do the mods to the door amps to get rid of the buzzing noise from the feed back. I would of kept all the instructions on the modifications I had to do.
I have to go in for an operation on my right hand on Monday, so I might try to do a wright up on the installation process while I am recovering. It is made in China, but it is a very good unit. And there is support in Australia. It cost a little more to purchase one in OZ but worth it for the back up. I had a question about the steering wheel controls and they answered my question quickly and I got the steering wheel controls all working.
regards,
Alan

[old dirt bikes]

Hi Steve,
I forgot to tell you it is a 8.8 inch wide screen Joying head unit.
Regards,
Alan