Limited choice of oil.

[ludovic]

Hi all. I am just about to change my engine oil but I am a bit confused. My disco is a 94 3.9 V8. It has done 230k kms. Browsing the forums, i feel perplex as of what to buy. Some recommend full mineral, others swear by full synthetic. Given the choice available locally, Penrite and Nulon( mobil, shell and castrol are 90$ for 5 litres, so around 180$ for a change.), what should I actually go for? I have in my garage 10L of of Penrite 20w60 hpr diesel, high performance mineral oil. Couldn't i use that even though it is diesel specified?
I also have two oil filters left by the previous owner. A Ryco Z89A, and a K&N HP3001. The one currently on the car seems to be a standard item. Which one should I go with?
I know it has been covered, but all the different answers are a bit confusing, so I apologise in advance.
Thanks.

[Eevo]

if the only choices are nulon and penrite

Nulon Hi-Tech Fast Flowing Synthetic Engine Oil - 10W-40
Penrite HPR 5 Engine Oil - 5W-40

both are base III oils, a hydrocracked oil. both are called synthetic here in aust. (in europe it would be called a mineral oil due to legalities)

i won't comment about using the diesel oil. 20w won't provide lubrication at start up and 60 won't provide correct lubrication at operating temp imho


nothing wrong with ryco oil filters imho.

[olbod]

I only ever use Penrite oil.
A few years ago I asked Penrite about using the diesel oil in my V8 ?
They said it would be fine and no problems.
I change the oil about every 7 or 8 thou. It always comes out spotless with little colour change.
I just use a Ryco filter.
It also doesn't use any oil between changes.
It marks its territory a little but not with engine oil.

[ludovic]

Thanks. There are so many posts and info on the subject out there that it gets quite hard to process. I am restricted by budget in fact, $100 in fact. I limited the choice to these two brands as I can afford ten litres of it, an oil pan and a wrench, and they're australian. But I am not against any other that might fit the criteria( $80/10L).

[Eevo]

$100 in fact.

both the oils ive listed ive picked up for $50 on special, normal price $60.

you need 6.7l for an oil change. why not buy a 5L and 2x 1L bottle. (instead of 2x 5L) will be cheaper then $100.

[Eevo]

It always comes out spotless with little colour change.


alternative line of thinking: if the engine is dirty (which all engines are), and the oil comes out clean, it means it not picking up the dirt, etc.

just a thought. :)

[ludovic]

Yes, you might be right. I need to go have a look around again. But when i was shopping around in automotive stores, i don't know if it is inventory season, they all seemed badly assorted. You would find a 5l but not two 1l of the same reference, or vice versa. Just thought it made sense getting 10l and have some spared (yeah, she drips a little...).

[Eevo]

(yeah, she drips a little...).
if you need 6.7l and get 7l, you'll have 300ml left over.

im not sure how many drips are in 300ml, but im guessing a few

[Tank]

Castrol Magnatec 10W-40 is all I ever used in my V8 Discos, reasonably priced and good quality, Regards Frank.

[loanrangie]

Its overkill using hi tech oil in a 50's tech rover V8, i used to just buy valvoline 20w50 in a 6ltr bottle and a ryco Z9 for less than $30 combined .
Once both my old rangies got up to 270k i used Penrite HPR50 because we knew the rep so got a good price and it did make a noticeable difference with the thicker oil in a tired engine (1x had a hard life).

[Eevo]

Its overkill using hi tech oil in a 50's tech rover V8.
i want to disagree for 2 reasons.
1) the engine was continually updated from the 50's
2) new oil has better properties than oil thats spec for the 50's.
i do agree running a base iv oil (or more) is overkill


,it did make a noticeable difference with the thicker oil in a tired engine (1x had a hard life).
i know the common line is that tired engine will be worn out and have larger clearances, hence the need for thicker oil, but a worn out engine will also have small clearances in parts where there is buildup and a thicker oil will block these up or create undue higher pressures.

[loanrangie]

Upgraded, barely. The bottom end and heads are virtually identical to the buick V8 they were cast off.
Regular oil change is more important that the oil used, any half decent mineral oil will do for the RV8.

[Eevo]

Upgraded, barely. The bottom end and heads are virtually identical to the buick V8 they were cast off.
aside from the metals used and the finish of the engine, newer oils provide better protection, not just for new engines, but old ones too.



Regular oil change is more important that the oil used,
your 110% correct about this.


any half decent mineral oil will do for the RV8.why use a base I or II when a base III, which is better, costs only slightly more?

[101RRS]

I have to agree with Loanrangie - any brand name 20w50 oil bought from a reputable seller will go well in a Rover V8. I have had three of them over the past 20 years and still put whatever is available in my current 3.5, its gearbox and transfer case - no issues.

It is so easy to get carried away with this oil and that oil for these engines when in reality it is just so easy 20w50 in a reputable oil will be fine.

Garry

[bee utey]

I have been using the 20W-60 Penrite oils in a wide range of LRV8s and other common engines for over 25 years, never had a problem with cold start lubriation or cam wear. If you have 10 litres of the diesel oil I wouldn't hesitate in using it. Change it at 7-10K depending on your amount of top gear cruising.

[Eevo]

20W-60
why on earth do you want to run something that thick at both start up and at operating temp?

[bee utey]

why on earth do you want to run something that thick at both start up and at operating temp?

It's not that thick. I've tried the thinner stuff and don't like the results.

I run it because

25+ years experience without issue. I know by experience my engines will still be relatively unworn at 400,000km plus.

I tend to push my engines hardest at lower RPM, ie 2000 to 3000 max and like plenty of oil pressure at that speed.

Lower drain off and faster build up of oil pressure on start up.

Better oil pressure when driving/towing in 40 degree heat.

I'll put dishwater grade oil in engines specifically designed for it, ie modern and less than 160,000km old. Otherwise it gets the slightly thicker stuff. I generally read viscosity grade recommendations in hand books to get an idea and err on the slightly thicker side if there's considerable age on the machine.

[Eevo]

It's not that thick. I've tried the thinner stuff and don't like the results.

I run it because

25+ years experience without issue. I know by experience my engines will still be relatively unworn at 400,000km plus.

I tend to push my engines hardest at lower RPM, ie 2000 to 3000 max and like plenty of oil pressure at that speed.

Lower drain off and faster build up of oil pressure on start up.

Better oil pressure when driving/towing in 40 degree heat.

I'll put dishwater grade oil in engines specifically designed for it, ie modern and less than 160,000km old. Otherwise it gets the slightly thicker stuff. I generally read viscosity grade recommendations in hand books to get an idea and err on the slightly thicker side if there's considerable age on the machine.
weight 60 is between 21.9 - 26.1 cSt
compared to a 40 which is 12.5 - 16.3.
you might as well be running honey.

pressure does not equate to flow.

and im still not sure why people go thicker with older


but if it works for you, thats great.

[bee utey]

you might as well be running honey.



I can assure you that there's nothing honey like about this oil when I drain it at operating temp. I feel you don't quite understand the temperature effect on oil viscosity and how mulitigrade oils work. It still thins down quite a lot when hot.

[Eevo]

I feel you don't quite understand the temperature effect on oil viscosity and how mulitigrade oils work. It still thins down quite a lot when hot.
at 100degrees, a 60 weight oil won't provide as much lubrication as a 40 weight.

our engines were designed with about 40 in mind.
i cant think of any engine where 60 should be used.

[ludovic]

Thank you all for your advices and info. Finally went with penrite hpr 5 in 5w40 and the K&N hp3001 filter. The drained oil was black as. Glad I did the change now. The car seems to be running smoother already.
While I was down there, I saw droplets of a red liquid that i assume is transmission fluid. I have yet to trace the source of the leak but the liquid seems to have been everywhere at the bottom of the engine. I tried to get a level reading on the dipstick but whatever the method i can not verify anything accurately. Can i just top the trans reservoir with fresh fluid while i wait for a big service?
Also, my power steering always felt stiff at start up. I assumed it was just because it was cold and had no pressure in the system. But after checking the level yesterday and putting the cap back on, the stifness is gone. I did not like the color of the fluid though. What color is it usually?

[Tank]

Red, the same as Auto trans fluid, if you park your vehicle on level ground and at first startup, while trans is cold, run the stick up and down the gears a few times.
Then remove dipstick (with trans in Park or Neutral and engine idling properly, not on choke) clean, dip dipstick in and out, don't leave it sit, should give correct reading. Too much oil can cause problems so don't go topping up unless you are certain of the fluid level, 5w-40 is a bit thin IMO, but to each his own, Regards Frank.