View Full Version : So what oil should I have in the LT95?
Sleepy
19th July 2013, 07:06 PM
Now that dseddn's dramas have made me nervous ive decided to do gearbox / t case oil change because I really have no idea what's in there.
So what does everyone run?
101RRS
19th July 2013, 07:11 PM
Your title has 230 added on - the LT230 tfr case is completely different to the LT95 gearbox/tfr case combo.
I believe in keeping it simple - the book says use engine oil and that is what I have used with no issues.
I would not temp fate using anything else.
Garry
Bearman
19th July 2013, 07:12 PM
Now that dseddn's dramas have made me nervous ive decided to do gearbox / t case oil change because I really have no idea what's in there.
So what does everyone run?
Hi Sleepy, Unless your's has been modified it's just a LT95 gearbox/transfer, the LT230 was behind the other types of boxes e.g LT85, LT77, R380. Just use 15w40 engine oil in everything ( engine,gearbox and transfer).
Sleepy
19th July 2013, 07:19 PM
Hi Sleepy, Unless your's has been modified it's just a LT95 gearbox/transfer, the LT230 was behind the other types of boxes e.g LT85, LT77, R380. Just use 15w40 engine oil in everything ( engine,gearbox and transfer).
Sorry guys, too many reds with dinner - delete reference to the 230! :whistling:
Yes just a standard set up thanks.
What is the theory behind this. (Not to cluey about oils:angel:)
bobslandies
19th July 2013, 07:33 PM
Sorry guys, too many reds with dinner - delete reference to the 230! :whistling:
Yes just a standard set up thanks.
What is the theory behind this. (Not to cluey about oils:angel:)
When the gearbox was fitted to the first Range Rovers fitting the oil pump to force lubrication was seen as a good idea. Auto transmission fluid and engine oil were recommended but as soon as mechanics were doing servicing and oil changes the situation became "Looks like a gearbox - so put in gear oil". The result was seizing and failures like shown as the thicker oil, particularly in colder climates, would destroy the pump and not flow through the fine tolerances in the new design.
That's how it was explained to my friend whose new RR needed a gearbox rebuild after a major service by his local dealer.
Bob
Sleepy
19th July 2013, 07:42 PM
"Looks like a gearbox - so put in gear oil".
Mmmmm sounds like something I would do :angel:
Blknight.aus
19th July 2013, 07:55 PM
I split it 50/50, if you mainly use it fast on the high way with light loads, run a 10/30wt or ATF.
if you make it work for a living use 15/40 if its playing nice, if its getting a touch noisey 20/50 old engine oil is the thickest oil I reccomend for it.
Using thicker oil kills the early box pump drives and if you have the later box with the uprated pump drive using thicker oil collapses the strainer blocking the pick up to the pump which has the same end result.
justinc
19th July 2013, 08:20 PM
I'm currently using valvoline duragear 75w85 in both. very happy so far.
jc
cooee
20th July 2013, 08:00 AM
hi sleepy :)
jeff use 20 w 50 in your 101 as mate of mine I did few trip in your 101 no worries
cheers cooee:D
Mick_Marsh
20th July 2013, 08:26 AM
"Looks like a gearbox - so put in gear oil"Mmmmm sounds like something I would do :angel:
It's something I did.
It took a couple of hundred km to realise I had done something wrong. All the gears are on parallel bearings shimmed up on the shaft. The thicker oil can't get into the shims quickly enough. They overheat and crack up.
As I needed to replace all the internals of the transfer case, I opted for the tapered roller conversion. All the gears are individually set on tapered roller bearings.
Perhaps I may be able to run gear oil in it now but I won't risk it.
Oh, don't put the red in it. Best drink it.
Sleepy
20th July 2013, 05:11 PM
Ok thanks guys I didn't want to ruin the other thread with my ignorance. Ta!
Yes mick, although not a connoisseur of oil I know where to put the other claret coloured fluid.😜
Powered by vBulletin® Version 4.2.4 Copyright © 2025 vBulletin Solutions, Inc. All rights reserved.