1963 S2a 88" (2.25p) "Doris"

[TeamFA]

G'day!

We have recently purchased our dream car... a 1963 S2a, 88", named Doris.

Purchased from a farm in NSW, she is currently unregistered, but driveable. Although she was last driven 2 years ago, after a battery transplant she fired up pretty easily on the 2-year old fuel (2.25l petrol). The engine runs very quiet, all gears, forward and reverse, 4WD and high/low range all seem normal. Brakes work (as well as a series ever work when standard!), and clutch action feels good.


Trailered home, she's sitting in our garage waiting for us to get back from our overseas trip in a couple of months, whereupon we will start working on getting her back on the road.

She appears to be fairly stock, except for:


Stromberg carburetor fitted (suspected original Solex in a box in the back),
Bullbar fitted (now removed, and free to a good home, as it won't be required),
Rear crossmember replaced with some welded steel section,
Who knows what else?

She came with some spares:


additional engine block. Application of grips on the crankshaft turns the engine over, complete with rods and pistons,
additional head,
additional diff (not known if front, rear or neither!),
additional axles (as above, but suspect matched with above!),
additional front panel (with grill and headlights),
some buckets of as-yet unidentified stuff.

She is destined to become the daily town car for the fairer half (replacing the current Daewoo Lanos), and weekend short drive car.

This is our current rough plan:


Remove all of the bodywork, inspect bodywork and chassis (firewall!) for rust. Firewall has a couple of bubbling spots, but doesn't look too bad... (yet!)
Learn to how to sandblast, weld, and generally repair any damaged of the above,
Assess the engine, with the possibility of a rebuild/refresh where necessary,
Reassemble, re-painting along the way. We currently have our hearts set on the rarer "sand" colour body, with limestone top. From our research, getting this colour might prove troublesome, so any advice would be greatly appreciated,
Replace the rear crossmember with a more genuine item, and find some below-door panels,
Leave the engine fairly well stock, with the exception of perhaps an electronic ignition, and investigating the possibility of fitting a brake booster (but leaving the drum brakes). Investigate the feasibility of converting to run on unleaded (don't know much about this as yet) while assessing the engine.
Fit a heater!

Regards seating and registration, the following is what we would ideally like to do:


Replace the aging and non-standard front seats with the Exmoor Trim "Deluxe Front Seats", and fit to both sides in the load area the Exmoor Trim 2-Man bench seats, giving a 7-seat total,
Fit seat belts to all positions (understanding engineering certificate may be required for this, but happy to do so) - assuming lap belts would be sufficient.


We would also like to have the ability to have the roof on in winter, but to remove it in summer, and replace with a canvas roof hood and sticks. If this isn't a possibility legality-wise, then we would probably stick with the hood and sticks (pun intended).

Anybody who has had experience with doing this or know if it's possible (or not!) to be done in Queensland, your advice is greatly appreciated. We have been scouring the threads in the past few weeks, but getting a definitive idea on our setup is proving difficult.

Cheers!
Michael and Anneleis

[Landy Smurf]

I have driven that one before. It does drive pretty well and I think you got it for a good price.
It does have some rust though in the pillar or a pillar aka side of the firewall and doors and maybe a little in the chassis.
The steering is quite good and gears are good as you said.
The brakes and suspension do need some attention though.

[TeamFA]

The brakes and suspension do need some attention though.

Ah yes... I forgot to mention that the suspension is poorly. We drove it down the rough dirt road outside our property near Bundarra, with all of the spares in the back... that was an experience!

[Landy Smurf]

LOL It is a good road to test it out. From memory the brakes were ok but pulled a lot to the right?
I am assuming the owner david(?) told you a bit of the history of it.

[TeamFA]

It was David - your memory seems to be in better nick than mine. Mentioned that he bought it from down on the coast.

I must admit I didn't notice a pull to the right on the brakes, but then I was slightly overwhelmed with everything else that was different at the time, after climbing out of the relatively soft and modern Defender. No synchros on first and second will take a little getting used to!

How long ago did you drive it, if I may ask?

[Landy Smurf]

3 months ago or there abouts.
The person who owned it before him was in the sydney land rover club hence the symbol on the bonnet.
It was this owner who did the repair work.
I think the footwells have been replaced as well but I can't remember that well.

[garrywlh]

G'day Michael, Anneleis and 'Doris'!

Great looking Landy! Mine is a '67 SWB named 'Hedley' and he is worse shape than 'Doris'! Just starting the rebuild journey.

Looking forward to your rebuild!

cheers,

Garry

[Dinty]

Rebuilding a Series Land Rover is just like playing with a large Meccano set, you just have to remember where everything goes and in what order it needs to go back together, have a look at this if you have time, it is my S2A 88"GS ex military, but apart from the raised chassis everything is the same as a civilian Land Rover
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/leaf-sprung-military-land-rovers/111187-113-372-a.html
anyway I'm sure you will not be far from help if you need it at anytime, cheers Dennis:angel:

[TeamFA]

G'day all!

A year has passed, and life has kept us too busy to do much (anything at all, really) to Doris.

We're now going to start dedicating time (and money) to her in ernest.

We've got the bodywork off, the photo below is from last weekend. We've since removed the under-door pieces (4 nice rusty nuts and bolts that took an hour to remove), and the front bumper monstrosity. The front chassis end has rusted previously, and a previous owner had welded and bolted a lot of metal to cover and reinforce everything.

Next is to start removing things from the engine bay.

We're going to be repairing the chassis at the front at the spring hangers - I've seen that you can buy these sections to weld in. We also have to do the rear bumper, as it has a "custom" one fitted to it.

The sides and the footwells of the firewall also need new bits welded in.

I've seen these bits for sale at Paddocks and the like - does anybody have any experience buying these bits in Australia?

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/

[TeamFA]

What lurks within...

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=83605&d=1410417704

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=83606&d=1410417891

[The ho har's]

About time you pair :D It's been too long between posts :p

Since you were last at our place, we have acquired some more parts, a finger folder, a guillotine and H is looking at buying wheeling machine that will make the foot wells you need :)

Have you seen my "zara's" build thread, my dumbions were as bad as "Doris's" H repaired them.

Mrs hh:angel:

[Ozdunc]

I've used roverparts.com.au for a bit of stuff, esp if I need it in a hurry.

But sometimes the savings you can make buying the same parts from the UK is just too great to ignore.
Don't forget to factor in the postage though, that can double the price of what you're buying.

If you've got a pressure washer, consider buying a drain cleaner attachment. You might have to drill some extra drainage holes to get the head in, but its very useful for getting out a lifetime of dried mud, rats nests, rust flakes, etc.

Since you're at the chassis welding stage be brutal checking out the chassis, especially round the outriggers and where the exhaust crosses under the chassis. They rust from the inside out, looking great but being paper thin in places.
It can look pretty darn scary once you've realised how much welding is needed. Good luck.

[Homestar]

I've bought some firewall repair sections from Paddocks - floor bits and other bits - they fit well, but freight is expensive because of their size - not weight. If you get them from OS, make it part of a larger order so you get some value for money.:)

[marting]

Hi
I am currently doing something very similar to a '69 11a 88' at the moment. Also to become the wifes' daily driver. It is in the early stages of going back together!
If you have any questions or need to check anything out feel free to get in touch. We are on the northern side of Brissie as well.
If ordering from overseas be wary of the freight costs. IMHO I don't think you save a great deal once the freight costs are factored in. Also if you buy locally you can return the parts. I have used British Off Road, MR Automotive and Roverparts for parts throughout my rebuild and all have been great to deal with.
Good luck,
Cheers, Martin

[debruiser]

Sorry to say I only just stumbled upon your thread! I like both your trucks! I agree on removing the "bullbar" that thing was UGLY! :D

Hope your still enjoying your rebuild.

[TeamFA]

Yes, we've been slack!

The wheeling machine sounds interesting.. let us know when he's ready to start making them up!

I haven't read the "Zara" thread, shame on me. I must admit I have only really poked around in the Series 2 forum, I haven't been elsewhere. I shall be off in a moment to start reading.

We must get down soon to collect those hoops - we might be able to get there some time this weekend, if you're going to be about.


About time you pair :D It's been too long between posts :p

Since you were last at our place, we have acquired some more parts, a finger folder, a guillotine and H is looking at buying wheeling machine that will make the foot wells you need :)

Have you seen my "zara's" build thread, my dumbions were as bad as "Doris's" H repaired them.

Mrs hh:angel:

[TeamFA]

Thanks on the advice on the parts, guys. I know the freight can be a killer when coming from overseas, and the UK seems to sting particularly harshly.

I'll also have to remember if the cost of my parts exceeds the $1,000 mark there will be GST thrown in on top.

I'd definitely prefer to buy local, if possible (and affordable!).

[TeamFA]

G'day Martin!

Another northsider... and a Landy fan... such good taste!

I've just gone and searched for posts and pics of yours, got as far as here so far: http://www.aulro.com/afvb/series-ii-iia/149692-free-overdrive.html#post1718245

Have you got a recent pic, just as a teaser?

I have just been out in the garage, having my first ever play with a welder! Something that's been on my to-do list for a long time is learn how to weld, and now I have a perfect excuse! Just mucked about getting the welder working - it's a gasless flux-core feed thing, borrowed from a mate that's particularly averse to maintaining things, so I was surprised it worked. And I got about a minute's worth of play before it ran out of wire.

Looking forward to meeting you one day - the white TDi 110 in the pics is yours? I'll have to keep an eye out for it.

Cheers!
Michael.


Hi
I am currently doing something very similar to a '69 11a 88' at the moment. Also to become the wifes' daily driver. It is in the early stages of going back together!
If you have any questions or need to check anything out feel free to get in touch. We are on the northern side of Brissie as well.
If ordering from overseas be wary of the freight costs. IMHO I don't think you save a great deal once the freight costs are factored in. Also if you buy locally you can return the parts. I have used British Off Road, MR Automotive and Roverparts for parts throughout my rebuild and all have been great to deal with.
Good luck,
Cheers, Martin

[russellrovers]

G'day all!

A year has passed, and life has kept us too busy to do much (anything at all, really) to Doris.

We're now going to start dedicating time (and money) to her in ernest.

We've got the bodywork off, the photo below is from last weekend. We've since removed the under-door pieces (4 nice rusty nuts and bolts that took an hour to remove), and the front bumper monstrosity. The front chassis end has rusted previously, and a previous owner had welded and bolted a lot of metal to cover and reinforce everything.

Next is to start removing things from the engine bay.

We're going to be repairing the chassis at the front at the spring hangers - I've seen that you can buy these sections to weld in. We also have to do the rear bumper, as it has a "custom" one fitted to it.

The sides and the footwells of the firewall also need new bits welded in.

I've seen these bits for sale at Paddocks and the like - does anybody have any experience buying these bits in Australia?

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=83604&d=1410417050hi team i have the chassi parts you require jim

[The ho har's]

We must get down soon to collect those hoops - we might be able to get there some time this weekend, if you're going to be about.


We will be here all Saturday and Sunday afternoon. The Beaudesert Swap meet is on Sunday morning, usually landy parts there :) Then you can look at the 6x6 it's nearly finished and looking terrific :D

Mrs hh:angel:

[chazza]

I'll also have to remember if the cost of my parts exceeds the $1,000 mark there will be GST thrown in on top.



I bought something from overseas, which unfortunately cost more than $1000.

The import duty was quite reasonable - I think it was only about $75 - however, the nasty bit was about $200 to the stevedoring company for "handling costs" and of course GST of 10% slapped on top of that.

Yes; split the presents up if you can but make sure that they don't arrive too close together,

Cheers Charlie

[marting]

Hi Micheal

Yes that post was my last! I was embarressed at how slowly it was progressing so haven't bothered to post anything else!

As I said it is in the early stages of going back together, but as teaser, here is a photo of the rear diff. This is from a few weeks ago. The rear end is now completely together.

83663

Yes, the old Tdi is ours as well! I like the look of your truck. Looks tough!

Look forward to catching up one day!

Cheers, Martin

[chazza]

Yes that post was my last! I was embarressed at how slowly it was progressing so haven't bothered to post anything else!

83663

Cheers, Martin

Don't worry about how long it takes; it is the quality of the work that matters and whether you are enjoying it :D

Looking at your photo it seems that quality is excellent!

Cheers Charlie