Hub Oil Seals

[stuee]

Finally started on the hubs today since the weather has been good. After spending ages removing bolts and nuts that probably haven't shifted for a decade or two I finally got the hubs off. Flip them over to remove the hub seal so I can check the bearings and I find a metal collar that's pressed in place. No other 101 hub rebuilds I have seen online have made use of these. Anyone else still have this fitted or have they disappeared over time. It may have actually been part of the original oil seal and the modern ones no longer have the metal collar in them. Thoughts?

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/08/1495.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/08/1496.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/08/1497.jpg

[Homestar]

My guess is they are part of the original seals. Just flick them out and ditch them for the new ones.

[101 Ron]

Yes knock it out and fit new seals.
Look carefully at the axle metal ring where the seal runs.
Look for the mark the seal is left on it.
Look carefully at the new seals.
You want the sealing lip on the hub seal to run near centre, or to a non worn part of the metal ring pressed on the axle.
You have Two choices.
Knock the new seal flush with the top of the hub
or knock the new seal in as far as it will go til it stops against the inner wheel bearing.
The original leather seals where knocked in flush and some people tend to knock the newer design seals in all the way.
Look at the way the old seals have been running and look at the new seals you get.
Check the metal rings on the axle/backing plate if they are loose as if loose they can spin on the axle.
If loose, remove it clean the area where it fits with brake or carby cleaner and refit with mechanics silastic and let dry and wipe off the excess from all surfaces.
The hub oil seals are a bit touché on a 101.
One of the reasons for this the wheel bearings tend to settle in with use a lose the preload and let the hub and bearing move a little bit and causes the hub seal to leak.
I tend to go to the tight side if preloading or do a trip some where and pull the drive flanges off and check the bearing preload.
Pack the wheel bearings with grease, as it takes a while for the diff oil get though to the hub.
Remove the air breather banjo bolt on the axle tube, check it for blockage.
Before you refit it, drill out the very small holes in it to a larger size as rust and condensation will block it easily and cause the hub seals to leak.
Blow compressed air tough the diff breather nylon tube to make certain it is not blocked by mud or dead blow flies etc.

[101 Ron]

Now would be the perfect time to fit the Zeus disc brakes as you have it all apart????

[stuee]

Definitely installing the disc brake conversion at the same time. Quite satisfying separating the drum back plate from the spindle and discarding it. Will mean much less to run the wire brush wheel over and paint.

Overall very little wear on the components which pairs up with the 26k on the speedo. Bearings are in great shape and only a very light score where the seal runs on. The swivels where full of oil so the swivel seals are holding, the bearing seal was holding too but as you can see in the picture above it had gone brittle so I doubt it would last on the road very long.

I'll be going flush with the top of the hub for the seals. Now its all come apart once I'm confident in pulling apart and adjusting if need be. Its all really quite easy when you have the right tools (I had to cut an old sway bar down to use as a lever on my new hub nut spanner...).

[stuee]

This is the extent of the scoring on the spindle:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/08/1434.jpg

I'm happy with it although really have nothing to compare against. The muck below the seal line should clean up nicely and give a good surface for the seal to go on. If worse comes to worst I will replace the spacer that the seal runs on as I ordered a couple of spares in case.

I'll post up a pic of the final seal position when I'm done for future reference.