Replacing Brake discs on Defender and I am stuck.

[patclan]

I am in the middle of doing the front brake discs and pads on my 2009 defender, it has taking me 1.5 hours to get the caliper off and the drive flange and now I am stuck. I bought a 52mm impact socket but it is not deep enough by about 5mm, I also have a big plumbers wrench but it wont get in to the hub to get a grip.

I see today as a write off but I don't want to put it all back together so does anyone know where on the Gold Coast or surrounding areas I will find a 52mm deep hub socket or box spanner tomorrow?

I am leaving for Cooktown on Friday so I need to get it back together and can't wait for anything to come from Ebay.

Alternatively, how viable is it just replacing the pads and leaving the discs on, they have about a 2mm ridge on them, they look like they have plenty of meat on them, and the pads have a coating to resurface the disc.

Also when I took the flange off there is a fair bit of metal grit in there. Is this normal? Also should I use anything in particular to clean this off before I re-grease it?

thanks
Pat
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[weeds]

You can use a hammer and chisel to get the hub nuts off, I think I read you are changing over the the double nut set up..can you get a pair of multigrips in there......

I'm sure there would be plenty of members with a hub nut spammer on the coast.....I assume you could buy one from Ricks should only be $10/$15, handy to have in the car

[weeds]

Drive up to my place and I can give you a hand.....

You could probably get away with just changing the pads.....if you get the hub off I would wash the old grease out and have a good look at the bearings.....

[patclan]

You can use a hammer and chisel to get the hub nuts off, I think I read you are changing over the the double nut set up..can you get a pair of multigrips in there......

I'm sure there would be plenty of members with a hub nut spammer on the coast.....I assume you could buy one from Ricks should only be $10/$15, handy to have in the car

Hey weeds.
I was going to change to the double nut, but I would not have got the kit in time so I figured I would just put the single back on, this is what happens when you rush things!! I will give Ricks a call in the morning to see if he has one, that's a good idea never thought of him supplying tools. I was hoping to get the socket on then I can get the torque right. Alternatively I might see if he can fit it in this week, but then I have to put it together.

A new lesson there for me, never start jobs on a Sunday unless you are 100% you have the tools.

[sheerluck]

Pat,

If you just want to borrow a 52mm box spanner, I've got one. I'm not too far from the GC.

[patclan]

Pat,

If you just want to borrow a 52mm box spanner, I've got one. I'm not too far from the GC.

Thanks Dave, I might be in touch in the next couple of days, the wife has noticed I am not at the car working and has now decided I can continue tomorrow and take the pram and the dog for a walk with her instead. Should have taken my laptop out to the car..

I will take the parts list down to LR tomorrow as well and see if I can get the nuts to change to the double nuts, then I can use a box spanner and not worry about the torque.

Thanks for the offer, appreciate it.

Pat.

[rick130]

Those splines are fretting/dry corroding, so use plenty of grease on them at reassembly if you aren't converting to oil lubed hubs, and pop the drive flanges off every 20-30,000km and re-grease.

Use an RTC3511 hub seal instead of whatever Land Rover use now too, it eliminates drawing in moisture, particularly during creek/river crossings, but even just drawing in moisture generally.

I think I'm the only person in existence that still uses the genuine paper drive flange gaskets but they're cheap as chips and make things simple and clean on servicing.

[sheerluck]

...........I think I'm the only person in existence that still uses the genuine paper drive flange gaskets but they're cheap as chips and make things simple and clean on servicing.

No, there's two of us :D

[patclan]

Those splines are fretting/dry corroding, so use plenty of grease on them at reassembly if you aren't converting to oil lubed hubs, and pop the drive flanges off every 20-30,000km and re-grease.

Use an RTC3511 hub seal instead of whatever Land Rover use now too, it eliminates drawing in moisture, particularly during creek/river crossings, but even just drawing in moisture generally.

I think I'm the only person in existence that still uses the genuine paper drive flange gaskets but they're cheap as chips and make things simple and clean on servicing.

Thanks Rick, I will add the seals to my list for tomorrow. I actually picked up 2 of the paper gaskets yesterday from LR, your right, they are cheap about $2.70 each I think.

For the grease on the splines, is the bearing grease OK for that or is there any particular flavor I need?

cheers
Pat.

[rick130]

Bearing grease is fine.

In an ideal world an extreme EP/moly/lubricating solids fortified grease would be ideal but no one including moi does that, and I have some pretty trick greases on tap :D (but I do run oil lubed hubs in the rear too. Oil lubrication dramatically reduces bearing adjustments when running on rough roads too)

[patclan]

OK I picked up a 52mm deep impact socket from bolts and bits or what ever it is called.

I managed to get the hub nut off and removed the hub and disc, but I have a question. I have oil leaking out the back of my Swivel/CV bit, is this to be expected? I forgot to tighten up the bolts that hold on the brake pipe bracket so I am wondering if this is the cause, it started leaking as soon as the impact wrench went to work so I think I have loosened a seal in there somewhere, I hope that just putting it back together will stop it.

Any suggestions? And what oil should I replace back in there?

Biting of more than I can chew has come to mind a few times, but I am chewing hard and fast!! Run out of YouTube videos to watch :eek:

Cheers
Pat

[weeds]

from memory the brake line brackes sit under the swivel pins bolts.....soo yes if these were left loose than it might leak oil

i avoid using rattle guns to remove bolts as you have reduced feel is something is not quite right.....i never use one for assembly

[460cixy]

No, there's two of us :D

Make that 3 but I cut my own just do a heap at a it e so I don't have to make more for ages

[jboot51]

with the brake line retainer clip undone the top swivel bearing becomes loose and the oil gets past the seal. Tighten up and it will stop.

80/90wt gear oil will suit the swivel hub.

[patclan]

Well, I have one side completed and the other nearly, just need to torque up the drive flange and put some new split pins in for the pads.

But thank you to you all for your help and advice and offers of assistance.

I don't think I would have attempted doing this if I did not have a Land Rover and such great support on the Forum.

While I was working on it I noticed the bottom bolts on my cross member under the gearbox are sticking out about an inch on both sides, the LR dealer on the gold coast changed the clutch and fixed an oil leak on the transfer case last month so I suspect they put them in and forgot to do them up. I could tighten them up myself but I think I would rather take it down to them to see where they went wrong, it makes you wonder what else is wrong.

I am glad I did the discs myself now, at least I know everything is tight to the correct torque, I was lucky with the Hub Nut, it needs to go to 210nm and my torque bar went to 215, the first stroke of luck the whole time.

Weeds I took your advice, I assembled everything by hand, I still had to use the rattle gun to get the hub nut off though, could not budge it otherwise, but on the second side I had no oil leak as I put the swivel pin bolts back in before taking off the hub nut.

I topped up the oil in there to but not sure if there is anyway to check the level, I put around 300ml in, as I estimate that is what I lost.

I should have it finished tomorrow morning now and be able to take it for a drive, as I live on a mountain I don't want to test the brakes going down, I will have to go further up and hope they are OK for the run back down to my house :D.

Quick question, can you have too much grease in the bearings? with both wheels I have used about half a tub, the tub size I think is 500ml or could have been 500grams, not sure. I have put plenty under the flange as rick suggested so should be good for 20k.

So thanks again, I reckon I am in the beer debt now..

Cheers
Pat

[patclan]

JOB DONE!! Woohoo, I even have oily stained hands I can't clean, this mechanical stuff is fun when your finished.

Breaks are binding slightly but guessing they need to wear in.

Thanks again for all your help guys.

p.s. if anyone needs to borrow a deep 52mm socket on the Gold Coast then I have you covered!!

Pat.