A snorkel - kind a! Work in progress

[davidsonsm]

Did the internal ductwork over the weekend. Modified the air box using plastic welding to seal up the original hole. I then added a flanged PVC spigot using mechanical plus JB Weld. The ductwork is all 90mm. Probably could of got away with 75mm. The 90mm is tight.

Next project is the external snorkel. At least I'm to the wing with the air inlet now. It's been elevated a good 300mm from original.

[clubagreenie]

Looks good. One good point about having the tube drop lower then the air box is that any fluid will collect here. The bad point about this is there are drains in the air box (or usually are) to drain thins away. Accumulated water may slosh into the air box en mass giving issues. Just a thought.

[TheTree]

Hi

Looking good mate, pity I don't have any room under my bonnet down that side :angry:

Steve

[stickso]

Looks tight in there. Watching your progress with interest.

[davidsonsm]

The flexibles off the a.c. pump were the main obstruction. Worked around them. Didn't fancy re-routing those.

Yeah - been thinking of how to incorporate a drain. Blanked off the original one. Gonna put a new one with a manual valve in the air box - for checking water build up.

Will have to include a straight hose connector with threaded boss at low point of flexible hose.

Would love to use a non-return valve on end of clear hose for strain outlet. Can I trust a non-return valve?

[davidsonsm]

Will paint it all black. Prep work involved moving the charcoal canister, eas dryer, and removed cruise control. Also had to re-route the eas bypass nylon hoses. Plus the cabling to the eas box. Also had to move the air box 5mm plus towards the wing.

Now for the hard part. Plastic welding two snorkel together. Maybe involving some fibreglass work too.

[clubagreenie]

I'd trust one. You're not dealing with pressures or flows. It's actually a pretty static thing. A manual valve would be fine as long as you had a planned schedule for doing it.

[FANTOM P38]

Hey Shaun looking good mate.
DAVE & I were looking at similar setup only yesterday and we feel it can be done with 75mm meaning virtually no rerouting or moving of anything under bonnet even cruise could stay and exiting from same location on gaurd. My thoughts on water trap was to wire in a windscreen washer pump connected to lowest point in airbox. This could be switched on prior to water crossing, acting like bilge pump, you could even terminate it with an outlet in front of windscreen on drivers side to monitor if anything is pumped out!
That only leaves fabrication of snorkel along a pillar and small bend into gaurd!
Any comments appreciated.

[PaulP38a]

Heat shields mate! It gets pretty warm just above the exhaust manifold on the LH side near where your ducting runs.
Love your work and understand it is a prototype. Once you've got the paths sussed out, I'd be seriously considering replacing the plastic duct with stainless steel pipe and rubber truck bends.

[davidsonsm]

Guys. Really appreciate the comments. Five heads are better than one.

I've used 2 ply silicone hose. Thought that would be heat resistant enough. It it's a concern though. Not an ideal routing. But worried that a heat shield would only deflect the heat to another area of the engine bay.

And PVC has good heat resistance properties. Do not too worried about that at present. It gets a good draught from the fan.

There are always improvements with any DIY job. Got to bath test it yet. The pvc spigot inside the box needed to be 2mm or 3mm lower as it fouls the air filter slightly. Doh. Another reason to use 75mm duct. Otherwise once painted - I'll be chuffed.

The bilge pump idea has me thinking. Will probably just go with a manual drain valve for now and check it regularly - at least till I know how it behaves. The problem is getting a fitting that sits flush with the floor of the air box, plus having room for the outlet below the air box. Might need to go straight down through the existing hole in the wing.

[davidsonsm]

Scrub the comment about interference between the air filter and the internal spigot of the PVC flanged pipe - I'll just cut away the internal PVC protrusion - not needed. I'd retained it, because I'd included a mossie net fitting - not needed really - or could be installed elsewhere.

Feeling better about myself now!! Just the valve block bringing me down now.

[davidsonsm]

Some more pictures - Paul you made.me look again at the exhaust manifold and the flexible hose for the snorkel. It's really not that close. Plenty of other plastic and electrical fittings in the same vicinity.

[FANTOM P38]

75mm is plenty! Just take a good look at the entry point from LH Gaurd or the inside dia of MAF so im sure 75mm has enough volume to handle required airflow.

[benji]

Would anyone know how much air the 4.6 uses on full song? 400 litrs per minute springs to mind but not sure why...

[mtb_gary]

Would anyone know how much air the 4.6 uses on full song? 400 litrs per minute springs to mind but not sure why...

OK, just a guess from a non engineering perspective. 4.6 litres is the capacity to be drawn per revolution, multiply the 4.6 litres by the RPM to come up with the answer? If the theory is correct, @ 6,000 rpm that's 27,600 litres per minute!

Gary

[Pete38]

OK, just a guess from a non engineering perspective. 4.6 litres is the capacity to be drawn per revolution, multiply the 4.6 litres by the RPM to come up with the answer? If the theory is correct, @ 6,000 rpm that's 27,600 litres per minute!

Gary

Then divide by 4 because the inlet valves are only open every 4 revolutions due to being a four stroke. Well this would be maximum flow theoretically possible (friction would slow it down I'm sure) without a turbo or supercharger. Me thinks, not knows from experience.

[benji]

Yeh, just a tad out with 400 then.
I think you'd divide the number by two. Its 4 strokes but 2 revolutions.

Your theory makes sense in my back yarders brain, though it could even be a bit higher due to inlet manifold pulses.

[davidsonsm]

Which would be 6.9 cu.m. per minute, or 0.115 cu.m. per second. With cross sectional area of 3.14 x 0.05 x 0.05 = 0.00785 it means the velocity of the air flow would be 14.65m/s. Or 52.2 km/h if I've got my maths right. Seems reasonable. Obviously a smaller dia makes the flows higher - assuming no friction losses.

[Pete38]

Which would be 6.9 cu.m. per minute, or 0.115 cu.m. per second. With cross sectional area of 3.14 x 0.05 x 0.05 = 0.00785 it means the velocity of the air flow would be 14.65m/s. Or 52.2 km/h if I've got my maths right. Seems reasonable. Obviously a smaller dia makes the flows higher - assuming no friction losses.

Well we got there eventually ha ha. Team work lol.

[clubagreenie]

Put it this way, a 4.0 1UZ toyo will breathe to 11,000rpm through 48mm ITB's with only 70mm. Other thing's like plenum volume, laminar flow and pulse reversion need to be considered in volume calculations.

Another example, a 4.7 UZ through 53mm ITB's with a well designed plenum at 15,000 required 2 x 100mm inlets (one per bank) but it didn't really work until the plenum was designed with a bridge so that reversions could be smoothed out. Then look out.

[benji]

So true, there are jst so many aspects to inlet manifold tuning. Sounds like the 4.7uz had a fair wack of overlap on the cam if it needed a bridge port between the two banks!
But, in my case anyway (with single port lpg) the tuning of the snorkel will have very little effect on what happens on the other side of the throttle plate.

[clubagreenie]

You're really talking about chasing differences that you only see in CFD rather than something that is tangibly noticeable. As for overlap, with over 5mm added to the nose height alone before changing the profile you cold say there was some overlap to make it breathe at the required RPM's.

[davidsonsm]

Cut the hole in the inner wing yesterday. I definitely think land rover didn't want their p38 to have a snorkel. Their designs conspire against it. Before and after shots.

[davidsonsm]

Made myself a hot tub time machine today to help me make the snorkel.

Not really. I made a hot wire cutter using nichrome wire and a battery charger as the power source. This is going to cut the extruded polystyrene that I've acquired to make a positive mould for the fibreglass that I will use to join the two halves of the LDPE patrol gu snorkel that I'm bastardising.

I've fitted the upper section to the A pillar. I'm close to having the bottom section attached to the wing. Then for the playing about with polystyrene for the middle section that will skillfully curve around the bonnet. Should be fun. Bringing out my artistic side! The things ya get up to with a P38 hey. Life would be dull without Nora.

I'll post some pictures to show what I'm on about in due course.

[davidsonsm]

Next stage complete. Now for the creative part. Unless you think it'll do like that!

[Robsrod 58]

Mmmm,

How's this, block each of the upper and lower holes approx 50mm in, tie a plastic bag around the two ends encompassing vacant area you trying to fill. Open the bonnet to attain the shape of the inner curve and fill the bag with expanding foam, allow to set and carve away the excess.
Smooth the finished negative ( adding appropriate marketing name of course), then cast a positive off this. Once you have got this far you can start casting money in fibreglass snorkels:p:p

Good luck!

Rob

[FANTOM P38]

Next stage complete. Now for the creative part. Unless you think it'll do like that!

Looking great mate! Hope you keep the mould! Could be in the market very soon. Just picked up some more bits for my underbonnet routing today! Must say i like where you're heading on outer side though[thumbsupbig]:

[Keithy P38]

Looking great there! Can't wait to see the finished product!

One thing to keep in mind is the bonnet opening angle, this will effect the shape of the snorkel in that area.

[davidsonsm]

The carved extruded polystyrene positive mould will have to be smashed/melted. As it will be encapsulated within the fibre glass. But assuming the thing turns out half decent, I'd be willing to submit the finished snorkel to a plastic moulding place in Melbourne for them to copy. And then it'd be a matter of how many would be needed to make them economical. I'm sure they could refine the design. Let's see how it turns out and whether it looks like polished turd, or like safari made it..

[Pete38]

If you could design the connection pipe work to be removable or slide over and up the top section of pipe then the mould could hug the bonnet and look great. Then remove that section when you need to open the bonnet.

Not sure how good the sealing would be and if it's worth the hassle but just putting it out there.

Like as if a P38 bonnet needs to be opened very often lol.

[davidsonsm]

Peter, reckon it'll be complicated enough for my diy skills. Gonna try to follow the profile of the bonnet as close as it'll allow. Will have to under size the fibre glass slightly to allow some car body filler to smooth out the profile/look/screw ups.

[davidsonsm]

It's bloody hard carving 3D shapes. At least I'm only creating polystyrene shavings at present. By the bucket load. No harm done yet, but I may need more xps. I know why I'm not a sculpturer.

[clubagreenie]

Floral foan (the green stuff) is a great medium for making mould plugs.

[davidsonsm]

Thought about that stuff. Will try it if the extruded polystyrene doesn't work out. The xps is easy enough to cut, sand and shape. It's just a complex shape. And because I have a fixed gap between the upper and lower sections it's very difficult make it from one piece. Because I want to have some stub pieces inside the polyethylene. Hence I'm making two sections to join in the middle.

My next problem will be fibreglassing off the car (on the bench) so it all lines up again when back on the car. May have to do some interim fibre glassing on the car for finishing off the car.

Thought about trying to get hold of a 3D clamp to hold the two sections in the installed orientation when they are removed. Heard body shops have suction cup type clamps. Can anybody offer another suggestion?

[stickso]

How about some kind of external jig to secure the 2 parts in relation to each other? Considering the current pieces are sacrificial you could screw them to an external frame and then once you've finished fibreglassing remove the frame and patch the holes ready to have a mould created.

[davidsonsm]

No the current pieces weren't intended to be sacraficial. They are to be joined by fibreglassing a middle section and will form part of the finished article. I'm trying to short cut the job of making the whole thing out of fibreglass.

But even so, it'd be easy enough to join the two separate sections of polyethylene with a wooden C shaped length - screwed through the top and bottom section when removing from the vehicle for the actual fibreglassing. And then eventually plastic weld the holes created. The finished job will all be filled where needed, sanded and painted. I've become quite proficient at plastic welding/shapping/moulding - well at least in my little P38 world.

I just need to practice my mould shaping/carving skills for the fibreglassing. I'll get there - just need some practice.

[DT-P38]

You MUST do 2 mate. Don't waste all that work on just one. Pretty sure Fantom's brother has ability to do batches of fibreglass stuff.;)

[TheTree]

Hi

Great progress mate, a real pity that approach only works for the GEMS models :angry:

I think i am going to have to go the outside route, not sure if i will hack and existing snorkel or go the way Keithy and RedAndy did with the stainless tubing

Steve

[davidsonsm]

Another good thing about the gems hey! Gotta look for the positives.

Have decided I will need to breach/attach the two halves in order to fibreglass. Will knock up a welded steel bracket affair to achieve. Will show with pictures rather than a 1,000 words. This weekend hopefully, although err indoors has me decorating our sons bedroom.

[davidsonsm]

Managed a but more foam sculpting today. But more to do yet so it looks like it flows. Looks a bit fat (not in a good sick way) at.present. also made the steel frame that ties the two halves together - hopefully keeping them"set". Once the sculpting is finished, I'll have to remove the lot and apply the fibreglass. And then I was thinking to finish it, marine-tex (any one used it before), plus a lick of paint.

[highrr]

Looks good mate

[Keithy P38]

Ill second that! Coming along nicely!

[davidsonsm]

Cheers guys. Surely, there should have been a commercial version available by now. Heaps of work, but wouldn't do it if I didn't enjoy pottering around tinkering and so on. Just hope it's waterproof. Hoping to get to the fibreglassing stage next week.

[finallyrangie]

That's looking really good mate, thanks for keeping us updated, you have inspired me to need a snorkel!

[glenhendry]

75mm is plenty! Just take a good look at the entry point from LH Gaurd or the inside dia of MAF so im sure 75mm has enough volume to handle required airflow.

Some additional info on this point, last week I ripped the single point LPG fumigator/thing from between the upper inlet manifold and air intake tube. When it was in place it created a large reduction in throughput for air, down from the original 90mm to I'd guess 65-70mm. I was hoping removing it would improve things in terms of power or torque or something, but it made no difference at all. Not even top end. I dont think using 75mm snorkel piping would cause you trouble.

[davidsonsm]

Ready to start fibreglassing. I've covered the sculptured polystyrene mould with water based paint, then masking tape, then car wax and finally lanolin. Got to get the bugger out.

Reckon my fibreglassing will be fine - after lots of sanding! The epoxy resin can be built up to an inch thick - so should provide room for tinkering.

[davidsonsm]

Well it's been a long drawn out job. Plenty of hours. Once I was happy with the mould, I did some fibre glassing off the car using the jig I'd made. But of course the jig wasn't rigid enough and when offering the snorkel back up to the car, it didn't line up the way I had intended.

Therefore I had to make two partial cuts top and bottom of the filler piece and then fix it back to the car and apply more fibre glassing to the joints I'd cut. Bingo. Happy bunny. But of course that was only the start of getting it to look right and be strong enough.

So I've been applying more layers. Sanding. Some more sanding. And then a little more sanding. Then some body filler. And back to sanding.

I had some fun getting the extruded polystyrene out. I used a combination of smashing (bbq rotisserie spit), drilling using flexible cable, rotary wire brushing plus a few other tries with compressed air and a pressure washer. Oh and some petrol to dissolve the leftovers. But that was messy and sticky.

So here's where is at. Ready for high build primer (then sanding of course) and the top coat. Hopefully so I can install it soon. All the prep for the actual installation is done. It's just a matter of finishing the snorkel now.

I'll obviously post some pictures of the finished article.

I'd like to apply a sticker or badge to the side other snorkel. Any suggestions?

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/10/656.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/10/657.jpg

[mtb_gary]

Well done, I'll look forward to seeing the end result installed.

Gary

[Keithy P38]

That's looking really good mate! Can't wait to see the finished product!

[intheozone]

Well done!! Looking really good. I look forward to the finished product pics

[TheTree]

Great job, lots of work but worth the outcome.

BTW do you ever sleep :p

Steve

[davidsonsm]

[QUOTE=SteveFarmer;2009406]Great job, lots of work but worth the outcome.

BTW do you ever sleep :p

Steve[I have to confess to burning the midnight oil at times, when the misses has gone to bed. She might be heard to say "you're bloody obsessed with that car". Rarely in a playful voice. She calls it my mistress. All kinds of sad and wonderful. Never imagined my life would develop this way - in to a P38 obsession - do we need a P38's anonymous society? Too late for that I guess - what with the forum./QUOTE]

[redandy3575]

Well it's been a long drawn out job. Plenty of hours. Once I was happy with the mould, I did some fibre glassing off the car using the jig I'd made. But of course the jig wasn't rigid enough and when offering the snorkel back up to the car, it didn't line up the way I had intended.

Therefore I had to make two partial cuts top and bottom of the filler piece and then fix it back to the car and apply more fibre glassing to the joints I'd cut. Bingo. Happy bunny. But of course that was only the start of getting it to look right and be strong enough.

So I've been applying more layers. Sanding. Some more sanding. And then a little more sanding. Then some body filler. And back to sanding.

I had some fun getting the extruded polystyrene out. I used a combination of smashing (bbq rotisserie spit), drilling using flexible cable, rotary wire brushing plus a few other tries with compressed air and a pressure washer. Oh and some petrol to dissolve the leftovers. But that was messy and sticky.

So here's where is at. Ready for high build primer (then sanding of course) and the top coat. Hopefully so I can install it soon. All the prep for the actual installation is done. It's just a matter of finishing the snorkel now.

I'll obviously post some pictures of the finished article.

I'd like to apply a sticker or badge to the side other snorkel. Any suggestions?

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/10/656.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/10/657.jpg

Looks fantastic. Bit like a Disco 3 snorkel.

Not to put a dampener on the subject, but how strong is it? I. e when you brush up against bushes or a tree, let alone a bird strike.

[mtb_gary]

[QUOTE=SteveFarmer;2009406]Great job, lots of work but worth the outcome.

BTW do you ever sleep :p

Steve[I have to confess to burning the midnight oil at times, when the misses has gone to bed. She might be heard to say "you're bloody obsessed with that car". Rarely in a playful voice. She calls it my mistress. All kinds of sad and wonderful. Never imagined my life would develop this way - in to a P38 obsession - do we need a P38's anonymous society? Too late for that I guess - what with the forum./QUOTE]

I think most of on here can relate to the p38 obsession.....it becomes addictive :twisted: in a strange sort of way. I seem to recall the same conversations with my wife re the obsession. Maybe the p38a the "a" should stand for anonymous?

Gary

[davidsonsm]

[QUOTE=redandy3575;2009448]Looks fantastic. Bit like a Disco 3 snorkel.

Not to put a dampener on the subject, but how strong is it? I. e when you brush up against bushes or a tree, let alone a bird strike.[/

Bloody tough I reckon. It was a major consideration. There is very little body filler actually on the snorkel - it was used exclusively for smoothing.

I reckon the section I've added to join to the two LDPE sections is actually stronger than the LDPE that the original Patrol GU snorkel was made from.

I've used 3 layers of fibreglass that each overlay on themselves. I've used nearly the whole tub of the 1.5litre size of this stuff (the Solid Bond 300 Epoxy Gel Glue):

https://secure.solidsolutions.com.au/view_products.php?cat=5

Bloody good stuff, chosen as it is compatible with the extruded polystyrene mould I used.

If I was starting over (which I'm never going to do now), I might change the following:

- I'm not sure moving the original snorkel outlet was necessary.
- The hole in the wing is bigger than it needs to be - but the snorkel covers it.
- I'd probably stick with 75mm internal ductwork, instead of the 90mm I've used.

Otherwise - profile wise, I reckon it gets as close to the bodywork (I hope it does - will try one final time prior to painting) as you can get using this solution/routing. I'll show some pictures with the bonnet lifted as well - once fitted.


QUOTE]

[davidsonsm]

So do you reckon the air inlet to the EAS compressor also needs a its own "mini" snorkel? :angel:

If the air inlet filter to the compressor was sited outside the EAS box (as you can with an uprated pump to allow more room in the box), it would be wise to seal it inside an engine snorkel (which we all have don't we? ;) ).

Maybe its safer where it is, inside the black plastic box - that has drain holes and holes for the tubing, but is considerably higher than the original engine air intake.

Maybe taking things too far. Interested to hear if anybody's EAS has ever injected water? I'm sure the compressor wouldn't like it.

[clubagreenie]

FWIW I've got my compressor mounted under the bonnet (D2 for tyres and winch clutch release) and have run both the compressor intake and clutch solenoid valve dump lines into the cabin just to keep things dry and clean. The extensions on the breathers (diffs, gearbox and transfer) run to a manifold and then a single line extends into the snorkel and up, then folds over up inside the head.

[mtb_gary]

So do you reckon the air inlet to the EAS compressor also needs a its own "mini" snorkel? :angel:

If the air inlet filter to the compressor was sited outside the EAS box (as you can with an uprated pump to allow more room in the box), it would be wise to seal it inside an engine snorkel (which we all have don't we? ;) ).

Maybe its safer where it is, inside the black plastic box - that has drain holes and holes for the tubing, but is considerably higher than the original engine air intake.

Maybe taking things too far. Interested to hear if anybody's EAS has ever injected water? I'm sure the compressor wouldn't like it.

If you plan on wading for an extended period just pull the EAS relay out from under the passenger seat or switch the EAS of as many of us now have switches mounted in/on dash and under seats ;)

Gary

[davidsonsm]

Had some mixed results painting the snorkel in the chosen satin black colour.

I used high build primer, then Hammerite smooth - which actually leaves a textered finish with the glass shards/beads that is in the paint formula.

Wasn't happy with the result. My compressor isn't up to the job of feeding a HVLP spray gun. The finish was blotchy. So I flatted the Hammerite, and applied some engine enamel out of an aerosol. Still not happy - cheap aerosol cans are false economy.

So I flatted that back as well. There's now plenty of paint on the darn thing.

Ended up using PlastiKote, which I'm a lot happier with. Didn't want a glass finish - wanted some texture, which I have. But it looks one piece, which was the key element.

Will get it fitted this weekend hopefully. Time and family allowing.

[FANTOM P38]

Look forward to seeing the end result but i'm betting it will look great!:)

[clubagreenie]

Just to follow up from my last post, here's a pic in progress.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/11/1626.jpg The blue bar with all the lines is the manifold for the breathers. Compressor is as far away from heat as possible, plus shielded by can and plate. Short blue hose is the inlet for the compressor, will extend into cabin when parts arrive and draw from the filter that was originally plugged into the port the hose is in now, as will the vent for the air solenoid for the winch clutch.

Had to move the alarm horn, now sits under the base plate. No non standard holes drilled so it can all go back to original.

[davidsonsm]

It all looks very neat and professional. Well done mate. My snorkel duct is routed through that area so I'll need to see what room I have left in the back left corner of the engine bay.

Was thinking I might route the compressor intake into the clean side of the engine filter box. Would be easy enough to seal the penetration and you'd only need a pipe and not an inlet filter for the compressor. Just trying to create more room in the eas box for a larger compressor.

[clubagreenie]

Thanks. I'm only using the filter as it was fitted to the compressor inlet anyway and it dampens the pssst sound of the solenoid dumping pressure when the clutch is engaged. Just realised I also need to stuff two relays in, for solenoid & compressor plus wiring to turn on both compressor and clutch from inside and outside vehicle. And fit an outlet for the tyre hose and tap in the sill protectors that double as air tanks.

Battery box rebuild next to fit 2 yellow tops in original space and keep original jack plus head & driving light relays and winch solenoid in there and keep it waterproof.

Take some pics of your space, if you need a new box made up send over some drawings and I can knock one up.

[davidsonsm]

Well I reckon I can finally change the title of this post. The snorkel is close to complete. Ended up using 76mm flexible duct instead of the 90mm I had. Made it a bit easier to route through the engine bay.

I'll have to get a black house clamp. But otherwise I'm rather pleased I've finished. A lot of work. Don't recommend anybody tries to repeat this approach. Seemed like a good idea when I started. The missus is very happy with it (that it's finished).
Just need a water course to traverse! Perhaps I'll test its integrity first. You put a plastic bag over its head to see if the engine stops - don't you?

[Keithy P38]

Looks amazing mate! Great work!

[Hoges]

great job... and ...nice wheels!

[intheozone]

Looks great. Good looking P38. I commend you for your efforts and hard work

[clubagreenie]

Looks a million dollars. Do you get any wind noise through the gap between the snorkel and side of the bonnet?

[davidsonsm]

Looks a million dollars. Do you get any wind noise through the gap between the snorkel and side of the bonnet?

No wind noise of note so far. But I've gotta try it at highway speed. Other than the actual snorkel head, you can't really see it from the drivers seat.

Feel like I need a water crossing.

[p38brickus]

You put a plastic bag over its head to see if the engine stops - don't you?

Isn't that what you do with grandkids? NAH! Sorry....:wasntme:

Seriously, a professional looking job, well done. :)

[clubagreenie]

Just stop feeding them and you'll get fuel starvation.

[TheTree]

Great job on the snorkel, very well done!

Steve

[mtb_gary]

Well I reckon I can finally change the title of this post. The snorkel is close to complete. Ended up using 76mm flexible duct instead of the 90mm I had. Made it a bit easier to route through the engine bay.

I'll have to get a black house clamp. But otherwise I'm rather pleased I've finished. A lot of work. Don't recommend anybody tries to repeat this approach. Seemed like a good idea when I started. The missus is very happy with it (that it's finished).
Just need a water course to traverse! Perhaps I'll test its integrity first. You put a plastic bag over its head to see if the engine stops - don't you?

Great job - well done!

Gary

[davidsonsm]

I'm a bit proud of it. Had to post some money shots.

[highrr]

Looks good mate well done

[finallyrangie]

Well done mate, lots of work but looks good.

[FANTOM P38]

Well worth the effort mate looks the goods! well done, Jealous as hell.
Dont suppose you've kept the mould?

[davidsonsm]

Afraid the mould had to be destroyed as it was internal. There was no other way of getting it out.

How's that coffee table coming along martin?

[FANTOM P38]

Glass getting cut just need some legs ( have any rods/pistons left over by any chance?)

[davidsonsm]

Martin. I'm sure I'll have some pistons. I'll let you know what's left over once the swap is complete.