Baught a p38 3 days ago.... and its stuffed already.

[cal415]

Well on the weekend i picked up my new P38, 96 HSE with lots of extra, at the time seemed like a good deal but i am already regretting it.

Driving it initially it all seemed good but being that we had driven from Newcastle to Nowra and still had to get back to Sydney to pick up another car before heading back to Newcastle the sale was done in a hurry and i was on my way.

Not long later i noticed it had a bit of a clunk turning sharply, ive had similar noises from other vehicles when the radius arm bolts needed tightening so i didnt think much of it..... anyway fast forward a few days, the car has driven home to newcastle and done probobly 100km locally over town and out to work today - no offroading yet, well today while pulling out of a servo it made the clunking sound again only worse so it got me a bit worried for the CV's.

Now i got it home and into the shed, this is the first chance i have even had to get under the truck for a look, anyway i got the front end jack up, locked the front diff(ARB locker upfront) and spun the front PS wheel only to hear it clunking away, looking into the knuckle i can see the CV boot and the axle spinning so i guess its got a broken axle..... suffice to say i am mighty ****ed off right now and have no doubt this was an existing issue when i picked the car up, which was off a fellow forum member.

Anyway i need some help, how hard is it to pull an axle out of this POS? how readily available are parts? i am pretty desperate to get this going, my defender is out of action for a few days with the clutch being replaced and we settle on a new property tomorrow in a location that requires a 4wd to access.....

Needless to say my adventure in to the P38 world is something i am definitely regretting right now, it seems since picking this up sunday my streak of bad luck is never ending.

[PeterH]

Yep, I'd be pretty p**'d off too if that happened to me.
Sorry to hear about your problems, clunks are usually caused by worn bushes underneath, I had a shocker bush worn causing bad clunks while driving.
I've had mine for 3 years now, there have been a few things to fix, but I wouldn't swap it for anything else, I love it!
This might be of some help for you:
Land Rover Workshop Manuals-Range Rover P38-FRONT AXLE (http://landrover.workshop-manuals.com/p38/index.php?id=841)
(Click at the bottom for the next page)
The axles are not that hard to remove if that is your problem, you might be able to pick up a second hand one somewhere to save some $$$.

[wayneg]

Getting the driveshaft out is not that hard, I presume you will need to take both sides out and the diff to remove the broken part.
The big nut on the CVJ is super tight so I would recommend having a rattle gun ready or do as I did and take the car to a truck tyre shop to get them to losen the nut(s) before you start.
Make sure the oil seals on the axlel casing are good and grease them well on reassembly

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/p38a-range-rover/122386-renew-cv-joint.html

[cal415]

Already most of the way there on remove the short side axle which i suspect is broken, before i damage it, what is the trick to removing the ABS sensor?

[cal415]

Does anyone have suggestions on where i can get spares in a hurry? i need to drive this tomorrow....

[101RRS]

You are in Newcastle so the obvious is All Four x 4 over in Kotara. I have have been doing business with them since 1978 when they were over in Broadmeadow.

Never take the first price quoted as they tend to be a bit high so a little bit of wheelin and dealin may be required - also check the bit when you get it that it is the right one but in my view the are an honest business and try to help when they are able.

Garry

[cal415]

Yes, if i go to all 4x4 i will make sure i take a sharp knife to cut of my left nut as payment for their parts, i will take my first born with me as well just in case its a little more expensive.......

I have it all apart now, seems the CV has failed and taken the axle with it..... not happy.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v463/qserv/49B522E5-5776-4CA1-8079-CB30EFD4E10E-10666-0000082F4DB37CCA_zps8021dee9.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v463/qserv/39A5220E-BA91-4274-9273-CFCDFCCB946E-10666-0000082F5483C9FD_zpscb78e6f4.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v463/qserv/DFFC86C8-0498-402A-AA90-2C60F036CBF8-10666-0000082F5B6EC980_zps962d08cc.jpg

[wayneg]

I had the luxury of ordering my CVJ before I did the job. Could not find a cheap source in Oz so got one sent from the UK. I did try the firm on e-bay Suzuki-something who I have got CVJ`s from real cheap before but they did not have P38 ones listed.

I would be trying for a wreckers

These are the contact details of the Suzukispares mob, they could be local to you? The were up for doing a match up when I was trying,
2 Alexander St, Auburn,NSW, PH( 02) 9743 7788, Australia

Just found their Business Name is C.V. Joints (Aust) Pty Ltd so could be a good source. If they do have them maybe you can let us know with the price

[redandy3575]

Wow.....not good. I reckon the fact that you've got lockers up front is where the problem most likely originated. In other words it sounds to me the previous owner may have accidentally left the locker on in hard surface areas or driven to extremes again with locker left on causing the early stage problem you have described.

I'm not a fan of lockers on front diff, as they can cause more trouble than they're worth, they should be put on the rear diff first and have LSDs or traction control ( if its a Bosch model ) up front. Nearly everyone I talk to that have got or had lockers on the front telling of these kinds or similar issues simply because of the front diff being over stressed.

[cal415]

Does anyone know of any wrecking p38s?

I just had a pleasant conversation with the previous owner, his theory is tough luck for me... I have a feeling I baught his basket case and he knows it.

[RR P38]

Does anyone know of any wrecking p38s?

I just had a pleasant conversation with the previous owner, his theory is tough luck for me... I have a feeling I baught his basket case and he knows it.

How many splines you got?

[steane]

Caveat emptor unfortunately.

I hope you get it sorted quickly;)

[RR P38]

Kar kraft Egerton st Silverwater.

They will do a courier service to probs about $30-40.

NEW

CV JOINT+HALF SHAFT ASSY - R/ROV (P38)(LH) TDB104090 $569.25

The right hand side is TDB104080 $664.95

[cal415]

How many splines you got?

24 I would guess? Looks like a disco etc 24 spline

[cal415]

Kar kraft Egerton st Silverwater.

They will do a courier service to probs about $30-40.

NEW

CV JOINT+HALF SHAFT ASSY - R/ROV (P38)(LH) TDB104090 $569.25

The right hand side is TDB104080 $664.95

****ing hell, out of my price range for now considering I just handed over a crap load of cash for the car, tempted to wreck it now.... or pull the diffs and TC and try swinging some disco diffs under it with a lt230 already have all the parts for that, otherwise portals and it can become a comp vehicle.

What a ****ed week I am having....

[p38arover]

Unfortunately, Bundalene is away but maybe Andrew E on this forum can help - if Andy still frequents it.

[wayneg]

Now Wrecking (Range Rover 4WD's) (http://all4wdspares.com/index.php/vehicles-now-dismantling/category/10-now-wrecking-range-rover)

[RR P38]

Land rover wants another $500 on those prices.

Just pull all the running gear out and go rear wheel drive till you get the parts.

[Psimpson7]

cheap one on ebay uk, with reasonable shipping.

Range Rover P38 Front Driveshaft Passenger TDB104090 Warranty | eBay (http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Range-Rover-P38-Front-Driveshaft-passenger-TDB104090-Warranty-/230990765256?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item35c81f5cc8)

good luck getting it sorted.

[Pete38]

Land rover wants another $500 on those prices.

Just pull all the running gear out and go rear wheel drive till you get the parts.

Don't think the viscous coupling will like that too much though.

[justinc]

VC will be fine, it may even be seized; that will account for the failure of the front CV....:(

JC

[Pete38]

VC will be fine, it may even be seized; that will account for the failure of the front CV....:(

JC

Slightly off topic so I'll try not to hijack the thread.

Really? Is that because there is minimal strain in it even though it's locked permanently? Where a different size wheel on tarmac will permanently put loads of torque on the vc? Would running just the front be ok?

[justinc]

The VC will transfer torque to the slipping axle output, Viscous coupling unit - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

although when seized ( failed) it just acts as a spool and supplies 50/50 output with NO slip. This is what renders Freelander IRD's to scrap value in no time....

JC

[cal415]

The VC seems fine i think from the testing i have done, i was looking forward to seeing how it works off road, i have only put the thing in low range twice, once when i picked it up and again showing my wife how to do it being that it was supposed to be her car to drive.

I have dodgy'd up a temporary solution, waiting for the sealant to dry up a bit at the moment before i finish it off, so going RWD only, or should i lock the front diff so atleast some drive is going to the front, i dont want to damage the VC as well......

From what i can see i think the previous owner gave the car a hard time off road, the damage to the CV may have been done on his last outing, its a bit of a shame the VC hides the lack of drive to one diff. Looking at the end of the axle the splines are so badly worn down they are almost flat there are also several large chunks out of the shaft, at the other end of the shaft you can see where the axle has been riding up into the hemisphere and rubbing on the cross pin giving the end of the axle a smooth polished look - not sure how long it would have taken to go this far but i would guess quite some time.

The previous owner better hope he never crosses my path again,there are several issues and things that are quite obvious that he left out when selling it, not to mention all of his talk about how thorough his serving and maintenance was... Im just glad the CV didnt decide to lock solid down the track when my wife was driving with our kids in the car which was its intended purpose, but not sure if i want to trust it now....

[cal415]

cheap one on ebay uk, with reasonable shipping.

Range Rover P38 Front Driveshaft Passenger TDB104090 Warranty | eBay (http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Range-Rover-P38-Front-Driveshaft-passenger-TDB104090-Warranty-/230990765256?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item35c81f5cc8)

good luck getting it sorted.
Looks good but it states it is for a 99-02 model, mine is a 96, does anyone know what the differences is?

[RR P38]

The VC seems fine i think from the testing i have done, i was looking forward to seeing how it works off road, i have only put the thing in low range twice, once when i picked it up and again showing my wife how to do it being that it was supposed to be her car to drive.

I have dodgy'd up a temporary solution, waiting for the sealant to dry up a bit at the moment before i finish it off, so going RWD only, or should i lock the front diff so atleast some drive is going to the front, i dont want to damage the VC as well......

Front what i can see i think the previous owner gave the car a hard time off road, the damage to the CV may have been done on his last outing, its a bit of a shame the VC hides the lack of drive to one diff. Looking at the end of the axle the splines are so badly worn down they are almost flat there are also several large chunks out of the shaft, at the other end of the shaft you can see where the axle has been riding up into the hemisphere and rubbing on the cross pin giving the end of the axle a smooth polished look - not sure how long it would have taken to go this far but i would guess quite some time.

The previous owner better hope he never crosses my path again,there are several issues and things that are quite obvious that he left out when selling it, not to mention all of his talk about how thorough his serving and maintenance was... Im just glad the CV didnt decide to lock solid down the track when my wife was driving with our kids in the car which was its intended purpose, but not sure if i want to trust it now....

Stick with it mate........if the bank can cope. A P38 can cop a lot of abuse before it fails what they dont tolerate like any complex vehicle is lack of servicing.
I would be dropping the Trans and Transfer case fluid while Im under there, just for a look see, and piece of mind.
Get a good look at the coolant hoses as well (change them if in ANY doubt)
The later model has a stronger front diff (4 pin as apposed to 2 if I remember correctly) and TC on the front axle.
Keep it stock standard, sell the locker recoup some $$$.

[p38arover]

I want to make it clear that Cal didn't buy my P38A - just in case you saw the buying thread in the Markets. I hadn't seen Cal's reply to me asking for a price.

[cal415]

Haha dont worry Ron, i have no doubt yours would have been better kept than this one, besides does yours go off road ?? :)

[LowRanger]

Haha dont worry Ron, i have no doubt yours would have been better kept than this one, besides does yours go off road ?? :)

Well I did see Rons' on the footpath at a club meeting one night,if that is Offroad:D:D:D:wasntme::wasntme:

[cal415]

Well looks like All 4x4 have actually come through pretty well on this one, maybe they are finally starting to put realistic prices on there used items, but i have a axle and CV with boot, plus a axle seal kit, all for a little over 250.... The axle and CV are used but come with warranty, no where near as bad as i was expecting, now i need to get that damn axle nut off....

[Yorkie]

Well looks like All 4x4 have actually come through pretty well on this one, maybe they are finally starting to put realistic prices on there used items, but i have a axle and CV with boot, plus a axle seal kit, all for a little over 250.... The axle and CV are used but come with warranty, no where near as bad as i was expecting, now i need to get that damn axle nut off....

good result. :)
do they have the stake nut like a d2?, 460nm is a figure i remember, got a local workshop to undo it and retighten with new axle.

[cal415]

Yep, last time i tried getting one of these off(rear axles on my old D2, i ended up breaking 2 1/2in drive breaker bars before giving up and cutting the nuts off. This time i have a mate doing it in a workshop with a massive rattle gun for me, 460nm sounds like a **** load, i will have to check if my big torque wrench even goes that high.

[dobbo]

Get Lokka to pull out Big bertha, sorry to hear of your problems. Anyway when we testing out these rangies up yours?

[Yorkie]

on here www.discovery2.co.uk / Front Wheel Hub / Bearing Assy (http://www.discovery2.co.uk/fronthub.html) he says 490nm for stake nut, if p38 same that is?.

[p38arover]

Well I did see Rons' on the footpath at a club meeting one night,if that is Offroad:D:D:D:wasntme::wasntme:

It's been "off-road" twice in the 11 years I have owned it (and I drive it into my back yard quite often).

[wayneg]

Yep, last time i tried getting one of these off(rear axles on my old D2, i ended up breaking 2 1/2in drive breaker bars before giving up and cutting the nuts off. This time i have a mate doing it in a workshop with a massive rattle gun for me, 460nm sounds like a **** load, i will have to check if my big torque wrench even goes that high.

As I said before I had a Truck tyre place loosen mine and after I had done the job went back for them to torque it up with a torque wrench about 1.5 mtrs long. No way could I do it with DIY tools

[benji]

Rave says 260nm for the drive shaft nut.

[p38arover]

One reason why I haven't tried to sell my P38A on the forum is that if something does go wrong, I'd feel terrible. If it sells to someone outside the forum, I'd probably never hear about.

Normally I'd just trade it in but I don't need a replacement and, besides, would the car yard care that it's got a totally rebuilt engine with top hat liners, injected LPG, Haltech Interceptor, long range tank, Kaymar rear bar and wheel carrier? Not when it comes to making an offer.

[cal415]

Sounds like a good one Ron... Wanna swap? ;)

I ended up getting this sorted out last night, they are a rather easy to work on honestly, much better than doing a CV in a Defender, classic or disco etc

Thanks for the info re stake nut, i read a few different things from different sources in the end my torque wrench only goes to 220nm, so it ended up getting torqued to FT then flattened out.

It drives much better now its actually putting drive down on both ends.... i even got to test it up the mountain on our new property tonight and i was fairly impressed, now on to the other issues, biggest down fall i ahve found so far is the 20-23L per 100km constant fuel usage, it also feels pretty doughy especially down low, i currently have 2 d1 v8s both i feel go as well or better than the p38 power wise, especially the manual, and compared to my county its an absolute slug.

[p38arover]

On highway, you should be getting about 13 litres/100km with an average of around 18. A lot of suburban driving will get you 21.

[Scouse]

With a combination of city/highway use, both ours get between 16 - 16.5 l/100km. If I reset the computer on the highway, it sit's between 11-13 depending on the speed/hills.

[p38arover]

With a combination of city/highway use, both ours get between 16 - 16.5 l/100km. If I reset the computer on the highway, it sit's between 11-13 depending on the speed/hills.

I agree with the last sentence. Re the first, I do mostly suburban and little highway so my results are worse.