Running out of fuel.

[Fred Nerk]

I was going to ask, "What happens when a D4 runs out of diesel fuel?". But I'm guessing the answer would be "The engine stops".

So, what I really want to know is, How do you get it going again? Is it as simple as putting in fuel and starting it up? Are there diesel lines to bleed? and how much fuel did it take to fill the truely empty tank? (as opposed to the usual empty tank reported by the car's instruments).

Edit: I have a D4 SDV6 MY12. If there are differences for TDV6 etc owners of the others may appreciate specific advice too.

[Celtoid]

I'm interested in this thread too. I own two modern diesel cars but these are the first I've ever owned and I'm 50, so I've owned a few cars through the years.

I've heard that diesels have to be bled, etc before you can start after running out but they have improved and advanced so much through the years, I was wondering if this still holds true.

Thanks,

Kev.

[Boofla]

I'm interested in this thread too. I own two modern diesel cars but these are the first I've ever owned and I'm 50, so I've owned a few cars through the years.

I've heard that diesels have to be bled, etc before you can start after running out but they have improved and advanced so much through the years, I was wondering if this still holds true.

Thanks,

Kev.

Is there nothing in the manual?

In my direct injection patrol if you run out you have to manually pump the fuel through by pressing a "button" style suction thingo on top of the fuel filter but it can take upwards of 100 presses, like when you prime your mower. But a lot harder.
I'd assume in more "modern" motors you might just fill up again turn on ignition so that fuel pump primes it then just crank it till it kicks in???

Maybe call some one like berima diesel and ask them?

[101RRS]

I believe the basic fuel supply system on the 2.7 and 3.0 is basically the same.

With the 2.7 you bleed the system via a Schroeder valve in the fuel rail however in my experience this is actually not needed but is the process outlined in the workshop manual.

The lift pump in the fuel tank obviously runs when the ignition is switched on and with a couple of cycles of the ignition will push the fuel through to the injection pump pushing the air through out through the injectors when the engine is finally started. Clearly if the system has run dry it will take a little while for the lift pump to get the fuel through the whole system.

I have found that on start there is a little cranking as the air is pushed into the cylinders then when fuel goes in and it fires up.

[discotwinturbo]

The D4 3.0 cuts out before it runs out....it warns you.

You just refuel and once it gets over a predetermined level, crank over and it's starts. Just a long walk to the server or a call to someone to bring you some fuel.

I have seen it work.

Brett...

[gghaggis]

The D4 3.0 cuts out before it runs out....it warns you.

You just refuel and once it gets over a predetermined level, crank over and it's starts. Just a long walk to the server or a call to someone to bring you some fuel.

I have seen it work.

Brett...

This works as long as you don't try to restart the car after it shuts down, until you've added the fuel (minimum of 10 ltrs?). Otherwise you'll have to bleed it via the shraeder valve.

Cheers,

Gordon

[TDV6]

And that Schroeder valve is in the most accessible of spots (not) though you can see it on top at the back of the motor just under the windscreen where small strong fingers are the go.

Ryall

[jonesy63]

In December 2010, I filled up at Three Ways NT, and tried to make it all the way to Mt Isa. Unfortunately, I was going into a pretty string headwind all day, with quite a bit loaded on the roofrack. I ran out of fuel about 20km short of Mt Isa, and the D3 cut out. I pulled over to the verge and emptied a jerry can into it. I then did what Garry mentioned before - turned engine to "on" position and then off, about 4 times, to purge air out. I then started and drove to Mt Isa and filled up. There were no issues afterwards either.
Cheers,
Rob

[phl]

Asking the service tech at Alto about this, he said:

1) It will stutter before it runs out as a warning
2) There will still be 3-4L left (I suspect that's why the diesel has a lower capacity). So just fill and start, with possible one turn over to get fuel into the rails; very unlikely to need to bleed.

[Disco4_tech]

Simple ignition on and off a few times is sufficient for a fuel filter change. Running out of fuel and putting air through the rails and injectors will take a few turns of the ignition though.

[scarry]

Much easier than a Puma:mad:

On another note,if you open the drain on the fuel filter is it supposed to be done with the vehicle running or when it is off.

They certainly tried their hardest to put it (the fuel filter)in a very difficult place to change....!

[Disco4_tech]

When the vehicle is off. Good practice to also cycle the ignition a few times after draining the water drain...just for peace of mind.

It's not that bad man. Bash plate 10mm bolts, 3 10mm bolts and unplug the connector and twist that bad boy out :)

[Graeme]

It's not that bad man. Bash plate 10mm bolts, 3 10mm bolts and unplug the connector and twist that bad boy out :)
For a few moments I thought about having to drain the filter on the side of the road when it was raining, but fortunately realised it was water on the outside triggering the warning. Unfortunately the sealant I later applied to seal the connector wires is no longer doing the job and as it wasn't fixed under warranty when requested, the warning now occurs with every puddle.

[SBD4]

For a few moments I thought about having to drain the filter on the side of the road when it was raining, but fortunately realised it was water on the outside triggering the warning. Unfortunately the sealant I later applied to seal the connector wires is no longer doing the job and as it wasn't fixed under warranty when requested, the warning now occurs with every puddle.

Graeme, can't you force them to fix it since you can prove it was brought to the dealers attention during the warranty period?

[Graeme]

The reluctance in following-up with the dealer is due to the time and cost of getting to the dealer then probably staying overnight for the part to arrive, assuming the dealer doesn't have to get approval from LR to fix it, let alone that I twice requested that it be fixed. I'm reluctant to use a closer dealer who effectively isn't much closer anyway since I can't get home and back whilst the work is done. I really should be getting the turbo oil drain pipe rework done too but if I could just buy the kit I'd probably do it myself to avoid the travel time and cost.