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justinc
15th August 2013, 03:27 PM
OK, apart from a bit of claret from a sharp hose clamp, (See gore pic below :twisted:) it took 2 hours to remove. It isn't particularly difficult, just fiddly. I would say it is a DIY if you have some patience and some 1/4"drive long reach bars and socket set, a pair of hose spring clip removal pliers, and some band aids :D.

Firstly, remove the under skirt and all engine undercovers, the airbox, the coolant expansion bottle, and either drain the coolant if you are changing it out, or plug the pipes to prevent loss. unclip the top of the shroud, remove and unplug the fan, (It is a left hand thread)Then unscrew the power steer (I think that is what it is..:confused:) cooler from the bottom of the shroud and unbolt the 6 small screws with hex heads holding the shroud to the rad, and the turbo inlet pipework from the passenger side of the shroud. withdraw the shroud upward. Remove accessory belt and check tensioner and idlers; these were ALL in dire need of replacement, this vehicle has 92,000km up.

The main battery wire connection is on the outer edge of the alternator, covered with a red rubber boot. It is hard to see but after the 3 bolts and the front stiffener bracket for the alternator mounting are removed and the alternator is free to drop down, it can be rotated slightly to access this 13mm nut. Undo and remove the main battery wire, then pull alternator forwards enough to remove the plug at the back, LR are thoughtful enough to allow excess wire length so this can be done:)

You will have to jiggle and wiggle it a bit, and pull some small coolant hoses out of the way but the alternator will come out easily.

Note:

Firstly, A big thanks to Sniegy, a quick call to him after I discovered my RAVE disc got damaged and wouldnt read, had him help me out in no time, So thanks Pete!! :)

Secondly, I took off the drivers wheel and inner guard liner, even though apparently it looks like you don't need to do it at first glance, you do to get a look at things and it also helps with light so you can see better:p

Thirdly, be very careful of these spring clips holding the hoses on, I sliced and tore my hand very easily on one, while blindly undoing the main battery lead from the side of the alternator.

All in all it wasn't as bad as I was lead to believe, and refitting everything when the new Alternator turns up should go without a hitch, except I am thinking the main lead reconnection and starting the nut maybe a bit of a pain...

Part numbers;
Alternator YLE500340 (Supercedes apparently to LRO26344)
Main drive belt PQS500430
Belt tensioner PQG500160
Idler, small, 2 required PQH500090
Idler, larger, 1 required PQH500080

Enjoy :)

JC

Pedro_The_Swift
15th August 2013, 03:38 PM
should the belt and pulleys have been done via service by 92K?

oh, and JC?:angel:
whatever you do--
dont hook the van up to it---:no2:

justinc
15th August 2013, 04:10 PM
should the belt and pulleys have been done via service by 92K?

oh, and JC?:angel:
whatever you do--
dont hook the van up to it---:no2:

Not sure. I haven't serviced this particular vehicle, only done the trans service on it. The owner likes to do his own oil changes etc. I would say that at 80,000km these serpentine belt tensioners and idlers need to be eyeballed, and they are cheap enough to replace anyhow. IIRC the Tensioner is about $145, from LR, the idlers about $58 each and the belt was $55.

And no, I do not want to own one of these, much as I like to drive it :twisted:

JC

BigJon
15th August 2013, 04:16 PM
Something for me to look forward to on mine. Maybe I will make a mental note to do the belt / idlers / etc. at 80 000km (currently still under 70 000km).

harlie
16th August 2013, 06:47 AM
Several TDV8s needing new alternators, any obvious reasons JC?

I was looking at V10TDi Touareg and found high numbers (like a guarantee) of alternator failures – they put it down to where it’s located. It is wedged between the back of the engine and the firewall down between the two banks (driven by shaft), no air flow getting absurdly hot. Full day to change (anyone seen under the bonnet of a V10 can imagine why), about 4k job all up. Same as your comment, awesome car to drive – never own one.

Graeme
16th August 2013, 07:18 AM
check tensioner and idlers; these were ALL in dire need of replacement, this vehicle has 92,000km up.
I wonder how they're going on my 3.0 D4 at 110K that spends a lot of its time in dusty conditions. I'm soon to fit a fused cable to the alternator so perhaps should get replacements beforehand.

Nomad9
21st July 2016, 07:01 PM
Hi JC,
Just come across your TDV8 alternator replacement procedure, mine needs replacing, just toasted it whilst on a trip.

The vehicle doesn't get back to my house until Monday just trying to do some prep work prior to arrival, bit of research. I'm assuming that the removal of the top fan shroud is easy ish........ have you learnt any more since you did this job three years ago?
Cheers Marty

BigJon
22nd July 2016, 07:26 PM
I did mine a while back. Be aware that you will need to replace a significant amount of coolant (a few hoses need to be removed for access).

Nomad9
24th July 2016, 11:08 AM
Hi BJ,
Thanks I bought some coolant on Friday, thanks for the heads up, based on the cost I'll be vacuuming and spilt coolant of the floor and reusing it........!!!

Cheers Marty

BigJon
24th July 2016, 12:35 PM
What coolant did you get? I use Holden Delco red. Same stuff as LR, but cheaper.

Nomad9
24th July 2016, 03:55 PM
Hi BJ,
Not talking to you any more.......... nuff said I didn't get the Delco red!!!

Cheers Marty

Graeme
24th July 2016, 05:10 PM
Hi JC,
Just come across your TDV8 alternator replacement procedure, mine needs replacingAs your vehicle is a RRS, the task is not the same.

A brother got to a point removing his MY08 TDV8's alternator where he could go no further until the WSM procedure was retrieved from Topix where it showed a seemingly unrelated bolt that had to be removed, after which he could move a pipe sideways enough to access the particular alternator bolt.

Here's the applicable section from the WSM.
111772

Nomad9
24th July 2016, 05:54 PM
Hi Graeme,
I was just off to look at Topix to make sure I had everything covered, this has been very useful.

cheer Marty

Chilly
5th October 2016, 05:25 PM
Hi,
My Alternator has also packed in! Where are people buying hoers from and how much?

Thanks,
Chilly

Nomad9
5th October 2016, 09:20 PM
Hi Chilly,
Best price I could get was genuine Denso new from TRS in Adelaide, cheaper delieverd to Perth than anywhere in WA for me. Can't remember exactly how much $800 ish seems to ring a bell plus delivery. They also do a second-hand one cheaper obvioulsy however I'm looking long term ownership and reliability.

Cheers Marty

Chilly
11th October 2016, 12:38 AM
Hi Chilly,
Best price I could get was genuine Denso new from TRS in Adelaide, cheaper delieverd to Perth than anywhere in WA for me. Can't remember exactly how much $800 ish seems to ring a bell plus delivery. They also do a second-hand one cheaper obvioulsy however I'm looking long term ownership and reliability.

Cheers Marty

Thanks for replying Marty. I have purchased from UK. Much cheaper and delivered within a week to ten days.
Thanks
Chilly

Nomad9
11th October 2016, 12:54 AM
Hi Chilly,
I was in a fairly remote WA location at the time and didn't have the time unfortunately, in the end as it turned out I had plenty of time when the mechanics shop opened the bonnet they didn't want to go anywhere near it. Ended up on the back of a tilt tray. Thems the breaks........
Cheers Marty