Is she running hot?

[lebanon]

Hi,

this is the reading I get when driving the 110 in summer

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/08/764.jpg

when going uphill the temperature dial reads this but never reaches any higher temperatures

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/08/765.jpg

The radiator has been cleaned and filled with a mixture of water and anti-freeze, a new thermostat was installed.

My 110 had its 2.5 swapped with a 4.2 while the 3 core radiator that served the old engine was kept.

Their is no coolant loss above the normal and the cylinder head were tested with no signs of problems in theme.

I have been told by the radiator workshop manager that radiators tend to lose their cooling capacities with time. (Mine is still the genuine one since 1990) I am not to inclined to believe that.
Also, I have been told that a 4 core is needed because of the larger capacity of the engine.

What do you think?

[2stroke]

A proper temp gauge will fit right in place of that one, bear in mind you'll need a gauge and sender. If the gauge is connected to a sender meant for the new engine it could be reading wrong.

[nedflanders]

I fitted an engine guardian and its frightening how inaccurate the factory gauge is. Mine reads just under half whether its 60 or 90 degs.

[Blknight.aus]

I fitted an engine guardian and its frightening how inaccurate the factory gauge is. Mine reads just under half whether its 60 or 90 degs.

Normalised gauge, if you're within the normal operating range it doesnt move.

Some of the old school systems do it with the sensors out put being shaped others shape the gauge.

[87County]

Hi,

this is the reading I get when driving the 110 in summer

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/08/764.jpg

when going uphill the temperature dial reads this but never reaches any higher temperatures

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/08/765.jpg

The radiator has been cleaned and filled with a mixture of water and anti-freeze, a new thermostat was installed.

My 110 had its 2.5 swapped with a 4.2 while the 3 core radiator that served the old engine was kept.

Their is no coolant loss above the normal and the cylinder head were tested with no signs of problems in theme.

I have been told by the radiator workshop manager that radiators tend to lose their cooling capacities with time. (Mine is still the genuine one since 1990) I am not to inclined to believe that.
Also, I have been told that a 4 core is needed because of the larger capacity of the engine.

What do you think?

Your radiator workshop guy could be on the right track.

Just consider this though - did the temp indication change when you fitted the new thermostat? I've had varying indications from new thermostats. They don't all open at the same temp even though the printing on the box says they will.

The factory LR temp gauge is not considered to be a quality item or a reliable indicator.

[Cobber]

I've got a thermo fan on mine and it never goes past half way, even on a hot day under load ... might be an option worth considering if your gauge readings are right :)

[uninformed]

I would say ditch the crappy LR gauge and get a decent one like VDo etc. And I would also say that unless you have been removing and rodding your radiator every 2 years then there is a very good chance you are over due for a new one.

[Fraz]

At what point does one replace a radiator? How old etc

[uninformed]

At what point does one replace a radiator? How old etc

depends on design, material and service life. With the LR defender units out of the Tdi, they are on the small side. They apparently need rodding out every time you do a timing belt. That is, remove the rad, remove the ends of tanks and have the tubes cleaned out via a rod. You should also be flushing and replacing the coolant on a regular basis on these older vehicles. Use good quality coolant either pre mixed or use distilled/demineralised water with concentrate. My OEM rad lasted about 8 years before the guts went to crap. My Adrad replacement lasted about 3 before the fins corroded off......

[BilboBoggles]

Does it have a viscous fan - When going up hills on a hot day - do you hear it roaring? IF not then I bet it's the viscous fan clutch. You definitely should hear it making a lot of noise when it's getting that hot on a hill.

The other thing to try is to get it hot, and then spray the radiator with water. The radiator tubes that are blocked will stay wetter longer, because they are cooler.

[Nomad9]

Hi Lebanon,
I would think if you radiator has been in since 1990 as mentioned by others you would be well overdue for at least getting yours reconditioned. I weight mine, I weighed a new genuine one in a LR shop so I know I'm getting a good datum. I then took mine out of the car, flushed it cleaned it and blew it out with air then I weighed it, found over a kilo difference so I put a new radiator in, and yes weighed the new one before I put it in so I can see how much crap it has in it in the future.
Quit basic and rudimentary I know but it gives me an idea. My 110 never goe above half way. I would have said looking at yours it is a bit clogged.
I have found that if the radiator is clear the gauge stays were it is and any additional heat load is taken by the thermostat either opening more or closing when on the overrun going down a hill, this is keeping the engine at a regular temp, once the gauge starts moving this tells you the thermostat is fully open and the radiator / fan can't cope with the additional heat load. Lost some efficiency.

By the way, I put a four core radiator in my Pootrol replacing a three core (quite a while ago), the engine actually ran hotter because the fan and the system was only designed to pull the air through a three core plus the air con rad. I ended up putting a three core back in, this was just a lesson for me. I suspect that if you go to a four core you could fit twin thermo fans, this would more than likely fix that problem.
I got a set of twin thermo fans from an old Ford Falcon an AU I think, they worked a treat.

[lebanon]

Thank you mates for your replies, I have put a list of action to remedy this problem.

1. Replace the thermostat.
2. Check the viscous fan once more ( I have previously used the newspaper method, now I will try stopping the engine when hot and try turning the fan)
3. Fit a VDO temperature gauge and sender
4. Replace the radiator even though it is clean because it was rodded every couple of years

the missing component of the cooling system that wasn't checked is the water pump, but since I have no issue with the heat while driving on the high-way I believe that it is OK

[BilboBoggles]

Re the viscous fan - I've never had much luck with hand tests on these, they will always slip a little and it's hard to tell what it's doing when the engine is revving at 2000 rpm. As I understand it, the viscous coupling relies on centrifugal oil pressure inside to perform the locking, a bimetallic strip controls a valve which controls how much lockup there is. The bimetallic strip detects the air temperature of the air flowing over the radiator.

But it should be quite obvious from the cab when the fan has engaged, you'll hear the additional roaring/droning sound, which will quickly dissapear as the radiator cools down.

[Bushie]

Viscous fan in my old Rangie was controlled by 2 x 6mm bolts straight through it. :D:D
Never missed a beat in the 450000km I put on it.


Martyn

[lebanon]

Viscous fan in my old Rangie was controlled by 2 x 6mm bolts straight through it. :D:D
Never missed a beat in the 450000km I put on it.


Martyn

I have the same configuration on an old viscous fan somewhere in my workshop, but it makes the fuel consumption soar high. I must confess that is pretty efficient.

[BilboBoggles]

Ah - Yes I too have experienced the pleasure of a locked up viscous unit, although that one had seized. Was in a nearly mint 83 Range Rover, whilst dragging a commodore off at the lights, the damned fan exploded, and took out a power steering hose, put a rather neat set of large dents in the bonnet, smashed the radiator, and the fan cowling. I nearly crapped myself with the noise. Made a Huge Mess of the engine bay! So if you do plan to put a bolt in it - it might be worth putting a new set of blades on it, otherwise could be "fun"

[lebanon]

Hi,

I am ordering a VDO temperature gauge with the sensor, any idea about the temperature sensor thread size for the manifold of the V8 with carburetors?

I am sorry for asking but I have no access to my 110.

Thank you.

[DiscoMick]

My 1995 300Tdi in the Disco has had both the radiator and viscous fan replaced, so if yours are 1990 originals I'd say they're probably on the way out. My radiator still worked reasonably OK in normal driving when it was replaced 4 years ago, but once it was out it was obvious there was a lot of damage and reduced circulation.

[Hugh_D]

Hi,

I am ordering a VDO temperature gauge with the sensor, any idea about the temperature sensor thread size for the manifold of the V8 with carburetors?

I am sorry for asking but I have no access to my 110.

Thank you.



I have fitted a temp gauge and new sensor as I was not happy with the LR standard. My 110 runs around 86 to 92. I find with cruse on driving slower is when the temp rises.

[lebanon]

Thank you mates for your replies, I have put a list of action to remedy this problem.

1. Replace the thermostat.
2. Check the viscous fan once more ( I have previously used the newspaper method, now I will try stopping the engine when hot and try turning the fan)
3. Fit a VDO temperature gauge and sender
4. Replace the radiator even though it is clean because it was rodded every couple of years

the missing component of the cooling system that wasn't checked is the water pump, but since I have no issue with the heat while driving on the high-way I believe that it is OK

I never thought that all listed items in my previous posting had to be done to solve the overheating problem.

In fact the radiator, thermostat and viscous fan were all defective.

The temperature gauge and sender were also changed to the more accurate VDO product to ensure proper reading of the temperature.

Now the temperature moves between 85 to 90

Thank you all for advise and shared knowledge.