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mtn.goat
22nd August 2013, 12:02 AM
Hi ladies and gents. Have been snooping around here for a few weeks. My dad had a swb series ute for hunting and fishing when I was a kid.

The charm of these vehicles have recently captured my attn. Now saving and searching for a swb wagon or ute to drive on club rego and hit some trails.

Some pointers would be great. Not after a minter but don't want to end up with a money pit either.

Thanks.

debruiser
22nd August 2013, 05:44 AM
Good luck.... I'm currently in the search for 2.... only I would be happy with any condition... fixing them is half the fun!

There are many many more talented ppl on here on this topic than me. My offering is check for rust in the firewall, and chassis. Unless you are going to rebuild mechanical parts see if you can drive the car first. Series 3 gearboxes will jump out of 2nd, from memory it only takes 30000kms to start from new.... but you get used to it and who uses 2nd anyway!

Check for how many oil leaks there are - and there will be some. Obvious stuff like electricals you need to check. Remember these things are old and were sold as "you can do anything and make anything from them so take it home and modify it" cars, so every man and his dog has probably had a go at it by now. I bought one that had dead shorts wired into the headlight circuit.. they couldn't figure out why the lights didn't work. Also had melted wiring in it, PO said he chopped a wheelie bin of wiring out of it when he bought it.

I have a LWB with a 186 in it.... would NEVER buy another with a 186. I don't like it but there again there are plenty of ppl here that have ripped out their LR engine and stuck one in. I want to tear my 186 out and put something else in.

Where abouts in Qld are you?

mtn.goat
22nd August 2013, 11:09 AM
Thanks for the reply mate. I only have phone Internet so apologies if reply's are short or all over they place.

Being advertised as 'the go anywhere vehicle' really has me thinking just where have some of them gone!

Thanks for the heads up about the boxes, thought only the non syncromesh units had problems popping out of gear. Am aware of rust issues in the firewalls and rear crossmember. Are there any other regular faults that are just ok to try and ignore, Whiney diffs etc?

I can't fathom the prices being asked for some holden sixes these days. When I was 17 (27 now) had to pay to have a complete hk kingswood with a fresh red 186 taken away. I would be ok with a Holden or Ford cross flow. But ideally want a healthy 2.25 diesel.

Am at a point in my automotive life where I just want to do basic maintainence, pay rego and drive. And if I break something it's going to be a straightforward fix. Though If I'm lucky enough to find a diesel i really would like to give cooking oil fuel thing a go. (any links to converted 2.25's would be great).

I'm on the the Sunshine Coast btw.

gromit
22nd August 2013, 03:11 PM
Hi ladies and gents. Have been snooping around here for a few weeks. My dad had a swb series ute for hunting and fishing when I was a kid.

The charm of these vehicles have recently captured my attn. Now saving and searching for a swb wagon or ute to drive on club rego and hit some trails.

Some pointers would be great. Not after a minter but don't want to end up with a money pit either.

Thanks.


I guess you have a couple of options depending on how soon you want to use the Land Rover.

Buy one already registered $3/4K upwards or buy one that needs work. I tend to buy the 'need work' ones but you end up spending more on them and there is a delay (sometimes quite long) before they hit the road.

Bulkhead has already been mentioned. Door tops are a consumable item, tend to rot out but not too expensive to replace.
Rear crossmember can have rust problems along with front dumb irons, outriggers and other crossmembers. Depends on whether it's been stored outside and kept clean underneath.
Springs can go 'flat' in time and wear, possible to get them re-set or replaced.
I'm not aware of the gearbox problem mentioned but leaky axle seals, gearbox seals, rear main seals, all easily fixed.
If it's been off the road for a long time you might end up spending a bit on the braking system. Radiators can have the fins corrode away if left constantly wet.

Lots of other wear & tear problems but all fixable.
Parts can be expensive in Australia but you can get them shipped from the UK.


Colin

gromit
22nd August 2013, 03:25 PM
How about a 3litre Perkins powered Series III ?

Land rover shorty | Cars, Vans & Utes | Gumtree Australia Queensland - Toowoomba Region | 1024716303 (http://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/toowoomba-region/cars-vans-utes/land-rover-shorty-/1024716303)


Colin

debruiser
22nd August 2013, 06:09 PM
How about a 3litre Perkins powered Series III ?

Land rover shorty | Cars, Vans & Utes | Gumtree Australia Queensland - Toowoomba Region | 1024716303 (http://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/toowoomba-region/cars-vans-utes/land-rover-shorty-/1024716303)


Colin


NICE. That's pretty much what I want to build.... pity I dont have $5000 to spend :(

The ho har's
22nd August 2013, 06:39 PM
How about a 3litre Perkins powered Series III ?

Land rover shorty | Cars, Vans & Utes | Gumtree Australia Queensland - Toowoomba Region | 1024716303 (http://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/toowoomba-region/cars-vans-utes/land-rover-shorty-/1024716303)


Colin


NICE. That's pretty much what I want to build.... pity I dont have $5000 to spend :(


Guys Guys... please at least know youre series...that is a wide light late series 2a;) Though if you whant a Perkins in one it would be a good buy:)

Mrs hh:angel:

debruiser
23rd August 2013, 05:26 AM
Guys Guys... please at least know youre series...that is a wide light late series 2a;) Though if you whant a Perkins in one it would be a good buy:)

Mrs hh:angel:

I agree, but you have to admit that the front gaurds look like defender gaurds. I havn't heard much about perkins conversions do you know much about it?????

gromit
23rd August 2013, 07:58 AM
Guys Guys... please at least know youre series...that is a wide light late series 2a;) Though if you whant a Perkins in one it would be a good buy:)

Mrs hh:angel:

1971 would be a very, very late 2a ? Door hinges are possibly a giveaway.

It actually looks more like a Defender front end from the light surrounds, bonnet, grille position & TDi decal.


Colin

Sitec
23rd August 2013, 10:16 AM
First things first... Budget.. How much are you looking to spend? Secondly, how mechanically minded are you? (If you are not, by the end of series ownership you will be! :D). Having sworn I'd never buy another Land Rover having left the UK, here I am having owned a 130, now owning a 101 again, and restoring/building a Tdi powered Ser 2 for the wife.. Not only that, there is half another Ser 2 in the yard, and another forum members 110, 90 and various spares also in my yard... They're addictive for sure. You'll find a 'farm find' for between $200 and $750.. They will need work.. Lots. As said before, chassis and firewall are the bits to look at. Cross members etc are reasonably easy to replace if you can use a grinder, read a tape measure and can use a mig. If the main chassis rails are bad then walk away, or budget for a body off resto. If you are thinking of the veg oil route, then a Tdi transplant will be in order. (Easier on a LWB due to length if you plan to fit the 5 speed as well). With this in mind, you can look at vehicles that have u/s engine and trans as you'd be transplanting anyhow.. If you just want a rag top shorty to use and fettle as you go, then buy something that is already on the road, and be prepared to spend more on initial purchase price. Make sure when you test drive it that it is good... Goes, stops, starts from cold nicely, steers as it should, etc etc. They are all old vehicles now but one that is 'on the road' should be fit for that purpose. If you are not confident mechanically, take someone who is. They will find the faults and then you can barter the price down to suit. That Perkins powered vehicle does not look too bad.. Knock $1000 or more off it and you'd have a good little vehicle I'd think. There is a guy selling a Nissan and 5 speed adapted to Series transfer box on here in the Markets Section... I would think that would work quite well in a Series.. If you want an idea of a chassis up rebuild, check out "SWIMBO'S Ser 2 Tdi - The Beginning" in Projects and Tutorials. It'll give you an idea of the work involved in modifying and building up a vehicle to your spec..... Good luck, and let us know what you find!! Either way it'll be your Land Rover!!! :)

The ho har's
23rd August 2013, 05:36 PM
;):)
I agree, but you have to admit that the front gaurds look like defender gaurds. I havn't heard much about perkins conversions do you know much about it?????


Do not know nothing about this vehicle:)


1971 would be a very, very late 2a ? Door hinges are possibly a giveaway.

It actually looks more like a Defender front end from the light surrounds, bonnet, grille position & TDi decal.


Colin


Since the add hasn't revealed the chassis number we won't no:mad:

Though it is common practice to move the radiator forward to fit a bigger motor, though in this case they may have just fitted a defender front end on ;) as we all know the chassis are all the same width and length across the board for 110/109's in the engine bay

Mrs hh:angel:

The ho har's
23rd August 2013, 05:41 PM
mtn.goat...


sorry for our ramblings

Mrs hh:angel:

Landy Smurf
23rd August 2013, 06:12 PM
whenever i look at series i always look for rust. main spots are;
chassis- the front end dumb irons(the front face is where they go first), the rear crossmember, give the outriggers a quick look but normally are not to much of a problem. the gearbox and bellhousing crossmembers, even if they are rusty see if they are still straight might give an indication of the use of the vehicle. also where the springs attach to the chassis.
firewall- footwells, a pillar(sides of the firewall) and near where the mirrors attach or under the outside of the windscreen.
doors- the bottom of the door frame and the door top where it attaches to the door bottom(very common).
chassis's can be easy sometimes to work on but may be a bit expensive if it has a bit of rust, mainly the front dumb irons and rear crossmember.
then of course you have the engine and drive train.
most of the time the diffs are not an issue, if it drives make sure to try all gears high and low and if you can find a hill or slope try the handbrake and the gear may pop out, i am not sure if it is an issue or just one of those things that can happen but does not matter so much.
I find a series with a straight body is one of the most important things now as they are hard to get and I can not panel beat so well.
check for originality- seats, zenith/solex carby depending on model.
what engine is in it of course(land rover engines are easy to tell apart from holden.
Some may have an overdrive or pto parts including a pto winch, these are of course bonus's.
Just like any car check oils and water/coolant, electrics and listen for any grinding sounds. there is a fair chance the brakes and steering may be a bit out this is not so much of a problem unless you are buying one that is registered and intend on driving it home.

oh and look at the swivels to see if they are nice and shiny if you have to get a new set of them it will set you back a few quid.
Also look at the fuel tank for rust or leaks or if the bottom is separating

mtn.goat
24th August 2013, 01:15 PM
Really appreciate the in depth knowledge especially in regards to rust. This thread will be my go to reference when checking out a possible purchase. Budget is sub -2k at the moment and slowly saving. I can work a spanner, did a year of pre vocational automotive engineering at Tafe. But Getting used to inch drive and finding motivation will be a challenge haha.

Spotted a swb ute near my new residence, registered with really rough paint. From a quick glance it seems to be a 2a. Will be leaving a EOI note next time I see it.

Not interested in soft tops. If its a ute must be a cab with the rounded rear 1/4 glass. (can some one inform me what these cabs are known as and when they were first introduced?).

Landy Smurf
24th August 2013, 01:42 PM
If you get a soft top it is better you could sell the canopy with the sticks for a good price as they are hard to get. The hard top canopies are easy to get and cheap.
The ute cabs come in 2 pieces, I always refer to the back part(with the 4 pieces of glass) as the turret(could also be known as the top turret) and the other part is just the roof.
they are just known as land rover ute cabs. AFAIK the start of the series 2(1958) all the way up to the late series 3(1984) all have the same ute cabs or can be swapped from one to the other.

if you got a soft top in good condition you would easily get $500 for the canvas canopy with the hood sticks/bows.

From my experience;
A SWB hard top canopy go for about $50 give or take a little.
A LWB hard top canopy may go for about $80 give or take a little.
A land rover ute cab(2 parts) in okish condition should go for at least $200
All depends how eager you are to wait for one and where you are located.

Sitec
24th August 2013, 07:35 PM
In the land of pom they're called 'truck cabs'. I have a hard top that I'm happy to swap with a truck cab as that's what SWIMBO has decided she wants on her Ser 2. Something will turn up vehicle wise! Post a wanted add on here and see what happens..

juddy
24th August 2013, 07:44 PM
Buy one for less that $1000 and plan to spend another 5000 at least, add another 5 if you want a very good finish.:p

mtn.goat
29th August 2013, 01:20 PM
Ok just I've seen some other hard top utes pop up in seaches with a very sqaure look. I'm guessing only found series 1's

Mrs hh, all good rambling is still learning :)

Sitec. When you refer to TDI are you talking about a specific rover engine or a turbo diesel in general? How would alternate fuels like cooking oil be better suited to such an engine over the 2.25d?

The Nissan adapted transfer case has me thinking patrol L28 diesel as a favourable conversion. But I've owned a twin carbed L28 with a few goodies in an old Skyline and the diesel crankhaft alone can fetch good $$ for stroker applications.

This is if I end up with a dead engine of course :whistling:

The ho har's
29th August 2013, 06:34 PM
Ok just I've seen some other hard top utes pop up in seaches with a very sqaure look. I'm guessing only found series 1's

Mrs hh, all good rambling is still learning :)

Sitec. When you refer to TDI are you talking about a specific rover engine or a turbo diesel in general? How would alternate fuels like cooking oil be better suited to such an engine over the 2.25d?

The Nissan adapted transfer case has me thinking patrol L28 diesel as a favourable conversion. But I've owned a twin carbed L28 with a few goodies in an old Skyline and the diesel crankhaft alone can fetch good $$ for stroker applications.

This is if I end up with a dead engine of course :whistling:


There is the Rover 200 TDi early and a later 300 TDi, then there is the TD5 but that's very modern:angel:

As said hoops and canvas are hard to come by, tuck cabs a reasonably easy to find;)

Mrs hh:angel: