Primer and paint

[rick130]

What paint and primer type does Land Rover use from the factory ? ('98MY)

Need to repaint a couple of rust repairs on the back doors that I've rubbed back by and de-oxidised.

[Dougal]

Not sure if this will help, but I gave two LR paint codes to a paint shop last week and they said Standox was the only system they could match it with.

Clear coat required for the alpine and arctic white I asked about.

[strangy]

Doubt this will answer your question, but I find it curious that LR seem to have chosen a paint system using a clear over solid rather than a straight solid.
During the repaint of my 130 I noted the white had a clear coat also. According to a local Panel Beater, "anything manufactured after 94 is 2 pack"

When I was exploring colour options for the 130 HiChem paints advised they could supply a solid single colour coat for some but required a base and clear for others (even though a solid colour in all cases) The situation was muddied further by the choice of Acrylic or 2k, with most suppliers stating some colours were unable to be mixed in Acrylic or 2k or vice versa without a base and top coat.

DeBeer paints came up with what I needed.

May I suggest a pressure pack of etch, another of undercoat and another of LR colour mixed at Supercheap (acrylic)
Acrylic will go over the 2 pack easy enough and the Supercheap colour match/mixing system and paint supplier is quite good (i.e its not actually a cheapo paint I think it "Colourspec system" off the top of my head)

[uninformed]

Cold gal. Job done!

[Epic_Dragon]

paint has mostly all gone from solid to a clear of base application as finish is improved, as is life span of paint. red for instance as a base/clear application will not fade like it does in single layer applications. as a painter i used to prefer spraying even none metallics as base and clear for all of those reasons, as clear is so nice to spray! given solid was always less time consuming. it does not matter if you use the same as what was on it from factory ric. other than if using acrylic, use acrylic everything, if using a 2 pack system, use 2 pack everything. i would not recommend mixing them as one can react to the other then you have a nice mess to deal with. any paint system be it standox, spies hecker, protec, dulon, they will all only require a paint code. if one cannot be found, then find a place that has what is called a spectro, and go in with a fuel cap or take the whole car. it scans the colour and then is taken to the computer and then brings up codes that may be different but that will be the same colour as your vehicle. they work very, very well! a lot of the time bringing up a closer off the gun match than the actual codes do from factory! but places like supercheap/sprints/autobarn that all mix up paints do not have spectros, crash/resto places and crash supplies shops are where you would find those :)
but in a nutshell, you can do either acrylic or 2 pack primer/paint but stick to one or the other from primer right through to paint. id recommend 2 pack but nothing wrong with either :)

[DoubleChevron]

I thought these days it was mostly for environmental reasons. Eg: I'm pretty sure some base coats these days are water, not solvent based :eek:

seeya.
Shane L.

[Epic_Dragon]

spies hecker has a water based system. is what i used at work. it was great. better for the environment, but was hard to make it try in damp conditions, and if it decided to have a hissy fit, it was harder to deal with than solvent based ones. i always find water based versions to be not as crisp colourwise as solvent. which is relaly hard to explain, it looks the same. but just not as nice. spies hecker was the best of the water based ones in my experience :)

[rick130]

May I suggest a pressure pack of etch, another of undercoat and another of LR colour mixed at Supercheap (acrylic)
Acrylic will go over the 2 pack easy enough and the Supercheap colour match/mixing system and paint supplier is quite good (i.e its not actually a cheapo paint I think it "Colourspec system" off the top of my head)

The etch is a great idea, if ED reckons it'll work with the existing paint.
Unfortunately SuperCrap, et al are 100km away.
I could always take it to the local panel shop, but he has the ****s with me ATM (probably because I haven't serviced his house A/C yet :angel:)


Cold gal. Job done!

Good call as I have a pot on hand, plus a pressure pack can.
Hell, my clutch pedal is Cold Gal Grey ATM :D


spies hecker has a water based system. is what i used at work. it was great. better for the environment, but was hard to make it try in damp conditions, and if it decided to have a hissy fit, it was harder to deal with than solvent based ones. i always find water based versions to be not as crisp colourwise as solvent. which is relaly hard to explain, it looks the same. but just not as nice. spies hecker was the best of the water based ones in my experience :)

Ta for that.
Any idea what system/supplier Land Rover used in the late nineties ?
And will acrylic work ok over 2 pack for touch up ?

The welds have corroded on the door frames, otherwise the doors are fine.
Scrape, wire brush and rust converter has killed it, just need to paint it now.

:D

[Epic_Dragon]

no idea but ill do some digging around and see if i can find out what was used :)i dare say it would be a 2 pack solid single layer application.

acrylic will be ok to use over 2 pack :) it is the other way around that wont play nice. acrylic normally does not like 2 pack over it as the solvents in 2pack soften up the acrylic and you get a reaction thats not so pretty. other way around is ok as not much can penetrate 2 pack.i often used clear to seal in any nastys when i couldnt solve reactions. clear seals it and then is a lovely base to paint over again!