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rb30gtr
26th August 2013, 11:53 AM
Hi All,

So this ongoing issue I am having that started with my Key Fob not working has escalated to a pretty high point of frustration.

Issue 1: Key fob stopped working and car wouldn't lock/unlock or disable alarm or start.
Solution to issue 1: Bought new key from LR UK, had the key coded and matched, along with the original and the alarm disabled. $500, and 3 week wait.
*Both keys now work to unlock manually and start the car.

Issue 2: Still no alarm\central locking
Suggested solution: white green wire, check join under floor for 12v, yes present, also removed junction and re soldered join just to be sure.

Issue 3: Still no alarm/central locking
Suggestion solution: Purchase and replace alarm receiver unit in hood lining. So I did. $150

No result. The disco will still not lock or unlock via the key remotes, both the brand new and original one.

What else can be the problem, I have chased the wiring circuits all through the car, check voltages, checked all fuses??
And repeatedly banged my head against the brick wall.

Could it be a CJB issue? How do i check if it is?

I have read ever post on here and everywhere I can find any info

The car is usable, but only using the original key to manually unlock, then to re-lock I use the button on the dash and hold the door handle on the passenger side to close. Works but very inconvenient.

Sorry for constantly bringing this issue up, but I am really stumped.

Cheers,
Ben

kiwirich
26th August 2013, 06:49 PM
Hi Ben,

If you can lock from the Buttons on the dash then at least the actual door electrics & fuses etc are all OK.

You can start the Car with your Keys so that proves that the Security Receiver can see the Key codes. ( Won't start without it )

Do you have any way to Read the fault codes ? It seems that the link from the Receiver to the Door control is the only part missing.

Richard

Peter
27th August 2013, 08:28 AM
Ben,

I had a Discovery 3 key stop on me about 18 months ago and finally have gotten around to doing something about it.

The key was stuffed so there was little risk in cracking it open to see if the battery or something simple was at fault.

I checked the battery on the multi-meter and it was still at ~3.2V after nearly two (2) years which was a positive surprise.

What I did notice was a lack of resistance from the lug attached to the circuit board as I lifted the battery up to make contact with the multi-meter so I held a patch lead in place and it started working again.

It is now soldered it in place and it works a treat. Just have to buy some superglue to put the fob back together.

Some pictures are included for your reference.

This has only just been done on the weekend so there could be other references you can investigate further to help you out.

Over to you and hope this helps.

Cheers PK

Redback
27th August 2013, 08:54 AM
Hi All,

So this ongoing issue I am having that started with my Key Fob not working has escalated to a pretty high point of frustration.

Issue 1: Key fob stopped working and car wouldn't lock/unlock or disable alarm or start.
Solution to issue 1: Bought new key from LR UK, had the key coded and matched, along with the original and the alarm disabled. $500, and 3 week wait.
*Both keys now work to unlock manually and start the car.

Issue 2: Still no alarm\central locking
Suggested solution: white green wire, check join under floor for 12v, yes present, also removed junction and re soldered join just to be sure.

Issue 3: Still no alarm/central locking
Suggestion solution: Purchase and replace alarm receiver unit in hood lining. So I did. $150

No result. The disco will still not lock or unlock via the key remotes, both the brand new and original one.

What else can be the problem, I have chased the wiring circuits all through the car, check voltages, checked all fuses??
And repeatedly banged my head against the brick wall.

Could it be a CJB issue? How do i check if it is?

I have read ever post on here and everywhere I can find any info

The car is usable, but only using the original key to manually unlock, then to re-lock I use the button on the dash and hold the door handle on the passenger side to close. Works but very inconvenient.

Sorry for constantly bringing this issue up, but I am really stumped.

Cheers,
Ben

Hi Ben, I'm not sure where in Sydney you are, but you might want to give this guy a call, Peter from Roving Mechanical 0410 503 500, he's a LR specialist in the southern Sydney area, if he can't get to you he may be able to give you some advice on what may be causing the issue or where to take it to have it looked at, oh and his hourly rate is very resonable, half that of a dealer.

Baz.

rb30gtr
27th August 2013, 08:57 AM
Thanks Richard,

I had a mechanic check the codes and it showed nothing, so from his experience his suggestion was to replace the alarm receiver.

I am also getting no activation of the alarm, or is that linked to the relationship between the door locks and receiver?

I am beginning to think the receiver I have tried is either not the right one or not working. As there is no earth connection on it and it seems the original was earthed to the roof via the bolt.

Have you done a receiver change?

Cheers,
Ben

sniegy
27th August 2013, 09:34 AM
I am not sure what has been done previously, but!

There are normally 2 stages to programming these keys (from a dealer point of view using SDD)(I am not sure how the Faultmate etc. works as I am not that familiar with them)

1st is to sync the keys to the vehicle especially when replacing a new key.
&
2nd is to program the keys to the vehicle.

It sounds like step 2 has been done but not step 1?

I would try reprogramming before taking the keys apart especially if you don't have too.

You also say that you disables the alarm in line 4, I can't understand why?

Cheers & good luck.

Sent from my iPad using Forum Runner

rb30gtr
27th August 2013, 10:02 AM
I am not sure what has been done previously, but!

There are normally 2 stages to programming these keys (from a dealer point of view using SDD)(I am not sure how the Faultmate etc. works as I am not that familiar with them)

1st is to sync the keys to the vehicle especially when replacing a new key.
&
2nd is to program the keys to the vehicle.

It sounds like step 2 has been done but not step 1?

I would try reprogramming before taking the keys apart especially if you don't have too.

You also say that you disables the alarm in line 4, I can't understand why?

Cheers & good luck.

Sent from my iPad using Forum Runner

Thanks Pete,

Keys are coded and programmed to the car, they send the signal to unlock the car but it wont unlock, or lock via the buttons on the FOB's.
Would a step be missing? I would assume the car would not start without the keys being programmed to the car?

Alarm was disabled by the mechanic so he could get in the car via the key manually and do the reprogramming process with the brand new key and original key. Also so I could manually enter the car and drive it.

I have already taken the original key apart and re soldered a new battery in, and it works perfectly fine to enter the car manually and start the car, and is charging and holding charge.

Geedublya
27th August 2013, 10:39 AM
Has the receiver in the roof lining got power?

This sounds like the problem I had with my D3 where there was a power problem to the receiver.

rb30gtr
27th August 2013, 10:49 AM
Hi Ben, I'm not sure where in Sydney you are, but you might want to give this guy a call, Peter from Roving Mechanical 0410 503 500, he's a LR specialist in the southern Sydney area, if he can't get to you he may be able to give you some advice on what may be causing the issue or where to take it to have it looked at, oh and his hourly rate is very resonable, half that of a dealer.

Baz.

Thanks Baz,
He actually was the guy I had inspect the car before purchase! Top bloke, but a little far away for me. I am in Western Sydney.

Next step is to drop the car off at Davis Performance, they have been great with all my questions and getting the Keys coded etc.

Cheers,
Ben

rb30gtr
27th August 2013, 10:53 AM
Has the receiver in the roof lining got power?

This sounds like the problem I had with my D3 where there was a power problem to the receiver.

Yep, sure is.

I even did the wire inspection/repair as mentioned on the Disco3UK site down in the floor beside the passenger seat.

I'll check it again after I have stuffed around the trying the new receiver and old

Cheers,
Ben

rb30gtr
27th August 2013, 10:54 AM
Ben,

I had a Discovery 3 key stop on me about 18 months ago and finally have gotten around to doing something about it.

The key was stuffed so there was little risk in cracking it open to see if the battery or something simple was at fault.

I checked the battery on the multi-meter and it was still at ~3.2V after nearly two (2) years which was a positive surprise.

What I did notice was a lack of resistance from the lug attached to the circuit board as I lifted the battery up to make contact with the multi-meter so I held a patch lead in place and it started working again.

It is now soldered it in place and it works a treat. Just have to buy some superglue to put the fob back together.

Some pictures are included for your reference.

This has only just been done on the weekend so there could be other references you can investigate further to help you out.

Over to you and hope this helps.

Cheers PK

Thanks PK,

Already been through the Key and Fob process, and have a brand new one from the Uk matched to my VIN and coded.
Both the new and my original are now working. - Working to manually open the car and start it. Both wont work to unlock or lock the central locking. but are sending the signal.

Cheers,
Ben

sniegy
27th August 2013, 02:54 PM
Thanks Pete,

Keys are coded and programmed to the car, they send the signal to unlock the car but it wont unlock, or lock via the buttons on the FOB's.
Would a step be missing? I would assume the car would not start without the keys being programmed to the car?

Alarm was disabled by the mechanic so he could get in the car via the key manually and do the reprogramming process with the brand new key and original key. Also so I could manually enter the car and drive it.

I have already taken the original key apart and re soldered a new battery in, and it works perfectly fine to enter the car manually and start the car, and is charging and holding charge.

You can program the keys to the vehicle & all will work except locking & unlocking.
I still think the "Synchronising" of the keys to the alarm step is missing.

The car now knows there are 2 keys & has dropped out the replaced 3rd key.
But if it is not sync'd to the alarm it will not lock/unlock the vehicle.

HTH Cheers

Sent from my iPad using Forum Runner

Narangga
10th October 2015, 09:26 PM
You can program the keys to the vehicle & all will work except locking & unlocking.
I still think the "Synchronising" of the keys to the alarm step is missing.

The car now knows there are 2 keys & has dropped out the replaced 3rd key.
But if it is not sync'd to the alarm it will not lock/unlock the vehicle.

HTH Cheers

Sent from my iPad using Forum Runner

I think that may be the issue with mine.

The day before I bought it the previous owner took it in to get two new tyres on at my request. However he didn't make it as the starter battery was flat. That was replaced, the tyres went on the on morning that I arrive and I took possession of the vehicle. Went to the shops to buy provisions for the trip home (Broome to Darwin) and it wouldn't lock with the fobs. Rang previous owner and he said they were fine when last used. Hhhmmmmm.

Took off for Fitzroy Crossing. Got there after dark and as the car park is under the motel rooms I didn't want to investigate too much in case I set off the alarm. The fob would not lock the vehicle but occasionally would unlock it. Intermittent response to the fob commands. Left it at that and continued on home.

Thinking it was flat batteries in the remotes I ordered a new fob and the previous owner also forwarded the one he ordered as one original was completely cactus. Eventually un-soldered and re-soldered and had new fob with new battery. Went to try with the vehicle and all I got was an intermittent response although after a few tries it would unlock every time. Went inside for two minutes came back out and the fob would no longer work. :censored:

Took vehicle in for service at dealer and got it back with an apology that TOPIX was offline and they could look at the remote fobs - rebooked 10 days later. :mad:

Dealer had it for a full day and the outcome was that they reprogrammed the remotes to the vehicle but they didn't work. Did the recommendations from the TOPIX advice and still didn't work.Tested remotes and both failed the test. Recommended two new fobs and coding at a price of $963.40 :eek2:

Much internet searching ensued...

Fuseable links? Negative

Fuse 43? Negative

Crook joint for the three wires? Negative

Started pulling the roof lining off but ended up giving up in frustration and disgust before I found the alarm receiver to check if it is getting power or has an earth issue.

The red alarm light on the dash flashes every 2 seconds to say that all is well with the system - it just won't talk regularly to the remotes and in particular lock the vehicle.

I will earnestly endeavour to obtain approval from the other half-owner of the vehicle tomorrow to expedite the purchase of a Nanocom to help in diagnosis of the issue.

One question I have is - How does one synchronize the fobs?

Any other thoughts or suggestions gratefully accepted...

letherm
10th October 2015, 10:27 PM
I will earnestly endeavour to obtain approval from the other half-owner of the vehicle tomorrow to expedite the purchase of a Nanocom to help in diagnosis of the issue.


I was curious as to whether you can program the key with a Nanocom - I bought one in the last group buy. I logged into the Nanocom forum and found mention of a Beta version for the D3 so I have asked whether it is available for the D4. They're offline at the moment. I'll report back with their answer.

Martin

rufusking
11th October 2015, 05:31 AM
I was curious as to whether you can program the key with a Nanocom - I bought one in the last group buy. I logged into the Nanocom forum and found mention of a Beta version for the D3 so I have asked whether it is available for the D4. They're offline at the moment. I'll report back with their answer.

Martin

Check back on the Nanocom forum. I haven't played with this function but it appears to be in the latest release (1.30).

Narangga
11th October 2015, 07:03 AM
I was curious as to whether you can program the key with a Nanocom - I bought one in the last group buy. I logged into the Nanocom forum and found mention of a Beta version for the D3 so I have asked whether it is available for the D4. They're offline at the moment. I'll report back with their answer.

Martin

My reading of their information leads me to believe it will.

carlschmid2002
11th October 2015, 07:34 AM
i can't help you but only sympathise. When I purchased my D3 the key was held together with sticky tape. I got two new keys as part of the deal. It was a LR dealer. One day I got keys synched by LR dealer in Townsville. Cost $80. Made Cairns dealer pay. The third key still works by the way.One day I was setting the lights on function on the key and it locked itself completely overnight. My manual key doesn't work. I went out in the morning and it opened first time. I was very scared to lock the car for some time after this. I now have a Nanocom and it does have a key function. I am very hesitant to play with it after my last experience. Other than breaking the window they are impossible to break into. I now consider my D3 to be alive. It has a mind of its own. Can be very frustrating.

Narangga
11th October 2015, 07:58 AM
Thanks Carl.

I waiver between thinking the fobs need syncing and an electrical issue in the vehicle (including even a faulty receiver). Being uncertain is worrying as you have said.

RHS58
11th October 2015, 08:32 AM
I now consider my D3 to be alive. It has a mind of its own. Can be very frustrating.

What do you expect They're all female......aren't they?

Oztourer
11th October 2015, 08:54 AM
I was curious as to whether you can program the key with a Nanocom - I bought one in the last group buy. I logged into the Nanocom forum and found mention of a Beta version for the D3 so I have asked whether it is available for the D4. They're offline at the moment. I'll report back with their answer.

Martin

I asked Black Box the same question the other day as I have a key fob with power that doesn't operate central locking. This is his response:

"The instructions for the D3 Key Learning are displayed on the Nanocom screen. You must proceed as the Nanocom instructs you.
The D3 Key Learning function is available in the Beta versions only.
Used keys might cannot be learned to the vehicle as the function supports only new keys, but maybe you can proceed with a re-synch of the already received keys.
Please note that the key learning function is not officially released so it may not perform as expected.

Kind regards,
Adrian"

I'm hoping to give it a try today. I note that the latest firmware for Nonocom (1.3) has D4 key learning feature (I have a D3).

Will let you know how I go.

kiwirich
11th October 2015, 09:58 AM
Hi Narangga

I've just looked up the IID Tool from Gap Diagnostics & Key programming is listed.
https://www.gap-diagnostic.com/products/iidtool/

Although it's still unclear exactly where the issue lies, you would get a great diagnostic tool at the same time. .....

Unless you've already got the Nanocom

Let us know how you get on.

Richard

Narangga
11th October 2015, 01:35 PM
I asked Black Box the same question the other day as I have a key fob with power that doesn't operate central locking. This is his response:

"The instructions for the D3 Key Learning are displayed on the Nanocom screen. You must proceed as the Nanocom instructs you.
The D3 Key Learning function is available in the Beta versions only.
Used keys might cannot be learned to the vehicle as the function supports only new keys, but maybe you can proceed with a re-synch of the already received keys.
Please note that the key learning function is not officially released so it may not perform as expected.

Kind regards,
Adrian"

I'm hoping to give it a try today. I note that the latest firmware for Nonocom (1.3) has D4 key learning feature (I have a D3).

Will let you know how I go.

Thanks. I wasn't sure from reading their info but thought it might.

Would be good to hear how you get on.

Narangga
11th October 2015, 01:40 PM
Hi Narangga

I've just looked up the IID Tool from Gap Diagnostics & Key programming is listed.
https://www.gap-diagnostic.com/products/iidtool/

Although it's still unclear exactly where the issue lies, you would get a great diagnostic tool at the same time. .....

Unless you've already got the Nanocom

Let us know how you get on.

Richard

Thanks Richard. I lent toward the Nanocom due to the experience many on the forum have had with them.

I'll let you know what transpires with my fob issue though.

letherm
11th October 2015, 04:46 PM
Check back on the Nanocom forum. I haven't played with this function but it appears to be in the latest release (1.30).

Rufusking replied to my query on the Nanocom forum and pointed me to the relevant instructions for the D4. From what I read, there are two actions available as shown below.

Key Learning Application Functions:

Function no.1: Read Key(s) Status
This function shows the number of keys that are currently learned to the Keyless Vehicle Module (KVM) and the
number of those keys currently present, for which you will need to place all available keys inside the vehicle. The
number of non present keys can be deduced by deducting the number of "present keys" from the "number of
programmed keys".

Function no.2: Add a new key
This function exclusively learns a brand new key to the Keyless Vehicle Module (KVM) adding it to those already
learned. It cannot learn previously learned or used keys.

HTH
Martin

Oztourer
12th October 2015, 09:40 PM
I gave the key learn function a go tonight on my D3 using a Nanocom. I have one fully working key and remote and a second key that the remote does not work but once I'm in the car will start the ignition. After contacting the guys at Black Box to get some pointers I tried re-learning the key with the inoperable remote. This is where it got interesting.

The key learning feature is in the Tools menu on the Nanocom. You are given several options: Learn New Key, Learn 1 Key, Learn 2 Keys ... up to 4 keys I think. As I only wanted to try and fix one of my keys I selected the Learn 1 Key option. I followed the prompts and all was well. On completion I removed the key to test, tried the remote but no joy with the central locking. I put the key in the ignition and it started :D so I figured I must have an issue on the PCB with the remote. No problem, I'll pull it apart some time to investigate. :confused::confused:

I did however encounter a problem when I went to use the original fully working key. No remote anymore and it wouldn't start the car!!! :eek::eek::eek:. Mild panic set in but then I thought - the Nanocom must have disabled it when I made the selection to learn only 1 key so I started again, this time selecting Learn 2 Keys. I needed to use the key with the broken remote to start the process off as this was the only one still coded to the car. Again, following the prompts, I put the second key in and everything programmed fine :D:D:D. I'm back to where I first started but at least I know the learning feature works. :)

Now to either fix the PCB or find a new replacement remote.

Narangga
13th October 2015, 06:53 AM
I gave the key learn function a go tonight on my D3 using a Nanocom. I have one fully working key and remote and a second key that the remote does not work but once I'm in the car will start the ignition. After contacting the guys at Black Box to get some pointers I tried re-learning the key with the inoperable remote. This is where it got interesting.

The key learning feature is in the Tools menu on the Nanocom. You are given several options: Learn New Key, Learn 1 Key, Learn 2 Keys ... up to 4 keys I think. As I only wanted to try and fix one of my keys I selected the Learn 1 Key option. I followed the prompts and all was well. On completion I removed the key to test, tried the remote but no joy with the central locking. I put the key in the ignition and it started :D so I figured I must have an issue on the PCB with the remote. No problem, I'll pull it apart some time to investigate. :confused::confused:

I did however encounter a problem when I went to use the original fully working key. No remote anymore and it wouldn't start the car!!! :eek::eek::eek:. Mild panic set in but then I thought - the Nanocom must have disabled it when I made the selection to learn only 1 key so I started again, this time selecting Learn 2 Keys. I needed to use the key with the broken remote to start the process off as this was the only one still coded to the car. Again, following the prompts, I put the second key in and everything programmed fine :D:D:D. I'm back to where I first started but at least I know the learning feature works. :)

Now to either fix the PCB or find a new replacement remote.

Thanks for the info Oztourer. Have you replaced the battery in the second remote?

Our issues vary in that both my remotes only operate intermittently and when they do will only unlock the vehicle - never lock it.

You were obviously able to program the key with the Nanocom, but my question still is - How does one synchronize the keys??? :confused:

One thing I did not mention previously is that when I push the button on the dash to lock the doors, all locks activate. Once I have then closed either of the front doors that I had opened to do that and then go to the drivers door, it opens by pulling on the handle. :censored: I gather this is due to the lock sequence the door found itself in when the starter battery was replaced and the remotes stopped functioning.

Either I find out how to sync the remotes or accessing the alarm receiver is the next step :(

Oztourer
15th October 2015, 07:31 PM
I've found my problem!!:):)
After not being able to get any response with my Nanocom trying to re-learn my non-functional fob remote, I took the plunge and cut it open (the button covers were ruined anyway so I had nothing to lose). There are several posts around describing how to open these fobs but I just took to it with a sharp Stanley knife, cutting through the join seam around the perimeter, taking care not to to cut too deep and also not to slip and cut myself!! Looking at the PCB under a magy-lamp I found a cracked solder joint on one of the battery terminals. A quick dab with the soldering iron and voi la - one resurrected fob remote!! This simple exercise has saved me several hundred dollars on a new replacement. :D:D

100638
Fob PCB removed showing location of cracked battery terminal joint.

100639
Zoomed in view of cracked joint.

100640
Another view of cracked joint

Opening the case destroyed it so I'll have to find a replacement on-line. Can anyone recommend a decent replacement case supplier?

Hope this helps someone in a similar predicament.

Cheers

Matt

carlschmid2002
15th October 2015, 07:43 PM
I have seen plenty of key cases on eBay.

Narangga
15th October 2015, 09:13 PM
Good to hear Oztourer. Indicates why only one was not working. I did buy a new case off eBay but that seller does not have any at the moment.

I also inherited another case with the vehicle which is obviously a genuine one (it has a Land Rover button) but the generic one I bought is of similar quality in all aspects - e.g. plastic, key, spring for the key etc.

Narangga
17th October 2015, 03:48 PM
Well despite numerous internet searches I was not able to find any instructions on how to sync fobs for a D3. Various other Land Rovers but not mine :mad:. Nothing on TOPIX either.

This morning the headlining came down and I was able to determine that the receiver is getting 12.0V from the plain green wire and 12.53V from the green & yellow wire. Voltage at the starter battery at the time was 12.77V.

I sat there for a couple of minutes and the voltage for either wire did not fluctuate but remained constant.

I cleaned the earth on the receiver and also the bolt head and put it back in place and still no remote locking - only the occasional unlock from the fob.

Monday I order a new receiver and if that does not fix the issue I'll go back to the dealer to order ONE fob, have them program it and then see what happens :(

IvanR
17th October 2015, 05:56 PM
Posted by Nanggaa;
The day before I bought it the previous owner took it in to get two new tyres on at my request. However he didn't make it as the starter battery was flat. That was replaced, the tyres went on the on morning that I arrive and I took possession of the vehicle. Went to the shops to buy provisions for the trip home (Broome to Darwin) and it wouldn't lock with the fobs.
After flatting my battery on a recent occasion I found that I was unable to lock/unlock the D3. After some thought I decided to try a hard reset and found it worked. The other evening while out to dinner received a message that the alarm was sounding and disturbing the neihbours. Had trouble stopping it, and had to insert key in ignition. When I took it out the car lock and unlocked itself rapidly and flashed indicator lights. Resolved by disconnecting the battery.
Found out later that van I was park next to was broken into stuff stolen so assume alarm was not false

Ivan

Narangga
18th October 2015, 08:16 PM
Posted by Nanggaa;
After flatting my battery on a recent occasion I found that I was unable to lock/unlock the D3. After some thought I decided to try a hard reset and found it worked. The other evening while out to dinner received a message that the alarm was sounding and disturbing the neihbours. Had trouble stopping it, and had to insert key in ignition. When I took it out the car lock and unlocked itself rapidly and flashed indicator lights. Resolved by disconnecting the battery.
Found out later that van I was park next to was broken into stuff stolen so assume alarm was not false

Ivan

Thanks Ivan. That is one that was only referenced in one post, in one thread that I read during my searches across the internet.

Unfortunately for me I tried it twice this afternoon with no effect so I will be ordering a new receiver tomorrow.

Thanks again.

Narangga
22nd October 2015, 07:26 PM
New receiver arrived today and after I put it in there is still only intermittent unlocking.

I will order one new fob tomorrow and see what happens after that arrives and is programmed to the vehicle. :(

Narangga
30th November 2015, 07:25 PM
Vehicle spent all day at the dealer's. Had to wait when I went to pick it up as it was 'almost finished'.

Key had arrived but did not match the vehicle despite VIN being correct.

I had left both existing keys and remotes with them and they took the key off one remote and swapped it with the new key from the new remote and the new one would not program to the vehicle.

A second new key is being ordered and we are down to one key until they fix our second and the new one arrives. :mad:

Narangga
11th January 2016, 08:44 PM
I received a call from the service department of the dealer on 18 Dec to say that after some trouble they had ordered the correct key for my VIN from the UK and it would be here early January.

Today I received another call to say that they were having real trouble getting LR UK to provide the correct key. He did not say and I did not ask but I believe a second new incorrect key had arrived. He did say that they had resorted to photographing the key alongside my existing key that they still have, and that they had emailed the photos to LRA in an effort to get some traction in resolving the issue with the UK.

He will ring me again once LRA and the UK have spoken about the issue. :confused: :confused: :confused:

carlschmid2002
11th January 2016, 10:09 PM
My D3 has done it again. Key fob not unlocking. It is stuck in an inner city car park in Brisbane at the hotel I am staying at. I will call RACQ tomorrow. If they can't open it I am going to break a window.

Narangga
12th January 2016, 07:35 AM
Key won't unlock the passenger's door?

carlschmid2002
12th January 2016, 11:52 AM
No. It's one of those things I have been meaning to fix

Narangga
12th January 2016, 01:35 PM
I thought the key in the passengers door was a mechanical thing.

Will it lock with the key?

And did you get the vehicle open?

carlschmid2002
12th January 2016, 02:06 PM
I am currently waiting for RACQ. The key feels like it will break if I turn it anymore. It moves a quarter turn in both directions.

Narangga
12th January 2016, 02:28 PM
Obviously an issue with it then as mine turns less than a quarter of a turn to both lock and unlock.

Hope you don't have to break glass to get in. :(

carlschmid2002
12th January 2016, 09:35 PM
RACQ guy managed to get bonnet open. He disconnected the battery as the alarm went off and key fob would do nothing. We reconnected the battery a few times and no luck with the fob. Battery is new and fully charged. He had been working on it for over an hour and I have to move it as I move in to my new house tomorrow and check out of hotel so i said break the rear right window. He had to make a few hits. I told him they are tough. Before he climbed in the window he reconnected the battery and alarm went off again, he pressed the fob and it worked. Car unlocked. Breaking the window was unnecessary after all that. Perhaps just having the battery disconnected for a few minutes did the trick. The fob is not working again. I have removed everything from the car and left it unlocked. The spare key is in my removal. Anyone know where I can get a cheap rear right door window? I swear that car is possessed sometimes. It gives me great joy at all other times. My other car arrives tomorrow so nothing is urgent.

Narangga
13th January 2016, 07:46 AM
Same as mine - battery replaced and fobs only unlocked intermittently and then stopped working. However disconnection of the battery would usually bring them back to life for a day or so - but would still not lock the vehicle. Fortunately (for me) the key would still lock it - once I replaced the driver's door lock mechanism.

Narangga
28th January 2016, 11:47 AM
Update from 11 Jan:

Service Manager rang and apologised for the delay as he had been away at his father's funeral.

Said that LR are adamant that their key is correct for the VIN. Key does not match vehicle!

I am helping the dealer backtrack vehicle history to find out if there was a change of lock and ignition barrel etc. at some stage that did not get recorded against the VIN. :confused:

Narangga
28th January 2016, 08:07 PM
I bought it off the second owner. He didn't have the keys, locks or ignition barrel changed in the time he had it. Told me who he bought it off (Independent Specialist in Vic) and so the dealer rang them. They had no record of a key change.

Tonight I have photocopied the delivery record and service records and will drop that into the service manager tomorrow so he can chase up the delivering dealer.

Will be interesting to find out what the reason for the wrong key code for the VIN is. :confused:

Has anyone ever heard of that happening - particularly with a Land Rover?

Narangga
5th March 2016, 07:57 AM
I had not heard anything from the dealer for over four weeks so made contact yesterday asking what was happening.

I was rung back to be told that the vehicle had left the factory and been delivered in Australia with a 315MHz remote system. At some time the whole locking system (barrel, door lock & remotes) have been changed and it now has a 433MHz system that has not been recorded in TOPIX. Hence there is no record of the change and so there way of knowing what has been put in and no way of ordering a key that will match the current locking system.

I was offered two options.

Option 1. Order a complete new 433MHZ system (ignition barrel, door lock, 2 matching keys and remotes) and have that installed. Total Cost $2180.

Option 2. The dealer could order a 315MHZ key and remote and and they try and get it to work with the vehicle - no guarantees. Cost $580.


In an earlier post I mentioned I had changed the receiver in the vehicle. This I ordered from a dealer interstate (who I usually order parts from). I order the receiver having given my VIN and a 433MHz receiver was sent. When I placed this in the vehicle the remotes would occasionally 'unlock' the vehicle - lights flashed etc. as happened with the original receiver. To me this says two things - yes I do currently have a 433MHZ system AND that it was 433 when it was built. Maybe I'm wrong on the second thing but I think not.

Hence I was amazed that they told me what Option 2 was!

So what do we do? We have chosen Option 3.

Option 3. I will retrieve the second key and remote from the dealer on Monday and we will continue to lock and unlock the vehicle manually.

At least we'll have two keys again - the other has been with the dealer for the past 3 months.

Like others, I am waiting for Nanocom to release either their Beta or next full release firmware which should allow me to learn new keys to the vehicle. I'll give this a try, unless my trip to Alice Springs in October comes first, in which case I might chat to the dealer there about it.

On another note, the rear wheel bearings were replaced yesterday so it can be driven as it should be again :p

DiscoMick
5th March 2016, 08:16 AM
So does locking it with the key mean the alarm or immobiliser don't work?

Sent from my GT-P5210 using AULRO mobile app

Narangga
5th March 2016, 08:52 AM
So does locking it with the key mean the alarm or immobiliser don't work?

Sent from my GT-P5210 using AULRO mobile app

5 Seconds after the key is removed from the ignition the engine is immobilised.

The indicator on the instrument cluster tells me "the alarm is disarmed but the vehicle is immobilised (key out of starter switch)".

Narangga
11th March 2016, 10:00 PM
I ended up being too busy and frustrated to take a photo of the key that had been at the dealers for the last 3 months which I picked up yesterday, but I spent this afternoon putting the key back together in one piece with its remote.

To try and get the (incorrect) new key that had been ordered to work, they had removed the pin in the key blade assembly (see new blank below) of my existing key.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/03/587.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/EchcFg)

Because the fob attached to it was new with a new battery installed, I had not glued it together when I gave it to them 3 months ago. Hence it was returned to me without the pin and sticky taped together. :wallbash:

Today I inserted a small piece of wire as a temporary pin and glued the case together. The key opened the passenger side door, turned the ignition but would not start the vehicle.

I then updated the firmware on the Nanocom with the Beta that was kindly emailed to me earlier in the week. I was then able to 'relearn 2 keys' and both keys are now usable. :)

I took the vehicle for a drive and got the 'Low Key Battery' alert in the message centre when I got home. Went for another drive and still had the same message when I got home. However... using the remote - the vehicle would occasionally lock! :eek: It would also unlock via the remote.

We decided a trip to the Darwin wharf for dinner was needed (where the vehicle was locked manually) and after returning home the key battery message did not appear. Upon using the remote to lock the vehicle some weird things happened. Sometimes it would lock as soon as the remote lock button was pushed. Sometimes it would unlock when the remote lock button was pushed. Sometimes pushing the remote lock button would be done 6 times in a row and each time the vehicle would unlock. Next try and it would lock! :confused: :confused: :confused:

Looking for an upside - at least I have finally got it to lock - even if ever so intermittently! :mad: And we also now have two functioning keys so that we can lock the vehicle manually and (hopefully) not have to worry about locking the only key inside...

More investigation tomorrow me thinks...:(

carlschmid2002
12th March 2016, 01:50 PM
I have decided that these cars are possessed.

Narangga
12th March 2016, 02:14 PM
I have decided that these cars are possessed.

:p

After a trip to the dump to get some mulch this morning I tried locking and unlocking with the remote. Same irregularities. :confused: Sometime locks, sometimes doesn't unlock. Sometimes seems to unlock when you press lock...

Finished spreading the mulch and headed down to the shops to get paper and my Saturday morning constitutional Paul's Iced Coffee and when I turned off the ignition and pulled out the key I got the - doors unlock and the message centre displays the key remote low battery message... This is with the remote that has the new battery and case. The remote with the older case and older battery does not give any result when a button on hte remote is pushed.

So I think I will replace the case and battery in the 'old' remote. Once I have remotes with 2 new batteries I will re-learn the keys and find outr what happens. Here's hoping... :(

So - I think my next step is to get

Narangga
5th April 2016, 08:25 PM
YES! :banana: :banana: :banana:

I now have two working remotes :ehigh5: :arms: :thumbsup:

Summary of the last 7 months and 3 days is:

Starter battery replaced and remotes not working. FOB 1 in good condition and had been in daily use. FOB 2 falling apart.

Eventually replace drivers door lock and actuator so can lock manually.

Check wiring loom for the 3 wire join. All OK. Replaced receiver unit in headliner. No change.

Replaced FOB 2 case and battery.

Dealer unable to program remotes to operate. Order new key from LR. Does not match vehicle. Keep FOB 2 (and it's key to check against next new key).

Eventually dealer says unable to match keys in use with LR records. Current fobs 433 MHz - vehicle left factory with 315 MHz system. Options either - buy new locks, keys and reprogram for $2,100 or buy 433 MHz key and fob and try and program it.

Chose option 3 - use Nanocom with Beta software to try myself. Did that and FOB 2 worked intermittently but continually showed Low Battery message on dash. Realised battery was dead after sitting at dealers for 3 months.

Retrieved new battery and fob case from who person I had loaned it to and replaced these on FOB 1. Programmed with Nanocom and success! The old battery tested at 3.0V but would not communicate with the vehicle at all.

Bought two new batteries ($40) and a new fob case ($17) and then managed to drop solder on a capacitor getting the old battery off the PCB of FOB 2. :wallbash: :bangin:

Ordered new complete key blank, fob and transponder (PCB ) at 433 MHZ (FOB 3 - $130), relearn 2 keys with Nanocom and :arms::arms::arms: SUCCESS! We now have two fully functioning remotes. :clap2: :clap2: :clap2:

And that, boys and girls, is the end of my story. But remember the moral of the story - fob batteries can cease to function even though they appear to hold charge...

carlschmid2002
6th April 2016, 08:49 PM
YES! :banana: :banana: :banana:

I now have two working remotes :ehigh5: :arms: :thumbsup:

Summary of the last 7 months and 3 days is:

Starter battery replaced and remotes not working. FOB 1 in good condition and had been in daily use. FOB 2 falling apart.

Eventually replace drivers door lock and actuator so can lock manually.

Check wiring loom for the 3 wire join. All OK. Replaced receiver unit in headliner. No change.

Replaced FOB 2 case and battery.


Dealer unable to program remotes to operate. Order new key from LR. Does not match vehicle. Keep FOB 2 (and it's key to check against next new key).

Eventually dealer says unable to match keys in use with LR records. Current fobs 433 MHz - vehicle left factory with 315 MHz system. Options either - buy new locks, keys and reprogram for $2,100 or buy 433 MHz key and fob and try and program it.

Chose option 3 - use Nanocom with Beta software to try myself. Did that and FOB 2 worked intermittently but continually showed Low Battery message on dash. Realised battery was dead after sitting at dealers for 3 months.

Retrieved new battery and fob case from who person I had loaned it to and replaced these on FOB 1. Programmed with Nanocom and success! The old battery tested at 3.0V but would not communicate with the vehicle at all.

Bought two new batteries ($40) and a new fob case ($17) and then managed to drop solder on a capacitor getting the old battery off the PCB of FOB 2. :wallbash: :bangin:

Ordered new complete key blank, fob and transponder (PCB ) at 433 MHZ (FOB 3 - $130), relearn 2 keys with Nanocom and :arms::arms::arms: SUCCESS! We now have two fully functioning remotes. :clap2: :clap2: :clap2:

And that, boys and girls, is the end of my story. But remember the moral of the story - fob batteries can cease to function even though they appear to hold charge...
I hope that is the end of your story. I cooked an alternator today. End result, flat battery and locked out again. Got in by opening bonnet and charging battery. I now need a new alternator.

Oztourer
7th April 2016, 03:54 AM
Well done with the perseverance Dale. Many people would have given up by now. Maybe you should go into business repairing remote locking systems!!

Narangga
7th April 2016, 06:46 AM
I hope that is the end of your story. I cooked an alternator today. End result, flat battery and locked out again. Got in by opening bonnet and charging battery. I now need a new alternator.

:Thump: Hope that you can get that sorted soon. More expensive than mine but more of a hassle as at least mine was usable for the past 7 months.

Thankfully you were able to get the bonnet open. Time for a new lock actuator on the passenger's door?

Narangga
7th April 2016, 06:47 AM
Maybe you should go into business repairing remote locking systems!!

:no2:


Unless you do the soldering for me...

carlschmid2002
7th April 2016, 07:00 PM
:Thump: Hope that you can get that sorted soon. More expensive than mine but more of a hassle as at least mine was usable for the past 7 months.

Thankfully you were able to get the bonnet open. Time for a new lock actuator on the passenger's door?

It is. I just fixed the handbrake, back door latch and fitted some new tyres. Passenger door was the next job. Now it is the alternator.

Narangga
7th April 2016, 08:23 PM
It is. I just fixed the handbrake, back door latch and fitted some new tyres. Passenger door was the next job. Now it is the alternator.

Bugger. Obviously the troubles didn't stop at three :(

Narangga
8th April 2016, 06:56 PM
Well there's no pleasing some people...

Today I get told that the remote isn't working properly. Locks every time but unlock only works sometimes.

Remote in hand I go and check to find that one push of unlock button unlocks drivers door only and a second push releases all of the rest.

3 seconds later and it's all fixed so that one push of the unlock button unlocks all and every door and she loves me again. :p

Disco-tastic
8th April 2016, 08:37 PM
Congrats! Im glad you got it working.

Cheers

Dan

Narangga
26th January 2017, 08:21 AM
Late last year the original fob again started operating only intermittently. Usually it would lock the vehicle after exiting and would not open it immediately afterwards. I decided as I had already soldered a new battery on it and had managed to kill one other PCB when soldering that I would order a new PCB to replace this older one. With the busyness of the end of the year it didn't get here before I left on holidays and I didn't have the time when I got back in early January so I only put it into service on Monday evening.

HOWEVER... the new PCB in the second remote stopped transmitting altogether last week. :censored: I had a spare case so last night I changed the battery in that. When I opened the case (buying that Dremel was a stroke of genius :D) I found that the battery +ve pin had snapped - due in part as the the battery was not in a holder. :o :mad: At least I know now.

Surprisingly I tried using the remote to open the vehicle so that I could re-learn the keys with the Nanaocom and it actually worked. :cool: