Loctite Sleeve Retainer 640 - axle shafts into hubs

[twr7cx]

Anyone been able to source Loctite 640 Sleeve Retainer < Loctite® Sleeve Retainer 640 (http://www.henkelna.com/product-search-1554.htm?nodeid=8797924524033) > as required by Rave for the axle shaft splines into the hubs?

I've been around to the automotive stores and bearing shops here and it seems that 1. no one stocks 640, and 2. that it's not even available anymore as it's not in any of the Loctite catalogues we have looked through.

The closest I have found is Loctite 680 < Loctite ® 680 (http://www.loctite.com.au/3423_AUS_HTML.htm?countryCode=aue&BU=industrial&parentredDotUID=productfinder&redDotUID=10000009RHO) >, which seems to be much of the same but with a much quicker dry time (24 hours vs 72 hours) and cure time of (20 minutes vs slow cure).


EDIT: just spoke to JC who has advised not to use the Loctite but rather just an antiseize to stop the rust and corrosion. Apparently they have had a few hubs that they have been unable to separate from the axle because of it and ended up having to throw the whole lot away and replace.

I note that the Loctite 640 / 680 are High Strength compounds. I wonder if a low or medium strength would be better then.

[Vern]

I wouldn't bother personally.

[rangieman]

Jc is the man what he does,nt know is not woth knowing;)

[justinc]

Jc is the man what he does,nt know is not woth knowing;)

:o, like being able to count the correct number of doors on a car....?:(, sorry about that one chris...:(

jc

[OffTrack]

The final version of RAVE on CD which everyone refers to has obsolete information about sealants and lockers.

For hub to driveshaft use the current LR specification is part STC50554. STC50554 is Loctite 648.

cheers
Paul

Add: disassembly requires heating the part to 250degC and separating while hot.

[schuy1]

For a minute there I thought the added bit said "disassembly requires beating the part..........." :o Then my eyes became focused..............:D :D

[OffTrack]

For a minute there I thought the added bit said "disassembly requires beating the part..........." :o Then my eyes became focused..............:D :D

I'd recommend application of a hot flame to the part in question. That will do more than cause your eyes to become unfocused. :p

[simonmelb]

Hi all,

About to replace a rear hub:

==> Whats the consensus - Loctite or an anti-seize compound for the shaft spline to hub joint ?

See other posts here also - LR says Loctite and JC says anti seize - I'm going with JC unless anyone has a good reason not to ! ?

Thanks !
Simon

[rick130]

What JC said!

You'll thank him if/when you ever need to do it again.

[rick130]

All we are trying to do is stop corrosion 'welding' the bloody things together!

[gavinwibrow]

Hi all,

About to replace a rear hub:

==> Whats the consensus - Loctite or an anti-seize compound for the shaft spline to hub joint ?

See other posts here also - LR says Loctite and JC says anti seize - I'm going with JC unless anyone has a good reason not to ! ?

Thanks !
Simon


Have never heard of anyone with a GOOD reason not to go with JC.

[simonmelb]

Thanks Rick and Gavin,

That was my reasoning too!

Any particular anti seize better?

I was planning on using a Nickel type eg Permatex Nikel Anti Seize. Or is a copper based better?

Cheers
Simon


Have never heard of anyone with a GOOD reason not to go with JC.

[rick130]

I'd just use what you have to hand, in my case it's a Loctite nickel based one.
Nickel or copper is more to do with the metals involved and in theory I'm guessing copper would be the go between steel and cast iron, but either would be fine.
In future remember definitely nickel if aluminium was involved.