D4 Rocksliders/steps

[captcam68]

Thanks everyone for the rear ladder info. Next question, has anyone fitted the terrafirma sliders/steps to a D4 and if they have what do you think?

[stray dingo]

sorry, can't comment on the TerraFirmas, but also compare to GOEs (Gordon) ones
Green Oval Experience Land Rover 4WD, Range Rover off-road Australia (http://www.greenovalexperience.com/#!protection-plates/c1t9f)

[AnD3rew]

I have the Terrafirma ones on my D3. They are very solidly built, not sure how much further out the stand off bars are on other brands, but I expected them to sit out a little further than they do. The other thing is that if you have rear air they need some significant modification to fit on as the inner lip will foul the pipes. I put some non slip tape on mine to make them more user friendly as steps for the wife and kids getting in and out.

[4evershiva]

hi guys, have just ordered the front bash plate and the rock sliders from GOE for my D3. Could one you provide any fitting instructions if you have already installed these.

[Tombie]

How much are the Terrafirma units?

[RHS58]

I've been quoted "about $1600" not so long ago

[Tombie]

I've been quoted "about $1600" not so long ago


Then I suggest you have a word to Ben at APT and save about $600.00

[BWV007]

I was also quoted between $1600 and $2000 for the Terrafirma sliders locally, plus fitting. I decided to import the Britpart DA7533 sliders from the UK. I fitted mine 2 weeks ago, very easy fit with no cutting or trimming required. A trolley jack makes the job so simple. Just as good, but cost only $1070 delivered.

I used these guys; the sliders arrived in a week.

DA7533 - Rock Silder Sill Protection for Discovery 3 and 4 | LR Parts (http://www.lrparts.net/rock-silder-and-side-step-with-guard-for-discovery-3-and-4.html)

Solid as a rock. I'm very happy with them.

Cheers
Barry

[Tombie]

Where competitive please buy Australian!!!!

[~Rich~]

Yes please support Aussie businesses when you can.

LLAMS - A great Aussie invention by Graeme. NSW
Brads Sliders. QLD
GOE Protection Plates and Sliders / Suspension Rods & Driver Training. WA

[4evershiva]

Yes please support Aussie businesses when you can.

LLAMS - A great Aussie invention by Graeme. NSW
Brads Sliders. QLD
GOE Protection Plates and Sliders / Suspension Rods & Driver Training. WA

That's exactly what I did. ordered mine from GOE. $400 for the bash plate and $600 for the rock sliders. Hope they r strong and up for the job.

[Redback]

That's exactly what I did. ordered mine from GOE. $400 for the bash plate and $600 for the rock sliders. Hope they r strong and up for the job.

I have Brads sliders(Disco3QLD) trust me they are up to the job, extremely happy with them, great product and at $650 a brilliant price.

Baz.

[4evershiva]

Ohh...dint know there was QLD dealer for sliders.....and guys if anyone has had GOE sliders, is the install easy or does it require any trimming work.

[Redback]

Ohh...dint know there was QLD dealer for sliders.....and guys if anyone has had GOE sliders, is the install easy or does it require any trimming work.

Yep easy, just like all the others are, they all mount the same way.

Count how many hole there are in the sliders, then pull out the same amount of yellow clips to match:D

Oh and they are underneath as well, leave the black gromits there.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/07/1121.jpg

There is a capture nut behind them.

Baz.

[gghaggis]

Ohh...dint know there was QLD dealer for sliders.....and guys if anyone has had GOE sliders, is the install easy or does it require any trimming work.

Hi,

There's no trimming of anything required for the GOE sliders, and they work with front and rear mud flaps. You'll get fitting instructions (and bolts) with them.

Cheers,

Gordon

[4evershiva]

Hi,

There's no trimming of anything required for the GOE sliders, and they work with front and rear mud flaps. You'll get fitting instructions (and bolts) with them.

Cheers,

Gordon


Thanks a lot Gordon. Can't wait to put them on. Will be ordering more of the protection plates, maybe early next year.

[Tombie]

Yep easy, just like all the others are, they all mount the same way.

Count how many hole there are in the sliders, then pull out the same amount of yellow clips to match:D

Oh and they are underneath as well, leave the black gromits there.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/07/1121.jpg

There is a capture nut behind them.

Baz.


No they aren't :)

I just put my APT sliders on tonight...

The captive nuts are behind black stickers.. :)

[RHS58]

No they aren't :)

I just put my APT sliders on tonight...

The captive nuts are behind black stickers.. :)

They're not officially on until we see a picture!

[Tombie]

They're not officially on until we see a picture!


Okey dokey

Note it was still light - pre 1730

79891

[LandyAndy]

Call that a slider:p:p:p:p:p:p:p
Where is all the checker plate:p:p:p:p:p:p
























They do look nice:cool::cool::cool::cool::cool:
Andrew

[Bytemrk]

As Tombie pointed out... the mounting nuts are NOT behind those grommets, they are behind black stickers.

There are 5 on the side and a further 6 underneath.

Easy job.... easier with a mate to hold one end though ;)

[Tombie]

Easy job.... easier with a mate to hold one end though ;)


Did mine and you'll love this...

LLAMS on Low, car set to low, 2 10L oil drums on their sides....

[Bytemrk]

Did mine and you'll love this...

LLAMS on Low, car set to low, 2 10L oil drums on their sides....

I think I like you system Tombie.....

Don't have to share the beers afterwards that way :angel: :p

[RHS58]

Okey dokey

Note it was still light - pre 1730

79891

Looks good.
On my short list.
ATP VS GOE vs Brads.

Tombie, it looks like your ATP's allow one to keep the OE front mudflaps?
Very similar to GOE.

Cheers
Ron

[Tombie]

Yes... Front mudflaps would still be ok, I haven't had them fitted.. As evidenced by the chipping of the leading edge of the rear flares.

[jon3950]

Yes... Front mudflaps would still be ok, I haven't had them fitted.. As evidenced by the chipping of the leading edge of the rear flares.

Front mudflaps don't help with the chipping. Unfortunately I've learnt that one the hard way.

Cheers,
Jon

[BMKal]

Front mudflaps don't help with the chipping. Unfortunately I've learnt that one the hard way.

Cheers,
Jon

Yep ...................... I'll second that. ;)

[scarry]

Front mudflaps don't help with the chipping. Unfortunately I've learnt that one the hard way.

Cheers,
Jon

Strange,i have OEM front mud flaps, very little chipping.

I have done a lot of rocky high speed roads,my tyres are very badly chipped,they should actually be replaced.
I have even had to repaint and re tectyl the rear chassis rails,under the car, and the bottom front lip of the rear bumper is also very badly chipped,but the rear flares are fine.

The only thing i can think of is my tyres are 245 so probably a bit thinner than what you guys are running.

[gghaggis]

Looks good.
On my short list.
ATP VS GOE vs Brads.

Tombie, it looks like your ATP's allow one to keep the OE front mudflaps?
Very similar to GOE.

Cheers
Ron

Well, if you're fitting by yourself, mine are alloy, so a lot lighter :D

Cheers,

Gordon

[Fred Nerk]

I have to reiterate Gordon's comment. To install the GOE sliders, hold in place with one hand while screwing in the bolt with the other. And there is no interference with the mud flaps.

[oldsalt]

Or you could do it this way... :)
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=79999&stc=1&d=1404633583

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=80000&stc=1&d=1404633672

[Tombie]

Good method, but then I'd have to get the jack :)

Lifting by hand just proves my gym membership is paying off :)

[4evershiva]

Do we get any confirmation email regarding the order placed or tracking number once the part has been dispatched from GOE? So far I have just received an email from paypal saying that I have paid but no intimation from GOE.

[Redback]

No they aren't :)

I just put my APT sliders on tonight...

The captive nuts are behind black stickers.. :)

Sorry my mistake, they have to come anyway though.

Baz.

[discotwinturbo]

Do we get any confirmation email regarding the order placed or tracking number once the part has been dispatched from GOE? So far I have just received an email from paypal saying that I have paid but no intimation from GOE.

I would think it would best to contact GOE.....the forum is unlikely to help with where your order is at.

Gordon will not bight.

Brett....

[handbrake]

looking at getting brads so need to post to message!

[eddomak]

Trying to fit mine (Brad's version) tonight....

So:
1) Do I need to remove the yellow clips so that the sliders can sit close to the car body?
2) Do I need to remove the grommets so that the sliders can sit close to the car body?
3) Does the front plastic guard need to be trimmed? Or can the slider sit behind it?

Thanks!

[Bytemrk]

1) Do I need to remove the yellow clips so that the sliders can sit close to the car body? - Yes
2) Do I need to remove the grommets so that the sliders can sit close to the car body? - No
3) Does the front plastic guard need to be trimmed? Or can the slider sit behind it? - Yes i believe it needs trimming

[eddomak]

1) Do I need to remove the yellow clips so that the sliders can sit close to the car body? - Yes
2) Do I need to remove the grommets so that the sliders can sit close to the car body? - No
3) Does the front plastic guard need to be trimmed? Or can the slider sit behind it? - Yes i believe it needs trimming

Thanks! I've just done one side after finding these instructions on the web of a set that fits the same way.

http://www.expeditioncentre.com.au/product-attachments/rock-tree-slider-fitting.pdf
(http://www.expeditioncentre.com.au/product-attachments/rock-tree-slider-fitting.pdf)
I found that those yellow plastic clips sure hold on tight, and decided to try my luck with leaving some in there where the only the "nipple" had snapped. Didn't seem to affect fit. I might go back for them on the weekend though.

I found that I did need to trim that black plastic front guard next to the front arch on the lower side of the "crease" that is the natural line. I used a Dremel with a plastic cutting disc, but if it was scored well with a box cutter then this would also probably work.

Thanks again. Now to the 2nd side tomorrow night. :D

[Redback]

I noticed in those instructions, the factory draft seals are removed and replaced with their seals, with Brads sliders, there's no need to remove the draft seals on the bottom of the doors, my factory seals are still there.

Baz.

[eddomak]

Brad got back to me this morning, and I have volunteered to take some photos and do up a little PDF installation instruction. I will also do a post here so that it might help anyone in the future who needs it. Stay tuned!

[Tombie]

Easy once you know how :D

[eddomak]

OK, since I don't know when I will be able to get around to doing the passenger side and taking the photos at that time, here are the instructions for fitting Brad's Rock Sliders.

I will update the post later with the photos once they've been taken. Meanwhile, refer to the photos earlier in this thread and particularly the link to the PDF I posted earlier.



Tools Required:


1x #2 Phillips head screwdriver - ideally with a right angle attachment
1x pliers
1x 5mm allen key


Optional: 1 trolley jack & piece of wood, or one helping hand


Total time: 30-45mins per side

Hint: You may find that leaving the car in a higher height (ie Normal of Off-Road) will make it easier to access. The trade off is that you then need to lift the bar higher and support it whilst mounting.)


1) Identify which side the slider is for
- the cutout goes towards the front of the vehicle

2) Remove factory plastic sill guard (5 mins)


Open both front and rear doors
Remove 2 screws in rear wheel arch area
Remove screw in front plastic sill guard, just under the wheel arch
Remove the 7 black trim clips from the underside of the sill (see close up) by prising out the top cap and centre spline, then pull directly down.
Starting at the rear, pull factory sill out, directly towards you popping it free of the holders, then towards the rear of the car. (Hint: It does not matter if you break the little plastic parts as they will be removed & discarded later on anyway).
Optional: Remove & keep front plastic sill guard (you may find it easier to do this by releasing the lower portion of the wheel arch) - You will need this piece later!.


3) Trim front plastic sill guard (5-10 mins)
(NOTE: This guide is for the full length sliders from Mefit Industries. Some other brands or variations may not need this step performed!)

Note: You may be able to do this trimming with the part in-situ (ie still on the car)
Mark the link that you will trim - just below the moulded crease
Hint: Remember you can always be conservative and cut less now, and more later if you need to
Cut away lower portion using a Dremel or score deeply with a utility knife
Clean edges with a knife, file, or sandpaper
Re-affix front plastic trim by clicking into place




4) Prepare for door sill for mounting (10-20mins)


Remove all the 9 yellow plastic clips that were used to hold the original sill in place. I have used pliers and given it a good twist and yank. (see close up)
Carefully remove the 5 black plastic circle stickers that cover the threaded holes, you may want to re-use these in the next step
Optional: you can stick these over the holes where the yellow plastic clips had been, but these may show if you do not keep them low enough


5) Mount the slider to the car (5-10 mins)


Lift the slider into place (a helper or trolley jack is useful), lining up the holes
Fix the side screws in first, using a washer, and do not fully tighten
Fix all the underside screws in using a washer, and fully tighten
Tighten all screws (underside and side)

6) Enjoy a beverage of your choice :beer:

7) Repeat Steps 1-6 for other side of vehicle

8) Congratulate yourself, take some photos, and post it to AULRO forum (otherwise it never happened). :cool:

[aus86inch]

Thanks eddomak for the blow by blow account
my sliders will arrive this friday and will be installing on saturday
i will try out your procedure LOL

[eddomak]

Here are the illustrated instructions for fitting Brad's Rock Sliders.

Tools Required:


1x #2 Phillips head screwdriver - ideally with a right angle attachment
1x pliers
1x 5mm allen key


Optional: 1 trolley jack & piece of wood, or one helping hand


Total time: 30-45mins per side

Hint: You may find that leaving the car in a higher height (ie Normal of Off-Road) will make it easier to access. The trade off is that you then need to lift the bar higher and support it whilst mounting.)


1) Identify which side the slider is for
- the cutout goes towards the front of the vehicle

2) Remove factory plastic sill guard (5 mins)


Open both front and rear doors
Remove 2 screws in rear wheel arch area
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/members/eddomak-albums-rock+slider+installation-picture4945-rear-screws.jpg
Remove the 7 black trim clips from the underside of the sill (see close up) by prising out the top cap and centre spline, then pull directly down. Remove trim clip entirely.
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/members/eddomak-albums-rock+slider+installation-picture4946-plastic-sill-underside-trim.jpg
Close up of the trim clip, fully removed...
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/members/eddomak-albums-rock+slider+installation-picture4947-underside-trim-clip-close-up.jpg
Ensure the factory sill underside is fully free of the body by pulling it down towards the ground.
Starting at the rear, pull factory sill out, directly towards you popping it free of the holders, then towards the rear of the car. (Hint: It does not matter if you break the little plastic parts as they will be removed & discarded later on anyway).


3) Trim front plastic sill guard (5-10 mins)
(NOTE: This guide is for the full length sliders from Mefit Industries. Some other brands or variations may not need this step performed!)

Note: You may be able to do this trimming with the part in-situ (ie still on the car, but the instructions below assume you remove it
Remove & keep front plastic sill guard by removing screw at the side, and pulling directly towards you. There are trim clips at the top of the piece you need to "pop" (you may find it easier to do this by releasing the lower portion of the wheel arch as illustrated in the next picture) - You will need this piece later!.
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/members/eddomak-albums-rock+slider+installation-picture4948-front-wheel-arch-trim-clip.jpg
Mark the link that you will trim - just below the moulded crease and in a direct line with the rest of the lower door trim
Hint: Remember you can always be conservative and cut less now, and more later if you need to
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/members/eddomak-albums-rock+slider+installation-picture4949-trim-plastic-guard.jpg

Cut away lower portion using a Dremel or score deeply with a utility knife
Clean edges with a knife, file, or sandpaper




4) Prepare for door sill for mounting (10-20mins)


Remove all the 9 yellow plastic clips that were used to hold the original sill in place. I have used pliers and given it a good twist and yank. (see close up). (Hint: You may find it easier to drill out the core then remove anything that remains)
The enemy! http://www.aulro.com/afvb/members/eddomak-albums-rock+slider+installation-picture4951-yellow-trim-clip.jpg
Carefully remove the 5 black plastic circle stickers that cover the threaded holes, you may want to re-use these in the next step
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/members/eddomak-albums-rock+slider+installation-picture4950-sill-preparation.jpg
Optional: you can stick these over the holes where the yellow plastic clips had been, but these may show if you do not keep them low enough


5) Mount the slider to the car (5-10 mins)


Lift the slider into place (a helper or trolley jack is useful), lining up the holes
Fix the side screws in first, using a washer, and do not fully tighten
Fix all the underside screws in using a washer, and fully tighten
Tighten all screws (underside and side)
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/members/eddomak-albums-rock+slider+installation-picture4952-installed.jpg
Re-affix front plastic trim by clicking into place
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/members/eddomak-albums-rock+slider+installation-picture4953-front-trim-installed.jpg
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/members/eddomak-albums-rock+slider+installation-picture4954-fully-installed.jpg

6) Enjoy a beverage of your choice :beer:

7) Repeat Steps 1-6 for other side of vehicle

8) Congratulate yourself, take some photos, and post it to AULRO forum (otherwise it never happened). :cool:


(Sorry, couldn't edit the previous post for some reason. Moderators - please feel free to delete earlier non-illustrated version.)

[tiddy]

Fantastic post Edd, great instructions and pics, very easy to follow, thank you.

[aus86inch]

Just printed your instructions Edd, will let you know how great they are tomorrow with an updated time taken:D

[LandyAndy]

Thanks for that.
Dont they look great!!!!!
I enjoyed making a set for the D2.
Andrew

[Tombie]

Sliders on a D4 look fantastic.

[aus86inch]

Sliders went on great all the holes lined up :D took me about 2 hours to do the job, but i put some 5mm insulating foam along the top edge where it joined the sill and used loctite on all bolts. now need to paint the stainless bolt heads to blend in. they look really hot looks like they should have been there as a standard fitting. photos to follow when i have made and installed the mudflaps :cool:

[LandyAndy]

Do those sliders help protect the air tanks???? Guessing they do.
They do seem to be a bit prone to damage.
Andrew

[~Rich~]

Do those sliders help protect the air tanks???? Guessing they do.
They do seem to be a bit prone to damage.
Andrew

Not really Andrew, you still need to put on a GOE Compressor protection plate.
Green Oval Experience Land Rover training, Range Rover modifcation (http://www.greenovalexperience.com/#!price-list/c1bxt)
The Sliders protect your sills and doors to an extent but not under for the compressor.

[Tombie]

Rich - he's referring to the tank, not the compressor :)

[~Rich~]

Rich - he's referring to the tank, not the compressor :)

Whoops, my bad.
Ok the sliders do not protect the air tank either!
Generally you hit the chassis rail or sliders first, but not to say a pointy rock can't hit the tank in between the two. It is pretty solid, normally you get a scrape rather than a big dent.

[gghaggis]

In 9 years of er, vigorous :D off-roading in these cars, I've never damaged the air tank. Scraped it a couple of times.

Cheers,

Gordon

[Disco3QLD]

That's bloody fantastic work Eddomak :twobeers:

Yeah I know I should have done this myself but I'd never have done as good a job as this. :angel:

Thanks so much :BigThumb: !!

[Orangi]

Thanks to Edwin we have Rockslides

[Orangi]

8703187032

[eddomak]

Thanks to Edwin we have Rockslides

Don't believe him until he posts pictures. :P

[Edit: D'oh, he beat me to it!]

[tiddy]

As a matter of interest, do all the various makes of sliders for the D4 mount to the sills?

[gghaggis]

I'm not aware of any that don't anymore - there were a few US ones originally (for the D3) that mounted to the chassis as well, but don't think they produce them anymore.

Cheers,

Gordon

[dmdigital]

Can anyone give some answers regarding sliders:

Of the APT, GOE & Brad's is the GOE the only alloy ones?
Will any of these fit with front OEM mud flaps?
Are they all black powder coat finished? (No LandyAndy I don't want white ones ;))
Are the supplied mounting bolts rust proofed or stainless?
Which ones - if any - require trimming of guards etc? If so what and how much work is required?

[eddomak]

Can anyone give some answers regarding sliders:

Are the supplied mounting bolts rust proofed or stainless?





Brad supplies stainless bolts and stainless washers




Which ones - if any - require trimming of guards etc? If so what and how much work is required?



Brad's ones need a slight trimming of the guard. Pictures further up in the thread. Took around 5 minutes per guard yesterday with Orangi, using a Stanley blade (box cutter). Dremel can be useful.

[gghaggis]

The GOE ones:

* are alloy,
* do not detract from the ground clearance under the sills,
* allow fitment of the standard LR mud flaps (if you REALLY want to put them back on!)

Cheers,

Gordon

[StAn_D4]

Has anyone fitted the LR mudflaps with Brad's sliders ??

[Redback]

Has anyone fitted the LR mudflaps with Brad's sliders ??

If you're going to fit sliders, this means you're going off road, sooner or later the LR front mud flaps will go;)

Baz.

[Epic pooh]

My front LR ones are equal parts glue and plastic ... haha !

[Tombie]

If you're going to fit sliders, this means you're going off road, sooner or later the LR front mud flaps will go;)

Baz.


Baz, let *you* drive offroad and sooner or later *everything* is going to 'go'. :lol:

:D

(Just kidding mate!)

[aus86inch]

Hi guys am back on the site again, as promised a couple of months ago here are some piccies of my D4 with
Brads Sliders
home made mudflaps (that do not come off when reversing chassis deep in soft sand)
also my original toy on the trailer :twisted:

[LandyAndy]

Baz, let *you* drive offroad and sooner or later *everything* is going to 'go'. :lol:

:D

(Just kidding mate!)

I watched Gordon in his first Nite Owl comp in his D3,the bumpers were missing even before he started:D:D:D:D:D
Andrew