Quick question re checking oil pump bolt TD5

[PhilipA]

I have a sump gasket on order from UK and intend to check my oil pump bolt when it arrives.
Just a simple question. Do you have to lift the car by the chassis to drop the axle to get the sump off or can you just lift the axle on axle stands ? Is there enough clearance with standard springs with about 30-35CM to bump stops.
I cannot recall any info on this in any of the previous posts.
Regards Philip A

[Psimpson7]

You will need to jack the chassis up from the axle to get the sump out. on several occasions I have left the car on the floor, removed the track rod from the passenger side, then jacked the chassis up from the diff housing using the factory D2 bottle jack. You can then wiggle the sump out.

[Blknight.aus]

you dont need to completely remove the sump stock springs unloaded give you just enough room to get it done..

its a lot better to pull the top shock nuts, then jack the chassis up. be careful not to over extend the brake lines and use a rope for a check strap.

[Willis]

I have done this twice (don't ask!!)

You have to jack the chassis up so the axle drops down. I had enough room without removing top shock nuts but I can see that would help as well as Blknight.aus suggests.

have a look at this excellent write up

www.discovery2.co.uk / TD5 "Famous" Oil Pump Bolt (http://www.discovery2.co.uk/Oil_pump_bolt.html)

best

Willis

[PhilipA]

you dont need to completely remove the sump stock springs unloaded give you just
enough room to get it done..
Thanks Tombie.
I did the **** job today.
There is no way I could get the sump completely off with the exhaust and cat on and the suspension at full droop .
So I did it the cheater's way by dropping the sump down and doing the bolt with a bit of calethentics.
On my auto the oil cooler line was also in the way and there was no way to drop the sump without bending the solid pipe after all the clips were undone.All I needed was to have to refill the transmission.
It was a PITA getting the gasket in, but doable and I used plastic clamps to hold the guide pegs in the sump. It must have been OK at the back as I took it for a drive and no oil is ****ing out which it would if the gasket was out of place.
RAVE said to do up the bell housing bolts to 7Ft lb. These are about 10MM bolts. More like 70 Ft lbs methinks. The RAVE bolt tightening sequence was completely different to the one on Discovery 2 site, with RAVE starting from the back. So IMHO it is not very important which way they are done up.
One thing I noticed is that when the back of the sump dropped, there was a heap of oil between the back of the sump and the bellhousing which promptly glugged all over the ground. Maybe diesel from the FPR or maybe drool from the rear main seal.

BTW after all that work the bolt was tight and seemed to have loctite on it. BUT my paranoia is now less .
Regards Philip A

[OffTrack]

If you have a look at RAVE you'll see that Urban Panzer has posted up the diagram from step 10 which shows the sequence for removing the bolts, not the order for torquing them. :angel:

The torque figures for the 4 bolts at the rear edge of the sump - (11, 14, 15, 18) on the correct torquing order diagram need to tightened to 28Nm due to a revised sump gasket design introduced in 2003.

[PhilipA]

Mate on page 12-1-61 of the RAVE edition I have from Incisor, the tensioning sequence just shows across the back then down the sides to the front in turn, so that is what I did.
I just double checked .
Regards Philip A

[justinc]

I have to do these sometimes on a weekly basis, and you are correct they aren't much easier on a hoist, especially that juggle past the sump pickup/ lower coolant hose steel pipe/trans cooler lines/ bellhousing and CAT.

I remove the front crossmember too, and sump drops out pretty easily then.

Getting it back in though....:mad:

JC

[OffTrack]

Mate on page 12-1-61 of the RAVE edition I have from Incisor, the tensioning sequence just shows across the back then down the sides to the front in turn, so that is what I did.
I just double checked .
Regards Philip A

Philip,

I don't know which version Incisor is selling but it doesn't sound like it is even remotely up to date.

I sourced mine from the net and made certain I'd got a copy of the final CD release. The version of the Workshop manual on Topix is (9) and dated 2005, the version on the final CD release is (6) and dated 2002 - both show the same torque sequence. The Topix version shows the updated torque values given in the Tech Bulletin I mentioned.

This is what is on the Topix WSM, so represents the most up-to-date advice from LR:

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=65589&stc=1&d=1379226707

This is substantially different from even the final CD release of the workshop manual.

cheers
Paul

[OffTrack]

Just noticed that Urban Panzer actually has the correct sequence further down the page. My bad. The torque figures above are more up-to-date so I'd still use them instead of the older ones.

[PhilipA]

It's done now and I am not going there again willingly. I somehow do not think it is that important and the main downside would be a leak at worst and if they persisted with the original tightening sequence for some years then it must not have too much of a downside..

So far so good and no leaks from the sump or the Fuel pressure regulator.. The bottom of the car is DRY, well dry for a Land Rover.
Regards Philip A