View Full Version : Battery Recommendations
landychris
8th September 2013, 08:13 PM
I am after some advice. What is a good battery for cold cranking amps in a non turbo Isuzu. I have used Exide, Champion and Bond, and they only seem to last about 18months. If left idle for a month or so the Landy will not turn over and only tow start, even though the battery appears to be ok. Later I have put these batteries to use in a Defender and Series 2 and they have worked ok but not in the Isuzu. Ideas please.
landychris
BigBlueOne
8th September 2013, 08:39 PM
I've had good experiences with Optima batteries. Currently I have a red top for cranking and a yellow top as my aux. I have also heard odyssey batteries are good however both have high price tags
350RRC
8th September 2013, 08:39 PM
I marvel at the white one in my POS.
Has to be around 10 years old, been totally flattened plenty of times, can be left sitting for at least a month and will still start the 350 like normal.
I think its a Yuasa, will check tomorrow. Has no stickers left on it.
This is the main cranking battery, I have an Exide as a dual, charging through a Redarc isolator.
cheers, DL
AdsLandies
8th September 2013, 09:21 PM
When I bought my Isuzu Landy it had a Besco in it - just the standard 4wd size N70Z or something like that. It lasted a further 10 or 11 years, and still worked, just turned a bit more slowly than I liked in winter. When I replaced it I went to the battery shop and told them I wanted another one exactly the same. He was surprised at how old the one I had was. Without checking I think the CCA was around 700ish.
Maybe you have some other issue to do with charging the battery. I've never had any trouble getting the Isuzu cranked.
Hope this helps,
Adam.
steveG
8th September 2013, 09:37 PM
I am after some advice. What is a good battery for cold cranking amps in a non turbo Isuzu. I have used Exide, Champion and Bond, and they only seem to last about 18months. If left idle for a month or so the Landy will not turn over and only tow start, even though the battery appears to be ok. Later I have put these batteries to use in a Defender and Series 2 and they have worked ok but not in the Isuzu. Ideas please.
landychris
IMO something is draining the battery while its not being used. A typical start battery that is repeatedly discharged like you describe wont last long at all.
Look at either finding the source of the battery drain and stopping it, or fit a battery disconnect of some sort if you're going to leave it for extended periods without using it.
I've got a similar discharge thing happening in mine, and I think its related to the electric brake controller I've got fitted. Mine would get too flat to start after about a week without use.
I've got a battery disconnect switch fitted now, so I just turn it off when not using it for a while, and switch back on when I use it again. No further problems with flat batteries.
Also be aware that the standard alternator takes ages to charge a flat battery, so if the battery is flat you probably need to drive it for about 6-8 hours to fully charge it again (or use a battery charger if you're not driving for that long).
Steve
Distortion
9th September 2013, 01:14 AM
I pretty much only fit cat batteries to things these days. converted a few others too them as well.
Designed for use in earthmoving equipment so they are in theory more suitable for use in a 4x4 but we've replaced batteries on the boat with them and I've never had any issue with those 2 or the 3 I have in cars.
Pretty cheap to boot
flagg
9th September 2013, 05:18 PM
I'm very happy with my Optima Yellow Tops that RRturboD sells (search in the veranda subforum, or PM him directly).
In Canberra it is either very hot or very cold.. and I'd had a terrible run with batteries only lasting one winter before they died. (esp as I don't drive them every day) but these yellow tops have been brilliant. Even after having my 110 apart for months over winter they are fully charged and ready to go whenever I need them.
They charge really fast too (if you have a decent alternator).
Reads90
9th September 2013, 05:30 PM
I will give the yellow top optima a thumbs up
Have one as the starter battery in my 90 for last 8 years and was in my winch challenge truck for two years before that. That also was not started for 2 months while on its way to Australia from the uk.
The 2nd battery in the 90 was a pretty expensive ARB sourced one which died after three years in the truck
landychris
9th September 2013, 07:36 PM
IMO something is draining the battery while its not being used. A typical start battery that is repeatedly discharged like you describe wont last long at all.
Look at either finding the source of the battery drain and stopping it, or fit a battery disconnect of some sort if you're going to leave it for extended periods without using it.
I've got a similar discharge thing happening in mine, and I think its related to the electric brake controller I've got fitted. Mine would get too flat to start after about a week without use.
I've got a battery disconnect switch fitted now, so I just turn it off when not using it for a while, and switch back on when I use it again. No further problems with flat batteries.
Also be aware that the standard alternator takes ages to charge a flat battery, so if the battery is flat you probably need to drive it for about 6-8 hours to fully charge it again (or use a battery charger if you're not driving for that long).
Steve
Thanks Steve. I also have an electric brake controller and an isolator. I always turn off and remove the isolator key when not in use. After jump starting it today I went on a 115k run. After an hour it started ok, will see what happens tomorrow.
Chris
Dazza67
9th September 2013, 08:21 PM
I pretty much only fit cat batteries to things these days. converted a few others too them as well.
Designed for use in earthmoving equipment so they are in theory more suitable for use in a 4x4 but we've replaced batteries on the boat with them and I've never had any issue with those 2 or the 3 I have in cars.
Pretty cheap to boot
Totally agree, several threads on the Cat batteries. Cannot recommend them enough, even have one in the wifes car.
steveG
9th September 2013, 09:26 PM
Thanks Steve. I also have an electric brake controller and an isolator. I always turn off and remove the isolator key when not in use. After jump starting it today I went on a 115k run. After an hour it started ok, will see what happens tomorrow.
Chris
Sounds like a dumb questions, but is the isolator isolating EVERYTHING. Any chance you've got the isolator on the main supply cable to the starter, but something like the brake controller is connected directly to the battery?
Slightly off topic, but if you're having slow starts check the earth leads from battery to chassis, and chassis to transmission. Adding an extra engine/trans to chassis lead, and cleaning up the contacts on the main earth cable (even replacing it with a heavier one) can make the difference between only just turning over and starting easily. A really easy way to find out if you've got any earth issues is to connect a decent (ie not Supercrap $20 special) jumper lead directly from the battery negative to the engine or transmission. If it makes ANY improvement to how easily then engine starts then you've got earth issue/s.
Steve
UncleHo
10th September 2013, 09:58 AM
If you have a clock in your vehicle that will drain a battery rather quickly,mine did in the Rangie also anything that is connected to the same circuit,also bad earths on your lighting circuit will not help things.
landychris
10th September 2013, 11:24 AM
Sounds like a dumb questions, but is the isolator isolating EVERYTHING. Any chance you've got the isolator on the main supply cable to the starter, but something like the brake controller is connected directly to the battery?
Steve
I have two isolator switches. The main one is to the battery under the drivers seat and connects all vehicle operating electrics and winch. The second is connected to another battery for fridge, internal and external camping lights as well as CB and radio. There is no double battery switch re charging as both batteries are charged by their own lead from the alternator, ie there are two red leads coming from the alternator in the standard position that feed each battery.
Chris
steveG
10th September 2013, 12:24 PM
I have two isolator switches. The main one is to the battery under the drivers seat and connects all vehicle operating electrics and winch. The second is connected to another battery for fridge, internal and external camping lights as well as CB and radio. There is no double battery switch re charging as both batteries are charged by their own lead from the alternator, ie there are two red leads coming from the alternator in the standard position that feed each battery.
Chris
I haven't seen it done like that before.
If I've understood correctly you'd have to have both switches isolated, or you'd have power from one battery to the isolated stuff via the alternator.
If each isolation switch actually works properly by itself it implies that the charge wires go directly to the batteries - in which case even with the isolator switches off the batteries are still connected together via the charge wires. Means a dead/dying accessory battery would drag your start battery down even with both isolators off.
Does that make sense or have I caught the wrong train :angel:
Steve
landychris
10th September 2013, 04:53 PM
I haven't seen it done like that before.
If I've understood correctly you'd have to have both switches isolated, or you'd have power from one battery to the isolated stuff via the alternator.
If each isolation switch actually works properly by itself it implies that the charge wires go directly to the batteries - in which case even with the isolator switches off the batteries are still connected together via the charge wires. Means a dead/dying accessory battery would drag your start battery down even with both isolators off.
Does that make sense or have I caught the wrong train :angel:
Steve
Right train, hmmmmm interesting theory, I think you have something there Steve, thanks.:TakeABow:
Chris
350RRC
10th March 2014, 07:06 PM
I marvel at the white one in my POS.
Has to be around 10 years old, been totally flattened plenty of times, can be left sitting for at least a month and will still start the 350 like normal.
I think its a Yuasa, will check tomorrow. Has no stickers left on it.
This is the main cranking battery, I have an Exide as a dual, charging through a Redarc isolator.
cheers, DL
Actually had a good look at this battery today,,,,,,,,,,.. it is in fact a Willow 'maintenance free calcium' battery from the (I assume) Willow factory in Shepparton in Vic.
Does have normal plugs to check water in the top, but has never needed much water.
I'd buy another tomorrow, but I don't need one!
cheers, DL
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